Models > PLD2850RDC2 > Instructions

PLD2850RDC2 Frigidaire Dishwasher - Instructions

All installation instructions for PLD2850RDC2 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dishwasher repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the PLD2850RDC2
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high limit thermostat was open

  • Customer: Robert from Huntingtown MD
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 18 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
Disconnected power to the unit at the circuit breaker. Removed the bottom panel of the dishwasher. Used a stubby Phillip screwdriver to remove the single retaining screw holding the high limit thermostat against the bottom of the dishwasher tub. Not only was the thermostat burned out, one of it's electrical connectors was also destroyed. Removed the tape holding the cable bundle together so that I could work on the quick disconnect plug outside of the unit. One end of the quick disconnect plug was completely burned through and needed to be replaced. After doing the necessary electrical repairs and assembling the new thermostat into position I applied power and everything worked fine. It helped having a picture on your website that I could use to identify the correct replacement part.

Dishwasher leaking

  • Customer: matthew from west river MD
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 16 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
Thought the problem was a faulty door gasket (there was a gap in the middle of it) so I ordered new(new one had a gap also) replaced it anyway - maybe it was worn out? Still leaked! Had to sit and stare at it and cycle it through. finally realized the spray arm had a hole in the end that was spraying directly into the gap in the door gasket. Hot glued the hole and it stopped so I bought a new spray arm - no leaky!

Leaking from the bottom of the door

  • Customer: beth from green bay WI
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 15 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
With the door wide open and lower dishtray out, I pulled the old gasket out of its channel. I cleaned the channel with a rag and replaced it with the new gasket. It needed to be trimmed about an inch in order to get the door to close properly. Took me about 5 minutes. Then I removed the old bottom door gasket. Just grasped the plastic edge showing while the door is completely open. Pull outward with fingers moving toward the heating element. Cleaned this area also. Took the new gasket with notch on the right hand side of the dishwasher and pushed it into place. If you get down and look closely, you can see where the notch hooks up. The rest of the piece just slides in after that. Hasn't leaked since! No leaks AND no service call fee. Parts came super fast! So glad I found this website. I'm a housewife, you can do this!

Center spray arm broke

  • Customer: Keith from Coventry RI
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 25 of 47 people found this instruction helpful
I was able to pull out the top basket were the glasses are put then I lined up the back and the center plastic clip an slid on the center spray arm. It took about 2 miniutes

Heater High-Limit Thermostat Failed

  • Customer: Scott from Hermitage TN
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 14 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
As another poster had written, on terminal on the thermostat was burned off, most likely due to poor contact by the female spade connector on the end of one of the wires. Removed the DW, tipped it back to gain access, removed the failed thermostat, installed the new one, crimped a new terminal on the end of the wire, and re-installed the DW. Tested all cycles with the heat on and everything worked as designed. Very simple repair, took more time to get the DW out and put it back in than to replace the part and repair the wire.

Latch would not close with normal pressure

  • Customer: Michael from Evanston IL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 18 of 27 people found this instruction helpful
Shut off power to the unit. Removed the screws located along the inside edge of the door, then lifted up slightly on the entire front panel to loosen it from the slotted guides. Be ready to brace the door as there are still some electrical connections that do not need removal to finish the job. Removed two screws that hold the latch assembly in place, leaving the four electrical leads in place (this takes a special screwdriver but I had an attachment with my socket set). Removed the leads one at a time and immediately placed them on the corresponding posts on the new latch (this was to make sure I got the right lead in the right spot). Once all leads were in place, reattached the latch assembly to the inside of the door. The only tricky part was getting the door lined up with the guides and sliding it back into its seated position. That took two people, but only a few tries and it fit. Put the screws back on, turn power back on. Done.

Frigidaire dishwasher main pump failed

  • Customer: jeff from Orlando FL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 14 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
10 year old stainless steel faced Frigidaire dishwasher. The motor assembly part fixed my problem. This was the second part required to fix the dishwasher. A week prior I replaced the inlet water solenoid switch to correct the "no water filling issue". I think that the main motor assembly pump ran dry and caused it to fail, so it is critical NEVER to run this part dry. The repair was relatively easy, I will say it would be great to have some instructions with the parts, however the kit came with everything. you essentially slide the dishwasher out disconnecting power and water ( i left the discharge connected since the service loop was long). you disconnect all the main pump electrical and water connections, labeling made it easy. you take the motor assembly out thru the inside tub. Once the internal sump assembly is out you can clean the sump and remove the old pump. Pull it out straight and dont wiggle it. The kit comes with new O rings that i put a light smear of vaseline on for a good seal. You reinstall the sump and make connections. Since my dishwasher is old, the original Molex power connector to the motor is different on the new motor. The kit comes with a new style connector, what you have to do is snip off your old connector and the kit comes with a new connector with crimps on the ends, you slide the provided heat shrink over each wire and then crimp your dishwashers wires to the new connector. I then used a butane lighter to shrink the heat shrink. The heat shrink is not absolutely necessary since the crimps are insulated, but since the kit came with two perfectly cut pieces of heat shrink I felt obligated to use it. This sounds all complicated but it really wasn't and much cheaper than a new dishwasher! Interestingly and this only maybe in my case but the dishwasher seems to clean better than it ever did.. for now we are not pre-rinsing!

Drain hose was missing

  • Customer: John from Carthage MO
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 13 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
My friend bought a used dishwasher at a garage sale, the previous owner had thrown away the drain hose because it was "nasty" they said....remember it could have been cleaned. When I went to install it, I removed the old washer, and discovered that the old hose would not fit on the replacement dishwasher. I went to the local repair shop, armed with the model and serial #'s. they searched and searched their books and could not find the hose part number. they said "good luck" when I left...I went home and looked up the model on your web site, ordered the hose, and in 3 days had the dishwasher installed and running in about 30 minutes...thanks for prompt shipping.. I couldn't believe it arrived so soon...Mowerman

Dishwasher was leaking at the lower left side of the door.

  • Customer: John from Hummelstown PA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 12 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
Probably the easiest repair job that you could encounter. I removed the old gasket from the door frame. Cut the new gasket to length and pushed it into the door frame.

Water leak solved...

old valve leaked

  • Customer: Ron from Billings MT
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 13 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
I will make a few additions to the other instructions, which are great and let me see that the job was doable. To the tools needed, add pipe tape.
1. Shut off water supply.
2. Removed inlet water hose where it connects to the valve assembly. (This was a pain on my machine—too little room for the wrench, you may have a better tool—but I did get it out, slowly.)
3. Removed the two bracket screws holding the assembly to the frame, and detached the electrical connection (Look for your red and blue wires on the connector, my red was to the top of the solenoid, and reattach with the same grounding) from the solenoid. (This step was a great bit of information; It allowed me to see that I could do the following steps with ease, That is, the unit dropped down where you could work on it.)
4. Removed the inlet hose adapter connection from old valve and installed into new valve.
5. Attached electrical connection to new valve solenoid.
6. Remounted assembly to the frame.
7. Re-attached the inlet water hose to the hose adapter connection on the valve. (I had to take off the L shaped connector at the bottom of the old valve and add it to the new valve. This was an extra step that required two bigger wrenches to hold the old assembly and unscrew the L joint. I just needed the extra leverage to get the old off and the new on. I am referring to the copper connection that connects to you water supply)
(8) The new valve had a slightly different configuration than my old. The rack it sits on was about an inch or so longer. This meant that I had to readjust my copper pipe just a bit to match up when it was reassembled. No big deal, I had lots of pipe length to work with. Actually, moving the valve a bit further back made more room for the wrench to work—very happy about that. In addition, the hose attachment went from a left exit to a back exit. Doesn’t seem to matter.
(9) Turned on the water, washed some dishes. (Took me about an hour, mostly because of the difficulty with the wrenches. Otherwise—piece of cake)

Parts fall off the Frigidare products in my house.

  • Customer: Kurt from Corrales NM
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 13 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
The parts above fell off or broke and were not covererd under warratee. I called you guys, the parts came in a few days and I snapped them on. Your service was very good.

Heating element corroded, not heating

  • Customer: Denise from Burnt Hills NY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Wrench set
  • 11 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
Removed bottom plate and heating element brass nuts. Disconnected heating element. Connected new one then replaced brass nuts. Put bottom plate back on. Very easy.

LOCK DOWN ON STEM STRIPPED

  • Customer: Ronnie from Elberfeld IN
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 10 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
REMOVE 3 SCREWS FROM STEM ASSEMBLY. SWAPPED THE OLD FOR THE NEW, REPLACE SCREWS. INSTALLED AND LOCK LOWER WASH WAND. FIXED IN 5 MIN. GREAT SERVICE AND PRICES. MY WIFE THANKS YOU. (HAD TO HAND WASH DISHES FOR A FEW DAYS)
THANKS

Leaking Door

  • Customer: Robert from Clinton OH
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers
  • 11 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
Pulled out old gasket from bottom of door with needle nosed pliers and then put in new one in.

Upper wash arm bushing had worn

  • Customer: Ronald from Montgomery TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 9 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
Discovered upper wash arm had come off. It looked like it was repairable, but the bushing/clip holding the arm came off after one wash. Looked on line and reviewed part and saw it was a one piece assembly from photos. Removed old assembly by unscrewing from top of washer and screwed new assembly in place.
All Instructions for the PLD2850RDC2
16-30 of 434