Models > PLD2855RFC1 > Instructions

PLD2855RFC1 Frigidaire Dishwasher - Instructions

All installation instructions for PLD2855RFC1 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dishwasher repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the PLD2855RFC1
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The spray arm would fall off during the washing cycle.

  • Customer: Roy from Worcester MA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 446 of 450 people found this instruction helpful
Repair was simple. I unscrewed the old grommet which held the old spray arm and screwed-on the new one. About 30 seconds was required. Other people having this problem should note that the spray-arm is made of three pieces which are inseparable when the arm is new. The arm is sold in this form. However, when your machine is having the problem that the arm falls off, the three pieces become separate. When you want to replace the spray arm, only one new part needs to be ordered because this part encompases all three components.

Leak in the water inlet valve/solinoid

  • Customer: Mickey from Ooltewah TN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 111 of 120 people found this instruction helpful
1. Shut off water supply.
2. Removed inlet water hose where it connects to the vavle assembly.
3. Removed the two bracket screws holding the assembly to the frame, and detached the electrical connection from the solinoid.
4. Removed the inlet hose adapter connection from old valve and installed into new valve.
5. Attached electrical connection to new valve solinoid.
6. Remounted assembly to the frame.
7. Re-attached the inlet water hose to the hose adapter connection on the valve.
8. Turned on the water, washed some dishes.

Bottom Door Seal fell apart and started leaking.

  • Customer: Scott from Flowood MS
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 75 of 85 people found this instruction helpful
First I opened the door all the way. Second I reached down to the bottom gasket then grabed it on the right end of the seal that is on the right side of the door. Then I pulled the end outward from the bottom of the door toward the heater coil in the bottom of the washer. It came out real easy. You see it just snaps into a little plastic groove under the door. I then cleaned up the area for food and soap particules. I then placed the new gasket in place by lining up the notch toward the right end with the piece of plastic that encloses the right end of the plastic notch on the bottom right end of the door. Then push it in untill it stops going into the notch. It snaps in but does not make a snaping sound. It just won't go in no more.

dishwasher was leaking water

  • Customer: Charles from Milton FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 59 of 71 people found this instruction helpful
I removed old tub gasket, which the door presses against to make a seal, and put the new one in. Flat tip screwdriver was used to gently press gasket in.

Upper spray arm had been "blowing off" during wash cycle.

  • Customer: Mary from Alexandria VA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 53 of 61 people found this instruction helpful
Unscrewed retaining ring, replaced unit = piece of cake

Water leaking under the dishwasher

  • Customer: Dennis from Tryon NC
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 40 of 42 people found this instruction helpful
I looked under and found that 2 brass nuts that secured the heater element through the base housing of the dishwasher has split down each side of the nut and no longer was tight enough to keep water from leaking around either end of the heater element. I powered down the dishwasher at the circuit breaker and then reached under the dishwasher and pulled away the 2 wires that were attached to each side of the heater element. I removed the two nuts and replaced them with the parts I ordered from partselect.com. I then put the appropriate wires back at the end of the heater element and ran the dishwasher to check for leaks. No leaks... it was fixed.

One of the door tension springs and related plastic clip failed causing door to open under full weight

  • Customer: Michael from Redmond WA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 38 of 42 people found this instruction helpful
Per the recommendation from PartSelect.com, I purchased 2 new springs and 2 new clips - one set for each side. With the bottom cover plate removed below the door, I removed the remaining spring and clip and installed the 2 new springs and clips by hand. The door now opens with resistance and won't even stay completely opened unless the lower dishwasher tray is rolled out on it. it's like new.
This is the second repair to this dishwasher. Last year I replaced the door latch that had broken with a replacement purchased from partselect.com. That repair was also quite easy.
PartSelect's full part brochures by model made identifying the needed parts simple, and the replacement a breeze.
I even repaired my refrigerator ice maker a couple months ago after purchasing a new control module, and saving both a service fee and the probable full price for a new ice maker.
I've repaired my electric clothes dryer too, and hadn't even thought about all the repairs I'd done thanks to this website, until I told the story of my dishwasher.
I've probably saved $1000 already. Wow!
I love this site.

not cleaning, spray arms not working

  • Customer: Jeff from Lancaster PA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 41 of 52 people found this instruction helpful
The hardest part was disconnecting the dishwasher. the motor is located on the bottom so after pulling it out and laying it down on the front of the machine the motor unplugs and 2 screws hold it in place.The new motor comes with "O" rings so I applied a little grease and put it back together. 2 minutes to replace motor, 15 minutes to disconnect water and electric, 15 to reconnect.

Dish washer would not drain

  • Customer: Phillip Foster from Cleveland OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 36 of 42 people found this instruction helpful
Repair was easy I removed the old drain pump by removing 1 clips with pliar & 1 band with a screw driver and replace the drain pump with the new one, I replace clip and the band. replace drain hose tighten down the band. I had to adjust the drain pump because it seem to be a little loud then the one I had to replace , now it works !

Dishwasher was leaking

  • Customer: Nejla from Chicago IL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 33 of 37 people found this instruction helpful
The strip comes right out when you pull, there is a space to grip it on the left and pull it out. The notch goes on the right side when you put it back in; it only goes in one way. I didn't get it all the way in the first time and closed the door; the gasket came right out. A clear sign that I had done something wrong! So I put it in again, this time pushing it as far as it would go. It went all the way in and stayed. It doesn't click or anything, but you can kind of feel when the notches all connect. Also, it doesn't slide right out again.... very easy!

Water in dishwasher did not heat up. Dishes came out dirty and greasy. Some fungus started to grow in dishwasher.

  • Customer: Ewout from Bozeman MT
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 30 of 34 people found this instruction helpful
Unplugged the dishwasher. Closed and disconnected the water supply. Removed two screws that attached the dishwasher to the countertop. Pulled the dishwasher out from underneath the countertop. Laid the dishwasher on its side to access the bottom. The high limit thermostat had shorted out and showed signs of electrical burn. I removed the high limit thermostat by unscrewing the single screw that holds it in place. I then pulled the two electrical terminals off the high limit thermostat . One terminal (i.e. small electrical plug connecting electrical wire to high limit thermostat) was burned badly. I cut it off the wire and attached a generic terminal bought at local hardware store (six for $3). The other terminal was fine. I plugged the new high limit thermostat in and attached it with the single screw to the dish washer. Put the dishwasher back in place. Test ran dish washer and dishes came out shiny, clean and dry. Done.

upper spray arm retainer nut failed

  • Customer: Michael from Hillsdale NJ
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 26 of 27 people found this instruction helpful
simple repair..woke up one morning and after the dishwasher cycled, I noticed the upper spray arm laying on the top tray.
ordered new one from site, was delivered with-in 2 days ( with standard shipping) all 1 piece, took seriously 5 seconds to unscrew by hand and replace!

The drain pump was still working but was making a lot of noise

  • Customer: Michael from Clayton CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 24 of 28 people found this instruction helpful
Putting the new pump in place to test it only took about five minutes. The lower, front, kick-plate panel was already off because I had removed it to figure out what was so loud. The steps after that were:

- Unplugged it and the disposal under the sink (just in case)
- Pulled the wires out of the bottom front of the drain pump
- With a Philips screw driver I loosened the front hose clamp and pulled off the hose
- With the pliers I pinched the back hose clamp and pulled off the hose
- Twisted the pump off of its soft plastic bracket

To put the new one on I reversed the process.

Once it was in place and before I put the panel back on, I plugged in the dishwasher and started a cycle.


The pump was quiet but the person who installed the dishwasher in the first place had the drain hose resting on a spring. When the pump ran it resonated through the spring making a pretty loud noise.

So I unplugged it again, disconnected the hose, fed it under the spring along the floor and then reconnected it. When I plugged it back in and tested it, things were much quieter.

With everything in place I put the panel back on and was finished.

Note: I have worked on dishwashers before and most of the time they have insulation behind the kick-plate panel to quiet them, but this one didn’t. I will probably add that some time later.

Door would drop when opened....no tension on springs

  • Customer: Richard from Voluntown CT
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 22 of 24 people found this instruction helpful
First unplug the unit.

Second remove the kickplate. When you do this pay attention to the position of the insulation panel. It is confusing as to how it is put back together. Simple if you see how it comes apart.

Third unsrew the screws that hold dishwasher in palce under the counter top.

Genly pull the appliance from under the counter top. Understand the copper piping connected to the unit for water will only allow you to pull it out a few inches. Otherwise you would have to turn off and disconnect the water supply.

Reinstall the plastic clipsand springs. There are several holes in the frame of the dishwasher where the springs will attach. The further back you attach them, the more tension will be applied to the springs. This part of the operation is somewhat trying as you have limited visibility and access.

When springs and clips are installed, test door, slide unit back in place, reattach kickplate and insulation panel and then reattach to countertop.

All in all relatively simple and doable. If I had any problem it wasnot paying attention to how the insulation panel and kickplate came apart. No big deal.

Water leak behind kick-plate

  • Customer: Larry from EDWARDS CO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 25 of 35 people found this instruction helpful
See posting under O rings. Get schematic Motor & Pump pg. 8 from pub # 5995487674. Steps: 1) run cycle so most water is pumped out of dishwasher 2) remove front cover to reduce weight of door; 3) disconnect electric plug, hot water hose [NOTE: be prepared for some water from hose], and waste tube all usually found under sink area; 4) remove 2 screws at top of front panel; 5) lower leveling feet to allow best clearance; 6) put towels under front feet to protect floor and slide unit out from under counter; 7) place heavy blanket next to unit to protect floor and tip unit over on its side; 8) disconnect electric plug from motor and remove metal spring clip holding motor (2 torx screws) and pull clip off motor; 9)gently rock motor while lifting to remove from unit [NOTE position of motor for reassembly]; 10) put thin coat of silicon on O rings and place on new motor [look at old motor to make sure O rings are in proper slots; 11) line up motor and gently push new motor back into position; 12) reverse disassemble steps above. 13) run dishwasher through fastest cycle to check for leaks.
All Instructions for the PLD2855RFC1
1-15 of 425