Models > NAV2330AWW > Instructions

NAV2330AWW Amana Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for NAV2330AWW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the NAV2330AWW
31-45 of 138
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washer agitator fins snapped off

  • Customer: Paul from ATLANTIC HIGHLANDS NJ
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
I first took the fabric softener dispenser off and used
a ratchet wrench to take the nut off. I then removed
the agitator, put the new one on and reversed the process. It was extremely easy!

The spin belt burned up.

  • Customer: Tim from Ferron UT
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
To replace the belt:
First, unplug the appliance. No sense in poking and getting zapped.
Remove any water from the tub, if there is some, by running the washer through the end of the rinse cycle. This is the point of extracting water through the water pump.
Remove the bottom, front access panel by taking out the two screws at the bottom and sliding the panel down and out. It is held in place by metal clips at the top. So, it has to "unsnap" at the top.
Next, remove (by pulling out and up to disengage its hook) the left front stabilizer spring from the bottom of the outer tub. Pry it out with a screwdriver blade under the hook enough to release it from its hole in the frame. Once released, slide the hook along the lip of the frame towards the back of the washer and out of the way. Makes it easier to get back in if it is still stretched some. This allows it to be out of the way in order to remove the motor.
Disconnect the hoses attached to the discharge pump. Be sure to have a couple of towels handy for any water left in the lines. Place the towels directly under the hoses before disconnecting. Set the hoses to the side of the washer cabinet.
Loosen and remove the back (when looking at the motor from the front access) two bolts holding the motor support frame to the frame supporting the transmission.
Next, locate and remove the top two bolts holding the motor frame to the tub frame. Be sure to support the motor as the last bolt is removed so that it does not fall down.
Tilt the motor slightly to the left. Locate the wiring harness at the top left side of the motor. There is a plastic clip in the middle and on top of the wiring harness. Push down on the clip as you grasp the harness. This will release the clip's grip at the back of the harness and allow you to pull it out. Set the harness back behind one of the nearby tension springs to keep it out of the way.
Once the harness and bolts are removed, tilt the bottom of the motor towards you and pull down and out to clear the outer tub frame.
With the motor out, fiip it over and locate the three screws holding the pump in place. Using a #25 torx head screwdriver, remove the screws. The pump will now separate from motor. Visually check that the pump does not have an obstruction. Manual check by spinning the pump by hand. It should move freely.
Before installing the spin belt, clean the motor pulley of any residue.
Remove and replace the idler arm spring. Leave the spring attached to the arm only. Do not reattach it to its anchor point on the motor frame.
Install the spin belt, making sure that the belt is on either side of the pump's rear leg. (Rear leg being the leg 90 degrees counterclockwise to the pump outlet port.) Be sure that the idler arm pulley is able to apply pressure to the belt.
Reverse steps to put the pump, motor and springs back in place. Be sure to plug in the wiring harness before the motor is place back into position.
Tip: Leave the idler spring off until after the spin pulley is wound onto the helix pulley. You can reach around the motor from the right side and grasp the pulley. Spinning it slowly as you feed the belt will make it easier to get it back on.
Last, plug in the machine and give a Tim Allen ARH, ARH, ARH, Ugh?

Idler Pulley Wheel wasn't turning, causing belt to crack up due to heat build

  • Customer: ROBERT from Anaheim CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
Remove bottom and top front panel to access motor. Remove motor by loosening four bolts. Remove spring that applies pressure to the Idler pulley wheel. Pull out electrical connector by pressing on the tab on top. Remove rubber hoses by gripping clamps with pliers. Unhook belt from pulley at bottom of tub. Pull out motor. Push upward and inward the top of the tub to make pulling out the motor easier. Remove allen screws that secure the plastic pump housing so you can remove the belt. Replace belt. Remove retaining ring to replace Idler Pulley Wheel, remember to order replacement washers, mine was brittle and disintegrated so had to remove the second one from the bottom and used only one each side, seems to work fine. Reassemble everything in reverse order. It now purrs like a kitten, wife is now happy doing the laundry, I get to ride my motorcycle this weekend at the Los Angeles Crest Highway carving the canyons, whoohoo! Life is good.

Washer would not spin or aggitate

  • Customer: Paula from Jackson WY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
(UNPLUG APPLIANCE FIRST! )Used large flat bladed screwdriver to remove tub damper springs on front of tub.Then remomoved washer pump hoses after placing towel underneath to catch waste water.
Removed four bolts holding motor and pump assembly to tub pulled it forward slightly to remove motor electrical connector, turned assembly over to remove pump ("torx bit")
Intalled new belt being mindful of routing and idler pulley. Seems new belt is slightly longer requiring a little tension spring adjustment might have to replace it also. Washer now functions properly!

Washer went off balance and the flume broke off

  • Customer: Michelle from Jupiter FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 9 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the part that was still attached to the washer and installed the new flume. It took less than five minutes and a repair that would have cost over $85 cost less than $10 and I am no plumber!

Washer leaking water from the bottom.

  • Customer: Donald from Sierra Vista AZ
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Socket set
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Removed front panel.
Released 2 springs on belt tensioner.
Rolled drive belt off pulleys.
Unscrewed 4 bolts holding washer motor assembly.
Tilted motor to get at pump screws.
Removed 3 pump screws and pump slid right off shaft.
Aligned new pump and reinstalled screws.
Set motor assembly loosely in place.
Rolled drive belt onto pulleys.
Re-attached tension springs.
Installed motor assembly bolts.
Re-installed front panel.

** I should have replaced drive belt at same time, but it is working with no leaks.

Broken belt - lots of banging and noise

  • Customer: John from Avon OH
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set
  • 6 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
I searched "sav2655aww repair" (my model number) on the internet, and found people who had the same problem - and did the same repair. Some put up very detailed instructions.
Anyway, with instruction, it was a pretty easy job. Remove the front panels, disconnect the hoses from the water pump, unplug the electrical connector from the motor, remove the 4 bolts that hold the motor mount, and slip off what was left of the belt. To replace the belt, I also needed to temporarily remove the water pump (3 torx screws) from the motor, because the belt snaked in between those two parts. Once replaced, I remounted the motor, slipped the belt over the main wheel (under the tub), set the belt tension wheel to take up the slack, and reattached the hoses and wires. Surprisingly, the belt replacement took care of the noise (the whole unit would sway out and repeatedly hit the front panel during a wash - I suppose it wasn't agitating or spinning correctly). Works like new.

Unbearable Noise at spin cycle

  • Customer: Gregory from St Helens OR
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
Not only very loud at spin cycle, but started to leak water as well. Pulled lower front panel off and ran a load of clothes while laying on the floor with flashlight watching. Sure enough, water spraying out from outer tub bearing area.
Remove top front panel, sides and top, disconnect hoses and unplug wires at top of control panel, there is a plug in there. Now you should just have base unit and tub exposed so you have plenty of room to work. Next joy is to remove agitator. This is where my fun began. After removing fabric softner dispenser from top of agitator, I could not see bolt holding it on. There was a long plastic rod sticking up which looked like part of the agitator itself, so went online to a repairmans site and they said simply pull that rod out and bolt will be under it. Paid 24 bucks to them and still could not remove rod, ended up going thru slots in side of agitator with a small chisel and cutting it off, then took a 3/4" hole saw and drilled hole in top of agitator, its only about 1/8" thick and what do you know, THERE is the bolt!!!!!!! Removed bolt and out comes agitator. Next, remove cap from outer tub, take 4 bolts out of inner tub, remove inner tub. Next, remove plastic nut from shaft, I tried this with channelocks and could not budge it, ended up splitting nut with chisel and slightly damaged threads on shaft which I cleaned up easily with 60 degree thread file. Be very careful if you use this method. You can use channelocks to reinstall, just clamp on the unfinned part of nut.Take out the lint filter and throw in garbage, do not reinstall!!!!!! That filter is part of the reason tub bearing goes out!! Next, remove aluminum hub from shaft, mine was already loose so was easy. If yours is tight, screw in one of the old inner tub bolts almost all the way in and use hammer and punch to loosen. You can do the same for new one. Next, remove 6 bolts from outer tub and pull outer tub off shaft.Flip outer tub upside down and gently pry bearing out, mine came out easy as was spinning inside tub bearing fit. After cleaning everything I used Scotchseal 800 industrial sealant because bearing fit was loose. I made a clamp out of 1x2 wood and a long 1/4" bolt to hold bearing in tub to prevent it from pushing out, sometimes the sealant will cause this to happen, then I let it setup for 24 hours. Put it all back together, no leaks and SUPER quiet. Be sure and check your bottom bearing too while you have it all torn down, mine was fine. Do not forget to change O ring on spline shaft before reinstalling agitator. As far as the hole I drilled in agitator, just tapped it 1/2" pipe and screwed in a plastic pipe plug. You will need an extension and a 5/8" 12 point socket to do this.

Water constantly leaking in tub after cycles were complete.

  • Customer: Sharie from Panama City FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
Unplugged electric cord from wall receptical, pulled drain hose out of wall drain, removed both water hoses from back of washer, unscrewed the metal plate that is around the water outlets from the back of the washer first and then from the valve itself. I pulled the part as far out of the washer as I could and removed the wire connectors from hot and cold side of valve, then used pliers to loosen clamp from around the rubber hose coming from inside the washer making sure not to drop the clamp down into the backside of the washer. Repeated all of those steps in reverse to reconnect the new valve and shizzam! No more leaking inside the tub when cycles are complete! Who says a girl can't fend for herself? Once again..thank you to "PartSelect" for guiding me in the right direction and saving us a lot of money :)

Seal on water pump was leaking

  • Customer: Douglas from Spring TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set
  • 4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
Unplug the washer to prevent shock while handling motor. Remove the front botton access panel. Move the drive belt off the idler pulley to provide slack to move belt off the other pulleys. Note position or take picture of belt position before removal to aid in getting it in the correct position for reinstallation. Move the hose clamps up the hoses far enough to remove the hoses from the pump. A towel is handy here as there is still a little water in the hoses and pump. Remove the four bolts holding the motor bracket to the bottom of the washer. The wiring to the motor does not need to be disconnected. Rotate the bracket with motor and pump attached so that the assembly is horizontal and the pump is to the right hand side. Use the torx bit to remove the bolts holding the pump in place. Install the new pump, being careful to get the drive belt in the proper position while doing so. Do not over tighten the bolts on the new pump since it is plastic. Rotate the motor bracket back to its original position and install the four bolts. Get all four bolts installed loosely before tightening any fully to insure the bracket is aligned properly and none of the bolts will be in a bind. Once the bolts are tight, put the drive belt on the small pulley and then work in around to position on the large pulley. Position the belt back into its position on the idler pulley. Put the hoses on the pump as far as they will go then slide the hose clamps back into their original position. Replace the bottom access panel and plug the washer back in.

Broken fins on agitator.

  • Customer: John from Douglassville PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
I went ot the Parts Select web site, and read what other people had done with the same problem. The advice was right on. Using the paper towel to hold the screw in place during reassembly ws great advice. Thanks for the heads- up.

The auger section of this part would no longer stay attached to the lower agitator part due to prior repair work

  • Customer: John from Ava MO
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
Use a blade to pop off the fabric softener dispenser cup. Use socket and extension to unscrew the single hex bolt that attaches the assembly to the shaft. Lift off the assembly and recover the flat washer. Install the new assembly over the shaft and install the original hex bolt and washer. Tighten firmly. Snap the dispenser cup back in place.

leaking from pump

  • Customer: James from Montgomery IL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
removed hoses from pump, removed 4 screws holding motor housing to washer, disconnected wiring from motor. It will make your life easier to re-assemble if you pay attention to how belt is located in relation to the legs of the pump. pump came off motor very easily. I had the old pump out and the new pump in and working in about 30 minutes.

The agitator moved in slow motion at regular setting

  • Customer: Alvin W. from Reidsville NC
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Wrench set
  • 4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
took off the front cover.
disconected the wiring from moter.
removed the motor.
replaced the brake pads one at a time used a flat screw driver to spred the plates apart.

The Plasatic Helix Drive Lup
took bolt at the botom of shaft off
this released the Helix drive lug.
took old lug off and inatalled new
replaced bolt and washer.

Pump seized and belt burnt

  • Customer: Mark from Maxbass ND
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
Disconnect power and water, opened up front end by removing four self-tapping screws, removed the electric motor assembly from frame of machine, replace pump and belt and reassembled.
All Instructions for the NAV2330AWW
31-45 of 138