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Oven not heating to desired temperature
Replaced clock control by removing surface burner control knobs and plastic nuts, and then the cover over the oven control. Two screw hold the clock in place, after removal and disconnecting the plug-in you can reinstall the new clock control. The Heat Sensor inside the oven will also need to be replaced. It is located inside the oven and attached with two screws; the back of the oven will need to be removed to unplug. Reverse removal procedure and turn the power back on to the stove.
I pulled my unit out of the wall and noticed that the insulation around the top broiler element was a bit brown. Closer inspection revealed that the element had shorted somehow to the oven itself and caused the element to become non-functional. I tried measuring the resistance first, and it was within typical values for the other elements, but I decided to replace the element anyway.
I ordered from PD and the part arrived just a few days letter by regular shipping. I undid the screws holding in the element, undid the wire connectors and replaced the broken element with the new one. The element worked like a charm and I was back in business for cooking.
PF alarm appeared on display. Noticed clicking when cord was moved. Had arced for some time and melted original block. New part slightly different. Only has 3 lugs, old one had six. Stack using washers provided. Take note of colors before disassembly. Use caution while working through access opening. The edges are sharp. Only tools needed are phillips screwdriver, deep socket for lug nuts. Nut driver optional. Hope this is helpful.
Oven light receptacle broken - bulb base broke off
Turned power off at electrical panel. Pulled oven away from wall. Removed back cover (6 screws), then unplugged wires from old receptacle. I had to pull the squeeze clips backwards & break them to remove the old receptacle - couldn't squeeze them enough to remove them otherwise. The old receptacle came out through the inside of the oven, and the new one snapped in easily from inside the oven as well. Replaced wiring, installed new bulb, restored power & tested. Replaced back cover. Good time to vacuum under/behind where the oven usually lives before sliding it back to the wall.
step one. removed 2 screws from back panel step two. gently pulled out element step three. took new element out of box step four. began hooking new baking element step five. electrocute husband (forgot to shut off electricity)Oh, by the way he survived! step six. turned off electricity to oven Step seven. hooked new baking element to oven Step eight. replaced two screws to back panel All went well with the exception of step 5 and it bakes great!
the gasket around the oven door was severly scorced and hard. Would no longer seal door.
Easier than painting my toenails!! The gasket came out easily just by pulling with my hands. Replacing it with the new one was even simpler. The clips are already attached to the gasket and easily slip into the holes on the door. I used the end of a tupperware orange peeler to push the unfinished ends of the gasket into a slot at the bottom and that was it! A new, perfect seal and it looks and works great!
replacing the fan on a convection oven (fan was making a vibration noise)
This was the first time replacing the fan. It is a lot easier to work in the oven compartment with the oven door removed, only two screws on the door and the hinges were released. I found that a couple of the screws were either rusted or stripped so I used a pair of pliers to remove the screws that were holding the diffuser in place. Once there was access to the fan I found that the fan was warped and that the blades were scraping against the back wall of the oven. The next challenge was to remove the retaining nut. I used a sheet metal screw to secure the warped fan to keep it from spinning. once I figured out that you have to turn the retaining nut to the right to loosen, it came off easily. 1/2" socket with extension. When I replace the fan I used two washers for spacers to make sure that the fan would not scrape the wall of the oven. Its been tested many times and the oven does not make that horrible sound anymore.
My inner glass shattered during the cleaning cycle.
I looked online and read what other people had done. The best advice was keeping all the screws in the order they were taken out. I also separated the screws that had come from the top, sides and inner side of the door. This helped immensely as I reassembled the door. I spread out a heavy garbage bag that I cut open. This kept debris and glass off of my kitchen floor. This is NOT a difficult repair; Parts Select said it would take three days to get me the glass; it arrived in TWO! Start to finish, the entire job took just about an hour. I saved myself over $100, and again, this is NOT difficult!
Noticed oven was heating but upper element not coming on.
Removed two screws holding broiler element. Released two spring hangers on near the front of the element. Pulled element away from oven and pulled two wire connectors off. Simply reverse process to install new one. Wasn't the problem.
I made the repair by removing two screws from the ends of the handle that were attached to the oven door and then reattaching the $88 plastic oven door handle with the same screws in the existing holes. At that price the door handle and I both got screwed very well!
Old element connections different from new element
Disconnected power at breaker. Removed cooktop mounting screws, lifted top and propped in up position. Removed two screws and lowered two front burners mounting frame. Wiggled dual element free at the clips and proceeded to swap wires one at a time and realized the difference with connectors 1a and 2b much later when only the center portion was heating up. Finally figured out the problem and everything works as advertised. Pay attention if you own a Kenmore product.
Followed on-line instructions to remove the defective heating element. Some connection tabs on the replacement unit were different than the original. One tab was too wide to accept the stove's slip-on wire connector without fling down the tab width on the heating element. Thanks to some on-line instructions, wire connections to element 1a and 2a had to be reversed. If not for those instructions I would probably have ended up sending the unit back to the supplier, as an incorrect replacement !