Models > PLD4375RFC3 > Instructions

PLD4375RFC3 Frigidaire Dishwasher - Instructions

All installation instructions for PLD4375RFC3 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dishwasher repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the PLD4375RFC3
46-60 of 395
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Door leaked water

  • Customer: Ralph from Wisconsin Rapids WI
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
The repair went very easy. Just opened the door , and pulled out the worn seal. Lined up the new seal and carefullly pushed new seal into place. Seal pushed in very smooth.

the valve stuck closed - no water would enter the machine

  • Customer: Richard from Fox River Grove IL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Wrench set
  • 6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
remove vanity panel
disconnect copper supply line from valve
remove valve mounting screws
rotate valve to access hose clamp
loosen clamp and slide up rubber tubing about 2 inches
pull hose off barbed fitting and remove old valve
reverse order with new valve

Dishwasher was leaking out of small gold nut

  • Customer: Emily from Kyle TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
The nut was split down one side, so I first tried to sauder the nut back together. Saudering never goes well for me anyway, but I couldn't get a good enough seal around the nut to make it fit tightly. Then I had to cut off the clear plastic shield to get down in there, just before realizing you could just pull the white wire firmly and it would come loose from the nut. All I had to do then was unscrew the original nut, and screw on the new nut. Then, luckily I had mistakenly ordered an extra clear plastic shield and could replace the one I had previously cut. Dishwasher now runs like a charm!

Heating element went out

  • Customer: Jane from Port Charlotte FL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 8 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the clamp holding it to the floor and
removed the c-clips holding element underneath
and put new one in. Hard part was figuring out
what was holding the element but since I still
had the schematic drawing we figured it out.
Saved a bunch on a repairman. After watching
my friend install the new element I could probably
do it myself next time.

Replace sump gasket

  • Customer: Greg from Rockwall TX
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 8 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
#1 rule, make sure you valve off the water before removing any hoses. Remove wire trays inside dishwasher and then pull out dishwasher far enough to disconnect water line and power cord. Remove center piece and screen covering sump inside the dishwasher. Turn dishwasher on its side and remove hoses to sump and pump. Disconnect power to sump pump. Loosen retaining nuts that secure the sump and remove. Replace old gasket on sump with new. Turn dishwasher upright. Be careful with placement of new gasket when reinserting sump so that the gasket doesn't come out of position and the sump is centered properly. Secure with retaining nuts from bottom. Reconnect power connector and hoses to sump. Pour enough water into the dishwasher to verify gasket doesn't leak... look with flashlight under dishwasher for signs of water dripping from sump. Reinstall screen and centerpiece in sump inside the dishwasher. Reconnect water line and power cord. Run through wash cycle while monitoring for leaks under dishwasher. Reinstall wire trays.

Piece of cake as long as you get the gasket installed properly and the sump centered correctly... do not overtighten the retaining nuts or it may force the gasket out of position when the screen is secure with the center locking piece over the sump.

bottem door gasket was shot and leaked

  • Customer: Christine from Marne MI
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Took off front door panel with two screws. Found the part in the door. took it out and slide the new part in. My husband screwed the screws while I held the door in place. If I had known it was so easy to do I would have done it as soon as I got the part but I waited for my husbands help.

Dishwasher leaked at the bottom of the door

  • Customer: Danise from Brentwood TN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed two screws that held the door panel on. Then I pulled out the old gasket, inserted the new one, replaced the door and screws and it was done! We tested the dishwasher and no more leaks!

Dishwasher would not drain every time

  • Customer: John from Virginia Beach VA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
First turn the power off! If you have water in the tub, use something like a wet/dry shop vac to drain as much water out as possible. Removing the strainers will help get more out. To remove the smaller horseshoe shaped strainer, pull up and towards the handle. The sprayer is then removed by rotating the base of it slightly. Then you can remove the large strainer. The more water you get out the better! Then remove the kick panel. You will see the drain pump right in front of you with a white and a purple wire. Disconnect the wires by pulling their tabs towards you, and move them out of the way. With a screwdriver, loosen the worm clamp on top of the pump that connects the drain line to the pump. Have a towel handy, even if you got all of the water out, there will still be some in the line. Then take a pair of pliars (long nose may work best, or small channel locks) and compress the clamp on the black hose behind the pump, moving the clamp towards the center of the hose. The pump should now move a little. Pulling the pump towards you, wiggle slightly to try to remove the pump from its support, preferably without breaking the tabs, but keeping them intact is not critical if you are replacing the pump. More water may come out at this point, so be prepaired. Put the new pump in by reversing the process, making sure you do not break the support tabs. Slide the compression clamp into place. Reconnect and tighten the drain line, reconnect the white and purple wires. Dry your work area carefully so you can spot any leaks. Apply power, and run a rinse cycle, watching for leaks. If everything looks ok, kill the power again and reattach the kick plate. Turn power back on one last time, and enjoy your dishwasher again!

The small "nubs" on the assembly had worn off.

  • Customer: Peggy from Minerva OH
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
After several years of use and cleaning the small "nubs" that held the locking peice on the assembly under the jet arm had worn off. This allowed the whole thing to spin and the dishes weren't getting clean. Finding the part on the site was easy, it arrived amazingly fast and all is up and working great. I have used Parts Select 2 or 3 times in the past and have always had the same great results. Saved me a bunch in repair bills. Thanks

Water leak behind kick-plate

  • Customer: Larry from EDWARDS CO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 6 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Water had been dripping for quite some time causing the floor boards to warp and buckle causing the door to no longer align. Water drip could be seen coming from the motor area. Ordered the O rings and replaced. Get Motor & Pump schematic Pub to visualize how parts fit together. I recommend getting motor (~$90)which comes with O rings (~$50 for O rings alone) because, as it turns out, the leak was in motor. I will post repair process in separate posting.

Dishwasher leaked sometimes depending on how I loaded it.

  • Customer: Raymond from San Jose CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
If you are getting intermittent leaks especially when you put a pot lid up front, it’s probably just the door gasket. And this was the easiest project I’ve tackled as a homeowner since buying the place 20 years ago. I read the other stories and I think the suggestion I choose to follow is not the best thing to do. So, read passed where I cut the gasket. I used needle nose pliers to grab the bottom edge of the old gasket which then pulled out by hand with almost no effort. I used the old gasket to measure the new gasket as recommended in one of the other stories, and cut it. DON"T DO THIS. The gasket is very soft foam rubber. As you push it in (I just used my fingers), it will get longer as you push it in. I put it in the first time (took about a minute if that long) and even though I cut it to the same length as the old one, it was too long. Obviously I figured I did something wrong. So, I took it out and measured it again. Nope, same-same. So, I put in a second time, careful not to stretch it, and this time it was now too short. So, I recommend that you just establish the bottom edge 90 degree angle seat and try not to stretch it as you work your way around the seam. It should fit just find, maybe with a little adjustment back or forth, but without cutting it at all. By the way, the half inch I cut off at the recommendation of one of the other reviews did not ruin it. It works just fine. So you can cut it if you want I suppose. But that half inch I cut off was what I was short when I was carful not to stretch it.

Appliance read out "err", would not go on

  • Customer: Rick from Ozark MO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 13 of 32 people found this instruction helpful
It would sometimes work, which led me to believe it was a switch. Looked on line and found the mail switch to go on was in the latch. I took it apart, 6 screws, wiggled the switch and it went on. So I found the door switch to be bad. It was very simple to change the switch.

Interior bottom door gasket seal broken

  • Customer: Philip from Freehold NJ
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
Lower the door and remove bottom dish tray. Feel with fingers the area where gasket will be pulled from (just below bottom door edge) Pull old gasket from door edge into direction of inside dishwasher. Insert new one in same orientation as old (small slit to right side). New gasket strip will seat into door bottom.

arm upper spray unit fell off

  • Customer: Randall from Mather CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
Easiest repair ever. Part came quickly & came fully assembled. Just screwed the part on by hand and it has worked like new ever since. The original part is 3 separate pieces but the new part was all in one & fit perfectly.

Broken door on dispenser

  • Customer: Justin from Miami FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
The only difficultpart was to figure out how to remove the stainless cover from the door. Seems it slides upwards after screws are removed. After that it is self explainatory and goes back together in 5 minutes.
All Instructions for the PLD4375RFC3
46-60 of 395