Models > PSS26SGPASS > Instructions

PSS26SGPASS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

All installation instructions for PSS26SGPASS parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the refrigerator repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the PSS26SGPASS
106-120 of 1,292
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"plastic" retainer/bushing in rear of ice bucket damaged

  • Customer: Lawrence from Wilmington NC
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 13 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
Replaced plastic part and it immediately tore up.
Ordered entire assembly, icebucket and auger. Replaced and is working fine.

Broken Auger Assembly

  • Customer: DIANNA from POWELL OH
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 12 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
First tried to fix old auger. Bad way to go. Spent $30 in parts and didn't work. Don't mess around. Order this whole thing, slide the old one out and the new one in and you're good to go. I wish I would have done this in the first place.

Frozen water filter and food in fresh food side

  • Customer: Herbert from Sunriver OR
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 11 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Initial diagnosis indicated faulty cold air damper, so first action was to remove the light assembly and then the plastic housing that contains the FF fan and damper. The two hidden screws at base of housing required removal of lower decorative plastic duct that turned to be held by snap in-tabs at top and slide away fastener at bottom. The damper housing is held to the roof of the FF chamber by two screws that were taken out to remove the light assembly.

When the plastic housing is pulled towards the front of the refrigerator, the multi-pin wire connector can be disconnected and the damper assembly easily removed.

Installation required need of a thin plate to seat a sponge rubber seal without damage, so I used a thin metal kitchen spatula. Nothing unexpected was encountered in reversing the disassembly process.

Although the new damper corrected the excessive cold situation, the temperature max-min span remained in excess of 15 degrees F, so the control panel was swapped in the small covered cavity located in the outside back of the refrigerator. A 1/4" nut driver and needle nose pliers were all the tools necessary for this operation.

Together the two replacement components have solved the frozen food problem and the over night max-min FF span is now 5 degrees or less.

freezer coils not thawing and fridge getting warm.

  • Customer: Gerald from Ada MI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 11 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
Replacing the heater is very easy. Remove the wire racks and the two lower rack bracket screws. Remove the two screws to the back panel, unclip the ground wire and remove the panel. Two screws hold he heater on and two wires for the connection.
However, this did not solve my problem. The story is this. The fridge was getting warm because the coils were freezing over. I called the local repair guys "poncho and lefty" and they came out and replace the themostat and charged me $150. It still froze over a week later. They came back and said it must be the circuit board and charged me just for the $125 part. Nope, it still froze over in a week. So I thought I would take things into my own hands and tell poncho and left to hit the trail. I then ordered a new heater because the old one looked bad even though it checked out okay with an ohm meter. Unfortunately, that didn't solve the problem either. The last thing is to replace are the temp sensors. But before I ordered anything I submitted my problem to a "fix it" forum and someone suggested to check the part number of the themostat that was put in. This turned out to be a brilliant observation. It seems poncho and lefty replace the thermostate with one that is used with a timer. This fridge has the timer built into the circuit board and has a very different temp range than the one they replace it with. Their first clue should have been that the wires were a different color than the one they were replacing and that the part number was totally different than the one they took out. So I ordered a new thermostat and the three temp sensors and replace all of this and the unit works as good as new. The forum also told me that the bullet shaped temp sensor were faulty and should all be replaced, which I did.
Now I have all new parts, so it should be good to go until the compressor takes a nose dive. Hopefully, that will not be for 5 or 6 more years.

fridge wouldn't cool, frozen food thawed

  • Customer: John from Milford UT
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 13 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
First my wife and i took the panel off the back, unscrewed the old mainboard, unplugged all the switches from it and prayed that the new one would work. We were without a fridge for 2 weeks beginning 2 days before Christmas!!!!! Gingerly, we put the new board in place, screwed it into the fridge, connected the switches, attached the ground wire, and held our breath as we plugged it back in. Within seconds, the familiar sound of water filling the icemaker was hear and there were cheers all around!!!

water tank cracked

  • Customer: Gene from pinetop AZ
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 11 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
things went well but would recomend you order the aligator clip just in case the old one doesn not seal properly that is what happened to me and I had to do a second order to get part.

Water dispensor would not shut off

  • Customer: John from Mason OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 13 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
Actually this was a two part repair of which I purchased both parts. The micro switch Pt # PS296176 and also a double outlet water valve Pt # PS304374 from Parts Select as well.

The difficult part was accessing the area to get to the micro switch.

The trim had to be removed, then the cover.

Then one unplugs the board and removed the face plate which also contains the micro switch.

Once removed the two electrical terminals had to be disconnected, the micro switch installed and terminal reconnected.

Then reverse the removal procedure.

Then on to the double outlet replacement.

Suggest watching the installation video for the replacement although it was really a straight forward repair.

Two things to remember.

1. Unplug the fridge

2. Shut off the water to the dispenser

Overall it was not bad at all.

This was my first attempt at refrigerator repair and it went well.

Good luck on yours.

John

Freezer door lever broke

  • Customer: James from Jacksonville FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 11 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
Unscrew the two mounting screws for the plastic vent plate on the bottom of the SS unit and take the remove the vent. Next, slide the end of the lever through the square hole in the bottom bracket and attach the hook end of the lever to one end of the lever spring. Pull on the other end of the lever spring and slip it over the spring mount finger that is a part of the bottom bracket frame. Finally,reattach the plastic vent plate with the 2 mounting screws. Total repair time was less than 15 minutes.

freezer and fridg would not hold the temp correctly. Getting too warm

  • Customer: Paul from Troy NY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 10 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
I had Sears comre and check it out. They wanted $188. for the part and wanted $211 to put it in. They had the part in the truck. The fridg is a GE Profile and only 2 years old. Told them to forget it. Took me literally less than 10 minutes. They did a diagnostics, cost me $77. they told me the problem. I ordered the part here. It came in 3 days and the directions included were awesome. straight forward. Nice to know there is a place to go to avoid getting the shaft from appliance giants. Thank You !

The details: removed the 3 screws, took a picture of the board, didn't need it, unplugged the 6 plugs. pushed 3 clipds holding the board, unscrewed the ground, removed the board, lined up the 3 clips and snapped the new board in place, replugged the plugs and screwed in the ground. Plug the fridg in, done. Literally that easy.

Ice was melting and freezing in bucket

  • Customer: John from Lodi CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 11 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
Frig and freezer were defrosting and refreezing other than normal. Home warranty contractor told me ice maker was faulty. Purchased new ice maker. Unplugged frig, loosened 2 screws with nut driver. unplugged old ice maker, lifted old ice maker out. Took old fill cup off old unit and put on new unit since new fill cup was a different size. Swapped ice maker insert from old to new unit. Plugged in new ice maker, slid over the 2 screws, tightened, and plugged in frig power. New ice maker works fine but still have defrosting and refreezing problem. Figure old ice maker probably works just fine. New contractor still trying to solve problem. Have had problems with this GE Monagram keeping proper temps since it was new in 2005, don't recommend it.

Motherboard burned out

  • Customer: Joe from Redlands CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 10 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
I ordered the part on Sunday and had it by Tuesday. It only took a few minutes to install. Basically, I unplugged the unit and removed the cover over the motherboard with a nutdriver. The wires were easy to unplug and reinstall. There was no way to incorrectly install since they could only fit in the correct position. I reinstalled the panel pluged it back in and now the fridge is working great.

Loud knocking noise with the evaporator fan

  • Customer: lk from carlsbad CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 10 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
I had taken the noise long enough and wanted to get this repaired. I didn't want to pay a repair man hundreds of dollars to do it so i decided to do it myself. I went on to YouTube and found a few videos that showed me how easy it was to do (very helpful).

I wasn't so sure all that noise would come from the Evaporator Fan motor so i ordered it and took the chance. For the small cost, it was worth the try.

All went well accessing the unit and removing the old part. Very fast indeed. However, the snag came when i went to plug in the new part electrical to the existing electrical adapters. The old part had 4 lead connections. The new part had 6. and the wires on the new part were different colors than the existing. I had to use some logic and courage to cut the wires on the new part and rewire the old adapter to this piece. Luckily, i wired everything correctly.

Calling Part Select got me a phone number for the parts manufacturer to help with the splicing but i opted to do it on my own.

The result is i have a noiseless refrigerator again. What should have taken 10 to 15 minutes took half an hour because of the wiring but overall, very easy.

FREEZER WAS NOT COLD ENOUGH TO KEEP FOOD FROZEN OR MAKE ICE

  • Customer: MARCELLA from FAIRDALE KY
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 11 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
I AM A SINGLE MOM OF TWO WITH LIMITED FUNDS. I HAD A REPAIRMAN COME OUT AND FIND THE PROBLEM AND GIVE AN ESTIMATE. WE WERE TOLD THAT IT WAS THE EVAPORATOR FAN MOTOR AND AND THE MAIN CONTROL BOARD. THE REPAIR WOULD COST $400 AND NO GUARANTEE. SO I CHECKED THE COST OF PARTS AND IT WAS $200 SO FOR NO GUARANTEE I FIGURED WHY NOT TRY IT MYSELF AND POSSIBLY SAVE $200. SO I ORDERED THE PARTS FROM PARTSELECT. EVEN THOUGH I PAID THE CHEAPEST POSTAGE THEY ARRIVED THE NEXT DAY. SO FROM WHAT I READ AND SAW THIS WOULD BE A PIECE OF CAKE. WELL LET ME JUST SAY IF THE FREEZER SECTION WAS GUTTED TO BEGIN WITH IT MIGHT NOT HAVE BEEN THAT BIG OF A DEAL. AS IT WAS GETTING TO THE TOP SCREWS OF THE PANEL THAT COVERS THE EVAPORATOR FAN REQUIRED THE REMOVAL OF THE ICEMAKER AND ALL. I AM NOT A TALL WOMAN NOR AM I A THIN WOMAN AND FITTING MY BODY IN THAT SMALL FREEZER SECTION WAS NOT EASY. THERE WERE TIMES THAT I HAD TO HAVE MY TEENAGERS REACH A LONG ARM IN AND HOLD A PART UP FOR ME. AFTER THAT I DISCOVERED THAT THE FAN I HAD PURCHASED ONLY HAD 4 WIRES. THE ONE FROM MY OLD FAN HAD 6. I DISCOVERED THAT 2 OF THE WIRES WENT TO SOME SORT OF SENSOR. LONG STORY SHORT I RIGGED IT. I WAS ABLE TO REMOVE THE 2 PRONGS FOR THE SENSOR AND INSERT THEM INTO THE EMPTY HOLES ON THE NEW FAN HARNESS. IT WASNT EASY. I HAVE LIMITED TOOLS TOO AND I WONT EVEN GET INTO HOW I DID IT. THEY DID NOT FIT THE GREATEST SO I USED THE ELECTRICAL TAPE TO COVER THE WHOLE CONNECTION. I PUT THE WHOLE THING BACK TOGETHER AND DEBATED ON TRYING IT WITHOUT PUTTING IN THE MAIN BOARD BUT I DECIDED TO TRUST THE REPAIRMAN THIS TIME AND GO FOR IT. GETTING TO THE MAIN BOARD WAS NO BIG DEAL. BUT WHAT DISTURBED ME WAS THE MAIN BOARD I HELD IN MY HANDS DID NOT LOOK EXACTLY LIKE THE MAIN BOARD I WAS ABOUT TO TAKE OUT. I WATCHED THE VIDEO 3 TIMES MY HOW EASY IT LOOKED. I THEN READ THE DIRECTIONS THAT CAME WITH IT. IT TALKED ABOUT REMOVING A PIN AND CUTTING A WIRE. WELL I ABOUT HAD A STROKE WORRYING. I FINALLY FOUND THE SERIAL # ON MY FRIG AND THANKFULLY MINE WAS NOT ON THE LIST. HOWEVER THE DIRECTIONS DID STILL SAY SOMETHING ABOUT IF THERE WASNT A WIRE IN PIN 2 PROCEED TO STEP 3. WELL I HAD A WIRE IN PIN 2. SO IT WAS CONFUSING. MY SERIAL # WASNT ONE OF THE MODELS #'S GIVEN BUT I DID HAVE A WIRE IN PIN 2. I JUST TOOK A CHANCE AND TRUSTED THE SERIAL #'S AND IGNORED THE REST OF IT. I PLUGGED THE WIRES ON THE NEW BOARD ONE AT A TIME. PUT THE COVER BACK ON AND PRAYED AS I PLUGGED IT IN. A SOFT PURR BEGAN. IT WAS RUNNING. THE FREEZER WAS AROUND 60 DEGREES. I PUT A ROOM THERMOMETER IN TO MAKE SURE IT WAS GOING DOWN. IT KEPT GOING DOWN. AROUND 3 HOURS AFTER I FINISHED THERE WAS A LOUD NOISE FROM THE FREEZER. IT HAD MADE ICE SOMETHING IT HAD NOT DONE IN MONTHS. I STAYED AWAKE MOST OF THE NIGHT WATCHING AND LISTENING TO IT. IT GOT DOWN IN THE SINGLE DIGITS I WAS AFRAID THAT MAYBE IT WOULD NEVER SHUT OFF. IT FINALLY SHUT OFF AS I WAS MAKING THE KIDS BREAKFAST THE NEXT MORNING. OF COURSE I WAS WORRIED THAT IT WOULD NOT RESTART. SO I OPENED THE FREEZER AND FANNED IN ROOM AIR. IT WORKED. SINCE THEN WE HAVE PURCHASED NO MORE DRY ICE OR REGULAR ICE. WE BOUGHT A TUB OF ICE CREAM AND MORE THAN ONE DAY OF SCHOOL LUNCH STUFF AT A TIME. BOTTOM LINE IT WORKS. THANKS TO EVERYONES POST AND TO PARTSELECT FOR THE VIDEO. I HOPE THAT I NEVER HAVE TO DO IT AGAIN THOUGH.

Cracked Housing Mount - water leak

  • Customer: Richard from Chandler AZ
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 9 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
Turned off the water. Removed the maintenance cover plate on the back of the refrigerator and disconnected the tubing. Removed the tubing cover plate on back of refrigerator. Removed two screws from filter hosing mount on the inside of the refrigerator and pulled the old tubing out. Simply inserted the new tubing and mounted the housing and reconnected the tubing using plumber’s pipe compound. Then re-installed the cover plates on the back of the refrigerator, installed the filter and turned on the water. It was a very easy install.

ice despenser door would stick open and frost up to the point of of ice not coming out

  • Customer: joe from raleigh NC
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 9 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
after finding the video describing the same problem, i gave it a shot. Major problem was figuring out how to take outside trim off of the ice/water dispenser. Everything i tried did not work like the videos i had seen. Looking thru some of the posted blogs i found another way to get behind the control panel without even taking off the trim piece. i pressed a 1/8th allen wrench into the two outer holes on the bottom of the control panel which released the panel to pull out from the bottom. after that it was simple to release the three plugs from the circuit board and remove the control panel. 4 phi lips screws later the ice chute comes straight out revealing the flapper door which is held in by 2 more screws. once that assembly is out the solenoid is held by three more screws. there was nothing difficult at all about this repair once the secret was out about the first step about the three holes (use only the outer two) in the bottom of the control panel
All Instructions for the PSS26SGPASS
106-120 of 1,292