PDET910AYW Maytag Dryer - Instructions

Unplugged dryer, turned off gas, raised front of dryer with two 2X4's on edge resting on legs, removed two lower panel screws, removed lower panel. Removed lower blower & filter assembly, screws (3) are on the inside of drum. (Good chance to clean it out) Removed two lower front upper main panel screws. Supported top panel with wood for access. Removed panel slowly, marked wires that go to door switch, set panel aside. Removed tension on belt by reaching in on the right lower side and unhooking the tensioner from belt, look to see how it is installed, for reinstallation on assembly. Pulled drum out slowly as not to damage seals on drum. replaced parts, attached with self tapping screws.(screws all the same size) reassembly in reverse order. Will need to put belt on drum before installing drum. Check drum alignment with rollers and seals. Used very small amount of high pressure grease on roller bracket and shaft assembly where the support roller shaft spins for lubrication. All's quiet. (Vacuumed out inside while dissassembled)

Removed top, remove front panel, removed drum assembly brace, removed drum and belt . The belt and rotor were shot. I replaced both drum support rollers since i was there. Then replaced the motor and Idler lever and pulley, the put the belt on and put everything back. This unit will last a while longer and the grand total including next day air 175.00. I tried to just by the motor locally but for 242.00 I got every thing listed above.
Thanks

Un plug the dryer ***
Pulled the top portion of the dryer off
Used socket to undue two nuts to remove the front panel and unhooked the wires.
unscrewed 3 screws and took out the air duct assembly. Cleaned the dryer of all lint and replaced the air duct with a new one.
Reverse the process.

I took the front bottom cover off. In the lower left corner in the back of the dryer was the element. I removed the two screws that held it in place. The wires were long enough to reach the front of the dryer with the element for eas of switching. I pulled the element out to the front of the dryer and switched wires. Slid new element in place which looks trickey but it sits right were you need it too so you can get screws in. I put cover back on ran a cycle with no cloths to burn off the element and as good as new.

Searched Maytag.com and other sources, only partselect.com had what I needed. Three days after my purchase, our dryer lint screen was again fully functional.

Simply remove the front panel screws(2) at the bottom of the dryer. Pull bottom of panel outward until it swings free of the top(taking care not to pull the wires out). Rotate out of the way and remove the two left side screws holding the drum plate and snake the belt around the flange. Reinstall those screws and remove the same ones on the right side. Snake the belt behind that flange and reinstall screws. Then all you have to do is run the belt around the motor sheave and the idler pully and your done. Reinstall the front panel.

First, I unplugged the dryer. Then I used a flat screw driver to pop the top open. I removed 2 bolts from the front cover and removed the front door cover. I also took pictures of the electrical connector on the door so I would remember how the wires went back on. Then I removed 4 bolts from the front drum guide and lint screen holder. This allowed me to remove the drum & old belt. While the drum was out, I pried an access panel open on the side of the dryer. I then glued the new back felt piece in place. I put the new belt around the drum and re installed it. I re-installed the front guide and front cover re-connecting the door electrical switch. With the access panel open, I attached the belt to the motor. I then plugged it back in and turned it on to verify operation pryor to snapping the top cover back in place. Very easy repair.

Because the wheel had stopped and the shaft kept turning (junk from child's pocket got in there), the nut stripped itself away from the wheel causing low RPM and low air movement (lazy flame, vibration and clothes not drying)

I had to use a screwdriver to break the wheel away from the center nut and remove the fan. I then removed the air fan housing (3 bolt behind the fan wheel). I used a small pair of vise grips to hold the motor shaft staionary while I used a pair of channel lock pliers to remove the nut that was molded into the fan from the motor shaft. It was harder to get the nut started then I would have thought.

Once complete, I put the fan housing back on and threaded the new wheel on easily. The motor has external fins on it which turn with the shaft-I held one lightly while I threaded the fan on to keep the shaft from turning. Tighten just slightly more than hand tight-don't go crazy-it's threaded to stay tight with rotation. Works great and very quiet now.

removed the dryer female part that was broken with needle nose pliers and inserted the new one, on the door i removed one phillips screw and r/r the male piece with the new one and re-inserted the screw. that was all, very easy repair

Squeling from inside dryer. To Fix-
Pry dryer top cover off by popping cover off the two fastening clips located at about 3" inward from the two front corners. A screw driver at these two locations is easily inserted between the top cover and front panel.
Next remove the two screws on the top inside of the driver approximate size 5/16 inch. Pull the top of the front panel outward and then note how the lower portion clips into the fram, lift the front panel off the clips and roll it to the right. Remove the 4 screws and bulkhead.
Draw a picture of how the belt wraps around the drum and idler. Also note the belt orienation on the drum. Roll the belt off the idler pully and reomve the drum.
Replaced Idler asembly by first removing the tension spring and lastly the retaining bolt.
Reinstall everything in reverse order. Can be a bit tough getting the belt around the idler and motor pulley however this is managable. My machine runs great now!
Once again Parts Select comes through with great delivery, perfect fit, good pricing, accurate parts list. This is my third purchase and I have been 100% pleased. By far the best on line service I have ever experienced.

I just inserted the door catch, which by the way fit in perfectly. Thanks. Took 5 seconds to repair.

I opened the front panel and removed the heating element from the rear of the dryer by removing the two screws that held it in place, and slid the element out. using a mulitester I checked the High limit Fuse and it was not working.I ordered the part and replaced it. Everything worked great for two days and the dryer stopped heating again. My brother asked if I had replaced the thermostat because something burned out the fuse. He was right. I ordered both parts and replaced them. Every thing is working just fine. Save some money and time by replacing both parts at the same time.

I removed the dryer front and the drum, then disconnected the wires from the dryer motor and removed it from the motor mount, after installing the new motor in the motor mount the rest was just putting the dryer back together the same way I took it apart, the best way to do this is to print out the diagram from partsselect.com and follow it step by step, this was so easy everybody can do this and save alot of money for the labor and the parts mark-up, try it you all can do it (SO EASY)

Switch can be removed from outside of dryer and your video described the repair as having to work from inside dryer. But since wires were still attached to old switch, it could be popped out and wires switched. Since there were three wires on new switch to allow it to turn on and off a circuit, it was useful to check the resistance of the switch compressed or released to be certain I was attaching the two wires to the right two poles of the new switch. But that all required only a couple of minutes. Thank you.

Remove 2 screws on the front panel at the bottom of the dryer & remove front panel. Remove the black plastic "duct" from blower to lint filter by removing 3 screws. Heating element is on the back wall of the dryer in the lower left corner. 2 screws hold the heating element to the dryer wall. Remove these 2 screws. Might be a little tight to get back there. Try to be more patient than me. :) The wires on the heating element are plenty long enough to bring to the front & outside of the dryer. Remove screws holding thermostat & fuse to heating element. I wasn't sure if I needed a new thermostat or not, but it wasn't expensive so I went ahead & decided to put a new thermostat on the new heating element. I re-used the fuse from the old element, but they're not expensive either. Just notice how rthe thermostat and fuse are oriented on the old element & put them on the new element in the same orientation. I had to use pliers to get the wires off the old element's terminals. They were a little tricky to get off, but my dryer is over 10 years old. They've been on there a while. Just move 1 wire from old element to new element at a time. That way you don't have as much of a chance hooking up the wires wrong. Put new element in & everything back together. I vacuumed out the lint in the bottom of the dryer. I ran the dryer for over 30 minutes with no clothes in it to break the new heating element in. You're good to go! You CAN do this yourself. It's not a hard repair to do. Don't buy a new dryer or pay an appliance repair guy! Thanks to PartSelect for quick delivery & posting these instructions from other people!!