PDBL390AWB Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

The hardest thing was figuring out that you only need to purchase the latch handle because it only comes as a complete latch assembly, why they even list the latch assembly as a separate part in the parts list stupid. (you get the handle and latch already put together and it cost less than the latch assembly without the handle). Anyway all you need to do is disconect the power from the dishwasher (unless you like to live dangerously like me) take your drill with the correct size torx bit and remove all the screws on the inside door pannel (the top center two screws actually hold the latch assembly in place). Disconect the 4 wires from the old part and reconect them to the new part and reinstall all the torx screws being careful not to strip the plastic threads that they screw into if you are using a drill. Whole process takes less than 5 minutes. I am surprised that Maytag used such a flimsy handle assembly in their dishwashers since they are supposed to have the repair men with the most time on their hands. They probably sell just as many handle assemblies as they do dishwashers that have this particular part in it, probably more since you will probably have to change it 2 or 3 times during the life of the unit.

I Followed others' instructions already posted to replace the whole handle assembly. In particular, use a big screwdriver placed against the bottom of the handle and whack the grip with the palm of your hand to get the handle to move back to the open position so you can open the door and start the job. I am no handyman, but this fix was easy, about 30 minutes in all, most of which was spent figuring out which breaker to pull so as not to get shocked. One note of caution: use the correct screwdriver attachment (not a Phillips head or regular, but a star or something- see I am not a handyman but I do have a $15 screwdriver set that just paid for itself 10 times over!).

Remove the 8 or 9 torx screws holding the inner and outer door assembly together (leave the bottom screws in), lift the old handle assembly out, transfer the switches to the new handle assembly, and reassemble door.

remove torq scew from edge of inside of door and seperate plastic inner panel from out steel and then pull up on plastci unscrew 2 screw securing handle and reverse to assemble. Anyone can door this in under 10 mins.

unwrapped wheels ,pulled out drawer and easily put on new wheels...as we live way out in the boonies it was great to be able to order parts and have them delivered so fast...easy to fix....

This repair was fairly quick and easy. The parts are much better made than the stock Maytag. The parts from PartSelect came lightening quick! Never used before, always Sears, but will ALWAYS use from now on!
So, first, make super sure all power is disconnected. Then take the torx and remove all the screws on interior front cover - the top center two actually hold the latch assembly and handle. Once all are removed, I propped the cover up and left all wiring connected. I removed the switches connected to the old latch assembly and just removed the new switches from the new latch assembly, and popped the old ones onto the new latch assembly. Now have new switches if the old ones ever wear out.
The latch assembly just pops out from what should be two sets of plastic peg clips molded into the black control panel back. Mine were busted on one side. So I molded some jb weld on the remaining sides to the pegs on the latch assembly and then screwed all back together (the controls on the panel are fine, not spending $85 if I can get away with sticking it...and the upper center two screws do the most of the holding anyway).
Works great again. I really am ultra impressed with the HUGE difference in reinforcement that the new handle has. If Maytag would have built it that way to begin with, should not have broke. Anyway, if you are here just checking to see if you can do and how much parts are, place the order - it is no problem and cheap, and will probably never give up and break again.

For probably a year I have been using my dishwasher with a broken handle. I would just pull the door out with a little bit of force to open it. Still I was concerned it would eventually break something else. After reading other people's experience with replacing it, it didn't sound like such a difficult repair and the part was less than 30 dollars counting shipping. Incidently, PartSelect ships fast so make sure you order the right part. I ordered the part Friday afternoon and got it the next day! And I didn't use overnight shipping. Sweet!
Here are the steps for repair.
1) Turned off power to dishwasher.
2) Removed all the screws on the inside of the door then shifted the panel over so I could get to the top.
3) The bottom of the latch assembly attaches to the control panel with two flimsy plastic notches and at the top with two of the screws that hold that back panel in place. (For me, I found that those flimsy notches had broken. I was concerned that I would have to buy a whole new control panel which was ~175.00 dollars. Yikes! Luckily the two screws at the top and the door panel behind it seem to be holding it in place.)
4) There are two pairs of metal prongs that plug into a white connectors on either side of the latch assembly. I had to use pliers to pinch the metal prongs together while wiggling the connector get it unplugged. This was the hardest part. (It would have been easier to just reuse the same metal plugs. Someone else did that and it seemed to work.) Be sure to note which side of the latch assemply the two connectors was plugged in to.
5) Plug the 2 white connectors to the new latch assembly.
6) Lay the latch assembly in place on the door.
7) Put the back panel down over it and screw it in place.
8) Turn on power.

Works perfectly!

First - Make sure electricity to the dishwasher is turned off. Very important for there are exposed electrical connectors in the location where you will be making the repair. Second - removed the inner door liner. Removal is by unscrewing the tork screws around the perimeter of the assembly (when you take this inner door liner/cover be careful because the door weight dynamics change and you will need to somehow put a weight on the door to keep it open. Becareful here the metal of the door is very thin and can be damaged if not careful when placing the counter weight - you will see what I mean). Third - disconnect the electrical wires from the door latching assembly micro-switches. Do this by unplugging the connector from the switches - be advised, the connections are tight and takes some effort to unplug (again - make sure you have turned the electricity off to the dishwasher, there are exposed electrical connectors - very important!!!). Forth - remove the door latching assembly. This is done by removing two screws. The new part that I ordered came with the handle, latching unit and two new micro switches - which made the repair easy. Fifth - Re-install the new handle/latching unit assembly. Reconnect the "plugs" for the two micro-switches (make sure you make the right connection of plug to micro-switch). Reinstall the inner door liner/cover (be careful that the bottom part of the inner liner is properly aligned/mated with the lower section of where the door actually meets the dishwasher itself, it has to be properly fitted in order for the door to open and close properly and not leak). Once all is together and the door opens and closes properly, turn on the power and operate the machine. Look for any leaks during operation.

First, I researched the part on this website and found the suitable replacement part...the number is different from the original Maytag part. I placed the order and the part arrived quickly. Then I used the appropriate driver to loosen the 11 screws that are around the inside of the door. I pulled up on the plastic panel to gain access to the handle and latch assembly and the old handle fell out as well as the latch assembly. I took off the electrical clips(this was the hardest part....you have to pull hard) and re-attached them to the new part. I put the handle and latch assembly in place-they come together as a single unit which makes it far easier to replace than just the handle alone-and then re-posistioned the plastic inner door, and finally tightened the screws. Shut the door and opened to test. Done deal. No problem.

1.Turn of electric
2. Open dishwasher door
3. Remove scres for interior door cover
4. Lift and move the interior door cover to right
5. Use Pliers to pull off connectors of Latch
6. Use Pliers to attach replacement latch
7. Lay interior door cover back on door and line up with screw holes. Make sure you have the bottom lip over the bottom of exterior door by hinges. Bottom lip goes inside the dishwasher.
8. Put back in screws - not all the way and tighten snug (do not over tighen) once all are in place.
9. turn on power.
10. Done!

30 Minutes tops!

Most of the time was spent pulling out the dishwasher from under the counter, as a new tile floor had been installed after the DW was installed.

Great pictures of components on this website confirmed what part to order.

Shut off water feed to DW and disconnect power to DW.

Unplug wire connector to old valve (solenoid) and disconnect water inlet hose. Observe that valve is attached to sheet metal bracket.

Remove bracket, with valve attached. Don't remove valve from bracket. New valve comes with sheet metal bracket.

Remove female threaded adaptor (brass) from back of old valve and screw on to new valve using Teflon tape. That is the only piece you need to reuse.

Attached the new bracket (with valve attached) to DW. Attach water inlet hose. Attach plug to new valve.

Turn on water to DW. Check for leaks. Retighten hose connection if required. Run dishwasher. Keep lower panel off for a couple of days to be certain no leaks develop.

You have to pull the dishwasher out from underneath the counter and set it on its side. Before removing, I used a shop vac to remove any standing water from inside the dishwasher. Once I pulled out the dishwasher, I then tilted the dishwasher forward to let remaining water fall on the floor, again, using the wet vac for clean up. After it is on its side, I used a socket wrench to remove the one bolt that holds the drain valve on. Then I used a socket wrench to loosen the clamp for the drain hose and removed the hose. You then need to turn the entire drain valve 1/4 of a turn counter-clockwise to remove the old drain valve. Once it is off, remove the bracket from the old drain and attach it to the new drain valve using a phillips screwdriver. Before I reassambled the drain valve, I used my wet vac to remove any debree from where the drain valve connects to the dishwasher. Reverse the prior steps to install new drain valve and install dishwasher back under the counter. I tested the unit before installing the dishwasher back under the counter to insure it fixed the problem. The hardest part about doing this, was actually taking the dishwasher out from under the counter, very easy process in general. One thing I couldn't figure out about my original problem of the water not completely draining out, is why would the drain valve start draining the water then after 20 seconds it would stop? I couldn't find the answer, so I assumed the drain valve is like a 2 stage system and took a chance on replacing the drain valve; it worked.

I ordered and replaced both the door gasket (easy) and inner door seal (difficult) to try and correct a leak during operation. The door gasket was easily replaced. However, the inner door seal was a bit more trouble. After removing the inner door I found that the old inner seal needed to be removed and surfaces thoroughly cleaned of old build-up of dishwasher soap residue, in order to allow the sticky back tape side of door seal to properly stick to the door. There also was a plastic cover over the wire bundle that needed to be cleaned. The inner door seal was the exact length, so proper positioning of the sticky back was very important.
Upon reassemly the leak still existed and I was unable to correct the leak. Further inspection indicated that the basic tub/body of the dishwasher might be slightly distorted due to age and may not create seal with door seal as originally designed.
I guess I need to find a new dishwasher, at this point.
A word to the wise: Check to see if the tub/body is still in good condition.

Had this problem before and the part was simply a plastic latch which cost less than 5 dollars. That part has been discontinued and the latch is now the entire assembly. Although the part costs more, the repair is much simpler. Remove the screws from the inside of the door. Have to use hex nut screwdriver. Remove the panel and the assembly is right at the top. Unhook the assembly from the two (2) prongs. TURN OFF the electricity or touching the prong will bite you. Had to pry the latches off the prongs with a screwdriver as the fit is tight. Latch the new assembly on and rescrew the door panel and the job is done. Very easy and cheaper than a repairman coming out and charging $150.00

Remove the racks top and bottom. The Station D seals are at the far back on the tube that supplies water to the top and middle spray heads. Unsnap the old one and snap in the new - it only goes one way! This will repair the seal aroound the tube that supplies the middle sprayer and restore pressure to all 3 heads. Repalcing the screen accumulator is harder. you need a torx driver. remove the little thumb nut on the bottom sprayer and remove the sprayer. Then remove the tube where you just replaced the D station. (You of course could have done this earlier if you were doing both repairs) then 6 screws on the impeller housing. Now remove the 1 torx screw on the impeller and pull the impeller up and off. Remove the 3 screws on the cover and 2 screws on the accumulator. Clean all the old food scraps that are clogging up the works and reassemble in reverse order. Washer is working again!!