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PSS26SGPASS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

All installation instructions for PSS26SGPASS parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the refrigerator repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the PSS26SGPASS
91-105 of 1,274
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Cold water reservoir tank was cracked and spraying the interior of the fridge

  • Customer: Thomas from Waynesboro VA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 14 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
Symptom was water running out of bottom of fridge. Found water pooled up under bottom drawer. Removed (3) drawers and found water was "spraying" from the reservoir tank at back of fridge. Unboxed the new "tank" and confirmed it was the right one by holding it up to the one still in the fridge. Pulled fridge from the wall; removed the rear bottom cover panel on the back using the nutdriver. Removed the solenoid assy by taking that single hex screw out. Push down on the blue circular flange where tube supply enters solenoid, and release the tubing from the solenoid. Remove front bottom cover with phillips screwdriver. Located 2nd tubing connector below freezer (under the unit) and used the same procedure to release that tube from the coupling. Removed screws from tank on inside of fridge, after removing several shelves that were in front of it. Pulled the tubing from the old unit up and out. Discard. Got new unit and fed tubes through the hole the others came out of (back right corner of fridge) MAKE SURE THE NEW TUBES HAVE THEIR "stoppers" IN PLACE. You don't want to contaminate the new tubes with insulation or other debris. Make sure the "o" ring that seals the tubes on the inside of the fridge (supplied with new unit)and the styrofoam insulation stays in place to keep air from leaking through the holes the tubes go through. Installation of the (2) tubes is simple, simply push them into the connector on the solenoid, and the coupler under the freezer. You'll need to feed the longer tube from the back to the front left corner where this coupler is. After making the connection, I bolted the solenoid unit back to the fridge (only 1 screw) and then tested the unit to see there were no leaks before I buttoned everything up. NO LEAKS!! Put the front bottom grill back on with the (2) phillips screws, and the back bottom cover back on with the hex screws removed near the beginning. Probably took longer to write this than it did to make the repair.

Noticed pieces of broken plastic in my ice cubes.

  • Customer: G from Spring Hill FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 12 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
Of course, the first thing I did was remove the ice cube container from the freezer, and dump the ice cubes. (Conservation note: If you're in a place with water conservation rules, dump the cubes in a big pot and save them. If they melt, use the water for your house plants.) Following the advice from another DIYer, I let the container warm up before doing anything further.
Turned the container (I'll call it the "tray" from now on) over, removed the two screws holding the front cover with the Phillips screwdriver, gently pulled the cover out to disengage it from the rest of the machine.
Getting the next part out was tricky because it didn't want to release just by pushing in on the tabs on either side of the front assembly. That's where the two table knives came in, courtesy another reviewer. Be careful here not to jam or twist too energetically because the plastic housing is still quite breakable.
Just to be safe, I unscrewed one more screw that held the little bracket holding the rod with the spring on it and disengaged it. Then I discovered that I had to unclip the part that holds the auger in the front part of the assembly and slide the auger out of the way so I could pull the broken part out.
Having done all that, putting the new part in and reassembling the whole thing was pretty easy.
Slide the new part in, carefully rotate the auger back into its place, slide that assembly back into place, replace the clip holding the end of the auger, be sure the long rod engages the ice crusher gizmo, replace the screw that holds the rod in place, hook the front of the drawer back into the proper slots, rotate the cover back into position and replace and tighten the two screws.
You're done! The ice cubes you took out will probably still be frozen, so you can dump them back into the tray and slide the tray back into the freezer.
If you're cleverer than I am, maybe you won't need to do all the little things I did, but even so the whole exercise took less than 15 minutes--the ice cubes didn't even melt!

Ice maker quit making ice

  • Customer: Jeffrey from Bluefield WV
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 14 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
the first thing i did was replace the water valve at the bottom of the refrigerator but that didn't work so then i spent more time researching the problem on your site and your diagnostic said to replace the ice maker so i ordered it, took the old one out, plugged the new one in and we had ice the next day.

Main circuit board wouldn't allow the compressor to come on

  • Customer: Leonard from Keller TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 14 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
Removed old circuit board and replaced with new

Wife was cleaning regrigerator, pulled bracket out, bracket seperated in her hand, ball bearings all over the floor

  • Customer: Richard from Jacksonville FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 12 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
Removed old bracket (2 screws), ordered new bracket and installed. Discovered that the bracket had been redesigned due to numerous failures as described above.

evertthing in frige was freezing

  • Customer: justin from brownsville OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 12 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
went online to an appliance repair site and found out that this model has problems with the damper malfunctioning. went to partselect and ordered what I needed and it arrived in two days. to replace the damper you just remove the light at the top of the frige and the cover around it . the damper assembly only has 2 screws and is easy to remove.

Iced up Freezer compartment in SxS

  • Customer: Jamison from Heltonville IN
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 12 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
So I replaced a burnt out defrost heater; replaced the thermostat for good measure and STILL the freezer compartment was freezing up. WHY didn't I look more closely at the ice making system sooner!!?? Thought about it for a while and decided that it had to be that the solenoid in the water valve was NOT shutting off water flow to ice maker (overflowing the icemaker and running over & down interior of freezer compartment making an icberg).

Took off about 4-5 backcover screws with one size nut driver. Moved to a size larger driver to remove 1 screw holding on the water valve. And what some people don't realize is that you can push in the connectors (push them down) and THEN pull the water lines out as long as you're careful and someone hasn't already tugged on the waterlines with some force. You don't have to cut the lines off at the valve. Put the water lines in the new valve and put one screw back in it; then 4-5 backcover screws and you're done!!! At most 15 minutes...that is if you want to clean the condensor unit located behind the backcover (on the newer models within the last 4-6 years).

EASY!!! Do it yourself and save a BUNCH of money. If you're getting a flooded freezer compartment or icebergs created in there then check whenever you hear the icemaker drawing in water and see if water is running down the interior.....problem solved!

Ice would not feed

  • Customer: Albert from Houston TX
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 12 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
Found that the plastic end piece was broken in two where the auger attaches at the rear of the ice tray. Purchased new one and installed. Lasted about 1 day. Purchased the whole assembly and it now works great.

"plastic" retainer/bushing in rear of ice bucket damaged

  • Customer: Lawrence from Wilmington NC
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 12 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
Replaced plastic part and it immediately tore up.
Ordered entire assembly, icebucket and auger. Replaced and is working fine.

GE Profile Refrigerator Plug for Water Filter

  • Customer: Linda from Liberty NC
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 12 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
Called partselect and gave my model number for the frig. I wanted a filter plug because we did not need a frig filter. We have a whole house filter. They looked up the part, took my info, and sent it to me by UPS. It arrived fairly quickly and fit the frig perfectly. I screwed it into place immediately. It was the simplest order I have ever placed and the salesman was very pleasant and proficient. If I have more issues with my frig, I will call partselect again. Just remember to turn off the water before you start.

"Moaning Myrtle" syndrome. Refrigerator makes a whooing sound for hours at a time

  • Customer: Stephen from Spring TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 11 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
Checked the internet for reports of similar problems and concluded that it was probably the main control board. Not being particularly handy, I would never have attempted to change the board myself if I had not read the comments and instructions from people on this site. Thanks.

The job was as straight forward as others have described. The only time I had a problem was pushing in the white tab to be able to pull the old board out. That was a bit of a fiddle.

The only thing I found different was the grounding wire. On the original board, this wire was at the bottom of the board and hooked into a wire that ran into the refrigerator. On the new board, the wire was at the top of the board and had a metal loop on it. If I understand it correctly, with the new grounding system the wire is pushed into the space above the board. Then when the back plate is reattached the metal loop makes contact with it , thus grounding the refrigerator.
I chose to run the grounding wire through the original wire into the refrigerator. That meant cutting off the metal loop, slicing in an extra piece of wire to connect the grounding wire on the board to the grounding wire into the refrigerator.

I also now use a surge suppressor for the refrigerator. The “Moaning Myrtle” syndrome started after Hurricane Ike. I suspect the surge when the power was restored damaged the control board. And as so many people seem to have this “Moaning Myrtle” problem, I suspect the control board has little or no surge protection.

fridge wouldn't cool, frozen food thawed

  • Customer: John from Milford UT
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 13 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
First my wife and i took the panel off the back, unscrewed the old mainboard, unplugged all the switches from it and prayed that the new one would work. We were without a fridge for 2 weeks beginning 2 days before Christmas!!!!! Gingerly, we put the new board in place, screwed it into the fridge, connected the switches, attached the ground wire, and held our breath as we plugged it back in. Within seconds, the familiar sound of water filling the icemaker was hear and there were cheers all around!!!

Solenoid had become rusted/crank door wouldn't close

  • Customer: William M from Ft Myers FL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 12 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
First, had to use punch tool to pop out electronic face panel. Face unit still connnect via wires. Use painters tape to hold against refrig. Next, Remove ice/water dispenser and also tape to door. This will give you access to solenoid. Remove the 3 screws holding it in place and unplug fsolenoid from Face Panel. Screw new solenoid and place and connnect to Panel. Goood idea is to unplug regrig. while doing this and put a little WD-30 on shaft of solenoid. May want to order new screws, could be rusty, that hold solenoid in place. Sounds a bit complicated but not that bad a job. You'll save over$100 over GE's service.

freezer coils not thawing and fridge getting warm.

  • Customer: Gerald from Ada MI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 11 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
Replacing the heater is very easy. Remove the wire racks and the two lower rack bracket screws. Remove the two screws to the back panel, unclip the ground wire and remove the panel. Two screws hold he heater on and two wires for the connection.
However, this did not solve my problem. The story is this. The fridge was getting warm because the coils were freezing over. I called the local repair guys "poncho and lefty" and they came out and replace the themostat and charged me $150. It still froze over a week later. They came back and said it must be the circuit board and charged me just for the $125 part. Nope, it still froze over in a week. So I thought I would take things into my own hands and tell poncho and left to hit the trail. I then ordered a new heater because the old one looked bad even though it checked out okay with an ohm meter. Unfortunately, that didn't solve the problem either. The last thing is to replace are the temp sensors. But before I ordered anything I submitted my problem to a "fix it" forum and someone suggested to check the part number of the themostat that was put in. This turned out to be a brilliant observation. It seems poncho and lefty replace the thermostate with one that is used with a timer. This fridge has the timer built into the circuit board and has a very different temp range than the one they replace it with. Their first clue should have been that the wires were a different color than the one they were replacing and that the part number was totally different than the one they took out. So I ordered a new thermostat and the three temp sensors and replace all of this and the unit works as good as new. The forum also told me that the bullet shaped temp sensor were faulty and should all be replaced, which I did.
Now I have all new parts, so it should be good to go until the compressor takes a nose dive. Hopefully, that will not be for 5 or 6 more years.

Light would not work when I opened door.

  • Customer: joe from spartanburg SC
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 11 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
I lifted the old switch with a flat screwdriver, attached wires, and popped into place. Saved 80 bucks for a repair call.
All Instructions for the PSS26SGPASS
91-105 of 1,274