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RB632GW4
RB632GW4 Hotpoint Range - Overview
Sections of the RB632GW4
[Viewing 3 of 3]
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Surface Burner Terminal Block Kit
PartSelect #: PS242972
Manufacturer #: WB2X8228
Also known as receptacle.
$31.61
In Stock
Surface Element - 8 Inch - 2350W
PartSelect #: PS243868
Manufacturer #: WB30M2
The surface element, also known as the coil surface element, transfers heat to the area on top of range. The element is 8 inches in diameter. If your surface element does not heat, over heats, or heat...
$61.79
In Stock
Drip Bowl - 6 Inch
PartSelect #: PS244800
Manufacturer #: WB32X5075
This 6 inch chrome drip bowl is intended for use with solid terminal plug-in style surface burner units on electric ranges.
$9.15
In Stock
Surface Element - 6 Inch - 240V
PartSelect #: PS243867
Manufacturer #: WB30M1
If you notice that your surface element will not heat properly, you may need to replace it. This surface element is 6 inches in diameter and 240V. It is a Y-frame surface burner element with five turn...
$57.41
In Stock
Drip Bowl - 8 Inch
PartSelect #: PS244801
Manufacturer #: WB32X5076
This 8 inch chrome drip bowl is intended for use with solid terminal plug-in style surface burner units on electric ranges.
$12.66
In Stock
INFINITE HEAT SWITCH KIT
PartSelect #: PS16216966
Manufacturer #: WB21X36771
The infinite switch controls the stove top surface burner. This switch will work with most of the electrical range models with coil burner elements.
$51.36
In Stock
Bake Element
PartSelect #: PS249344
Manufacturer #: WB44X10009
This bake element has push-on wire terminals and the feet to keep it elevated from the bottom of the oven.
$83.23
In Stock
Light Bulb - 40W
PartSelect #: PS217532
Manufacturer #: 40A15
This 40-Watt light bulb is sold individually and is a genuine OEM replacement option for your home appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, so this bulb is compatible wi...
$11.02
In Stock
Foot - Leveller
PartSelect #: PS223802
Manufacturer #: WB02X10521
Sold individually.
$23.43
In Stock
RECEPTACLE PUSH-IN
PartSelect #: PS752188
Manufacturer #: WB08T10026
This part is the replacement light socket for your oven. The oven light socket provides power to the light, and at the same time holds the light bulb in place.
$8.54
In Stock
Broiler Pan - Large
PartSelect #: PS1517612
Manufacturer #: WB48X10056
This large broiler pan is found in the bottom of your oven and is used to catch drippings from broiling foods. This part includes the grate and bottom pan and is made of porcelain. The grate measures ...
$30.07
In Stock
Questions And Answers for RB632GW4
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Common Symptoms of the RB632GW4
[Viewing 5 of 5]Element will not heat
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Little to no heat when baking
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Little to no heat when broiling
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Oven not heating evenly
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Will Not Start
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
The Bake-o-lite (Hard Plastic) block that holds the burners female connection in place had chipped away over time and wouldn't allow the male part of the burner to connect up correctly.
After unplugging the range I took the rear sheet metal panel at the top off with a nut driver to expose the wiring connections. The next step was to remove the single screw holding the old part in place. (under the drip pan) Once free I snipped the old part from the wires and then taped the new female ends to the old wires with black elec
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trical tape. From rear I carfully pulled the old wires through the back until I could reach the new wiring connections. Unplugged old, plugged in new and replaced the rear metal cover. Then I put the screw that holds the new block bracket in place, replaced drip pan, and burner. The final step was to plug the range back in and check to see if the burner worked. It did and I was done. Approx. 5 minutes
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Parts Used:
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Robert from Mt. Vernon, IN
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver
112 of 114 people
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Front burner would not heat up
1. Pull out range and unplug from socket.
2. Lift range lid.
3. Remove back panel. Loosen the 6 - 1/4" nuts, then lift up slightly, which compresses the "latch" at the top middle. Let down and panel comes off easily.
(Note: Do not remove wires yet)
4. Remove control knob from front panel by pulling gently, exposing ... Read more 2 small tap screws
5. unscrew the 2 small tap screws, freeing the switch.
6. NOTE THE EXISTING WIRING! Each terminal has a letter. Take a photo or drawing for reference, because the new switch's post locations were not the same as the old.
7. In my case I had to replace the terminal block kit with a new one. (don't try the aftermarket one's at Home Depot...bad idea event though they say Hotpoint) so I ran those wires first. Easy removal of old, only one wire clip, then fish the wires through. Secure with tap screw at burner location.
8. Hook up the wires. The ones coming from the burner don't seem to matter which one goes to which post but make sure you're replacing them on the posts that the original were on. What I did was just unhook the old posts one at a time and find the corresponding letter on the new one.
9. Break off stem at length of old switch with pliers. make sure you find where off and on are on the switch. Orient the off at the top, then push through from back of range.
10. Screw the 2 tap screws in, securing the switch.
11. Place the orange retainer oriented with flat side the same as the knob, and push the knob back in place.
12. Close lid, replace back panel
13. Insert drip pan/burner into terminal block and secure in drip pan. If your burner plugs are corroded or exposed, replace the burner as it will short out.
14. Plug in to socket and test before pushing range back into place.
2. Lift range lid.
3. Remove back panel. Loosen the 6 - 1/4" nuts, then lift up slightly, which compresses the "latch" at the top middle. Let down and panel comes off easily.
(Note: Do not remove wires yet)
4. Remove control knob from front panel by pulling gently, exposing ... Read more 2 small tap screws
5. unscrew the 2 small tap screws, freeing the switch.
6. NOTE THE EXISTING WIRING! Each terminal has a letter. Take a photo or drawing for reference, because the new switch's post locations were not the same as the old.
7. In my case I had to replace the terminal block kit with a new one. (don't try the aftermarket one's at Home Depot...bad idea event though they say Hotpoint) so I ran those wires first. Easy removal of old, only one wire clip, then fish the wires through. Secure with tap screw at burner location.
8. Hook up the wires. The ones coming from the burner don't seem to matter which one goes to which post but make sure you're replacing them on the posts that the original were on. What I did was just unhook the old posts one at a time and find the corresponding letter on the new one.
9. Break off stem at length of old switch with pliers. make sure you find where off and on are on the switch. Orient the off at the top, then push through from back of range.
10. Screw the 2 tap screws in, securing the switch.
11. Place the orange retainer oriented with flat side the same as the knob, and push the knob back in place.
12. Close lid, replace back panel
13. Insert drip pan/burner into terminal block and secure in drip pan. If your burner plugs are corroded or exposed, replace the burner as it will short out.
14. Plug in to socket and test before pushing range back into place.
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Parts Used:
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Scott from Olathe, KS
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
78 of 111 people
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Bottom heat element
Turn the breaker off to the oven.Removed both wire racks,using a 1/4 nut driver unscrewed the old element.The flashlight was so I could see inside the oven.Having removed the two screws ,the old element came right out.With my needle nose pliers removed the wires one at a time,replacing them on the new element as they came off.Replaced the
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two screws holding the element ,replace my wire rack, turned the breaker back on.As for the price for the part ,it was less than a service call from a repairman,which would not have included the part.
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Parts Used:
-
Alton from Marshall, TX
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers
50 of 53 people
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