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Models > PSS26SGRBSS > Instructions

PSS26SGRBSS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

All installation instructions for PSS26SGRBSS parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the refrigerator repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the PSS26SGRBSS
61-75 of 1,251
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Replace broken ice funnel dispenser cradle

  • Customer: David from Sparks, NV
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 45 of 80 people found this instruction helpful
Removed outer trim by pulling it carefully out of its clips. Then disengaged the electronic display card by grabing the bottom of the card to disengage the card from the upper clips. I leaned the card forward and disconnected the wire connectors. Removed the 4 screws to take off the frame that contains the funnel. Remove the broken funnel from clips. Note study how the spring is engaged. Note position of the rubber funnel how there is a gap for the water tube. Removed the rubber funnel and attached to new funnel dispenser. Start at one end of the rubber flap and work around engaging the rubber into tabs. Replace the Funnel dispenser back into frame. Make sure the longer wire of the spring sits flat on the plastic frame and that the right elbow of the spring raps around the edge of the funnel. Secured the frame assembly back into the Refig using 4 screws and attached out trim starting withe bottom tabs engaged first.

Water line froze, food in fridge started freezing

  • Customer: Bradley from Spokane, WA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 29 of 33 people found this instruction helpful
I knew almost as soon as I found the frozen milk that the air-flow diverter, whatever it's called, had broken. It's a plastic part that opens and closes to allow cold air from the freezer into the fridge side.

Step one: clear off the top two shelves and take them out.

Step two: remove the lower piece of the assembly. It pops straight out at the top and drops down after that. If you pull the bottom straight out, you may break the bits that holds it to the fridge wall.

Step three: remove screws holding in light, and then the screws holding in the AASM COVER FF INLET K (wish I had a better name for it).

Step Four: Unplug the unit from the fridge wall.

Installation, reverse, except maybe unplug the unit earlier.

No water or ice and a constant ticking sound from the control panel

  • Customer: john from waxahachie, TX
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 29 of 33 people found this instruction helpful
Very easy repair to do. Read instruction sheet before starting! Unplug unit prior to removing panel cover.

Remove three hex head screws holding control panel cover in place and reveal the circuit board.

Remove all the wiring harnesses by gently pulling them from the sockets on the board. Do not pull the wires - make sure you pull on the plastic socket so that the wires aren't damaged. If plugs seem tight use needle nose pliers to gently wiggle them out. Remove earth (green) wire from spade connection on fridge chassis. The new board has a slightly different connection for the earth wire.(No spade connector - wire now has a ring connector that attaches between panel cover and fridge chassis using one of the hex head panel screws when the cover is replaced.

Using needle nose pliers locate four plastic mounting tabs holding the board in place and squeeze in the end of each tab whilst gently pulling the board off it. Repeat for all four tabs and remove old circuit board.

Making sure the new board is the right way round locate it on the plastic tabs and push gently until you hear the tabs click. Gently pull the circuit board to ensure it is locked in place.

Re-install all the wiring harnesses. Put a hex head screw through the cover panel and slip the earth wire ring over it and screw panel to chassis. Replace two remaining hex head screws and plug fridge back in.

Voila!! No more ticking sounds and a plentiful supply of ice and water!!

Icemaker stripper arm tine broke off (by me), causing ice to remain and not discharge normally. The cause was a stripperarm tine becoming caught under an opposing tine in the icemaker preventing it from discharging ice altogether.

  • Customer: Errol from Mill Creek, WA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 34 of 48 people found this instruction helpful
Installed the new stripper arm per instructions - an easy installation. After a few cycles the original problem happened again, the stripper arm tine caught under an opposing tine stopping the unit from operating. I removed the stripper arm, after marking where it was caught, and filed it down so it wouldn't catch anymore. Icemaker works fine now. Troubleshooting tip. If a stripper arm tine is caught under an opposing tine, gently slide a screwdriver between them to release it without breaking the tine. Remove the arm, file it down 1-3 mm, and reinstall.

Water if refigerator door is really slow. Ice making is really slow.

  • Customer: Fred from Edgartown, MA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 35 of 53 people found this instruction helpful
Used by pass filter and problem disappeared. Of course wayer is now unfiltered. This is a GE design flaw. Also replacement filters are outrageously expensive and do not last long. We have good water here and I'll stick with the bypass.

Gasket wasn't sealing

  • Customer: Joe from Succasunna, NJ
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 29 of 36 people found this instruction helpful
Replaced gasket. No tools requires. Just pull the old one out and press new one in channel with hands. TIP: heat the new one slightly with a hair dryer or a heat gun on low. Makes it more flexible

The compartment behind control panel with snow

  • Customer: Victor from Houston, TX
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 35 of 55 people found this instruction helpful
I have unlock the black panel. With a screw driver I have removed 2 screws and removed 3 conectors from circuit board. So, I had access to solenoid set. From this point on was intuitive. Very easy.

I recomend these parts be replaced once time for each two years.

Icemaker would not dispense cubes or crushed ice

  • Customer: Jeffrey from Highlands Ranch, CO
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 27 of 31 people found this instruction helpful
Cause: Failed relays on main circuit board. Fix: Main circuit board replacement: Unplugged refrigerator. Removed 10 screws securing main circuit board metal cover (located on back of refrigerator) using a nutdriver. Disconnected 7 multi-pin electrical connectors from the circuit-board by firmly pulling each connector from the circuitboard sockets using a needlenose plyers. Depressed the small locking prong on each of the 4 plastic circuit board mounting pegs while pulling the board off the mounting pegs.
Pressed new board in place over mounting pegs. Re-plugged in all connectors (no confusion because each connector has unique pin counts). Replaced all mounting cover bolts, making sure to pin green ground wire to last bolt. Plugged in refrigerator. Done.
Note: I determined the main circuit board was bad by removing the auger motor assembly from the freezer and testing the auger motor harness power pins. AC voltage should jump when ice demand lever is pushed (while pressing the internal door light off switch). If no voltage jump, then auger motor relays on main circuit board have failed, indicating board replacement is needed.
Another check would be connecting an extension cord to the auger motor terminals and plugging it in. Motor should run. If it does, then motor is good and main circuit board is bad. If it doesn’t then auger motor is bad and needs replacement.

Ice maker wouldn't dispense ice

  • Customer: Danny from Saint Augustine, FL
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 28 of 34 people found this instruction helpful
ice tray slides right out. 4 philips to remove the bottom, 1 to remove the arm that controls the mode (regular vs. crushed). It just slips into a hole on a wheel at the dispenser end - the same end has two tabs you push in and slide up/out the coil screw that rotates and drives ice out. Once one end is out, it slips out, replace the cup, reverse. This is the 2nd time I've ordered from PartsSelect, both times the part came in just a couple of days, easy navigation on the site, plenty of security validation, etc.

Trying to defrost the water line in the refrigerator door I melted (deformed) the plastic parts.

  • Customer: STEVEN from CLARKSVILLE, TN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 36 of 58 people found this instruction helpful
I carefully removed the trim from around the dispenser area then freed the catches in the top of the electronic card. I leaned the card forward and disconnected the electrical connections, then removed the card. I removed the four screws holding the shield to the door and removed the shield. Then I removed the funnel from the shield and removed the spring from the old funnel and placed it on the new one. I removed the light and socket from the old shield and installed the in the new one, then installed the new funnel on the new shield, used the four screws to install the assembly on the door and replaced the trim piece.

Evap Fan was sqeeling

  • Customer: David from Raleigh, NC
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 34 of 52 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the shelf and light cover, then removed 3 screws from the ice make. Then I removed 6 screws from the moter cover (back wall of the freezer) and removed it. I then removed the 2 screw holding the moter. This is where the soldering iron comes in. The wire leads from the old motor were molded into a 3" rubber holder and the end wire plastic connector held 6 prongs (2 from a thermo tube). The new motor only held the 4 moter prongs, 2 were empty. To resolve this problem I cut the wires on both the new and old motor. I then attached the old connector to the new moter with the soldering iron and shrink tubing. Replaced all the parts I had removed and started it up. Works like a champ.....

ice maker leaked water slowly and froze the cubes together

  • Customer: Steven from Cave Creek, AZ
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 31 of 45 people found this instruction helpful
The replacement ice maker that GE supplies for my old refrigerator is a little different than the original. The electrical plug changed from a round plug to a square one. They include an adapter for it, but DON'T USE IT. There's not enough room for the bulky cord and connector. I got a much cleaner installation by taking apart the old and the new ice maker, and then splicing in the old connector into the new ice maker. You need to carefully unscrew a circuit board inside to wire it in, and it'll be more secure if you solider 3 wires instead of using crimp connectors. The instructions also tell you to use your old 'ice breaker', but it won't fit on the new ice maker. I just left the new ice maker's ice breaker on, and it seems to work perfect.

Received the Temp Sensor but no documentation how to replace it

  • Customer: Stephen from Sebring, FL
  • Difficulty: Very Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required:
  • 27 of 35 people found this instruction helpful
I still have not be able to replace the sensor as I've been unable to locate any info, or figure out where it is located. The water valve was easy to replace and took less than a half hour

After looking further into your website I found all the info, diagrams and instructions to replace the Temp Sensor, which was not too involved, thank you. Now to wait and see if this was the cause and my Refrigerator is up and running again

bad light socket

  • Customer: nancy from silsbee, TX
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 25 of 30 people found this instruction helpful
unplugged refrigerator. removed light bulb from old socket. unsnapped old light socket and pulled it out just enough to diconnect the electrical plug that plugs into the socket . discarded the old socket and plugged in new socket. snapped in new socket into refrigerator. i watched how to do this simple procedure on you tube and decided to do it myself. easy easy easy

Drive Cup Broke and Helix Cracked

  • Customer: Michael from Surprise, AZ
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
  • 25 of 30 people found this instruction helpful
Pulled Ice bin out and emptied ice out of bin. Removed 4 screws holding bin to frame and seperate bin from frame. Takeoff or loosen dispenser arm that has 1 screw holding it. On the sides in the front I pushed tabs in and pulled up on front auger/chip assembly area using two screwdrivers to hold tabs in. Pulling assembly up took a little pressure by hiting down on main ice bin to disengage and watching to see that tabs were also disengaged at same time. After that it was take c-clip off loosen nut and disassemble. You might want to draw a diagram as to how everything was in place or take a picture with your camera phone to make it alot easier for you to remember how everything went. Remove and Replace parts and assemble in reverse.Once you start to do it you'll see how it goes so easy, hopefully I didn't miss to many steps but if I did You'll see what needs to be done to go to the next step.
All Instructions for the PSS26SGRBSS
61-75 of 1,251