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Models > PLDB998CC0 > Instructions

PLDB998CC0 Frigidaire Dishwasher - Instructions

All installation instructions for PLDB998CC0 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dishwasher repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the PLDB998CC0
61-75 of 442
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My dishwasher was leaking

  • Customer: Vincent from CORAM, NY
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
This was too easy. I pulled out the bottom rack, spread apart the two clips which are at the bottom of the spray arm with my fingers and pulled out the old broken spray arm. The damage was visible. Then I took the new spray arm ( which looked different but still fit nicely) and gently pushed it into place. Done!

Replaced the Drain Pump

  • Customer: Kyle from Jackson, WI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 10 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
Unplugged the dishwasher and pulled it out. Tipped it down on its side. Removed the old and replaced the new. Re-installed and replugged it. Ran a test. Checked for leaks.

Latch broken and door would not lock

  • Customer: Jay from Chesapeake, VA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
Remove and replace the door gasket. Removed the 6 phillips head screws holding the top panel cover. This gives access to the latch assembly. Remove the two screw holding the latch in place. I removed the four wires one at a time with needle nose pliers and plugged them on the right spade of the new latch assembly. This assures getting them in the correct position. I then mounted the latch with the two screws and installed the cover with the 6 screws. Job done, piece of cake.

A hole in the dishwasher dicharge hose.

  • Customer: Lee from Columbus, OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 17 of 38 people found this instruction helpful
I had to remove the dishwasher from under the counter, flip it on it's side to gain access to the discharge hose attachment point, removeit, remove the other end of the hose from the sink-side and replace the hose. The sink-end of the hose has a 'collar' that must be cut to fit the fitting on the sink.

Bottom spray arm got stuck and melted

  • Customer: Thomas from Ebensburg, PA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the bottom dish rack to gain access to the spray arm. I proceeded by pulling straight up on the bottom spray arm, it disconnected with gentle force. The replacement part was not identical, so I determined that it would work by inspecting hole patterns and heat shield configuration. Then I gently pushed the new spray arm onto the water supply tube making sure that the spray arm snapped into place. Due to extremely fast ground shipping (less than 20hrs from order to my door) the repair was done within 24 hrs! Boy...was my wife pleased!

Water coming out of motor/motor really loud noise

  • Customer: David from Cragford, AL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Took the dishwasher out removed the two screws and the part holding the motor in and removed the motor. Received the parts, places o'rings on the motor, which came with the kit, even though I ordered the two o'rings. Replaced the motor, installed the part that holds the motor and tightened the screws. Cut the old connector off the dishwasher and replaced it with a new connector that came with the kit. Reinstalled the dishwasher, works great. Thanks for your Site.

Dishwasher was leaking out of small gold nut

  • Customer: Emily from Kyle, TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers
  • 7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
The nut was split down one side, so I first tried to sauder the nut back together. Saudering never goes well for me anyway, but I couldn't get a good enough seal around the nut to make it fit tightly. Then I had to cut off the clear plastic shield to get down in there, just before realizing you could just pull the white wire firmly and it would come loose from the nut. All I had to do then was unscrew the original nut, and screw on the new nut. Then, luckily I had mistakenly ordered an extra clear plastic shield and could replace the one I had previously cut. Dishwasher now runs like a charm!

rack had worn rust spots on tines

  • Customer: Gregory from Port St Lucie, FL
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 7 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
replaced with new lower rack, out with the old, in with the new! Shipping was great new part arrived in 2 days! Great service, and will use again for all parts needed in the future, and will tell everyone about this site! Thanks a bunch!

Interior bottom door gasket seal broken

  • Customer: Philip from Freehold, NJ
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
Lower the door and remove bottom dish tray. Feel with fingers the area where gasket will be pulled from (just below bottom door edge) Pull old gasket from door edge into direction of inside dishwasher. Insert new one in same orientation as old (small slit to right side). New gasket strip will seat into door bottom.

bottem door gasket was shot and leaked

  • Customer: Christine from Marne, MI
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
Took off front door panel with two screws. Found the part in the door. took it out and slide the new part in. My husband screwed the screws while I held the door in place. If I had known it was so easy to do I would have done it as soon as I got the part but I waited for my husbands help.

dishwasher wouldn't drain

  • Customer: louis from greenville, MI
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
pulled DW out from under counter. drained water from unit. laid DW on its side. removed 5 screws from unit 2 to remove drain motor and three to remove bracket. used adj pliers to remove spring clamp and screwdriver to remove other clamp. to install i did the reverse

large holes in the bottom of the basket where pieces of plastic kept breaking off

  • Customer: Lauren from Peabody, MA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
I replaced the basket. No tools necessary. New basket seems sturdier than original. Very satisfied with my purchase.

Both springs and links on door broken.

  • Customer: Harry from Magnolia, AR
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
Previous self-repair instructions provided on this site were very helpful. I started by removing items from under the sink and inspecting drainage and water hoses of the dishwasher to determine amount of "play" for sliding the washer out. Next, remove the two screws that secure the washer under the top of the counter. Then, remove the kickplate and barrier at the bottom. The washer then slid easily out far enough to explose the spring connector arms. I removed the old springs from the floor and the pieces of the old links (one link was ok, but I saved it for a spare). I installed the links and springs on both sides and connected to the first hole. By the way, the hole in the lower frame relatively close behind link is NOT the spring connection hole. There are a series of holes farther back. After testing the door and re-hooking the springs twice,I decided that the fourth hole gave the tension that I wanted. Now the door will come up about half way on its own, but will stay fully open when pulling out the empty bottom basket. Slide the washer back under the counter, being careful not to catch the insulation at the top and sides of the washer. Line up the top screw holes and install the screws. Install the barrier panel and kickplate at the bottom. I had to "fiddle" with the kick plate and barrier panel a little to get it right because I did not play close attention when removing them. I probably saved $100 by doing it myself. My wife said "It's just like new!"

Dishwasher leaked at the bottom of the door

  • Customer: Danise from Brentwood, TN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed two screws that held the door panel on. Then I pulled out the old gasket, inserted the new one, replaced the door and screws and it was done! We tested the dishwasher and no more leaks!

Dishwasher leaks

  • Customer: Gardner from Old Saybrook, CT
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 8 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
First point of leakage was the door. Turns out that a gasket at the bottom of the door functions as a wave trap. As the bottom sprayer spins it sprays against the door and creates a small wave of water this gasket was starting to disintegrate, it was letting water surge over the small tray at the doors bottom. Easy to replace just pull down and remove press fit on inside door bottom. Only when this was replaced did I find the real leak but not until I guessed at the tub seal as the leak. Very hard to see where the water really comes from! Turns out it was not the tub seal but a clip that holds the heater element got smashed down from a dropped dish rack at some earlier time and this caused the heat to increase at the clip and eventually heat the clip to extent it melted the tub directly under it. JB Weld to the rescue and we have a waterproof tub again. Well almost! The tub gasket resisted my best efforts to seat correctly and thus required a new tub gasket, still hard to seat but after 2-3 attempts we have a winner. Total cost about 50 bucks vs. 6-700 for a new unit. Wife is happy!!
All Instructions for the PLDB998CC0
61-75 of 442