Models > PBF1951HEW

PBF1951HEW Maytag Refrigerator - Overview

Sections of the PBF1951HEW

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Manuals & Care Guides for PBF1951HEW

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Light Bulb - 40W – Part Number: 8009
Light Bulb - 40W
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(66)
PartSelect #: PS884734
Manufacturer #: 8009
This an authentic OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb, used in a number of household appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, which is why these replacement bulbs are mos...
$11.73
  In Stock
Replacement Ice Maker – Part Number: D7824706Q
Replacement Ice Maker
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(150)
PartSelect #: PS2121513
Manufacturer #: D7824706Q
This ice maker (Ice Maker Assembly, Refrigerator Ice Maker) produces ice cubes that are ejected into the storage bucket. It is located in the freezer section of your appliance, mounted on the freezer ...
$139.15
  In Stock
Refrigerator Center Crisper Drawer Slide Rail - White – Part Number: WPW10671238
Refrigerator Center Crisper Drawer Slide Rail - White
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(173)
PartSelect #: PS11757048
Manufacturer #: WPW10671238
This is a center crisper rail for your refrigerator. This part acts as a support rail for the crisper drawer by holding the center of the crisper frame. You will need to replace this part is if your c...
$50.71
  In Stock
Refrigerator Door Switch – Part Number: W11384469
Refrigerator Door Switch
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(83)
PartSelect #: PS12728638
Manufacturer #: W11384469
Door switch turns the light off when you close the door.
$38.48
  In Stock
Condenser Fan Motor Kit – Part Number: 833697
Condenser Fan Motor Kit
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(34)
PartSelect #: PS395284
Manufacturer #: 833697
This condenser fan motor kit is designed for use with refrigerators. This fan draws air through the condenser coils and over the compressor. It does this with the goal of cooling the warm refrigerant ...
$63.18
  In Stock
Door Switch – Part Number: W11396033
Door Switch
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(33)
PartSelect #: PS12731166
Manufacturer #: W11396033
This light switch may also be known as a refrigerator door switch or a light switch kit, and is compatible with your refrigerator. The function of the refrigerator door switch is to turn on the light ...
$27.65
  In Stock
Compressor Start Device and Capacitor – Part Number: W10613606
Compressor Start Device and Capacitor
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★★★★★
(28)
PartSelect #: PS8746522
Manufacturer #: W10613606
This includes both the run capacitor and the start relay. The capacitor helps the compressor kick on and off while maintaining a constant temperature to keep things frozen in your freezer. The start ...
$75.94
  In Stock
Run Capacitor – Part Number: WP65889-4
Run Capacitor
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(5)
PartSelect #: PS11743364
Manufacturer #: WP65889-4
This part helps the compressor kick on and off while maintaining a constant temperature to keep things frozen in your freezer. If you are noticing temperature issues with your refrigerator or freezer,...
$66.72
  In Stock
Freezer Door Handle – Part Number: WP67005140
Freezer Door Handle
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(21)
PartSelect #: PS11743615
Manufacturer #: WP67005140
This is a door handle for your refrigerator or freezer, which allows you to easily open and close the door. Take note that the screws are not included when you order this part; you will need to keep t...
$96.05
  In Stock
Water Fill Cup and Bearing – Part Number: WP628356
Water Fill Cup and Bearing
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(10)
PartSelect #: PS11743318
Manufacturer #: WP628356
This refrigerator ice maker fill cup dispenses the water into the ice cube mold during the fill cycle. Replacing the water fill cup is a possible solution if you notice that the ice maker is leaking, ...
$40.40
  In Stock
Screw – Part Number: WPW10348409
Screw
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(5)
PartSelect #: PS11753384
Manufacturer #: WPW10348409
Sold individually.
$7.76
  In Stock
Crisper Drawer - Clear – Part Number: W10833528
Crisper Drawer - Clear
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★★★★★
(10)
PartSelect #: PS11726308
Manufacturer #: W10833528
Sold individually. This crisper drawer is for refrigerators. Crisper drawer stores fruits and vegetables at a humidity level that helps keep them fresh longer.
$102.91
  In Stock

Questions And Answers for PBF1951HEW

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Richie
December 16, 2019
The compressor pulls 10.3 amps for several seconds and it will not start. I replaced the start and run capacitors. The label indicates it should be 19 lra. Is compressor bad?
For model number PBF1951HEW
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Hi Richie, Thank you for your question. To verify if the compressor is working correctly, you will need to use a multi-meter set to the ohms function. To test the compressor, you will need to unplug the refrigerator from the electrical outlet and then unplug the start relay from it. Most refrigerators use solid state start relays, which can be identified by the two wires connecting to it. The three pins will be marked S, C and R. These letters stand for run, common and start winding pins. If the pins are not marked, you will need to set your multi-meter to the R x 1 scale, and locate the two pins that give the highest reading. These pins are the run and start winding pins, and the remaining pin is the common pin. If the meter displays OL when checking between any two of the pins, the compressor will need to be replaced. You should also check for shorted motor windings. The motor may experience either a turn to turn short or a winding to frame short. The readings should be taken between the run and common pins and the start and common pins. The readings should be within 0.5 ohms of each other. If you do not get these readings, the winding would have a turn to turn short and the compressor will need to be replaced. To verify if you have a winding to the motor frame short, you will need to take a reading between each of the pins and the compressor housing. The multi-meter should display OL. If it does not, you will need to replace the compressor. If the motor checks out fine, you will need to check the thermostatic control. You will need to set the multi-meter between 4 and 5 and check for continuity between the plug and the wires attached to the start relay. You should get a reading of zero. If you get a reading of OL you will need to replace the thermostatic control. If the reading is zero, then you will need to replace the start relay. We hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

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Gary
January 19, 2020
Refridgerator doesn't work at all- there is power
For model number PBF1951HEW
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Hello, Thank you for writing! The first part to look into is the Run Capacitor: To test this part, The part needs to be removed from the compressor to be tested. To test the capacitor with a multimeter, set the meter to read in the high ohms range, somewhere above 10k and 1m ohms. Touch the meter leads to the corresponding leads on the capacitor, red to positive and black to negative. The meter should start at zero and then moving slowly toward infinity. If that checks out, you will then need to look into the start device. We hope this helps, good luck with this repair.

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Common Symptoms of the PBF1951HEW

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Ice maker not making ice
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Light not working
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Leaking
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Fridge too warm
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Will Not Start
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Noisy
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Freezer section too warm
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Ice maker won’t dispense ice
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Fridge and Freezer are too warm
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Door won’t open or close
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Freezer not defrosting
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Fridge runs too long
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Clicking sound
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Ice maker dispenses too much ice
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Ice maker dispenses too little ice
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Too warm
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Frost buildup
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Freezer too cold
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Door Sweating
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Not dispensing water
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Won’t start
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Fridge too cold
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Icemaker producing few or no cubes and often leaving "kling-ons" on ice tray
Interior surface of ice tray felt rough & flaky (coating deteriorated) so cubes would not release.
Unplug appliance.
Remove timer cover by hand pressure @ edge.
Remove single attachment screw & bracket at lower front of icemaker.
Disconnect wiring harness from socket @ rear of compartment.
Tricky part was determining what type of connection held the other two attachment points along the long edge of the icemaker. I did not have repair manual or useful drawing but looked @ PartsDirect pic of side brackets & used a small mirror to confirm that mine were also some sort of "snap in" attachment.
Remove icemaker unit by pushing upward and outward on the unit. I takes a good bit of pressure and will pop loose, but be careful not to break attachment bracket from freezer wall.
Scavenge shut off bar and wiring harness from old icemaker once you have it out & attach to new one before installing it back in freezer.
Again, you might find a mirror useful to align those pesky snap-in brackets with the new unit.
Since you probably kept your freezer running while waiting for the part, the plastic snap-ins will be cold and brittle. I warmed them up first by applying a dampened cloth heated in the microwave to make them a little more pliable.
A good push of the new unit towards the snap-ins along with some upward force will get it stable.
Reattach the metal screw in bracket & connect the wiring harness to rear plug... and don't forget to plug the whole thing back in.
It will take awhile for the first batch of cubes dump as the timer may need to cycle completely around to get to the fill cycle... be patient.
Dump the first couple of batches of cubes just to make sure you're free of any residue.
Parts Used:
Replacement Ice Maker
  • Bernie from Diamond Bar, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
801 of 885 people found this instruction helpful.
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The compressor would not run.
I removed the screws in the lower back panel where the compressor is located. Then I unplugged the capacitor and plugged the new one in. I then checked to see if the compressor would start. It wouldn't so I replaced the overload relay with capacitor and that fixed the problem. The capacitor just plugs into the relay then plugs into the compressor. There are several screws but all in all it is easy.
Parts Used:
Compressor Start Device and Capacitor Run Capacitor
  • Gilbert from Clinton, MO
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
325 of 371 people found this instruction helpful.
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Water overflowed ice maker turnning ice bucket into solid mass of ice
My ice maker has been shedding its non-stick coating for over a year. Within the last month of so, it started pouring water into the ice bucket below, turning it into a solid mass of ice. So I purchased a new ice maker assembly. I encountered two problems not mentioned in the 21 or so do-it-yourselfer repair stories that precede this one. First problem: one of the three screws that hold the ice maker to the refrigerator wall is hidden behind the large (black) end of the ice maker and is difficult to access. Before trying to replace the ice maker, make sure you have the physical dexterity to remove that screw. Second problem: it is not apparent how to remove the wire harness that plugs into the ice maker assembly. BEFORE you can remove the wire harness, you MUST remove the large white cap that covers the black end of the ice maker assembly and then push in a retaining tab to release the wire harness. If you don't do this, the wire harness will not release. Other than those two problems, it was relatively easy to remove three screws, unplug the wire harness, transfer three small, metal parts from the old ice maker to the new, plug in the new wire harness, mount the ice maker assembly so that the water tube is in the proper position, and then re-install the three screws. The ice maker works fine now. (P.S. I was told by an expert that the real problem might be a malfunctioning fill valve. I would have replaced the fill valve if replacing the ice maker assembly had not fixed the problem.)
Parts Used:
Replacement Ice Maker
  • Harry from Grand Ledge, MI
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
269 of 365 people found this instruction helpful.
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