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Models > PHSC39EGSS0 > Instructions

PHSC39EGSS0 Frigidaire Refrigerator - Instructions

All installation instructions for PHSC39EGSS0 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the refrigerator repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the PHSC39EGSS0
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yearly maintenance

  • Customer: Antonio from Folsom, CA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 578 of 601 people found this instruction helpful
swap filter

water leaking out of refrigerator

  • Customer: Jose from Alexandria, VA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Wrench (Adjustable)
  • 385 of 446 people found this instruction helpful
In my specific appliance the water valve is located in the bottom right hand corner looking at it from the back. To get to it I remove the thin layer of cardboard the covers the back of the fridge. I then proceeded to disconnect the 1/4" copper tubing which is the water feed coming out of the wall. Then I removed the screws that hold the valve assembly in place. I took the water valve out and removed the electrical connections as well as the plastic tubing which feed the water dispenser and the ice maker. To install the new water valve it was just a matter of reversing steps.

Support studs were broken

  • Customer: Peter from Amherst, NY
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 241 of 252 people found this instruction helpful
Used pliers to remove the residual broken stud that was still attached to the wall of the refrigerator, and then just pushed the new part in place. The longest time was spent in removing the food and crisper drawers.

icemaker stopped making ice

  • Customer: David from New Bern, NC
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 228 of 266 people found this instruction helpful
Even though my wife said that our icemaker broke, there was actually nothing wrong with it. It was the valve that let water flow in during the 'harvest' cycle.
A real easy way to test the icemaker without voltage and current measurements, is to fill the tray by hand with a little cup of water; wait till the water freezes and see if the maker dumped the ice into the bin.

Running but not cooling off and frost in the back of the freezer

  • Customer: Leo from Bentonville, AR
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 211 of 256 people found this instruction helpful
Unplugged the refrigerator. Removed the 4 hex head screws on the lower back panel at the back of the freezer. Used a blow dryer to defrost the pipes and area surrounding the thermostat. Unplug the connection from the back of the freezer, unplug the 2 wires, one that goes to the heater, one that comes from power. Unclip the thermostat from the pipe and note which pipe you unclipped it from. Cut the wires on the old thermostat midway between the plugs and the sensor. Using the supplied butt connectors, strip the wire ends on color matched wires (should be a dark blue or black) and crimp them together. Repeat with the other wire. Discard the white shrink wrapping. I wasn't able to get it small enough with a hair dryer or lighter. Plug the thermostat back into it's respective plugs. Clip the thermostat back onto the pipe you removed it from. Replace the back panel with the four screws. Ensure the bottom of the panel is set inside of the drip tray. Replace any shelving you removed. Plug the refrigerator back into the wall. Your done!

Water dispenser actuator snapped in half

  • Customer: Jerome from Yardville, NJ
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 198 of 219 people found this instruction helpful
Unplugged refrigerator. Pull forward on tray at bottom of water & ice dispenser to remove it. Remove three screws. Push up and then pull out to remove black cover around dispensers. Be careful not to break ribbon cable. Pulled ribbon cable from green circuit card on the cover. Set the cover aside. Removed green circuit card from refigerator (six small screws). Had to unplug two wires to do this. Set this aside. Make sure you remember which connector each wire goes in for re-assembly. I ended up removing the entire assembly, it was easier to work on. There were a couple more screws to remove and then you can carefully pull the entire assembly down and toward you to remove it. This meant removing the water supply line from the dispenser. Pushed up on the water supply line with needle nose pliers to "unstick" it and make it easier to pull out. Used needle nose pliers to unplug wires from broken actuator from the circuit card. Make sure to unplug the correct one. Unscrewed the two screws that held the metal plates thet held the actuator in place. Cut the wires to make it easier to remove the broken actuator and pull the wires through Installed the new actuator and screws. Routed the wire through and plugged it in to the circuit card. Now the hardest part, and I would not have figured it out without a tip from this website. There was no slack in the water line and it was impossible to push the end of it back into the hole in the dispenser assembly. Open the refrigerator doors and remove the black cover at the bottom. The water line goes up through the freezer door from the bottom. It was easy to push an inch or two of slack up through the door. Then I could grab the water line and insert it in the hole in the dispenser. Re-connect the wires that were disconnected and replace the assembly in the freezer door. You can pull slack in the water supply line back down from the bottom if needed. Replace the screws that hold the dispenser assembly in place. Replace the circuit card. Then I had to push the ribbon cable back into the slot in the circuit card in the cover. I had to remove the circuit card from the cover to get at the slot. Push the cable into the slot and re-install the circuit card in the cover. I needed to have my son help me here as a second set of hands was needed, the ribbon cable is short. Replace the cover, be careful not to damage the ribbon cable. Install the three screws and snap the boittom tray back in place. Re-install the black cover at the bottom. Works great.

Door was making a popping sound when opened and closed

  • Customer: Charles from Cypress, TX
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 153 of 157 people found this instruction helpful
Unscrewd the top hinge cove and removed two bolts from the hinge, lifted door off of the bottom hinge and laid the whole door on the floor using a beach towel to protect it from scratches. Unbolted the bottom hinge plate, replaced it with the new one. Then pulled out the old hinge bearing and replaced with a new one. Installed the door back on the bottom hinge while the magnet on the door strip held it place and rebolted the the upper hinge and reinstalled the hinge cover. All done in less than 10 minutes. No more popping sounds when I open and close the door!

water leaking(pouring) from the filter into the refrigerator

  • Customer: Michele from Red Oak, TX
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 87 of 99 people found this instruction helpful
Pushed the button on the filter in the fridge, the cartridge popped out and in with the new. That simple. Prior to replacement the water was leaking, although it was still producing water and ice through the door. When the filter was out, no leaks, but no water and ice! Just needed a new filter.

Water actuator snapped in half

  • Customer: vincent from morgantown, WV
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 80 of 86 people found this instruction helpful
First unplug the refrigerator.

Removed the bottom black tray. A quick firm tug is all that is needed.

Removed the 3 phillips head screws.

Pulled out and up being careful not to break the black plastic clips at the top of the external dispensing unit.

Removed the red and black wire clip to the water actuator.

Unscrewed the two phillips head screws with metal plates holding the broken actuator.

Replace the old actuator with the new actuator and reverse the process until complete.

TIP: If you can help it, do not remove the waterline. The space is tight and reinstallation of the waterline is difficult, I know I removed it. It toke and additional frustrating minutes to reconnect the line in a very tight spot.

Refrigerator would sometimes freeze everything

  • Customer: donna from brandon, FL
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 64 of 74 people found this instruction helpful
we researched the internet with our symptoms and most sites said it was the thermostat. At $800+ for a new refrigerater, we decided to order the thermostat. Found schematics on the net, the thermostat was located in teh freezer compartment . Unplugged, removed food from freezer, removed the bottom shelf in freezer, and the back panel It was EASY to find. Cut 2 wires, replaced with new thermostat. DONE! The new thermostat came with new connecters.

Icemaker made ice but would not release them from the ice mold

  • Customer: Kenneth from Aurora, IL
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 64 of 76 people found this instruction helpful
Simply swapped out the entire icemaker, works like a charm

no water to ice maker or water dispenser

  • Customer: hubert from winchester, VA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set, Wrench set
  • 62 of 74 people found this instruction helpful
pulled fridge from wall, removed card board cover, unplug the fridge. turn the water off to the fridge. remove the water source from fridge first then remove 2 screws that hold the valve. then the wire plugs. hoses.. they were color coded.

Water valve had broken

  • Customer: Patrick from Georgetown, KY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 47 of 56 people found this instruction helpful
Repair was very easy - and to my great delight, they have replaced the old-style compression fittings with PEX push-fittings. You just clip the old compression ring and nut off the tubing and insert the tubing firmly into the fitting. SNAP! VOILA! PEX fittings are the greatest things since sliced bread. I used it to plumb my new house.

everything in refrigerator freezing even on warmest setting

  • Customer: Benny from astoria, NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 49 of 63 people found this instruction helpful
To access the part you have to remove the back panel of the freezer compartment from the inside of the freezer itself. There are four screws to this panel. I emptied the contents of the freezer, took of 2 shelves and brackets to gain access and removed the cover. Located the part , cut the wires with a wire cutter and left a small tail ....MAKE SURE TO UNPLUG REFRIG OF COURSE ... the part is clipped on the coils , added the new part. matched the color wires and added the connectors , crimped the wires and added a little electrical tape and put the panel and shelves back. THE REFRIG IS WORKING LIKE A CHARM

Refrigerator would not go into Defrost

  • Customer: Robert from North Chesterfield, VA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 43 of 50 people found this instruction helpful
When I first noticed that my refrigerator coil was iced up, I read a little bit about the defrost cycle of a refrigerator. I decided to try replacing the least expensive parts first. First I tried the defrost themostat, it was a very easy repair. My coil still froze up after a couple of days. Then I learned how to force my fridge into a defrost mode (on a frigidaire you just click the light button in the fridge 5 times in under 6 seconds). Then I noticed that the defrost heater was not heating up...this repair was more difficult. You have to first remove the two shelves, bin, and tracks. Then you remove the back panel...4 screws. Then you have to take out a couple of screws and drill out one rivet on the drain pan and pull the drain pan out so you can get the defrost heater which snakes up through the coil from the bottom of the coil. Be careful, as the drain pan and coil fins are very sharp, I sliced a couple fingers messing around with these parts. The defrost heater itself is relatively easy to put in once the coil is in the right position (there are videos on youtube on how to do this). After I put in the new heating element, and buttoned everything back up, I was excited to check my work...I forced the fridge into defrost by clicking the light switch 5 times, and the heater still didn't come on! It dawned on me that this problem started about 5 days after a major power outage (hurricane Irene)...When the power came on, it must have surged, and zapped the defrost control board...Long story short, I replaced the control board (about $75.00 from partselect.com) and my problem is fixed...at least I have a 100% brand new defrost system now...Of course it won't be too long until my wife wants another fridge to match her Stainless Steel applicances...oh well, this one will do fine in the garage.
All Instructions for the PHSC39EGSS0
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