PLD2855RFC1 Frigidaire Dishwasher - Instructions

Disconnect from power
Unscrewed 4 phillips screws from top of outer door.
Unscrewed 2 screws each siide of door.
Lower outer door section drops away.
Note wiring sequence on dispenser, then disconnect wires.
Unscrew 6 screws on dispenser and lift dispenser out.

Place new dispenser in place (note orientation), ann fasten in place with screws, remembering to replace wire retainer on left lower screw.
Reconnect wires to dispenser correctly.
Slide lower outer door over tabs and secure with the 4 side screws.
Ensure lower door is up under control panel and secure with the 4 top screws.

Fill dispenser with detergent, reconnect power and test run while enjoying a cup of tea in celebration of a job well done..

simple repair..woke up one morning and after the dishwasher cycled, I noticed the upper spray arm laying on the top tray.
ordered new one from site, was delivered with-in 2 days ( with standard shipping) all 1 piece, took seriously 5 seconds to unscrew by hand and replace!

See posting under O rings. Get schematic Motor & Pump pg. 8 from pub # 5995487674. Steps: 1) run cycle so most water is pumped out of dishwasher 2) remove front cover to reduce weight of door; 3) disconnect electric plug, hot water hose [NOTE: be prepared for some water from hose], and waste tube all usually found under sink area; 4) remove 2 screws at top of front panel; 5) lower leveling feet to allow best clearance; 6) put towels under front feet to protect floor and slide unit out from under counter; 7) place heavy blanket next to unit to protect floor and tip unit over on its side; 8) disconnect electric plug from motor and remove metal spring clip holding motor (2 torx screws) and pull clip off motor; 9)gently rock motor while lifting to remove from unit [NOTE position of motor for reassembly]; 10) put thin coat of silicon on O rings and place on new motor [look at old motor to make sure O rings are in proper slots; 11) line up motor and gently push new motor back into position; 12) reverse disassemble steps above. 13) run dishwasher through fastest cycle to check for leaks.

Thought the problem was a faulty door gasket (there was a gap in the middle of it) so I ordered new(new one had a gap also) replaced it anyway - maybe it was worn out? Still leaked! Had to sit and stare at it and cycle it through. finally realized the spray arm had a hole in the end that was spraying directly into the gap in the door gasket. Hot glued the hole and it stopped so I bought a new spray arm - no leaky!

It took less than a minute to remove the old bottom door gasket - it pulls right out. You wouldn't think the part looks the way it does (a 1.5 inch wide plastic strip that runs the length of the door with rubber gaskets on both ends) but have faith. Trust the diagram/picture - it is the correct part and will fix the leak. The new gasket arrived within a couple days of ordering and was simple to install - no tools. It slides into place in less than a minute and is held in by friction. Problem solved and no more leaks. For under $12 (parts and shipping) I had my dishwasher fixed. A service call by itself would have run $75 - just for someone to show up at the house, and then probably another $50 for parts and labor to install. My wife made the comment "Even I could have fixed that". A very simple and easy repair - you can do it!!!

Unplugged dishwasher, pulled it out. Unclamped hose and unscrewed water source to inlet valve, removed wiring harness, unscrewed bracket and reinstalled new valve. Now have a functioning dishwasher.

My friend bought a used dishwasher at a garage sale, the previous owner had thrown away the drain hose because it was "nasty" they said....remember it could have been cleaned. When I went to install it, I removed the old washer, and discovered that the old hose would not fit on the replacement dishwasher. I went to the local repair shop, armed with the model and serial #'s. they searched and searched their books and could not find the hose part number. they said "good luck" when I left...I went home and looked up the model on your web site, ordered the hose, and in 3 days had the dishwasher installed and running in about 30 minutes...thanks for prompt shipping.. I couldn't believe it arrived so soon...Mowerman

Putting the new pump in place to test it only took about five minutes. The lower, front, kick-plate panel was already off because I had removed it to figure out what was so loud. The steps after that were:

- Unplugged it and the disposal under the sink (just in case)
- Pulled the wires out of the bottom front of the drain pump
- With a Philips screw driver I loosened the front hose clamp and pulled off the hose
- With the pliers I pinched the back hose clamp and pulled off the hose
- Twisted the pump off of its soft plastic bracket

To put the new one on I reversed the process.

Once it was in place and before I put the panel back on, I plugged in the dishwasher and started a cycle.


The pump was quiet but the person who installed the dishwasher in the first place had the drain hose resting on a spring. When the pump ran it resonated through the spring making a pretty loud noise.

So I unplugged it again, disconnected the hose, fed it under the spring along the floor and then reconnected it. When I plugged it back in and tested it, things were much quieter.

With everything in place I put the panel back on and was finished.

Note: I have worked on dishwashers before and most of the time they have insulation behind the kick-plate panel to quiet them, but this one didn’t. I will probably add that some time later.

removed the remnants of the old wheels and popped the new ones on....simple

Got to say, I was pretty amazed that I received my order the following day! You guys are wonderful!

Removed bottom plate and heating element brass nuts. Disconnected heating element. Connected new one then replaced brass nuts. Put bottom plate back on. Very easy.

Alighned the bracket and pushed in.

One Roller detatched and hit the heat coil and melted. Both of the Spring Linkages borke. It's was quite obvious they were made not to last long. My Husband did the repairs. Thank you for asking.

The Spray arm and the support had come off during operation and subsequently melted on the heating element. This was our fault, as a knife had slipped through the lower dish-rack and acted as a ramp to launch the spray arm as it came around. The support was a simple 1/4 turn counter-clockwise until it clicked into place, drop the strainer basket into position around the support, them push the spray arm into place until the catches snap over the retaining ring molded into the support. All told, about 10 minutes, max.

First unplug the unit.

Second remove the kickplate. When you do this pay attention to the position of the insulation panel. It is confusing as to how it is put back together. Simple if you see how it comes apart.

Third unsrew the screws that hold dishwasher in palce under the counter top.

Genly pull the appliance from under the counter top. Understand the copper piping connected to the unit for water will only allow you to pull it out a few inches. Otherwise you would have to turn off and disconnect the water supply.

Reinstall the plastic clipsand springs. There are several holes in the frame of the dishwasher where the springs will attach. The further back you attach them, the more tension will be applied to the springs. This part of the operation is somewhat trying as you have limited visibility and access.

When springs and clips are installed, test door, slide unit back in place, reattach kickplate and insulation panel and then reattach to countertop.

All in all relatively simple and doable. If I had any problem it wasnot paying attention to how the insulation panel and kickplate came apart. No big deal.

Shut off power to the unit. Removed the screws located along the inside edge of the door, then lifted up slightly on the entire front panel to loosen it from the slotted guides. Be ready to brace the door as there are still some electrical connections that do not need removal to finish the job. Removed two screws that hold the latch assembly in place, leaving the four electrical leads in place (this takes a special screwdriver but I had an attachment with my socket set). Removed the leads one at a time and immediately placed them on the corresponding posts on the new latch (this was to make sure I got the right lead in the right spot). Once all leads were in place, reattached the latch assembly to the inside of the door. The only tricky part was getting the door lined up with the guides and sliding it back into its seated position. That took two people, but only a few tries and it fit. Put the screws back on, turn power back on. Done.