RB757BB1 Hotpoint Range - Instructions

After unplugging the range I took the rear sheet metal panel at the top off with a nut driver to expose the wiring connections. The next step was to remove the single screw holding the old part in place. (under the drip pan) Once free I snipped the old part from the wires and then taped the new female ends to the old wires with black electrical tape. From rear I carfully pulled the old wires through the back until I could reach the new wiring connections. Unplugged old, plugged in new and replaced the rear metal cover. Then I put the screw that holds the new block bracket in place, replaced drip pan, and burner. The final step was to plug the range back in and check to see if the burner worked. It did and I was done. Approx. 5 minutes

1. Pull out range and unplug from socket.
2. Lift range lid.
3. Remove back panel. Loosen the 6 - 1/4" nuts, then lift up slightly, which compresses the "latch" at the top middle. Let down and panel comes off easily.
(Note: Do not remove wires yet)
4. Remove control knob from front panel by pulling gently, exposing 2 small tap screws
5. unscrew the 2 small tap screws, freeing the switch.
6. NOTE THE EXISTING WIRING! Each terminal has a letter. Take a photo or drawing for reference, because the new switch's post locations were not the same as the old.
7. In my case I had to replace the terminal block kit with a new one. (don't try the aftermarket one's at Home Depot...bad idea event though they say Hotpoint) so I ran those wires first. Easy removal of old, only one wire clip, then fish the wires through. Secure with tap screw at burner location.
8. Hook up the wires. The ones coming from the burner don't seem to matter which one goes to which post but make sure you're replacing them on the posts that the original were on. What I did was just unhook the old posts one at a time and find the corresponding letter on the new one.
9. Break off stem at length of old switch with pliers. make sure you find where off and on are on the switch. Orient the off at the top, then push through from back of range.
10. Screw the 2 tap screws in, securing the switch.
11. Place the orange retainer oriented with flat side the same as the knob, and push the knob back in place.
12. Close lid, replace back panel
13. Insert drip pan/burner into terminal block and secure in drip pan. If your burner plugs are corroded or exposed, replace the burner as it will short out.
14. Plug in to socket and test before pushing range back into place.

Turn the breaker off to the oven.Removed both wire racks,using a 1/4 nut driver unscrewed the old element.The flashlight was so I could see inside the oven.Having removed the two screws ,the old element came right out.With my needle nose pliers removed the wires one at a time,replacing them on the new element as they came off.Replaced the two screws holding the element ,replace my wire rack, turned the breaker back on.As for the price for the part ,it was less than a service call from a repairman,which would not have included the part.

Old gasket had become brittle. Was able to find the 22 yr old model and part on PartSelect (could not track it down on GE's site. Inner panel was removed with four screws. Old gasket came out. Installed new gasket making sure the bead fit into the groove provided in the door panel. Re-assembled. All is well. Thanks

First I made sure the power was off then I removed the back cover. I took the new switch in hand and took one wire at a time from the old switch and put them on the new switch. I removed the old switch and replaced it with the new one. Made test to be sure it worked. Replaced back cover, job finished.

Per the instructions included with part.

Upon removing the back panel of range with screwdriver to gain access to elelctric clock control. Unit was taken out with the use of a 1/4'' nutdriver. After following included instrucitons with replacement part. Part was an unpluged/pluged in operation. Works great. No service technician needed. Thanks gain.

First I turned off the circut breaker. Then removed the two wire racks. Then I removed the two 1/4" hex head screws holding the rear of the element in place. Pulled the element out far enough to remove the two wires. Discarded the old element. Installed the new element in the reverse order and turned the breaker back on. Took no more than 10 minutes. Ordering the part was easy. The diragrams with measurements of the part made it easy to insure that I was getting the right part. I'm sure I save myself at least a $65 plus service call. Not to mention a mark up on the part itself. I will use this website in the future if needed. Thanks

1. Removed the back panel.
2. Disconnected the wires from the old switch while connecting wires to the new switch one at a time.
3. Installed the new switch and broke off the excess metal on the post which fits into the burner knob on front of the range.
4. Replaced the burner knob and replaced the back panel.

The repair went quickly. First, I switched off the circuit breaker. Then, after lifting off the oven door to lighten the stove, I pulled it away from the wall for easy access to the part. I pulled off the oven control knob. WIth my socket wrench, I removed the 6 or so screws from the back cover of the stove. Now, I was able to see the clock timer and switch. Just a few phillips screws held it in place. I removed it, and struggled just a bit to remove the wires from their attachments to the old part. I wired the new part, one wire at a time, carefully comparing the function of the wires, not just the colors of the wires, using the clear and simple diagram that was included with the part. A sharp knife under the edge of the faceplate of the old part allowed me to pry it off and reuse it. Thus, I had my up and down arrows, the labels for clock and timer. It didn't shatter, as I feared. In fact, that faceplate was held on with only a small area of adhesive around the edge. I placed the faceplate from the old part over the front of the new part, alligned it in the opening and tightened it down with the screws I had removed. I replaced the oven knob. I switched on the breaker. The broiler worked, the timer worked. I felt powerful. I unexpectedly impressed my teenage children with my skills here, as I replaced the back cover of the stove, and set it back in it's place then replaced the oven door.
The replacement part was the same but with some differences in internal shape. This did not affect the fit. The wiring configuration was not the same. This added to my time as I had never done this before and needed to feel completely confident before proceding. The part came with a clear diagram of the wiring-- ground, line in, broiler, and oven. 4 attachments. The 3 ground wires are joined to one connector in my stove. A careful look was enough to assure me that though my colors were not the same, the basics were the same.
I feel this was a simple job. My stove and oven look and work like new.
And my husband thinks I'm amazing.

Removed oven from cabinet. unblug old sensor pluged in new and reinstalled oven. Esay repair though wish oven was designed so did not have to pull itout of cabinet which requires disconect electric cabel

I easily removed the element, then the socket I followed the wiring down beneath the drip pan to where it plugged into the control knob. I simply unplugged the old part and plugged in the new socket, rerouted the wires and assembled the stove top with a new burner in place.

I downloaded the installaion manual from the web for this model. First htings first, I located the circuit breaker for the oven and turned it off. Removed the lower trim piece from the bottom, next lifted the oven door off its hinges and set it to the side. I then wrapped a couple of small towels around the hinges for the door as per the manual (the hinges can pinch a finger). I then removed the four screws which secured the oven into the cabinet. Next I slid the oven forward allowing me access to the rear. I removed the pieces from the rear to gain access to the sensors connector, and unpl;ugged the sensor. Went around to the front and unscrewed the 2 screws securing the sensor and removed it. I then installed the new sensor, replaced the rear covers, slid the oven back into the cabinet, secured the four screws, snapped on the lower trim, remounted the oven door, and turned the breaker on. Oven working fine now.

Took off oven door and removed racks. Removed the cover on the back side (5 screws removed with nut driver) Pulled sensor out the front side of the oven. Threaded the new sensor through and put all back together.

I had to call for a appointment for repair with GE Appliance because I thought then it . .was something electrical. The technician came out & checked everything out, turned out it was not electrical, The technician went out to his truck got a light bulb from his truck, put it in & it worked. It cost me $121.00 for trip charge from GE appliance for a light bulb that worked, your light bulbs were defective twice. Very disappointed with your products, cost me alot of money for a good light bulb thru GE appliance