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Models > PAV2300AWW > Instructions

PAV2300AWW Maytag Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for PAV2300AWW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the PAV2300AWW
46-60 of 517
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Washer leaked entire load of water on the floor.

  • Customer: Kevin from Wilton, CT
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Socket set
  • 18 of 21 people found this instruction helpful
These gaskets and seals were relatively easy to get to. I replaced all 3. Put machine back together, but washer still leaked. I ended up having to remove more components down along the center shaft towards the transmission. I found that the "tub seal" was worn out. I also replaced the "seal nut assembly" and "O-ring" while I was at it. The seal nut and tub seal were more difficult to remove without the proper tool, but a bigger rubber mallet and strategically placed pliers were enough to break them loose. Once all parts showed up the washer went back together easily and it is now leak-free.

High pitched screech from brake at end of spin cycles.

  • Customer: William from Lithia, FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 16 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
I disconnected and moved the washer into the garage for optimum work space. Then I opened the top panel (by releasing the two retainer clips between the top and front panels with a putty knife inserted approx 2" in from each side) and taped a spacer block between the back of the tub and the back panel of the washer, to keep the tub from moving toward the back when the washer is tilted.

Then I tilted the washer back against my 2 1/2' high workmate bench (backstopped against the wall). After adjusting the tilt angle to provide adequate access to the bottom of the washer and insure it was was beyond the forward center of gravity, I began the repair.

Working from the bottom, I first removed the drive belt. Then the white dust cap, shaft retaining ring, plastic cam, pulley, and the various washers and bearings leading up to the brake assembly, making note of their order.

Then I removed three of the six 1/2" 10x24 brake stator retaining screws at alternating positions replacing each with one of the three 2" 10x24 screws I had previously purchased the hardware store. Then I removed the three remaining 1/2" screws, and slowly began to remove the three 2" screws alternating a few turns on each in rotation to evenly ease the 200 pounds of pressure from the brake rotor spring.

When the pressure was released, I removed the old brake stator and rotor and placed the new ones on the shaft, then re-compresed the brake rotor spring with the three 2" screws in alternating positions. Then placed three of the original 1/2" screws in the threee open positions, then replaced the three 2" screws with the remaining three 1/2" screws.

Then I reinstalled the remainder ot the parts in reverse order of removal.

slipping drive belt

  • Customer: stephen from redondo beach, CA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 18 of 22 people found this instruction helpful
Tipped machine 45-degrees to reveal belt on bottom of machine. Used screwdriver to remove old belt which looked fine. Installed new belt (which arrived from PartSelect within 2-days) but it felt loose. Tried machine anyway and it works just fine. Easiest repair ever. Thanks, PartSelect!

broken spring in bottom of washing machine

  • Customer: Mike from Rochester, MN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 15 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
Opened the front panel by using a flathead screwdriver (to pop the top lid up) and socket wrench (to loosen the front panel off). I then had to reach in and replace the missing/broken suspension spring. The spring was very difficult to extend so I used coins to lodge into the spring to elongate it. After the spring coils were loaded and held apart with coins (nickels and quarters) the spring could be installed using a pliers for leverage. The washer doesn't make the loud banging noise anymore!

Bearings on the water pump self-destructed.

  • Customer: Richard from San Antonio, TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 16 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
I tipped the washing machine back to allow me access to the bottom of the washing machine to remove the belt from the water pump. After removing the belt, I righted the machine, unscrewed the three screws holding the rear access panel on. I used pliers to remove the clamps from the inlet and outlet hoses then removed the hoses. I removed three screws holding the water pump on to the bottom panel of the washing machine. I removed the pump and replaced it with the new pump. I then reinstalled the screws, the hoses, the clamps, the access panel, and the belt. I plugged the washer back in and - viola! It works again.

Squealing noise in spin cycle this did not fix it!

  • Customer: Ron from Oxford, MI
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 18 of 25 people found this instruction helpful
This was easy except for the e-ring which was extremely difficult to remove. When I put the new one on I filed down the bottom of the front edges to make it easier to slide it on. Beware: If you have the washer tipped back against the wall when you do get the e-ring off everything will come sliding off the shaft all at once and go everywhere. These parts are covered with black grease and made quite a mess so you might want to have someone hold them in place so you can gently slide them off one piece at a time.

Washer made grinding noise then stopped working.

  • Customer: David from Honesdale, PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 15 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
First I tipped the washing machine onto its front. I removed the belt on the bottom of the machine. Then I removed the screws that held the cover in place on the back of the machine. Next I removed the two hoses that were connected to the vertical pump using pliers to pinch the clamps. I then removed three screws that held the vertical pump in place. I took the new verticle pump with pulley and mounted it to the washer and putting the washer machine back together using the previous steps in reverse order.

Wash Cycle Would Not Start - No Water Would Flow

  • Customer: daniel from cerritos, CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
  • 16 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
I took pictures at different steps in case I forgot how it was assembled. Unplugged the power, turned off the water hoses, unplugged the hoses, pulled the washer out, took of the access panel in the lower left hand corner, took of two tec screws that hold the water valve in place, removed the four wires that were attached to the water valve, removed the water hose attached to the water valve, reattached everything to the new water valve. The only difficulty is the access panel is a bit small

drive belt was squealing and slipping

  • Customer: Kevin from North Plains, OR
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 14 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
I wasted time opening up the metal container for the washing machine, which was easier than expected. The top simply pops off with a little bit of prying with a screwdriver, then the front panel is held in place with two sheet metal screws. The front panel then lifts off and you can see the exterior case for the tub drive mechanism and motor. But, it wasn't obvious what was wrong until I tilted the entire unit backwards and saw the drive belt available directly under the machine and fully accessible without any tools. It was obvious, because there was a 1/8" worth of belt fragment dust under the machine. A new belt was all it needed and after I ordered it from PartSelect, I simply jimmied the old belt off the main pulley and put the new one on. It no longer squeals or slips. Hopefully, I gained another 5 years of life out of the washing machine.

The motor ovrheated,

  • Customer: Dennis from Merritt Island, FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 15 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
I took the front pannel off just 2 scrwe was holdig the pannel,the motor was in ftont,4 bolt was holdig the moto,and it is very easy to change,

Machine started making loud squeak, then completely stopped after a couple more cycles.

  • Customer: Robert from Apopka, FL
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 14 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
I tilted machine onto the front to acces the rear panel. i removed the three screws to expose pump, took of the drive belt located under appliance, removed the three pump screws and removed old defective pump. I installed new pump, put the drive belt back on, reinstalled back panel and screws, hooked the appliance up and started. Been running great ever since. Entire process too about 10 min.

Water overflowed from tub onto floor

  • Customer: Dan from Lombard, IL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 15 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
The problem was not in the switch but in the plastic hose from the tub to the switch. The hose was cracked and air/water leaked which therefore didn't activate the switch. I removed the top back cover to access the switch and released the hood of the machine, like a car, using a thin scaper to depress the spring loaded retaining clips. The hose was cracked at the tub just above the retainig clip. I bought new hosing at a local hardware store and replaced the switch to omit both of them as a future problem. Sell the tube with the switch as a package deal? Damage to tube may occur from violent, out of balance, spinning tub on spin cycle.

Water intermittently leaking from bottom of washer

  • Customer: Debbie from Colchester, CT
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 14 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
I could not tell where the leak was coming from. It was intermittent. Also the clothes were not getting totally dry in the spin cycle. Finally the drum stopped turning. The bearing in the waterpump was shot and the water was leaking from the waterpump. Luckily or unluckily, the bearing completely went and I then found out that the intermittent leaking was coming from the pump. I replaced the pump and the belt that was damaged when the pump bearing locked up. This has resolved the leaking issue.

loud hi pitched squeeling noise all the time.

  • Customer: Patrick from Accord, NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 15 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
Remove front panel and back service panel below water conn. lines. Put a 4" plastic box between the tub and inside of cabinet "directly opposite the spring to be removed to lower the tub to base for less opposing travel to unlatch spring from tub hook. Also took an old slotted screw driver w/ a blade about 1/4 " and grinded 1/8 from middle about an1/8" deep and used it to latch the spring when pushing it up and off the tub. Replaced all 6. Also did motor pivot spring. Tested and the it worked for one cycle, then the tub again just falls to the right as if the spring at 9 o'clock was broke and strains the belt drive but the spin cycle still works o.k. and the washer does not bang and walk away till you stop the machine. Thought the 6 tub springs would take care of both problems. Told that the snubber ring needs to be replaced. Never but another maytag again. JUst did the belt,a week later the water pump went then the springs.....

Pump was leaking

  • Customer: Christopher from Westwego, LA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 14 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
I felt extremely confident when purchasing the part because I say three diagrams which clearly showed I was ordering the correct part. 0. Drain all of the water out of the machine. 1. Remove the rear panel from the washer. 2. Use the pliers to disconnect the hoses from the pump. 3. Remove the three screwa from the old pump. 4. Support the washer with the block then take the belt off pulley. 5. Remove old pump. 6. put new pump in place then reconnect the pulley, you can remove the block.. 7. Install the three screws for the pump after you tighten it up by placing the pump over ther correct screw holes.. 8. Reconnect the two hoses using the clamps you removed. 9. Secure the rear panel and screw in place. 10. Wash clothes. EASY FIX!!!
All Instructions for the PAV2300AWW
46-60 of 517