RAX5133AL1 Roper Washer - Instructions

After removing the outer shell of the machine, and disconnecting the supply hoses, I leaned the machine on it's back and disconnected the drain line. Then, it was simply a matter of removing and replacing the damaged pump with the new one. The pump is held in place by two easily removable clips. The hardest part of the whole process was making sure the shaft from the motor lines up with the corresponding hole on the pump.

Followed instructions on WEB site, they were very easy.

watched the video piece of cake good job guys

So, the instructional video was great but be warned that you REALLY need to hammer the part into place. Basically hammer it into place so that the end of the shaft that it goes on is flush with the plastic piece of the coupler on both ends. Otherwise, you'll put the washer together and run a load and it'll squeal and smell like burning rubber. We had to take it apart like 3 times before we got it on there securely enough. We would then run an empty load and it would be fine but as soon as we would add clothes the squealing and burning would ensure. So, my advice is to hammer it in well and save yourself the time and struggle!

With no broke springs I thought that they might be weak so I ordered them but didn't install them as I found that the basket had a drag at one point of turning it, so I took it down to the clutch and found the nylon arm that released the brake had the small pins broken off. This would cause the brake to not release full enough that the eccentricity in it had a drag spot during the spin causing tremendous vibration. To disassemble I took the transmission off and the basket off and install new clutch assembly with the basket laying horizontal on a table. I did notice that the new clutch only had three pads on the band and the old one had six. I called you back with no satisfaction, but was given the phone # of the manufacturer and they confirmed that theirs had six pads but the part # checked out so I installed it. It now sits basically still during a cycle. I made and supervised the making of parts in a machine shop all my working carrier and I don't understand the weak link of the nylon pins milled / molded on a part that takes a lick from the actuator every cycle. It appears to me it was made to break, but it is about 20 years old. Thanks for your video help on the tube. Fred

Found part needed in partselect website, watch the video after i opened the rear panel ( i should have watch the video before doing any work :( ) that will much easier. after replacing part my washer is now working like new :). Thanks PartSelect. next project dryer ;-))

took it apart and put in the new valve

changed parts easily, following the video. Problem was the BRAKE CAM DRIVER, the plastic piece that fits around the shaft near the drum. The old one was visibly torn up, the pegs worn off, the whole thing worn down. The problem with the repair was the video showed an "E ring" holding it on and my washer had no E ring, had nothing hold it. It just sat there. Installed it anyway, although I was worried it was too loose. Sure enough there was a problem. it spun initially then started that ugly clicking noise. turned off washer immediately, disassembled again, and prayed. I found a large flat washer to take up the slack between the clutch and the plastic brake cam driver, reassembled, tightening the nuts a fair bit tighter than before. both the nuts on the transmission and the nut on top the agitator. works perfect!

Unplug washer. turn hot and cold water off. disconnect and mark water hoses. put a blanket on floor and lean washer on its back. use screw driver to remove metal clamps from water pump. use ratchet or nut driver to,,remove screws from metal clamps on motor.remove metal clamps with screw driver. unplug wire harness from motor. remove motor and remove old drive coupling and repelace with new part.

Remove top cap to access 1/2" bolt. Remove bolt and pull entire assembly up and off of shaft.Disassemble unit by taking long std. screwdriver to release 2 small locking tabs. Flip over and remove ratcheting upper assemble from larger lower piece.Now you will see the broken cams and be able to replace.Assemble in reverse order.

Removed the the drain hose from the pump. Removed nut from the agitator. Then laid the washer on its back after removing the inlet hoses. took out the pump, remove wire harness from motor then removed the motor. removed the three bolts holding in the the transmission. The one mistake I made was that I removed the springs for the brake shoes and this cause me to have a lot of trouble trying to put them back on. Once the clutch arrived, I removed the old clutch from the transmission shaft, and installed the new clutch using all the parts that came with it. Then put everything together in the reverse order that they were removed in.

unplug electric cord. shut off then disconnect hot and cold water hoses from nozzles. place drain & water hoses over washer. place washer on floor( back/hose side down). use pliers to remove hose clamps(2) from pump. unfasten metal clamps(2) from pump. remove & replace unit. reinstall by reversing process.

Followed the video and everything went exactly as the video said! Just follow the video to a tee!

flowed step by step video it was easy to do. thanks very much

Great service, pricing and shipping. Needed only ratchet, 8" extension and 7/16"socket. Replaced thrust spacer, agitator directional cogs and agitator cap w/seal, using marine wheel bearing grease on thrust spacer and agitator spline. Very easy fix.