RB525*J1 Hotpoint Range - Instructions

Turned off the power. Removed the screws holding the built-in oven to the wall. Slid out the oven. removed the four screws that were holding the inner oven walls to the outer oven walls. Slid the inner oven wall out 1/4", removed old gasket material and replaced with new gasket. Slid the inner oven in tight and replaced the screws.

I have a 22 year old GE double oven with a range top that I can't live without. I do alot of cooking, baking, and my share of entertaining. To replace this oven I would have to sacrifice having 2 ovens...or remodel my kitchen and reposition their location. So when something goes wrong with this oven I cringe. It needs to keep ticking for another 10 years. A friend recommended PartSelect. looked on line and found the part resembling mine. I called just to confirm the part was correct, and found out it was not. I looked up the part number the said was correct but the shape was wrong. I order it anyhow and when it arrived it was what I needed. The picture on the website was inconsistant with the part number. So I'm really glad I called and spoke to a rep. The part arrived in 4 days and the next day I installed it, needing only one tool. Doing it myself saved me a few hundred dollars and my oven works great again. And their price was lower than a local parts dealer. I added PartSelect to my favorite list for future needs! Thanks!

Received the Drip bowls and Rings very quickly. Opened the box and then cut open the plastic wrap that the individual rings and drip bowls were in. Lifted the burner on the stove top, took out the old ring and drip bowl. Installed the shiny new drip bowl and ring, then lowered the stove top element back into place. I was able to replace all 4 of them within 5 minutes. Made the 30 year old stove look brand new.Thank you for perfect fit parts and fast delivery.

unscrew hinge support screw w/nutdriver, remove ceramic insulator held on with clips around wires and base of burner, remove screws holding wires to element w/nutdriver, replaced screws on new element w/nutdriver, replaced ceramic insulator held together w/ clips, reattach hinge, replace burner lower overflow bowl and trim ring, fire it up. used pliers to hold the wires and burner element together when tightening screw so as to not bend element.

First turned off the circuit breaker. The two screws holding the element in place were removed. Next the element was pulled out about 3 inches. Wires were disconnected. Old element was removed. Wires were then attached to the new replacement element. The element was then re-attached to back of oven, using the two screws. Circuit breaker turned to on. About 5 minutes. Took longer to change the flashlight batteries!

First I removed the two screws in the back. then I removed the two screws attached to the brace at the top. pulled the old element out. Removed the screws that attatced the wires to the element. Attached the wires to the new element. Pushed the wires back in. Pushed the element in and attached the screws. Reattached the support. Turned on the broiler. The element smoked for a few seconds before getting red hot. It is working fine.

Moved stove from wall, unplug the stove from the wall outlet, remove the oven racks, unscrew the plate against the oven wall supporting the element with a small adjustable wrench, pull out the element slowly without tearing the insulation & stretching the two wires, unscrew with a phillips screwdriver each wire with care, as a precautionary measurement: do not make contact with the other wire and any other part of the stove, even though it was still unpluged. Install the new element in reverse procedure...turn on Bake Element on low temperature..when it glows when hot..ready to go.

So this ancient stove we inherited when we bought our house had the drip bowls wrapped in tin foil. We've searched EVERY (not joking) store in our area for drip bowls that would fit it, but apparently Hotpoint wanted to make sure you could never do this - well, at least not easily. No one, not one store carries drip bowls to fit it. I finally searched online and partselect.com came up first on the list. I was amazed they had the right part! Better yet, ordering was beyond easy, and they came super quick. Popped in the parts in less than 2 minutes, and we're good to go - makes this old stove look new! (well, if this was the 80's, lol) When I clicked on the part it said which stoves it would fit, which was also very helpful. Thank goodness for Part Select! Otherwise we would've had to rewrap those disgusting old bowls... I'd recommend this site in a heartbeat!

Pull the stove out from the wall and unplug. Had to remove back of stove, the aluminum sheilding and the duct work to get at wires use nut driver. Then used nut driver to remove nuts from broiler unit inside stove. Take the front overn dover off first. The new part did not match up with the wires so I used a needle nose to spread the wire clips just a tad so they would fit over the tabs of the broiler unit. Do all of this behind the stove as you do not have eough wire to do this effectively from the oven side. After I had the tabs fitted to the broiler unit. I removed them and fed wires back through the stove. I then went back to the front of the stove and put the broiler back in and put support bar back in to ceiling of stove and the two nuts back on to affix broiler to back of oven. Put the aluminum baccking and duct work back onto the back of the stove and plugged it back in. Pretty easy job.

Turned off power at panellboard. Disconnected mounting hardware from inside oven chamber. Pulled failed heating element with wires attached into the oven chamber. Disconnected wiring and reconnected them to the new heating element. Tightened screws while holding connectors with pliers. Applied electrical tape to connections. Pushed wires back into opening and secured heating element back into place. Restored power nad verifed proper operation. The other heater purchased will be used when the bake element finally fails,

(1) Turned off power source.
(2) Removed rust on screw heads before attempting to loosening them up.
(3) Pulled the element out to expose the connections.
(4) Disconnected with phillips screw driver, taped off wires to prevent mixed-up during re-installation.
(5) Re-installed new element using new screws provided.

this repair is simple. Just unscrew the existing connection and attach the new heating element. You may have to break the existing ceramic element, but a new one comes with the new heat element.

I'm a pharmacist and no handyman but this was extremely simple. Don't let a burned out element lead to a $1,000 purchase of a new oven. I removed 2 screws in the plate using a nut driver inside the oven where bake element exits the oven (keep sheet metal screws). Removed duct work from rear of oven to expose insulation where wires are attached to element using standard screw driver. Cleaned inside of unkown chemicals spewed out during fire. Inserted new bake element, screwed wires onto element from back (2 hot wires go on one side since it's 220). I tried to use the screws that came with the element but they didn't work so I was able to use the old sheet metal screws to secure the element to the inside of the oven. Replaced duct work on back. Done.

Disconnect power. . . Remove control panel, pull wire connectors,[note location] remove old switch, install new, install wires, snip stem to length, set knob . . . Turn on power - works. [Note this is a live part even when not connected]

shut off electricity to the range, removed the screws holding the element in place, pulled the element out as far as it would go, removed the screws holding the wires in place, tossed the old element, attached the wires to the new element, pushed the element back into place and reattached the screws holding the element in place. Turned the electricity back on and the oven heated right up.

Also, the part arrived the day after I ordered it. Great Price & Great Service.