RB524*R2 Hotpoint Range - Instructions

First turned off the circuit breaker. The two screws holding the element in place were removed. Next the element was pulled out about 3 inches. Wires were disconnected. Old element was removed. Wires were then attached to the new replacement element. The element was then re-attached to back of oven, using the two screws. Circuit breaker turned to on. About 5 minutes. Took longer to change the flashlight batteries!

First I removed the two screws in the back. then I removed the two screws attached to the brace at the top. pulled the old element out. Removed the screws that attatced the wires to the element. Attached the wires to the new element. Pushed the wires back in. Pushed the element in and attached the screws. Reattached the support. Turned on the broiler. The element smoked for a few seconds before getting red hot. It is working fine.

Pull the stove out from the wall and unplug. Had to remove back of stove, the aluminum sheilding and the duct work to get at wires use nut driver. Then used nut driver to remove nuts from broiler unit inside stove. Take the front overn dover off first. The new part did not match up with the wires so I used a needle nose to spread the wire clips just a tad so they would fit over the tabs of the broiler unit. Do all of this behind the stove as you do not have eough wire to do this effectively from the oven side. After I had the tabs fitted to the broiler unit. I removed them and fed wires back through the stove. I then went back to the front of the stove and put the broiler back in and put support bar back in to ceiling of stove and the two nuts back on to affix broiler to back of oven. Put the aluminum baccking and duct work back onto the back of the stove and plugged it back in. Pretty easy job.

Moved stove from wall, unplug the stove from the wall outlet, remove the oven racks, unscrew the plate against the oven wall supporting the element with a small adjustable wrench, pull out the element slowly without tearing the insulation & stretching the two wires, unscrew with a phillips screwdriver each wire with care, as a precautionary measurement: do not make contact with the other wire and any other part of the stove, even though it was still unpluged. Install the new element in reverse procedure...turn on Bake Element on low temperature..when it glows when hot..ready to go.

Turned off power at panellboard. Disconnected mounting hardware from inside oven chamber. Pulled failed heating element with wires attached into the oven chamber. Disconnected wiring and reconnected them to the new heating element. Tightened screws while holding connectors with pliers. Applied electrical tape to connections. Pushed wires back into opening and secured heating element back into place. Restored power nad verifed proper operation. The other heater purchased will be used when the bake element finally fails,

(1) Turned off power source.
(2) Removed rust on screw heads before attempting to loosening them up.
(3) Pulled the element out to expose the connections.
(4) Disconnected with phillips screw driver, taped off wires to prevent mixed-up during re-installation.
(5) Re-installed new element using new screws provided.

First thing to do is to KILL THE POWER. The last thing you want is for two leads feeding power to a range coil burner "hot" when you are working on them. After power is off, I removed the coils and set them aside. The terminals had "fried" apparently from to much cooking with hot oils and having the "over splash" working its way down to where the coils plug into the terminals and over time the oil getting in the terminals causes shorting / frying of the leads / contacts.

Anyway, after removing the heat coils I removed the drip pans and cleaned up the area underneath before working on terminals. I like a clean area when I work. I then unscrewed the "brackets" that house the terminals with a Phillips screwdriver and pulled out the assembly.

To completely remove the assembly I cut with a straight razor the existing heat shrink around the wire nuts (These two had been replaced once before. On first go around, I just cut the terminal assembly off and stripped the wire to attach the new terminals). Then I removed the wire nuts and the old assembly. After that I trimmed the wire to the correct length on the new terminal assembly and checked that the wire from the stove was in good shape. Upon confirming I had a good lead, I connected the new terminal leads to the stove leads and put the heat shrink over the connections. I used a lighter to "shrink" the heat shrink to the new connection (not having a proper heat shrink gun, which most of us don't have, the lighter works well as long as you are careful and do not let the lighter heat up to much. Let the lighter cool (esp. if a plastic disposable type or it will melt and ruin the lighter or burn your fingers).

After that I cleaned the area where the terminal block bracket connects to the stove (it gets a bit gunked up over time) before screwing in the new bracket / assembly in place with my screwdriver.

I gave the drip pans a good cleaning, adjusted the new terminal brackets so they were even / centered, cleaned once more the area under the drip pan and replaced the drip pans. The types of pans I have are one piece with a hole for the heat coil leads to go through.

Before placing the coils back in the terminals I took a strip of medium grade, 220 grit, sand paper (you could use steal wool or small wire brush) and cleaned the terminal leads (the steal end that plugs into the terminal only, careful not to damage the burner). This was needed as the leads had accumulated some residue from the same dynamics that caused the burning / melting of the terminal leads and terminal block. Once the leads were clean I fitted them into the place in the new terminal blocks and drip pan grooves.

Finally I turned back on the breaker to the stove and cranked on the burners to test out the connection and that everything was working A-OK.

Job done:-)

I'm a pharmacist and no handyman but this was extremely simple. Don't let a burned out element lead to a $1,000 purchase of a new oven. I removed 2 screws in the plate using a nut driver inside the oven where bake element exits the oven (keep sheet metal screws). Removed duct work from rear of oven to expose insulation where wires are attached to element using standard screw driver. Cleaned inside of unkown chemicals spewed out during fire. Inserted new bake element, screwed wires onto element from back (2 hot wires go on one side since it's 220). I tried to use the screws that came with the element but they didn't work so I was able to use the old sheet metal screws to secure the element to the inside of the oven. Replaced duct work on back. Done.

I was very impressed how quickly the package arrived. I would you your company again. I found you with a google search.

Disconnect power. . . Remove control panel, pull wire connectors,[note location] remove old switch, install new, install wires, snip stem to length, set knob . . . Turn on power - works. [Note this is a live part even when not connected]

shut off electricity to the range, removed the screws holding the element in place, pulled the element out as far as it would go, removed the screws holding the wires in place, tossed the old element, attached the wires to the new element, pushed the element back into place and reattached the screws holding the element in place. Turned the electricity back on and the oven heated right up.

Also, the part arrived the day after I ordered it. Great Price & Great Service.

Ever the optimist, I'd replaced the burner on this relic of another time to no effect. That left the switch. You guys should know that when a burner element goes bad it can take out the switch. I should have put a meter on it. Wehn I looked for a replacement a few months ago there were still factory parts available, but they were $80 or so and I wasn't inclined to risk that on a 40 year old range. I offered to replace the raange for my daughter as a Christmas present but she like this old thing. It was an unusual size with a pan storage compartment on the left. I went on line and found this universal replacement for about $25 delivered. What the heck. I ordered it and it arrived within a week. I pulled the stove out, killed the breaker, pulled the knob off, used a nut driver to take ther rear panel off, two phillips screws under the knob hold the switch in. The terminals on the old switch are in a slightly different order but are clearly marked L1, L2, H1, H2 and P. The P is the power and has a smaller terminal so you can't put it on the wrong one. Just examine the old switch ( it was marked the same way) take off the L1 and put in on the L1 of the new switch and so on, make sure you use the correct knob adapter to fit your old knob and break the switch stem to the correct length. It will break easilly if you hold it with one pliers and break it with another. Screw the new switch in place with he old screws. At this point, I closed the breakers and tested it. It worked fine. I turned the breakers off again. Buttoned it up and slid the stove back into place. 20 minutes tops. Great product. Good for another forty years.

Replace part an wires

New one a little different ,but it was marked for wiring!
Had to install upside down because wires would not reach right side up!
Had to pull back side of knob out and turn 180 degrees and glue in knob, so knob would be right side up!
Works fine! Now all burners work again!

1. Make sure electricity is off!
2. Remove 2 screws at rear of oven where the bake element is attached.
3. Pull out far enough to remove the 2 screws where the wires attach.
4. Lift out the old element and set the new one in.
5. Reattach the wires.
6. Reattach the element to the rear of the stove.
7. Turn electricity back on.