RCS10D - Instructions

I looked up the #1 reason for no heat for my microwave on the site , and using my model number found that 92% of the time it was the Black Sleeve Diode. Ordered the $15 part, and installed it within 30 minutes. Most of the time was used for removing the built in microwave and removing the cover. Replaced the diode by finding it on the diagram that I printed from this site (free). Very relieved that we don't need to have our custom cabinetry re-sized to accommodate a new microwave. Thank you!

First I removed upper front grill by removing two Philips head screws on top and pulling off. This exposed the Philips head screw which holds control panel in place. After removing screw I pushed up on panel and it came off to expose fuse. With needle nose pliers I removed old fuse and again with pliers held new fuse in position. With the help of a bladed screwdriver, I pushed new fuse into holder, then replaced panel, screw and grill. This took less than 15 minutes even as one of the wires on control panel pulled out of connection and took some time to locate where to reconnect, otherwise was an easy fix
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Jenn-Air Microwave would not turn on. Clock worked , light worked, timer worked and would count down .I changed' Part #0813140 Switch, Micr} cost $8.99 plus shippingNow it works Thank You for good advise

Removed 4 small star head screws from back of microwave, lifted body off, removed blown fuse and replaced with new one (found where cord enters). This model is stainless inside and out and I like it a lot. It is also sold by Daewoo and a few other manufacturers.

Replaced diode works great. your website said 92% diode was problem and it worked. Order fuse in case old was blown did not have to use it.

Over the stove microwave installed in top cabinet row.
1. Unplug device.
2. Two people to remove from wall/cabinet (remove two, large, top mounting screws and rotate entire microwave down and off the wall mount). Should be some wood spacers between top of device and bottom of cabinet.
3. Remove screws from sheet metal cover.
4. Remove one screw holding blowers in place and rotate out of the way, in order to gain access to 2 of 5 screws that hold the magnetron in place.
5. Unplug magnetron and remove the 5 screws.
6. Drop in new magnetron and re-assemble microwave in reverse order (steps 5-3).
7. Two people restore micro to wall/cabinet. Replace wood spacers, re-install two, large mounting screws (finger-tight). Test device. Secure the two large screws.

I mistakenly thought I had to remove the microwave to get to the back, not so. I would have had access to what I needed to unscrew; but I have to admit the hassle of taking it down and putting it back equals having to work on it attached to the shelf-your call on how you do this. I unscrewed the front top to remove the vent piece that is across the top front of the microwave. This will reveal the control panel screw. (While you have the vent removed you might want to clean the vent and the exposed filter.) carefully lift and pull out control panel. I unplugged a piece as the wires were tied tight. It will not completely detach, so carefully tip it back from exposed insides. The fuse is not clear but white with silver ends so look in upper right for it. I popped it out and replaced it. Replugged the wired part to cover and carefully fit tabs in and slide down to secre. Replace screw, replace vent piece and secure screws on top of microwave. I plugged it in to test before putting it back above my stove.

Removed case,
Discharged HV capacitor and removed cooling fan.
Unscrewed ground end of HV diode and unplugged from HV capacitor.
Installed new diode by reversing the order. In my case, the problem was the magnetron was bad, so I replaced it as well.

removed cover first ,then I disconnected the leads and removed the holding screws that held it in place. Then I installed the new part by reversing the prosedure.

remove microwave cover . remove screws holding blower motor assy. in place remove blower motor. transfer plastic fan from old motor to new. reinstall blower motor assy. into microwave oven. check and test run. also replace broken spash guard.

Remove old tray, clean old caulk, and clean inside of microwave, Place new tray-glass floor and caulk with heat resistant silicone. Easy project.

Unplug the microwave. Remove the Philips head and safety Torx head screws along the bottom of the sides and rear of the microwave which hold the black cover on. Lift the cover up at the rear and slide it backwards to disengage the tabs on the front top. Remove the cover. Discharge the capacitor by shorting the terminals to each other and then ground. Do this with a well insulated object and be aware there may be a pop when you do this. Keep hands, etc. on the insulated part of the object (screwdriver handle, etc). There's a lot of stored energy in that capacitor. I'd advise first checking the diode to make sure its not bad. Replace it if it is. The Magnatron is held in with a couple of screws on the top and sides. Unplug the connector and remove the screws. Remove the Magnatron. Installation is the reverse of removal.

I had to unmount the over-the-range microwave oven to be able to gain access to the interior of the oven. Complicating removal (and re-installation) was the fact that there is a "pot-filler" faucet installed directly underneath the oven. In retrospect, I should've removed the faucet before doing the repair, but "c'est la vie."

After I got the microwave down, removing the case was also "interesting." I get bonus points for the fact that the previous owner must've had to replace the same diode before - and then re-assembled the microwave case incorrectly - thereby adding to the confusion (BTW, the service manual that I found online said nothing about how to remove the oven's case).

To remove the case, undo all the screws holding it on, and then rotate the case upwards from the back while also pulling the case backwards. There are crimped folds on the inside of the case that mate with the back edges of the front of the oven's chassis, and these folds have to be unclipped from the chassis in order to remove the case.

Replacing the diode itself was the easiest part of the job. The two connectors on the diode are of different types, making it impossible to install the diode with the wrong polarity.

BTW, the diode that had failed was not an OEM diode; I suspect it was a generic component that had been installed by a repairman sometime between 2004-2008 (when our home's original owners still owned the home). On the other hand, the new diode from PartSelect is an OEM part (it came packaged in a sealed Whirlpool bag).

The fact that the oven had stopped heating indicated that it was either the high-voltage diode or the magnetron that had failed. Since a replacement diode costs ~ 1/10th as much as a replacement magnetron, I figured it made sense to replace the cheaper part first. Fortunately, this fixed the problem.

One last thing: I tried testing both the old and new diodes for conductivity and polarity using my volt-ohm meter (VOM), but I was unable to get either diode to "turn on," even though my VOM is powered by a 9-v battery, and I used the 2-Mohm range setting. I guess the test voltage of my el-cheapo VOM isn't high enough to exceed the diode's threshold voltage, (even though I have successfully used this same VOM to test low-voltage diodes).

very simple job. removed broken tray, inserted new tray and caulked around edges with a high heat resistant caulk.

Access is via RT. SIDE Panel as you face microwave. There are three screws on the bottom right edge to loosen. After that the side panel slips down and off. the fuse is located in the rear near where the power cord comes in. It is the white ceramic tube 1/4" in dia. and 1-1/2" long. Pull it out like any fuse and replace with new one. Reassemble and you are done!