RES7648KQ0 Roper Dryer - Instructions

remove 2 screws from lint vent, use putty knife to remove top op dryer, remove 2 screws holding switch.

Followed the easy instructions from your You Tube video

After I received the new belt I un-plugged the electric cord and shut off the gas supply. I pulled the dryer about 10 inches away from the wall to remove the vent duct from the back of the dryer. Used the putty knife to release the clips on bottom front panel and a screw driver to pop the front of the top at the left side and right side, removed the two Phillips head screws under the lint door, then lifted the top to the vertical position. Loosened the hex head screws at the bottom of the upper front panel (don't take them out). At the top back side of the front panel, pull off the electrical wires from the door interlock switch and pull the retainer holding the wires to the front panel (don't take the plastic clip from the wires.) Place some wood blocks to support the drum at the front of the drum. Use the nut driver to remove the two screws on the inside at the top of the front panel. Disconnect the two springs that hold the door closed. Lift the panel from the two loosened nuts at the bottom and pull it away from the drum and let the drum settle on the blocks of wood to support it. Place the new belt around the drum lining it up where the old belt left its mark around the drum with the grooved surface facing the drum. Replace the front upper panel with the door to engage to two tabs on the screws you left at the bottom. Lift the drum so that it engages with the opening in the front panel. In case where the drum had dropped too far, use the putty knife to engage the felt flange at the rear of the drum with the rear cabinet flange. Reinstall the two screws at the top that you had removed. Reconnect the two wires at the interlock switch and snap the clip with the wires to the flange of the upper front panel. Replace the door springs on the hinge extensions to the flange at the bottom of the cabinet. Set the Idler pulley assembly into the cabinet floor sliding the end tab into the slot and the two tabs fit into the holes in the floor. Pull a loop of the belt under the idler pulley and then pull it toward the motor pulley. You might use the shaft of your Phillips screw driver instead of you fingers to get it around the pulley on the motor shaft. Turn the drum by had for several complete turns to ensure that the belt lines up on the drum and that the drum isn't binding on the back or front seals. Close the top, snapping onto the top of the cabinet. Plug the dryer into the electric outlet and set the timer to Fluff Air range and push the start button with the door closed. The drum should be turning smoothly. Open the door and all should stop. Reconnect the Vent and move the dryer back to its former position. Turn gas supply on but do not start the dryer. Check for gas leaks. If you find a leak in either at connectors or the flexible connecter call a qualified contractor to replace the flex connecter. Otherwise you can then set for one of the dryer settings and push the start button and observe the burner through the lower panel to see that the igniter is lighting up and finally the gas turns on and a decent blue flam is burning in the combustion tube. Open the dryer door and the flame should cut off and the drum stop turning. You are ready to set the bottom panel. Set the panel on the two lower tabs and close it upward until the snaps lock it in position. Job Done

I replaced the Thermal fuse and this fixed the problem.

My husband unscrewed the plate in the back of the dryer, removed the heating element and placed the new element in! Dryer works like new!

1) Watch YouTube video on this site showing the steps to replace the heating element. 2) Assembled the proper sized screw driver, pliers and nut driver. 3) Unplugged the dryer and pulled it away from the wall. 4) Disconnected the vent hose by using the screw driver to loosen the clamp securing it to the dryer. 5) Removed the back panel by removing the hex head nuts / screws. 6) Unplugged the thermostat and wire to heating element terminal using the pliers. 7) Removed the panel concealing the heating element and removed the heating element. 8) Replaced the bad element with the new one purchased from PartSelect and replaced the heat shield panel. 9) Re-attached the thermostat and reconnected the power terminal. 10) Replaced the back panel with the hex head nuts / screws. 11) Reconnected the vent hose and tightened the clamp with the crew driver. 12) Repositioned the dryer back to it's original location, careful not to pinch the vent hose and plugged the unit back in. 13) Ran the unit with some old towels to test. 14) Unit was fixed and works like new.

Ordered your fuse & thermostat. Total $37.29, installed parts & still no heat. Ordered your 240v Heating element.. Total $77.43, installed part & still no heat, Removed 30amp circuit breaker and purchased replacement for $11.30 in town. Installed breaker, dryer now has heat. Still smiling as I keep telling my self I performed preventive maintenance on my dryer!!!

After doing research on the problem I narrowed it down to a resistor issue. The timer will not advance on auto dry but will advance when on timed dry but will not completely cut off. I ordered the resistor. I also located the faulty resistor next to the start button. It was easy! I just unplugged the two clips from the bad resistor and connected them to the new resistor and problem solved!

I followed the video directions exactly as instructed and I had no problem doing the repair myself. And if I can do it being a woman with no help you can do it. Easy peasy~

unpluged dryer from wall,lifted top of dryer unpluged door switch took out two screws that hold switch, installeed new switch, put top of dryer down, plugged dryer back into wall, very easy repair.

remove top &replace switch

1.Installed thermal fuse. I thought this was the problem as a few years ago this fixed the dryer that was now experiencing a similar problem. Problem persisted. 2. Installed new thermostat. Problem persisted. 3. Installed new igniter coils. Eureka! Problem solved!

Pulled out worn Lint Filter and replaced it with the new one. Simple fits fine and does its job.

I simply pulled the dryer away from wall. Cleaned vents. Pulled plug out from outlet. Unscrewed the back panel and removed the cycling thermostat and fuse as per your instructions. Since I had the back panel removed I cleaned the inside of lint as well. Put the back panel back started the dryer and everything was perfect. Saved myself at least 150.00.

I ordered the part I suspected....which was indicated by approximately 44% of the users having success replacing the thermal fuse. After watching the video on how to perform the repair, it was a snap! Removed the 9 screws, removed the vent hose, popped out the fuse, and replaced it. After checking to see if that was the problem....which it was, I reassembled the dryer. It only took more time because I chose to vacuum any exposed areas. THANK YOU!