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Models > RAX7244KQ0 > Instructions

RAX7244KQ0 Roper Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for RAX7244KQ0 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the RAX7244KQ0
61-75 of 2,002
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Washer filled v e r y slowly

  • Customer: Jonathan from Arlington, VA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 24 of 27 people found this instruction helpful
I'd noticed for a while that our 15-year-old Kenmore washer was filling slowly, but when it started to take 30 minutes to fill to the "medium" level, I knew something was really wrong. There was plenty of water pressure, so I replaced a hose that was loaded with minerals and cleaned the filter (also clogged with minerals). But that didn't help! So I ordered a new water inlet valve, and replaced that. There's nothing tricky about the repair -- the hardest part is opening and closing the washer, for which I found instructions online. (Even so, it's the most time-consuming part of the project.) The result is the washer now fills as fast as when it was new. Just for fun, I took apart the old valve and expected to find it encrusted with minerals, but it looked fine, so I'm not sure where the actual breakdown was. But since the part only cost $25 -- less than a service call, for sure -- I was very happy to use a half hour of my time and keep the machine going a while longer.

Washer would not spin and the agitator would not turn

  • Customer: Gilbert from Fair Lawn, NJ
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 26 of 34 people found this instruction helpful
I basically dismantled the washer and turned the washer over to access the motor,transmission and pump.I disconnected the electrical connections first.I then released the clips for the pump and the clips for the transmission.The coupler was broken in little pieces.I went to Google to search for parts and happened to reach your Web Site.I found the part number for the coupler from the schematic and ordered it.It was then I discovered the part number for the cam dogs for the agitator so I ordered it also.While on you site I read the various troubleshooting stories and how each was repaired.I put myself through a lot of unnecessary work by dismantling the whole washer when all I had to do was turn it over and access it from the bottom.The parts arrived in three days and the install was rather simple thanks to the direction of your site.I had a heck of a time reassembling the washer but all in all $42.00 was a lot cheaper than a repairman or a new washer.We now have a working washer and no leaks.
Thanks to your site ,I have a happy wife and clean clothes.

Screw agitator would free spin

  • Customer: Charles from San Diego, CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 23 of 26 people found this instruction helpful
Job was easy! Just remove the top cap with a screw driver. With a socket and extension, remove the bolt that holds the agitator to the transmission shaft. Pull up on the agitator and lift it off the shaft. I had to use the screw driver to pry off the center piece that held the cogs because it did not what to separate from the rest of the agitator. Removed the pieces of the old, broken cogs, cleaned up the parts and installed the new cogs with the center piece upside down. I then took some silicone lubricant and lubed the area the cogs rub on and the opening the center piece spins in on the rest of the agitator. I then removed the Thrust Spacer on the mail part of the agitator but just lifting off the old one and putting on the new one. Then, with the center piece that holds the cogs upside down I inserted it into the upper corkscrew section of the agitator so that the cogs would not fall out. While holding the two pieces together, I turned it back right-side-up and installed it back onto the other part of the agitator and then on the shaft. Re-installed the bolt and tightened with the socket. That's it! It sounds more complicated then it really was.

lid switch plastic screw holes fatigued and broke - switch then did not close

  • Customer: Anthony from La Jolla, CA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 25 of 33 people found this instruction helpful
This is a machine I bought from Costco in 2001 - it has been very reliable and this was its first repair.
Getting the top off this washer requires a lot of disassembly. However, if you push the drum down on the right hand side of the machine, you can easily reach under the lid and remove the old switch. Mine had broken loose from its plastic mounts, so the lid plunger no longer activated it. Save the two screws that go through the washer top to secure the new switch.
I unplugged the electricity, reached under the top and pulled the old switch out. Its cables are enclosed in a stiff plastic hose with a slit down its length so you can pull the wires through the slit. You need to pull out around 6 inches of the wires. I then cut the wires to remove the old switch and next cut the wires on the new switch to the same length as the ones removed. Stagger the cuts about 1 inch so that the two joints will not be on top of each other. I stripped each end of the two wires, slipped shrink-wrap tubing (from radio shack) on to the new switch wires, then soldered the new switch wires to the existing wires back to the control center. I then slipped the shrink wrap over the soldered joints and shrank it with a match. Feed the joined wires back into the plastic tube and feed the switch under the washing machine rim. It takes a little maneuvering to get the switch aligned with the two screw holes in the top. Be sure the switch is pushed up into the lip opposite the screw holes - push the back end of the switch up into the lip before trying to align the front end of the switch with the screw holes. Align the screw holes with the switch holes, install the two screws and check that you hear the slight click of the microswitch if you push down a pencil into the interlock slot before you tighten everything up. Plug in the electricity and off you go!

Agitator wasn't spinning well

  • Customer: Nora from Marshall, TX
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 23 of 28 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the screw that held it in place with a socket. The agitator became loose and easy to remove at this time so I lifted it from the washing machine. I then just placed the new agitator in place and replaced the screw being careful not to do it too tight. The replacing of this part was an easy job and thanks to Part Select it saves me hundreds of dollars.

Agitatorwouldn't agitate on the washing machine

  • Customer: Kelly from Newport News, VA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 21 of 22 people found this instruction helpful
before ordering the parts, I pulled the cap of the agitator, removed some internal parts of the agitator - had to remove one hex head bolt, and noticed the threads on the 3 little teenie weenie plastic dogs were worn off. I bought the repair kit on line after entering the model number, parts were here in a few days, and the repair took about 15 minutes. Works like new again.

The directions provided with the parts were very clear and made the job quick, easy, and painless.

would not rinse or spin

  • Customer: Damian from north port, FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 22 of 26 people found this instruction helpful
relaced the timer, wich was not the prob. it was the switch on the lid that was bad , it was a seald switch that just came apart from what i have no idea, so i repaired the switch,

Water constantly dripped into washer when it was off.

  • Customer: MARK from MARION, MA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 20 of 21 people found this instruction helpful
Turned off water and pulled power plug, Then unscrewed hot and cold hoses from washer.
I took off the top control by undoing the 2 screws in front and then the two screws on the back plastic latches. Mover it forware and took off the 2 screws on the bottom of the back which came up and off easily. Undid the two screws holding the Water valve to the back and undid the water outlet tube and the wireing. Replaced with new valve and reattached tubing and wires. Screwed back on and reattached controls.
Actually was very easy even without repair manual to the washing machine.

valves allowed water to overflow during the rinse cycle, sometimes took forever to fill.

  • Customer: Sam from Robertsville, MO
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 21 of 25 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the screws holding the control unit down, removed a couple at the rear,
Disconnected the electrical clip that plugs into the top, under the control unit.
This allows enough slack to pivot it ( the control unit) upside down and get it out of the way enough to remove the spring clips that hold the top to the back.
Popped out the two clips that hold the back to the top.
Pulled the back out, up until the plastic soap dispenser , (which is attached to the back) hits under the lip of the top.
This does not allow enough room to get to the valves.
I finally figured out you have to lift the entire top up high enough to clear the back while pulling it ( the back) out.
Disconnected the hose clamp, electric connectors, installed the new valves into the supplied mounting plate replaced the valves .
Re -connected the hose and electric connectors and re assembled the back.
The only problem I had was when one of the spring retainers that hold the back to the top popped off and fell inside the unit, which forced me to remove everything including the back bottom screws, which caused the sides to pop off, the mounting ears , which are attached to the back,
Took some finesse but finally retrieved the spring clamp and finished everything back together.
It was a bit tricky keeping the plastic gaskets between the back and the sides from falling inside as I reassembled it.
But all is well, and would have been more difficult without the expierence written by others who posted, on the site.
Thank you to all, for the help.
I hope my efforts will help someone else.

leak from the front, bottom edge

  • Customer: Bryant from Jacksonville, FL
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 24 of 34 people found this instruction helpful
First I watched the vid, from this website that showed how to replace a pump on the Whirlpool model I have. It was very helpful. Then, on the same web page as the vid for washer pump replacement several DIYers describe how they did the repair and rate how difficult it was. This also was very helpful. The info from these two sources confirmed to me that it was the pump that was leaking. Tilting the washer back far enough so I could see the pump also visually confirmed it was the pump.
If the pump had come off easily I would not have had to take the cabinet off. All I would have had to do was lay the washer on its' back to get the pump off. But noooo, the pump was rusted so tightly to the motors' shaft that I had to be more aggressive, to remove the pump, than the measures mentioned in the vid.
After finally getting the pump off I saw that the end of the motors' shaft had corroded and was misshapened enough so that I had to "persuade" the new pump onto the shaft.
I also ordered these parts (1. Direct Drive Coupling 2. Agitator Repair Kit and 3. Clutch Assembly) after I read in the DIYers descriptions that many of them, who changed their pump, also changed these parts. Since my washer was 15 yrs old it made sense to replace these parts which usually wear out before the pump.
Unfortunately, after I got everything reassembled the new pump leaked more than the old one. Guess I over-"persuaded" the new pump onto the shaft. That, and I don't think the new pump is as well built as the original so it couldn't take much persuasion.
Now I either: 1. buy a new pump and motor or 2. buy a new washer which is what I'll most likely do.
If I had a do-over I would only get the pump. If it worked properly with no leaks, then I would buy the other 3 parts, if it didn't work, I would only be out $40 instead of the $95 I'm out for the 4 items. Being frugal or, as my family says, "cheap," I do have to be careful. There is a point where repairing something old is more a point of pride than good sense. I don't know where that point is and I definitely wouldn't have brought this up if the new pump had fixed the washer.
Also, after struggling for quite some time to put the cabinet back on, I Googled "how do I get a Whirlpool washer cabinet back on?" After watching one of the vids Google answered back-I was able to put the cabinet back on in less than 10 minutes.
I hope this has been helpful. Happy DIYing!

agitator making noise and didn't want to turn

  • Customer: Jo Anne from Crossville, TN
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 19 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
I unsnapped the top of the mechanism and removed the agitor assembly, (I had already put together the new one,) I just had to unsrew the old one to get it out and screw in the new one. This took me less than 10 minutes from start to finish. My husband was away for the week and this was left up to me if I wanted it done. So I (a female) decided that I would attempt it.
A Piece of Cake. thanks to Parts Select, I have a few more years with this machine. I was really hating to purchase a new machine. So for less than $25.00 with no service call "I Fixed It!"

Upper agitator not working

  • Customer: Eric from Saint Petersburg, FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 19 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
Read the directions in the repair kit first- a 7/16" socket and 10" extension is needed. Assembled new dogs on agitator "cup" and retainer, added marine(waterproof) grease to assembly washer, replaced bolt anyway and installed new o ring. Took less than 15 minutes-READ ALL DIRECTIONS FIRST!

water leak at pump

  • Customer: oscar from missouri city, TX
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 20 of 24 people found this instruction helpful
1. remove 2 hoses at pump using pliers to open hose clamps and sliding them out of the way.
2. remove 2 retainers holding pump with screwdriver.
3. remove old pump and install new pump
4. clamp pump using retaining clips
5. re-connect hoses

Upper agitator wore out

  • Customer: Caven from Richmond, KY
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 18 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
Pull the cap off of the top of the agitator.
Pull the plastic peice that is inside of the agitator up.
Use a deep well socket with an extension and remove the nut.
Pull the agitor off.
Follow the installation instructions that come with the part.

I saved $40 on the cost of the parts and the price to repair, which would probably cost about the same as the part I would have picked up at the local supplier. ~$90.

This is the first time I used the site. Two thumbs up. The price is right and the delivery is fast.

Found cracked brake shoe

  • Customer: Michael from Trafalgar, IN
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
  • 20 of 26 people found this instruction helpful
Remove the main bolts that hold the gearbox in place, pull the gearbox and shaft out. You will see the brake shoes and drum--the large spring is a struggle to replace. Getting it out was not hard. The biggest struggle I had was replacing the brake shoe spring after replacing the shoes. I ultimately compressed the spring in a vise, then used safety wired it, then placed it between the shoes, then cut the wire to relaease the spring.
All Instructions for the RAX7244KQ0
61-75 of 2,002