RB525H3WH Hotpoint Range - Instructions

The original GE blocks/wires were color coded to specific burners. The new ones are not color coded since they are sold individually and work with any burner, but they were identical to the originals in every other way. Just remove old blocks one at a time and connect the replacement so that the burner is connected to the proper control. Since the stove age was unknown, I replaced all four blocks to eliminate a repeat of the problem later. The screws holding the blocks and the wiring cover on the stove back require the same small socket wrench; not enough room in some places for an adjustable wrench. It took no more than 20 minutes to replace all four, test the burners, and close up the back wiring panel. The instructional video on the website eliminated my hesitation to tackle this repair. The parts arrived the next day, with no special shipping service requested. WOW. PartSelect will be the first place I go to find what I need for the next fix-it. I'm almost looking forward to something else breaking. LOL. Thanks, PS.

I took a picture of the setup and damage . I then disconnected the burnt wires and replaced the wires . Then I installed the new terminal block and connected the wires to the proper positions. The reason for the failure was that the delivery people didn't tighten the cord when they installed the stove . I would check the connections periodically as to avoid another situation like this .

Remover the old gasket and replaced it with the new. The small prongs I removed with pliers. Need to make sure that the new gasket isn't twisted when you put it on.

There was an excellent video demonstrating a very good method for replacing the terminal block at Parts Select.. I ran into a problem with the kit. The wires were too short. Instead of replacing the entire wire I needed to clip off part of the old wiring and solder the kit wires to them. I also needed to insulate the connections with electrical tape to prevent them from shorting out.

First and foremost this website was very easy to locate the part number that we needed. Unplugged range from the wall. Removed the upper metal plate off of the back. Removed the ovens' control knob in the front, then removed the 2 screws that released the thermostat. Opened oven door and released the metal thermostat probe. Cut the other end of that wire at the thermostat switch in the rear of the range. Taped that wire to the new metal probe. pulled the old probe out the front of the oven pulling the new probe in place. Switched 1 wire at a time from the old thermostat to the new one in the back of the range. Works great. No more burnt muffins !

Found PartsSelect on the internet. Saw the video for replacing the Surface Burner Terminal Blocks with their kit. Turned a $400 oven replacement into a $25 quick repair, thanks to PartsSelect.

I can add nothing to the video you furnished on your website. I am generally all thumbs with home repairs - especially anything electrical - but, your video led me right through it. A good experience. We'll do business again.Thanks.

Remove lower drawer and contents. Unplug unit. Tilt range on its back for easy access. Tie open oven door to forward legs with sturdy rope. Use small socket to remove 2 back screws and 2 forward element hanger screws. Detach broiler element connections from wire clips(2). Insert new element, attach 2 new connections to clips first. Install back socket screws. Install front socket screws for element hanger. Slide in oven shelves. Release oven door rope. Lift range to normal position. Replace lower drawer. Plug 220 in. Test oven element then broiler.

just slipped it in

Just pulled old coil out of the plug. Replaced drip bowl and inserted new coil in. No problem.

Wife repaired it because she got tired of waiting for me:) Hardest part was pulling stove out of cupboard space to get to back of stove. Easy to repair.

Disconnected the electric burner from the terminal block, unscrewed the terminal block, removed the two back covers from the range, cut the two wires (since the wires that came with the replacement part were not long enough to reach the switch), spliced the new part to the existing wiring using wire nuts, installed the new terminal block and connected the electric burner to it. With the new terminal block in place, the burner does not lie completely flat like the old one did, but it is functional.

followed the instruction from your video an it was a snap

Just had to change out the drip bowls, easy. But, I wanted to comment on the quick delivery on the new bowls. I was impressed. Thank you.

Took the old pans out and put the new ones in. Simple as pie