RB525H2WH Hotpoint Range - Instructions

Remover the old gasket and replaced it with the new. The small prongs I removed with pliers. Need to make sure that the new gasket isn't twisted when you put it on.

There was an excellent video demonstrating a very good method for replacing the terminal block at Parts Select.. I ran into a problem with the kit. The wires were too short. Instead of replacing the entire wire I needed to clip off part of the old wiring and solder the kit wires to them. I also needed to insulate the connections with electrical tape to prevent them from shorting out.

Found PartsSelect on the internet. Saw the video for replacing the Surface Burner Terminal Blocks with their kit. Turned a $400 oven replacement into a $25 quick repair, thanks to PartsSelect.

I can add nothing to the video you furnished on your website. I am generally all thumbs with home repairs - especially anything electrical - but, your video led me right through it. A good experience. We'll do business again.Thanks.

Remove lower drawer and contents. Unplug unit. Tilt range on its back for easy access. Tie open oven door to forward legs with sturdy rope. Use small socket to remove 2 back screws and 2 forward element hanger screws. Detach broiler element connections from wire clips(2). Insert new element, attach 2 new connections to clips first. Install back socket screws. Install front socket screws for element hanger. Slide in oven shelves. Release oven door rope. Lift range to normal position. Replace lower drawer. Plug 220 in. Test oven element then broiler.

just slipped it in

Just pulled old coil out of the plug. Replaced drip bowl and inserted new coil in. No problem.

Wife repaired it because she got tired of waiting for me:) Hardest part was pulling stove out of cupboard space to get to back of stove. Easy to repair.

Disconnected the electric burner from the terminal block, unscrewed the terminal block, removed the two back covers from the range, cut the two wires (since the wires that came with the replacement part were not long enough to reach the switch), spliced the new part to the existing wiring using wire nuts, installed the new terminal block and connected the electric burner to it. With the new terminal block in place, the burner does not lie completely flat like the old one did, but it is functional.

followed the instruction from your video an it was a snap

Just had to change out the drip bowls, easy. But, I wanted to comment on the quick delivery on the new bowls. I was impressed. Thank you.

Took the old pans out and put the new ones in. Simple as pie

replace element

Difficulty was in determining the right model number and part number of a switch. Noted that the left front burner came on when the switch for the left back burner was turned on. By inspection I found the left front burner switch had become faulty by actually hearing an electric arc in the switch and smelling the oder in the switch. With help from the person I called I was able to determine that the Model Number on the actual stove was wrong. It had an extra 0 between the W and F which she said was a common error in the GE model number. I then gave the switch number I found on the switch to the contact person and she was able to verify the right part number. It was relatively easy to replace the switch by taking off the back upper plate then taking off two screws that held the switch to the stove. The part came quite quickly once ordered. Sears repair wanted $75 just to diagnose then the cost of the part. I got the switch for $69.

nothing to it.