RAB4232DL0 Roper Washer - Instructions

This is a not for men only job. The worst part was taking the flimsy, rusty-on-the-inside case on and off. If you've never done it before, I would recommend photographing each section that you take apart so you can more easily see how it goes back together. The video is a great help for general ideas, but unless your model is exactly like that one there may be other parts. Wiggling the clamps off the hoses wasn't easy as the wrench kept slipping of the clamp ends. Finally I figured out that a wrench that clamps on and stays put was the right answer. Replacing the pump was easy--just like in the video. Now I have a secondary problem: the water now gushes out of the standpipe when the water exits the tub. I think the pump is better than the last one even before it broke, so the water is coming out too fast. I found a little part that makes the exit hole on the drain hose a lot smaller, plus I covered it with a stocking in case the part came flying off. Last time I tested it only about a cup of water came out of the pipe. I think there may be air in the pipe, so I have some things to try for that but at least I feel like I'm going in the right direction. This site is great--I already paid for one professional repair and the washer isn't worth another one but I'd like to keep it running for a few more months anyway.

The top of the agitators has a cap that can be removed. The top section can be removed allowing you access to a bolt holding the bottom section in place. I used a reachet and an extension to remove the bolt and remove the bottom section. The replacement parts were re-assembled in reverse.

I watched the video on the Partselect website. Appled the same technique for my machine and the repair was just as easy. Unplugged the washer, removed two screws from the top panel, flipped it up and removed the two brackets that hold the cabinet in place. Removed the cabinet, the pump is right in front held on by two clamps. Removed the clamps, unhooked the hoses, put the new pump in attached the hoses and the clamps. I then put the cabinet back together and the repair was complete, wash machine is running again with no leaks.

I watched the video on the website on how to repair this and followed it. The repair went quickly. I spent more time moving the washer in and out of the location it was in than the time it took to repair.

Remove the outer washing machine housing. Close-up inspection located the leak source. The water pump was removed by popping off the upper and lower metal brackets, then removing it from the two rubber hoses with their pinch clamps. Ordering a new part was easy on your web site, and it arrived in 2 days! I reversed the process, with the smaller hose's pinch clamp hard to manage with simple pliers, but doable with persistence. I LOVE my 23 yr old whirlpool washer, and don't want a newer model, so thanks for making repairs doable for an old lady!

I got to a point where I was totally confused and went back to PartSelect's Home Page and found a video showing how to do it. I listened very carefully to what was said and watched how the demonstrator did everything. I went back to the machine and had it finished in 15 minutes. It went exactly the way the man said to do it. So when all else fails, watch the video.

I watched the online video and followed the instructions,The only problem I had was getting the pump off the drive shaft it had rust built up,but it worked fine and was shipped as promised

I simply watched the video that was on YouTube for this site. It was dead on with my washer and super easy to do. The step by step was just awesome and easy to follow. The repair took just over an hour and I even cleaned the entire inside of this 12 year old washer which was pretty cruddy. The washer now spins great and works like new again. All for about $50. Thanks.

A word to the wise watch the repair video first guys and save an hour or 2 of aggrivation. I saved a couple hundred bucks instead of having the repair guys do it. It was easier than I thought. Machine runs like new again. Thanks Partselect. L.A.B. Rocland, Mass.

Disconnect washer from all connections and slide away from the wall far enough to give clearance where you can tilt the washer and lay on it's back. Remove old pump and replace with new pump, then reconnect washer to wall connections.

The repair was surprisingly simple. We followed the video and it was a simple fix :)

Pulled the machine away from the wall about 18 inches. Tip the washer back until resting stably against the wall. Used plies to remove two spring hose clamps. Use the screw driver to remove spring clips. Pulled old pump off and placed new pump on. Replace spring clips and hoses with clamps, and lowered the washer. Done!

the video pretty much told the whole story except I forgot to put the plastic collar piece on the new clutch when I put it back together so I got to do it twice. second time went even easier. Thanks for the video,it was great.

Very old washing machine began to make a horrible noise and agitator would attempt to agitate during spin cycle. Eventually determined that the problem was in the transmission. The way the transmission works is that when the motor runs in one direction a metal fork pushes on a cam mechanism and lifts a spring loaded gear on the agitator shaft from the gears that make it move, putting it in neutral so that it can spin freely with the basket in the spin cycle. When the motor runs the other way the same fork pulls on the cam and drops the gear down so that it engages with the agitator mechanism. The problem was that the plastic cam pieces on the base of the shaft had worn down to the point where they where not fully lifting the gear clear and it was partially engaging with the drive mechanism. Repair was relatively straight forward except the YouTube video that I was using showed the parts on upside down. All the other transmission parts are labeled with TOP on one side but oddly the cam pieces are not marked. For reference the U shaped protrusion on the cam parts goes on the top of the assembly, not the bottom. All in all it took me about 12 hours to do this fix, but at least 10 of that was simply trying to figure out how the mechanism worked and tracking down the problem. Be sure to refill the transmission case and use some RTV sealant to seal the cover back on when you are done, just like you would for an oil pan on an engine.

Well i'm an auto technician by trade so I just jumped right in without reading or watching anything, but I saw the video and in the days waiting for the part to show up I watched it. I would recommend everyone to watch the video because it is simpler than I made it.Easy repair any mechanical skills at all and you shouldnt ave any trouble.