PFS22SBSBSS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

I first thought of the board because it seems to be the most common problem but after a process of elimination I found it to be the evaporator fan which was relatively easy to disassemble and re-install. I am not a repair man of any sorts but spending $45 is much better that buying a new fridge. All is working well and my wife is happy.JG

After reading some of the reviews. I bought and replaced the main circuit board. The parts came quickly and the job took very little time. Good time to remove all the panels on the back and clean the dust off everything. Refrig. is running great now! Easy fix! Thanks to all the help.

Little difficult getting the switch out, had to pry wth some force. New installation was real easy.

Replace main board.

took out shelves and removed the back plate my removing 2 screws with a nutdriver.removed the old defrost timer and defrost heater which was really easy.then installed the new ones.the video i watched on the website was really helpfull.

as per video

Replace main control board .Problem solved.

changed sensors did not repair problem,replaced damper with mechanical damper fixed problem.

very easy installation and speedy parts delivery. thank you

Replacing the main control board was not difficult. When I received the order confirmation from partselect.com they included a link to their repairman video for the part replacement. Unplug; unscrew the panel; unplug the wired connections from the old control board; do use pliers to squeeze the corner clips that hold the board in place and remove old board. Slide new board over the clips; plug in all the connectors (they each have different number of pins so you can't confuse them); replace the back cover and plug the refrigerator back in. Very quiet now; temperature controls work; freezer works and as an added bonus, the ice and water dispenser is also back in operation. I had thought it was a separate issue, but lo and behold, replacing the main control board fixed everything. Thank you partselect!

First, I had to remove the freezer drawer front. This is 8 large phillips head screws. then remove the plastic cover over the drawer slides. to do this, remove the white center screw from the slide near where it attaches to the drawer front. then the plastic cover will slide off pushing to the rear of the slide. take off the slides from the freezer walls by removing the phillips screws and pulling them towards you. They have tabs/slots in the rear. remove the center tray support and support bars, too. the icemaker has to come out, that is just 2 phillips screws but you also have to disconnect the electrical connector. just squeeze the locking wings and rock/pull. a screw in the top center of the back panel comes out. Lift and pull the back panel out. The evaporator coil appears. The thermocouple is attached to the coil in the upper right. Cut that one's wires and take it out. Just cut back about an inch from the back of the thermocouple, there is not much slack. Seperate and strip the wires back about 3/8 inch. Do the same for the new thermocouple. I twisted the wires together and used a solder sleeve to join the wires. The sleeve is just a little plastic tube that has a ring of solder in it that melts with heat gun heat. You can join the wires using butt connectors or whatever method appeals to you. I just wound the extra wire and put a cable tie around it, there is plenty of hiding space in that area. Make sure the new thermocouple is contacting the coil firmly.At this point, for a test, I left everything apart, propped the drawer against the opening and plugged the fridge in. Note that the evaporator fan will not start spinning immediately! It will just sit there making little bumps like it wants to go. The temp in the coil has to get settled before the electronics in the refridge will tell the fan to spin. It takes maybe 20 minutes. Reassemble. Fridge and freezer work great. It does take several hours for all to get cold again.

Replaced board, easy to diagnose and repair.

I watched the video that was provided by PartSelect. The process could not have been more straight-forward. After unplugging the fridge from the wall outlet, i unscrewed the 9 or so screws that attached the plate covering the circuit board, I carefully unplugged each of the wiring plugs that were attached to the circuit board, except for the plug providing power to the board. That one I was unable to unplug while the board was still attached to fridge. I then used a pair of needle-nosed pliers to release the 4 plastic clips that held the circuit board in place and removed the unit from its housing. I was then able to unplug the one remaining wiring plug. The new board had a slightly different design, so attaching the power to the board was easily done after mounting the new board onto the plastic clips. The entire process took me less than 5 minutes. I plugged the fridge back into the wall outlet and my refrigerator came back to life! Thank you PartSelect for helping to make the task so simple and straight-forward!

followed the instructions included with part. Basically removed metal cover, disconnected cables from board, released plastic clips that held board in place, followed instructions included to reconnect. My particular model did not have any wire loom modifications (it tells you if you need to based upon your model number prefix)

I started by Googling what causes a refrigerator to stop working. Step by step, I learned about a refrigerator components. Compressor, relay, capacitor, were good. Took the mother board out and noticed that portion of the back of it had blackened. I immediately remembered that we had two short power outages that day. Ordered the board through PartSelect- regular shipping. To my surprise I received the part in less than two days. Installed the mother board and cleaned up the area in 15 minutes. It's been 2 week since installation, and everything is good. FYI, now the refrigerator is on a 2150 Joules surge protector.