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PFS22SISBSS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

All installation instructions for PFS22SISBSS parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the refrigerator repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the PFS22SISBSS
76-90 of 378
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Refrigerator ran too much, condensor fan not running

  • Customer: Dan from Ellicott City MD
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
Removed cover plate on rear of unit - 3 screws

Removed connectors and ground wire

Removed board (use needle-nose pliers to compress plastic mountig posts)

Replaced board, inserted connectors, attached ground wire, put cover on

Everything worked properly

Cabinet very hot on sides, freezer not 0, running continuously.

  • Customer: Philip from Los Alamos NM
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
Diagnosis of symptoms was condenser fan not running, due to faulty main board.

First: removed the cover over the main board, which was too hot to touch. Bad design flaw, no ventilation for the board, which I believe made it fail. We got another year of service with the cover removed.

Second: after reading people's experiences here, ordered the board and popped it in. (Note: needed a pliers to compress each of the 4 plastic studs holding the board in.) Works like a champ.

Third: did NOT replace the cover. At our altitude the air can't conduct enough heat to prevent cooking the board. Need to allow circulation.

The evaporator fan in the freezer would slow down and speed up for a long period of time before eventually shutting down at the end of a cooling cycle.

  • Customer: Michael from Pacheco CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
Tom Paone at quality@applianceeducator.com. was very helpful at recommending that a solution to my problem was to replace the ASM Main Domestic Motherboard. I ordered and received the board in two days from PartSelect. After unplugging the refrigerator I used a nut driver to remove the three screws that held the motherboard cover in place and then disconnected all of the connections to the board. Next, using a pair of needle nose pliers, I gently squeezed on the white plastic anchor retainers that fastened the motherboard to the refrigerator. While doing this at each anchor I gently pulled on the motherboard until it was separated from the retainer anchor post. There were four retainers total. I removed the old board and in the reverse order installed the new board. All of the connectors were easy to match to the new board because the wiring connectors coming out of the back of the refrigerator were only long enough to hook to the correct connectors on the circuit board. There was an extra connector that I didn't use on the new board and also the connection for the ground wire used a ring connector instead of a spade connector. To remedy this I simply used the ground wire assembly from my old board. I also took the time to remove the lower cover on my refrigerator and cleaned the condensing coil with a vacuum cleaner. The total time to replace the motherboard and clean the condensing coil was about 20 minutes from start to finish. This repair solved the problem with my evaporator fan. A big thanks to Tom Paone at quality@applianceeducator.com. for helping diagnosis my problem and suggesting the correct replacement part. I saved between $100.00 to $150.00 not having to call out an appliance repair person to fix my refrigerator.

Frige stopped cooling completely

  • Customer: WILLIAM from YUMA AZ
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
i Removed back panels and then I removed the faulty circuit board. Installed new circuit board and presto everything worked. I can't believe how easy it was but on the other hand I couldn't believe a refrigerator had such a sophisticated part..

icemaker quit working when we moved

  • Customer: Regina from Taylorsville KY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 4 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
My husband took out the old icemaker in about 5 minutes. The new icemaker was a perfect fit even though the refrigerator was >10yrs old. The only difficult part was the plug extension that was needed so that it would fit into an older appliance. The part was included, it just made the cord about 3 inches longer than it needed to. After working with it for about 20 minutes we were able to fit it on the back side of the icemaker. Now it works great!!

Would not make ice

  • Customer: George from Chadds Ford PA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 3 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
The part I received was not an exact replacement, but GE confirmed that it was the current part to be used. The elect. cord on the new unit was about 3" longer than the original. In addition, it had the wrong plug, but they did supply an adapter cord with the correct plug, but that added another 6" to the cord length. There was no mention in the instructions, with the part ,for how to deal with all of the extra cord and the very bulky extra plug. After several attempts to get technical help from PartSelect and GE, I said to hell with it and just jambed the cord in as best I could. It is not pritty but it works.

Refridgerator was not cooling

  • Customer: Terry from The Villages FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
First, I removed the cover plate from behind the fridge. Next, I carefully pulled the main board out (four little clips holding it in) and disconnected the plug in wires. I connected the wires to the new board, popped it back in place and replaced the cover. Very easy to do.

The fill cup kept breaking and we couldn't find the part. Did a google search and found Partselect.com who had it.

  • Customer: Lana from Fort Myers FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 3 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Slide it over the fill hose and just line it up and put it in the slot.

Will not defrost

  • Customer: James from El Dorado AR
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
The replacement part went in quite easily and quickly. The instructions sent with the part was pretty self explanatory. I have also replaced the defroster element, the defrost thermostat and now the main control board. After having done all this the thing is still freezing up. After disassembling the whole freezer section I found yet another temperature sensor (Also known as Thermistor). I'll replace this part next and if it still freezes up you'll be able to find it sitting on the curb. Thrown enough money at this ten year old fridge and a new one will be in order. Thanks Parts Select for reasonably priced parts, the posts to help with the repair and the fast shipping.

Water leaking and freezing everywhere. Weird shaped ice cubes, more like chunks which jambed the dispenser.

  • Customer: Peter from Riverdale NJ
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
First removed the two screws that holds the old ice maker in place. Unplugged it. The freezer compartment was too narrow to allow the unit to slide out or turn in any other direction. Had to also remove the two front screws from the left side ice bin track and swing it down. The door opening was also too tight. Scratched the plastic door jamb putting the new unit in but other than that all is well and functioning well.

Clips that attach the guide rail to the shelf bracket broke

  • Customer: Tony from Tucson AZ
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
Remove the old bracket. Remove the temp control arm and shutter. install the arm and shutter on the new rail. clip the new rail in place. replace drawer. 5 minutes total.

refriderator not cooling consistetly

  • Customer: randall from coopersville MI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
1 opened door 2. pryed cover off from cieling 3.cut and stripped wires on 4. sodered wires from old wires to new sensor. 5 insulated conection.6 put cover back on. This did not fix the problem it was the control moduel.

Refrigerator/Freezer Warm & Condenser Fan Not Running

  • Customer: H E from St Simons Island GA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
The control board and access panel are on the back of the refrigerator, so you will need to roll/slide the refrigerator away from the wall to gain access to the panel. Be careful not kink the water line if you have an ice maker connection.
Unplug the power cord from power outlet on the wall.
On this model the control board is located behind a rectangular panel that is about 8" x 10". The panel is about 3 feet above the floor on the left side (as viewed looking at the back of the refrigerator).
Using a Phillips (cross point) screwdriver, remove the screws and the access panel cover. Look closely at the control circuit board and you will see 4 small white plastic protrusions sticking through the board -- these are the plastic posts that hold the board in place. There is a small tab that locks the board to the plastic mounting post. Use your needle nose pliers (or other small pliers) to compress the small tab on the post; and while squeezing, pull on the control board until it releases from the post/clip. Repeat this for each of the four posts and the board will now be free from the mounts.
Look at the plugs that connect the wires to the board and note the orientation of each plug. Each plug is a different size, so they will only fit into the socket of the correct size. On my refrigerator, there is one plug that is not connected to the board and is hanging loose, so don't get confused when connecting plugs to the new board - this one remains unconnected.
Firmly pull each plug from its socket on the board -- try not to pull by the wires. If you have a stubborn plug, grab it with your pliers and pull it out. There is a green ground wire connected by a screw into the refrigerator cabinet. Remove this screw and ground wire. (Note: on some models the green ground wire is fastened with a screw that holds the cover in place - just be sure to reconnect the wire when replacing the cover).
Insert all of the plugs into the new board -- be sure they are seated firmly. Reinstall the ground wire. Place the board over the plastic posts and push until the tab locks the board in place. Replace the cover.
On the sheet that comes with the refrigerator they instruct you to remove the lower panel on the refrigerator that covers the compressor motor compartment. They instruct you to look at the power cord connection to the compressor and to locate a green wire from a capacitor. If your power cord does not have a capacitor exactly like the one pictured, there is no need to proceed on this step. Replace the lower panel. If it does have a capacitor as illustrated, follow those instructions and then replace the panel.

Now plug in the power cord to the wall power outlet. Before pushing the refrigerator back into place you want to make sure it is operating properly. To make sure that there is no "Glitch" during start up, I suggest that you set the temperature control inside of the refrigerator to "OFF" and wait about 3 minutes. After 3 minutes, set the control to the desired temperature (about 37 Deg for Refrigerator and 0 Deg for the Freezer).
If the refrigerator is running, you are finished. Being careful not to kink the water line, push the refrigerator back into place.

Freezer/Fridge not cold & compresser would not turn on.

  • Customer: Linda from Tiverton RI
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
For troubleshooting, I took off rear panel inside of the freezer compartment & determined that icing of the coils was not the problem & it did not apprear to be a defroster malfunction. All components appeared to be working properly except the compressor would not turn on and only room temperature air was being circulated by the fan. After narrowing the probable causes down to a faulty Main control board by reading as many similar posts as possible,I ordered the new control board. When it arrived the following morning via UPS(less than 24 hours!), I unplugged the wiring connections attached to the old board, (which was somewhat different in appearance), and then gently popped the circuit board off of the plastic retainer studs by pushing in the little retaining clip part of the studs in with a small screwdriver so the board could be released easier as I pulled outward. I popped the new board on the studs by gently & evenly pushing with a larger hut driver over the studs until it was locked in, being careful not to damage or over stress/bend the board. I placed the wiring connecters onto the pins on the board.....every connecter had a different amount of pins so improper connection was not possible. I placed the ground wire connection of the new board between the metal cover plate @ an adjacent screw location to ensure grounding to the back of the fridge sheet metal. I plugged in the refrigerator and was quite relieved when I heard the compressor start up after a second or two! Within moments the temp began to fall until it reached the proper temp in both compartments. Success!

Freezer and refrigerator would get warm, followed by it getting cold again, doing this numerous times throughout the day.

  • Customer: Anthony from Yardley PA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful
After determining it was not a problem with the defrost cycle, ( this refrigerator had no separate defrost timer), I ordered the main circuit board with the hope that the relays built into it were hanging up and not properly turning on the compressor, (a chattering sound could be heard). Ten screws to take the access cover to the board off and a few connectors later and it was as good as new. Took about ten minutes!
All Instructions for the PFS22SISBSS
76-90 of 378