RED4100SQ0 Roper Dryer - Instructions

After I watched the video I read other people's repairs and used both to get the belt changed.The dryer is old, I believe it is from the 70's. We took the front off and then laid the dryer on its back for easier access, looped the belt as described on the video, turned the drum counter clock-wise and then reattached the front. It was very simple thanks to the video and other people's suggestions. Dryer works great and very happy it turned out to be an easy fix.

I replaced the element using the video as a guide. Very easy install; however, it did not fix the problem. Turned out to be one of the cycling thermostats. I used the video for that also. A little more difficult because you have to strip and reattach a few wires. A good wire stripper/crimper tool will make this job easy. I would suggest buying the element, both thermostats and the fuse at once. This increases your chances of fixing the issue the first time. For around $100 you will have a worry free dryer for years to come. Beats a new dryer.

I was able to make the repair by following the online video that parts select had posted. Within no time I had my dryer up and running. So easy even an 8 year old could have done it. I do recommend that you test every part with a multimeter to find out which part may be malfunctioning. Remember when testing with a mutimeter at its lowest setting in ohms,if a part you test has continuity the numbers on the meter will fluctuate. If a certain part does not have continuity the multimeter will remain at 0 or 1. What this basically means is that the part(heating element,thermostat,etc)is your problem because it has no continuity.

I did some research and found your website. I thought the thermostat was the problem and I ordered the thermal cut-off kit. I should have tested the existing thermostat first using a continuity tester but I didn't have that device. I installed the kit but still no heat. I kept on watching other videos about the no heat problem, then I was convinced the problem could be the source of the heat, the heating element. I ordered not only the heating element but the thermal fuse as well in case I need it, it is cheap anyway. When I opened the back panel and removed the old heating element, I found the coil burned out, broken and a cracked metal panel. I replaced it and now it's working like a brand new dryer. I didn't have to change the thermal fuse. I saved at least less than $500 from not buying a brand new dryer. Thanks to your helpful website. Impressive delivery, so quick.

The dryer opens up pretty easily; there are two screws holding the lint filter housing to the top panel that must be removed before the top will come up. The top panel pops open by prying it up with a screw driver. Once it's off there are two screws inside near the top that hold the upper front panel to the sides. There are also two screws that need to be loosened, but not removed, at the very bottom of the upper front panel, accessed by removing the lower front panel which is also popped out by prying (the upper part of the lower panel is pulled straight out, and is held to the bottom of the unit by hinge-like clips). Once the upper front panel is wriggled back the drum will slump off but stay pretty much in place while you set the panel aside (it has an electrical lead that goes to the door-closed sensor, but if you pop its clips loose in a couple spots you'll have enough slack to set it to the side). The drum pulls off easily. You might want to take a photo of the belt/pulley arrangement underneath it before removing everything, as it is not intuitively obvious how the belt runs thru the pulleys. Once the drum is gone vacuum up all that accumulated lint, then pop off the metal clips that hold the motor on. I was surprised at how little holds that motor on; apparently it's enough. Here is where I ran into my one snag: I couldn't unscrew the blower wheel from the motor shaft, and you have to get that fan off to get the motor out. You're supposed to clamp a wrench on the plastic fan just inside the dryer housing, and unscrew it by turning the shaft from the other side. No go. I eventually drilled a sequence of holes into the plastic around the metal shaft (easy) and could pull the motor out, but of course now I needed a $20 fan replacement. The motor and fan showed up in 2-3 days. Unfortunately, the motor came with a pulley that needed a narrower drive belt than my original. I guess I could have cut the original down, but i just went ahead and ordered a new one ($12). Everything went back together surprisingly easily. Getting the new fan on was much easier than getting that old one off.

Unplugged Dryer. Removed back panel of the dryer. Disconnected and removed the Thermal Cut Off switch and replaced. Disconnected and removed the High Limit Thermostat and replaced. Reinstalled rear panel of the dryer. Plugged in dryer. Operated dryer and checked for heat. Operation was proper and dryer works great.

take two phillips srews out of lint catch frame. next take a screw driver pry up front top part on dryer.lean back top out of way.take two screws out of top of dryer door. disconnect electrical connection dryer door frame.and pull frame upward and off. you will see roller bracket with end made to put in slott. put it in first slott under belt motor.take belt and pull it through under roller and hook it with screwdriver to motor pulley.by putting the tip of screwdriver on motor pulley with belt on screwdriver and lift up until belt slides on to pulley. make sure you put belt around barrel. before putting belt through roller bracket and on to motor pulley.and use something to put under barrel so it will not get in the way and fall off.

Watched the repair of a similar repair on a video and took off the heating tube which was found to be defective because it burned out the heating coils. Replaced the heating tube and it's working fine.

i popped the top off. removed the 2 hex screws in the front upper inner corners. lifted the front panel up about an inch n removed it. pulled the drum out. removed the old broken belt. put the tention roller back into the slots at the bottom panel n base of the motor. mounted the new belt around the motor n thru the tentioner as i placed the drum in position n mounted the belt around the drum. holding the drum in place i replaced the front panel. replaced the hex screws n closed the lid. wah-lah. dryer fixed... thank you parts select

Looked at the partselect video on you tube, piece of cake.

My dryer was made so the fan was not removable and I had to reach through a narrow opening in behind the fan housing to put the belt on the motor pulley. The problem I encountered was that I could only use one hand to push against the idler pulley spring while at the same time try to catch the belt and slip it under the idler pulley. It repeatedly slipped off and every time it did the spring and idler pulley would come loose, and I would have to realign the the idler pulley shaft and attach the spring. After the fifth time I left the spring off, pushed the idler pulley shaft all the way in and put scratch a mark on the shaft on the inside of the first hole it enters. Next I drilled 1/16" hole in the shaft where I marked it, installed the spring and idler pulley then slipped a small cotter pin in the hole I drilled. Now if it slips off I only need to reach back and push the idler pulley up and catch the belt.

I tried all standard tricks: checking circuitry, switches, etc. Then I read other submissions on your site, which suggested this thermal fuse was the culprit on almost 50% of cases. I got yours in 2 days, installed in no time, easy as pie. One caution: it will take an entire day if you forget to close the dryer door completely.

Disassembled front & top of dryer, removed drum & replaced belt, idler pulley & one support wheel (which was the problem). Reassembled drum, top, & front of dryer. Tested good, much quieter.

I followed instructions from video -- although the model used in the video was different, the approach was similar. Really the only difficulty was laying on my back (72 years old) and, with one hand and through feel alone (work area was not visible), getting the belt on the drive sprocket and the spring loaded wheel.

Followed instructions supplied ( very easy)