PSS25SGNABS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Adding a small amount of water to the filter would resolve the problem for a week or two. So, I thought this was an issue with the filter and decided to try the bypass cap to help zero in on the problem. The bypass cap had no instructions concerning the need for O ring so it was trial and error. The O ring was not needed. After installation of the bypass cap, no water flow resulted and I had to replace the filter. Intermittent problem continues.

Watched online video instructions. Turned off water supply.Unplugged unit from power supply. Removed back panel with nutdriver.Unplugged electrical connections to valve.Released bottom lines by depressing clips.Used open-end wrench to remove water supply line on top.Used nut driver to remove water valve from inside wall.Used exacto knife and cut off a portion of old 5/16"line.Then used a splice fitting to attach a new section of tube.Press fitted lower lnes into bottom of valve and re-attached electrical connectors on backside. Then bolted valve back to side wall with nutdriver. Re-installed water supply line on top with open end wrench.Turned on water supply. Checked for leaks. Tested water dispenser. Works fine.Screwed back cover in place with nutdriver.Checked couple hours later and ice maker made ice. Everything ok!

Part select was great. I entered the model number and was able to locate a list of problems associated with my refrigerator. I was able to view a repair video, courtesy of part select. I followed the instructions and the repair was simple. The hard part was trying to remember how everything went back together. I unplugged the unit and removed the freezer racks. I then unscrewed the back panel within the unit. I then placed an old towel inside the unit and used a hair dryer to melt the ice build up inside. I also removed the light bulb and then removed ice maker. I then located the old defrost thermostat and replaced it as demonstrated in the video. I then located temp sensor and replaced it. It took longer trying to secure the rear panels than the actual repair. My mistake was I had secured the ice maker unit before securing the fan panel. I would secure the large panel first, then followed by the light bulb/fan panel. The ice maker should go in last. It has been 8 days since the repair and it still working! The total cost was $27.

I simply took out the old board as per video instructions. very easy . unplug 6 or seven connectors and ground wire slap in new board and reconnect . even a cave man can do it.

After watching some videos on U tube on how to check the mother board, I did some checking and found out that all the voltages and resistances were OK, so I ordered the fan, the thermistor and a temperature sensor.I got the parts really quick, just a couple of days.After I got the parts I watched the videos suggested in the parts select web page, and I was able to install everything without problems.Now my fridge is working fine, with excellent cooling.

I am an 80-year old female, and though I do minor repairs around the house, this is the first on a refrigerator part. The instruction film was most helpful. I had a lot of trouble getting the hard plastic section out of the front. It took me 3 hours, and all was working well, but the last few days, the ice comes out mostly crushed, rather than cubed. I also have a problem of overfill in the ice cube trays, causing the drippings to freeze, inhibiting the auger. Any suggestions?

removed back panel from freezer. located thermostat removed and replaced thermostat put panel and all baskets back into freezer and plugged fridge back in. Works perfect problem solved

Based on the site, I figured the problem was the electronics board or the defrost sensor. After some multimeter work, I was pretty sure that it was the board; however, the defrost sensor was inexpensive so I bought both. I watched the videos, and the work was pretty much the way it was described. No problems or unforeseen issues.

Removed three phillips head screws, I used a butter knife vice a flat head screw driver to slip between the housing and turn unit, the knife is thinner. Left hand threads on the holding nut turn off. Take off turning fingers, place in order. To ensure the problem does not happen again do not buy any more G E products. This is the fourth time I had to fix this problem in three years. The whole ice making system is poorly designed.

Things fall out of my refrigerator frequently thus the broken lite switch. Thought tape would solve until new part arrived. Thank goodness part came the next day as even with tape on and door close and light bulbs removed fridge read door as open and would not cool It is programmed not to run with door open. Within 24 hours part was delivered, unbelievable . It was that fast. Easy insertion and plugged in to the wiring and my refridge once more recognized the door was shut and began cooling. Thanks again

I used the Installation Instructions on your web page and it was easy.

killed power-gently pried out old switch using two screw drivers-replaced faulty switch-and tested OK.

I used the repair video supplied on line. I followed it step by step and the repair was made quickly and easily. Best of all I saved the expensive cost of a repairman.

Gentlemen,

Many thanks for the help in repairing my GE refrigerator. From the web site and videos, I determined the problem with the flapper on my ice maker was a bad solenoid. I ordered the part from you then followed the step by step instructions to install it. It made what seemed to be an intimidating job rather easy.

Thanks again,

Gary Schafer

Remove the shelves then remove the back by removing the two screws at the top of the panel. Locate the temperature sensor on top of the coil. Cut the wires and replace with the new one. Use wire nuts and electrical tape to reconnect the wires.