NVLR333GE0CC Hotpoint Dryer - Instructions

It was pretty easy. After already taking apart the dryer to install a new belt I knew exactly my plan of action. I removed the two screws that hold the top panel of the dryer to the front panel. I then removed the top panel and removed the screws that hold the front to each side panel. I than pulled the front away from the cabinet and drum. I put the new slides in place and installed a new felt strip. I put it back together and that was that. Very easy.

Basically, I followed the same steps a prior person posted.
1.Removed the two screws inside the door, on the top part of the opening.
2.Lifted up and removed the top.
3.Removed two screws holding the front panel in place.
4.Held up the drum while removing the front panel. I carefully turned the panel so I could get at the drum bearing without pulling the wires connecting it to the front panel. The wires are not very long, so I had to be careful not to pull on them.
5.Carefully pried off the old drum bearing, using just my hands. It was fairly tight, and popped out just as I started to worry if I was putting too much pressure on it.
6.Checked to see how the old felt was installed, then I pulled out the old felt.
7.Inserted the new felt, being careful to insert one end into a slot the same way the original was installed.
8.Inserted the new slides into the new drum bearing. The gray slides went in at the eleven and one o'clock positions, the white slides went in at ten and two o'clock.
9.Removed a surplus plastic piece from the new drum bearing (where the light comes through).
10.Inserted the new drum bearing, putting the bottom tabs in first, then pivoting it into place. I squeezed it into place to make sure it was tight.
11.Lifted up the drum and put the front panel back on.
12.Screwed the front panel back on, using the two screws.
13.Carefully put the top back on.
14.Screwed in the two screws inside the front door to fasten down the top.
That was it! I started up the dryer and it worked fine. No more squeaking.
About the only thing odd about the repair is why PartSelect sells each slide separately (i.e., I had to order 2 white slides and 2 gray slides). I can't imagine replacing just one, so why not package them in pairs, or maybe even all four in one package.
At any rate, the repair was easy, and a lot cheaper than having someone come out to fix it.

Removed the front Dryer panel. Left drum in place and lifted it up slightly to get access to motor drive. Slipped belt in place and put panel back on.
This was a first attempt ever at fixing an appliance and it was no big deal.

Dear PartSelect.com,

My repair went off without a hitch.

2 screws removed to remove top.
4 screws removed from inside to remove front panel w/ door.
4 screws removed from top of control panel, loosed and popped top right off.
Flathead screwdriver to pop off old plastic panel.
Removed old wire chase (plastic, approx 3” long).
Removed built-up lint, wiped down area for new duct.
Snapped new duct on.
Dryer works like new!!
Took about 35 minutes, most of time spent cleaning up inside of dryer from lint due to broken duct.

One problem was that salesperson sold me on a new felt strip to go with new duct. That felt comes already installed on the new duct so I did not need it. Cost me a few extra dollars I did not need to spend.

Other than that, easy ordering, fast shipment, and parts are as close to original as possible.

Thanks for all your help!

It was actually my father, he doesn't use the internet. He thought that because the dyer got real hot and then shut off he thought the thermostat wasn't working and the high temp shutoff was okay. He went through the manual and found the part and took it out. He called the service number but they wanted $50 dollars plus shipping. I saw it was a Thermo-disc part so I tried the manufacture's website but I couldn't match the numbers on the back to their part numbers. I tried several other sites and your site was the cheapest. It was real easy to use the web site and diagrams to find the right schematic and part. I ordered it online and it was delivered in 2 days with the regular shipping. When he first put it in the dyer didn't turn on. He found no power coming out of the timer so he cleaned the contacts and it worked. Thanks for making the ordering so easy.

First I found and watched three videos on how to open the dryer and replace the igniter.
Then I opened the dryer, but I did not remove the belt as suggested in the video, and then I removed the ignitor and flame detecter as the videos had shown.
I got on-line and ordered the new parts from PartsSelect in the afternoon and had them in my hands the next morning by 9:30 am.
I installed the new parts and everything worked fine again. You must be very careful with the igniter to not touch it with hands or anything else. I practiced puting in the old parts first.

First I really had to hunt for the proper way to get my dryer drum accessible for the repair. With my model it was as simple as removing two screws to take off the top panel (located by opening the dryer door), and then removing two other screws inside the front panel at the top. The front will then be able to swing to the left side (the door switch wires are on this side for this model). Simply remove the drum bearing by gently pulling it off. My slides were in such poor shape for less than 4 years old!! One of them had completely disintegrated! These slides have a small whole on one end which attaches to a small nub at the edge of a slot while the other side just slid into a slot at the other end. No need to even take out the drum!!
The hardest part of the job was to get into the dryer!

The end repair was very simple and took minimal effort. The time and difficulty was all in the testing. I disassembled the dryer and removed the drum and then hard wired each thermo-fuse to determine where the fault was. After test all of those I was stumped. When I opened the door the light would not come on so I assumed it was a power fault closer to the source. However after all of my testing I couldn't find anything wrong. I then removed the light bulb and realized it was burned out which led me to the door switch being the fault. I removed the switch and soldered the three wire together and the dryer started right up! All I had to do was order a new $15 part, unsolder the wires and plug them in. Would have been so much simpler if that light bulb hadn't of been burned out causing me to over think my diagnosis. This was my first major appliance repair and I did it with only the help of the parts diagram provided on the website.

pulled out door striker anddoor latch out with pliers and just pushed in new parts. works like new in under a min.

First I unplugged the dryer and turned off the gas

Second I opened the door and unscrewed the two screws that go up into the top panel and hold it in place (you will need to get down and look under the top of the door jam to see the screws).

Third I lifted the front of the top enough to remove the two screws holding the front panel on (Use a magnetic screwdriver if you have one you do not want to lose the screws taking them out or putting them back in)

Fourth positioned a chair to lean front panel against so it would not fall over or strain the electrical wires that run to the switch in the door (slide the front panel off slowly supporting the drum with your hand so it doe not drop hard on the motor wires or burners)

Sixth determined the parts I needed and ordered parts from pars select and got them in two days

Seventh when new parts arrived I unclipped the old DRUM BEARING removed the felt gasket, put the felt in the new Drum bearing and clipped it in place

Eighth clipped in the 2 new Dryer Drum Slides and 2new SLIDE WH slides

Ninth Vacuumed out dryer and vent pipe completely

Tenth reassembled dryer being careful to make sure drum was properly aligned as I put the front panel in place and the belt was in the proper place on drum and all the screws were back in place.

Ninth turned gas back on and plugged in dryer

Ten turned on dryer to test squeak was gone

Hints as soon as you hear a squeak look into it and you will probably not have to replace the DRUM BEARING. But if any of the Slides are bad replace them all. Check your belt and felt gaskets to see if they are in good shape. If everything up front is in good shape and it is not the motor squeaking it could be the back drum bearing. Take your time keep your old dryer running for a few more years and save the $40 dollar service call. Do not forget to clean out all the old lint and dust out of your dryer and vent pipes not only will you reduce the risk of fire you will be allowing air to pass through the dryer more easily drying your clothes in shorter time.

Removed 4 screws from top of control panel , remove 2 from back to lossen top of dryer. Removed rear lower access cover,6 screws on back of dryer exposing pulley and tensioner, remove broken belt and vaccuumed out a ton of lint , removed pulley and tensioner and replaced. From the front remove 4 screws and take off front of dryer, disconnecting several wires, again vaccumed out lint, lifter drum evough to replace belt. Reassembled

I had to take most of the dryer apart because there is no rear access to the motor. It turned out to be easy to dissasembel the dryer. The only problem that I had was that I could not figure out how to route the belt around the motor and the idol pullies. I could not find anywhere that gave instructions on how to properly tension the belt. I finally figured out that the idoler pulley needs to be locked in place on the right side of the engie mount. Then the belt needs to be routed over idoler pulley and under the motor pulley. Finally release the idoler pully from the locked postion to put tension on the belt. It really turned out to be pretty easy.

This part arrived at our house two days after I ordered it. I was stunned by how quickly it arrived.

Our dryer was making a very annoying squeaking/rubbing noise while drying and it became worse as the outside temps dropped (it's winter)...colder air cooling the exhaust line, causing metal in dryer to contract more.

I called an appliance repair service and they said, "Honestly, your money is going to be better spent to just buy a new dryer. The bearings on these are a pain to replace."

Yeah, right.

I've never taken apart a dryer, but it took me less than 45 minutes to complete this repair and our dryer is back to normal. Total cost was $18, including shipping. A $300 savings versus buying a new dryer.

There is another description of the process for this part so I won't repeat it all.

I did it a little differently than most, namely I did not remove the dryer drum. I simply pulled it out about six inches (make sure and slide belt back as you inch out the drum). But first, unplug the dryer, then remove the top, then the front.

A Philips screwdriver will quickly remove the top of the dryer (two screws on inside front, where door closes) and the front face (two screws at top of front, inside face). Lift the front up about an inch and it is free. I had to disconnect a couple wires, just make sure you mark before you disconnect them.

With that done, the drum will pull straight toward you (out). Make sure and support the weight of the drum as you slide it out. I found no need to remove the drum.

At the rear inside of our drum, there are three Torx screws that hold the bearing assembly on. I have a pretty long reach so I just removed two of the Torx screws, then reached around the back of the drum while removing the third screw, to keep the bearing assembly from falling onto the floor behind the back of the drum.

This plastic bearing is held to the bearing shaft by a little o-ring. Just pull the o-ring off, slide off the old bearing, slide the new bearing on and replace the o-ring (if yours is broken, any home store will have one that will work as a replacement in their faucet repair department).

Reattach the bearing housing to the drum with the Torx screws (get all three started before you tighten any of them), slide the drum back in - make sure you slide the belt as you move the drum back in and support the weight of the drum so you don't bash the bearing assembly into the back of the dryer.

You're doing this part blind, but in a few seconds, you can guide the bearing back into the hole in the back wall of the dryer. It just slides into the hole, nothing fancy.

Put the front of the dryer back on. Then replace the top (I had to remove the five screws on top of the dial panel to give it some flex so the top would pop back into place without stressing the dial panel), plug the dryer back in, and fire it up.

45 minutes after this part arrived at our home, our dryer problems were gone. Now that I've done one, I could probably do it in 20 minutes the next time (it's that simple/easy). And we didn't need a new dryer. Makes me think I should have the appliance guy who told me we needed a new dryer to direct all of these "pain in the fanny" bearing replacements to me because I could charge someone $50 total for the repair and make good money.

Hope all this babble helps someone else who doesn't need a new dryer.

Pryed off the top with a flat head screwdriver and removed the 2 screws holding the front panel to the sides. Then lifted the front panel off of the bottom brackets. Belt fit perfectly and followed the provided instructions to loop it around the motor and pulley. PartSelect got the part to me within a couple of days and the repair was a snap.

I ordered parts based off other peoples findings. I took the top and front off the dryer. I found the drum bearing(really only a plastic bracket. The slide were completely worn and the drum was wearing into the plastic drum bearing. I popped the old drum bearing out and put the new on in. There are actually 2 sets of slides (4 total). I only bought 2. I reused two of the existing slides. I put the unit back together and it was a lot quieter. I need to order more of the slides. They are only a couple dollars a piece and take most of the beating. I should've but didn't get the pasking or gasket. It was broken. I think it'll be fine though.