Models > PLD2560LCC1 > Instructions

PLD2560LCC1 Frigidaire Dishwasher - Instructions

All installation instructions for PLD2560LCC1 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dishwasher repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the PLD2560LCC1
1-15 of 339
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Leak in the water inlet valve/solinoid

  • Customer: Mickey from Ooltewah TN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 111 of 120 people found this instruction helpful
1. Shut off water supply.
2. Removed inlet water hose where it connects to the vavle assembly.
3. Removed the two bracket screws holding the assembly to the frame, and detached the electrical connection from the solinoid.
4. Removed the inlet hose adapter connection from old valve and installed into new valve.
5. Attached electrical connection to new valve solinoid.
6. Remounted assembly to the frame.
7. Re-attached the inlet water hose to the hose adapter connection on the valve.
8. Turned on the water, washed some dishes.

Bottom Door Seal fell apart and started leaking.

  • Customer: Scott from Flowood MS
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 70 of 80 people found this instruction helpful
First I opened the door all the way. Second I reached down to the bottom gasket then grabed it on the right end of the seal that is on the right side of the door. Then I pulled the end outward from the bottom of the door toward the heater coil in the bottom of the washer. It came out real easy. You see it just snaps into a little plastic groove under the door. I then cleaned up the area for food and soap particules. I then placed the new gasket in place by lining up the notch toward the right end with the piece of plastic that encloses the right end of the plastic notch on the bottom right end of the door. Then push it in untill it stops going into the notch. It snaps in but does not make a snaping sound. It just won't go in no more.

dishwasher was leaking water

  • Customer: Charles from Milton FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 51 of 63 people found this instruction helpful
I removed old tub gasket, which the door presses against to make a seal, and put the new one in. Flat tip screwdriver was used to gently press gasket in.

Dishwasher would not drain

  • Customer: John from Alexandria VA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 42 of 49 people found this instruction helpful
**** A stubby Philips screw driver will save you a lot of headache taking the two retaining screws out that hold the drain pump assembly to the hanging bracket *** An inspection mirror was also helpful trying to locate these screws.

I thought the pump impeller vane was possibly broken because the pump would not drain the dishwasher but it would energize and make a loud clicking/rumbling noise.

1) Drain water from the dishwasher. I used a piece of tubing and siphoned the water out. Remove front cover plate.

2) Turn off breaker and dsconnect two wires going into pump.

3) Remove the pump inlet. I kept the 4" rubber jumper piece attached when I took the pump out.

4) I had to disconnect the wash water feed line to be able to reach the hose clamp on the pump outlet.

5) Loosen hose clamp on the pump outlet if you can reach it, otherwise remove the two screws that hold the drain pump assembly in. There is one screw on each side of the pump. I used an inspection mirror to see the screws. I had to use a stubby Philips head screw driver to take the screws out.

6) Wrangle the drain section out and finish taking off the pump outlet hose clamp. Install new pump and work backwards to put it together.

When I pulled the pump out I found the impeller to be complete (not broken as I had thought) and I saw it had two small steel balls that sat in grooves. I think the two balls and groove act as a safety detent and disengage the pump if something big gets sucked in. I pushed down on the impeller and everything snapped together nicely. Since I already ordered a new pump and I had everything taken apart already I installed the new one but I think I could have just used the old one.

Hope this is helpful to someone else. Washer has worked fine since.

leak at heater element

  • Customer: jr from hollywood FL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers
  • 40 of 46 people found this instruction helpful
The tub perforations at the heater leaked and water dripped onto the fastening nuts and the electrical connections. I ordered a new heater element and it did not have the necessary nuts to fasten it to the tub. I had to go back and order them separately. The original nuts are very unique and cannot be substituted for.The manufacturer should send them with every heater element because this leaking problem is very prevalent on these machines.

Water leaking under the dishwasher

  • Customer: Dennis from Tryon NC
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 37 of 39 people found this instruction helpful
I looked under and found that 2 brass nuts that secured the heater element through the base housing of the dishwasher has split down each side of the nut and no longer was tight enough to keep water from leaking around either end of the heater element. I powered down the dishwasher at the circuit breaker and then reached under the dishwasher and pulled away the 2 wires that were attached to each side of the heater element. I removed the two nuts and replaced them with the parts I ordered from partselect.com. I then put the appropriate wires back at the end of the heater element and ran the dishwasher to check for leaks. No leaks... it was fixed.

One of the door tension springs and related plastic clip failed causing door to open under full weight

  • Customer: Michael from Redmond WA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 36 of 40 people found this instruction helpful
Per the recommendation from PartSelect.com, I purchased 2 new springs and 2 new clips - one set for each side. With the bottom cover plate removed below the door, I removed the remaining spring and clip and installed the 2 new springs and clips by hand. The door now opens with resistance and won't even stay completely opened unless the lower dishwasher tray is rolled out on it. it's like new.
This is the second repair to this dishwasher. Last year I replaced the door latch that had broken with a replacement purchased from partselect.com. That repair was also quite easy.
PartSelect's full part brochures by model made identifying the needed parts simple, and the replacement a breeze.
I even repaired my refrigerator ice maker a couple months ago after purchasing a new control module, and saving both a service fee and the probable full price for a new ice maker.
I've repaired my electric clothes dryer too, and hadn't even thought about all the repairs I'd done thanks to this website, until I told the story of my dishwasher.
I've probably saved $1000 already. Wow!
I love this site.

Spray arm melted onto the heater

  • Customer: SARAH from MANCHESTER NH
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 28 of 31 people found this instruction helpful
First, I had to remove a small metal paper clip that somehow ended up in the bottom of the dishwasher, which jammed the spray arm. The spray arm wasn't able to spin around, so it melted onto the heater. I removed the spray arm, and replaced it with the new one.

Dishwasher was leaking

  • Customer: Nejla from Chicago IL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 26 of 29 people found this instruction helpful
The strip comes right out when you pull, there is a space to grip it on the left and pull it out. The notch goes on the right side when you put it back in; it only goes in one way. I didn't get it all the way in the first time and closed the door; the gasket came right out. A clear sign that I had done something wrong! So I put it in again, this time pushing it as far as it would go. It went all the way in and stayed. It doesn't click or anything, but you can kind of feel when the notches all connect. Also, it doesn't slide right out again.... very easy!

Water in dishwasher did not heat up. Dishes came out dirty and greasy. Some fungus started to grow in dishwasher.

  • Customer: Ewout from Bozeman MT
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 25 of 28 people found this instruction helpful
Unplugged the dishwasher. Closed and disconnected the water supply. Removed two screws that attached the dishwasher to the countertop. Pulled the dishwasher out from underneath the countertop. Laid the dishwasher on its side to access the bottom. The high limit thermostat had shorted out and showed signs of electrical burn. I removed the high limit thermostat by unscrewing the single screw that holds it in place. I then pulled the two electrical terminals off the high limit thermostat . One terminal (i.e. small electrical plug connecting electrical wire to high limit thermostat) was burned badly. I cut it off the wire and attached a generic terminal bought at local hardware store (six for $3). The other terminal was fine. I plugged the new high limit thermostat in and attached it with the single screw to the dish washer. Put the dishwasher back in place. Test ran dish washer and dishes came out shiny, clean and dry. Done.

Door would drop when opened....no tension on springs

  • Customer: Richard from Voluntown CT
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 21 of 23 people found this instruction helpful
First unplug the unit.

Second remove the kickplate. When you do this pay attention to the position of the insulation panel. It is confusing as to how it is put back together. Simple if you see how it comes apart.

Third unsrew the screws that hold dishwasher in palce under the counter top.

Genly pull the appliance from under the counter top. Understand the copper piping connected to the unit for water will only allow you to pull it out a few inches. Otherwise you would have to turn off and disconnect the water supply.

Reinstall the plastic clipsand springs. There are several holes in the frame of the dishwasher where the springs will attach. The further back you attach them, the more tension will be applied to the springs. This part of the operation is somewhat trying as you have limited visibility and access.

When springs and clips are installed, test door, slide unit back in place, reattach kickplate and insulation panel and then reattach to countertop.

All in all relatively simple and doable. If I had any problem it wasnot paying attention to how the insulation panel and kickplate came apart. No big deal.

The dishwasher would not spray to middle or top rack and detergent would not dissolve.

  • Customer: Kurt from Corrales NM
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 18 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
I pulled off the cover inside the sump area. Then pulled the washer out from the counter and turned it on it's side. I took the old pump out and crimped a new wire harness on. It was a simple repair for a DIYer.

Before pushing the dishwasher back, I tested the dishwasher with it pulled out from the counter. It was easy to see water was flowing forcefully through the upper tubing now. Success.

Troubleshooting this faulty pump was harder because it was functioning, but it did not have enough force to push the water up to the top rack. I convinced myself that the pump was the problem by plugging the lower rack with a cork. The spray was still too weak to rotate the upper spray arm. I also ruled out the timer with a stop watch. This unit alternates upper and lower racks by pausing either 0.6 seconds or 3 seconds. This controlls a ball that diverts water to the upper or lower rack.

high limit thermostat was open

  • Customer: Robert from Huntingtown MD
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 17 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
Disconnected power to the unit at the circuit breaker. Removed the bottom panel of the dishwasher. Used a stubby Phillip screwdriver to remove the single retaining screw holding the high limit thermostat against the bottom of the dishwasher tub. Not only was the thermostat burned out, one of it's electrical connectors was also destroyed. Removed the tape holding the cable bundle together so that I could work on the quick disconnect plug outside of the unit. One end of the quick disconnect plug was completely burned through and needed to be replaced. After doing the necessary electrical repairs and assembling the new thermostat into position I applied power and everything worked fine. It helped having a picture on your website that I could use to identify the correct replacement part.

No water to dishwasher on any cycle

  • Customer: David from Las Cruces NM
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 19 of 23 people found this instruction helpful
Unplugged dishwasher, pulled it out. Unclamped hose and unscrewed water source to inlet valve, removed wiring harness, unscrewed bracket and reinstalled new valve. Now have a functioning dishwasher.

Dishwasher leaking

  • Customer: matthew from west river MD
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 16 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
Thought the problem was a faulty door gasket (there was a gap in the middle of it) so I ordered new(new one had a gap also) replaced it anyway - maybe it was worn out? Still leaked! Had to sit and stare at it and cycle it through. finally realized the spray arm had a hole in the end that was spraying directly into the gap in the door gasket. Hot glued the hole and it stopped so I bought a new spray arm - no leaky!
All Instructions for the PLD2560LCC1
1-15 of 339