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MZD2766GEW Maytag Refrigerator - Instructions

All installation instructions for MZD2766GEW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the refrigerator repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the MZD2766GEW
91-105 of 826
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Broken Enclosure

  • Customer: Roger from Skiatook OK
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
This was not a difficult project at all.
I removed the ice bin and then unplugged the wiring hareness.
With the old enclosure removed I first removed all of the screws holding the solenoid (look at the way it is mounted before removing all screws). I then removed the drive motor for the ice crusher/dispenser.
The yoke on the drive motor has a left hand thread.
Grip the motor shaft behind the yoke with a thin pair of channel locks or pliers and tap on the yoke in a counterclockwise direction with a small hammer to loosen and remove the yoke.
I then reattached the motor and reinstalled the yoke and then reinstalled the solenoid.
It was a bit of a trick to plug in the wiring harness, but if you use a small mirror you can do it with ease.
Be sure and align the drive motor yoke with the couple on the ice bin at a 90 degrees from the yoke on the motor. Also make sure the dispensing mechanisim on the ice bin moves freely. If not remove all ice from the bin and locate where the ice is jammed and remove it.
Trust me this will save the new enclosure you just installed.

The round door on my ice chute broke off

  • Customer: Stanley from Avon IN
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
I ordered the ice dispenser and selenoid door kit, it was easy to repair because I only needed the door. As per the instructions I removed about seven screws and disconnected the power source to the dispenser unit, pulled the unit out
and replaced the door in the two slots. Plugged the power source back into the slot, put the screws back in, now it works like new.
Thank you PartSelect, I received the part in just a couple of days. I recommend your service to everyone. I saved myself a lot of money and will order again on any needed
parts in the future.

refrigerator and freezer not cold enough

  • Customer: Greg from Williamstown NJ
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
I don't know anything about repairing a refrigerator - I'm a computer tech. I noticed that the outside of the fridge was warm to the touch and the inside was not getting as cold as it should. I took the lower back panel behind the fridge off and noticed that the fan was not spinning. The local parts dealers did not have the condenser fan motor that was needed but they did say that they do go bad. I decided to order one from PartSelect.com and do it myself. Using a 1/4 inch nut driver and a flat head screw driver to pry the old motor out of the casing, I got the job done in about an hour or so. It's a relativly easy job. Besides the ouside panel screws, there's 3 screws on the inside near the fan blades you have to reach in to get. Pop out the whole assembly, unscrew the nut that holds the blades on and pry out the old motor and replace.. Try it yourself and save a couple hundred bucks!

Hollow Ice Cubes, Stuck Icemaker & no more cubes

  • Customer: Jonathan from Scottsdale AZ
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 6 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
We have a Reverse Osmosis water filter supplying the fridge, so the internal water filter only served to reduce the water pressure inside the unit. I installed the bypass plug by simply twisting and removing the internal water filter and then twisting the plug up into the same hole. Done in 5 min.
Longest part of this was clearing the top shelf to reach back there... Oh, and figuring out that this part exists and that it could help with the problems we were having with the unit. The water filter is relatively new, less than six months, but it still contributed to the problem enough to cause the failure.
[Thank you Partselect.com for having this web database set up that gets EXACTLY the right part!].

Now about the hollow cubes: Do a web search and you'll find a lot of discussion about it. This is specific to the Whirlpool (Maytag, and others) newer style front to back icemakers that create "half moon" shaped icecubes. For a Shop Manual to a web search for 4316835.pdf for this series.
No doubt my old unit's icemaker solenoid valve on the back isn't passing as much pressure as it did new, but by itself it isn't fatal just yet. You can tell if you are vulnerable to this if the water spigot on the front only delivers a very slow trickle of water; if it takes a l o n g t i m e to fill a glass.

But here is the rest of the story: There is a fundamental design flaw in the way the icemaker unit was created that makes it malfuntion if the water pressure is too low - they chose to put the thermocouple (TC) that senses the temperature of the freezing cube on the opposite end (front) of the water tray from the water fill tube which fills from the rear. This was probably a manufacturing trade off for simplicity of assembly and it saved them half a cent's worth of copper wiring and a couple of screws. And maybe a safty concern about wiring under an open water channel, but that is a lousy excuse; there are other solutions, and the power "harness" goes right by there within a couple of inches anyway...

There are a number of reasons for low pressure:
- Bad supply inlet valve, or not open all the way, crimped tubing
- Bad Frige icemaker solenoid valve
- Clogged internal water filter (even just a little)
- Frozen ice plug in the fill tube, in the very back top of the unit against the back (use a hair dryer to defrost)
- Etc. Do some more web research for more details.
Of course the icemaker timers do fail as well, so this discussion assumes the icemaker is still functioning as "normally" as it can, given its design limitations.

The interaction with water pressure (design flaw!) is this: if the unit doesn't get enough water due to low pressure, then the final cube position to fill doesn't get any water in it (the front one by the motor). This is the one that the TC is next to as well, so it cools of really quickly and the TC thinks the tray is completely frozen, when in fact it isn't. The TC fires the cycling motor which turns on the heater and then spins the ejector shaft which has tabs that push the half moon shaped cubes around and out. However, since the cubes weren't fully frozen, only their outer shell gets pushed out - the water in the middle drains out leaving a hollow cube set. That liquid water hits the cold ejector bars and some of it immediately freezes, making little stalactite fingers that catch on the tabs and side of the tray, thus jamming the ejector shaft and pausing the cycle in place indefinitely.
The net is that you get a few hollow cubes and then no more ice until you reach in and crack off the ice fingers so shaft tabs can pass and the motor can finsh the cycle and properly stop in its home position. You can also tell by checking whether the front cube location has water in it just after it fills by reaching around and dipping your finger in it. If it comes up dry, then you have this problem.
So, in my case, putting the bypass plug in increased my flow t

The ice maker stopped making ice.

  • Customer: Thomas from Cupertino CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
I did a few tests with the old ice maker and determined that it was the ice maker itself that was faulty. The replacement part I ordered exceeded my expectations in the time it took to get the part. I reused the arm, wire harness and clamps from the old icemaker. Then it was a simple install into the bottom freezer compartment, turning on the water supply and bingo...lots of ice cubes.

frig got warm, compressor would not turn on, heard clicking noise

  • Customer: Jeff from Cherry Hill NJ
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
googled for answer, deduced relay/switch problem. googled again for parts, found partselect.com, ordered part. 2 days later & $70 lighter, my 8yr old Maytag was working again! Parts were good fit, instructions were decent enough. Not for inexperienced tinkerer though.

Icemaker would not fill with water.

  • Customer: Linford from Cedarville NJ
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 5 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
Removed screw under ice maker. Tilted ice maker up to remove unit from upper two screws. Disconnected plug at rear of freezer. Attached wiring harness, baler arm and cover from old to new ice maker. Reinstalled in reverse order. Had ice within one hour. Very easy fix.

Ice chute door won't close tightly

  • Customer: Thomas from San Diego CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
First unplug AC power from the back of the refrigerator and I then removed entire fountain bracket assy that hold by 3 screws. Pull toward with some angle to able to access to a plug of wires and then disconnect it. Pull fountain assy downward. Set it on work place, remove all screws and transfer wires, switch, ice dispenser controller unit,solenoid, spring, flapper...and then install them to a new fountain bracket. Please note that this problem is 100% relating to mechanism. To test this work: Hold Fountain bracket assy vertically, press a flapper,position "open" and make sure return spring is working properly (enough pressure) . Now, install this unit back to my refrigerator. During installing screws, check flapper that can shut tightly enough and secure all screws, check a flapper again. I got it right for the third time because I was not aware of some parts alignment.

Freezer worked fine but the Refrig. wasn't getting cold

  • Customer: Lucy from Menifee CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
My husband first replaced the Defrost heater and the fridge still didn't stay cold. We had to defrost the freezer once a week and the fridge would stay cold for a few days, but after we replaced the Thermostat Assembly it worked GREAT! Thank you all for your comments and suggestions it saved us hundreds of dollars having to replace an, otherwise, perfectly fine fridge. Good luck to you if you have this problem, it was sooo fast and easy to replace these parts and totally worth the money.

My old icemaker lost some of the nonstick surface and the ice didn't want to come out

  • Customer: Thomas from Ruth MI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
I unhooked the wire harness from the ref. and took out three screws and pulled the old unit out. I than changed a few parts from the old icemaker to the new and reattached the new ice maker to the ref. and plugged the wire back in. everything is working fine. No problems. Also I was very happy with the ordering process. Thank you!!

Replacing the bulb in the freezer side

  • Customer: Yafa (and David) from Bothell WA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.

Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.

The in-door water dispenser was dripping.

  • Customer: Denny from Westminster CO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
I reasoned that the water-value was caked with hard water deposits, or perhaps just worn out. I traced the plastic water line to the back of unit, then found the double water valve. I was not "sure" that this was the problem, but I order the part any way and it fixed it!! The removal /installation was pretty easy. First turn off the water supply to the unit. Then loosen and remove the incoming copper pipe from the unit. Remove just two 1/4 in. hex head screws and carefully pull the unit out a bit. Then remove the electrical connectors and the plastic tubing connectors. Just do the reverse to install it. I am very happy with the item ordered from PartsSelect. Perfect. And shipping time was fast too. Thanks guys.

Refrigerator not cooling, freezer thawing but cold.

  • Customer: Thomas from Queensbury NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 5 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the back lower panel within the freezer compartment. The cooling fan which draws cold air from the evaporator unit was functioning fine. I then unplugged the unit.
The evaporator unit was frozen in a block of ice. I removed all food contents from both the freezer and the refrigerator, moving them to a back-up refrigerator. I then allowed the radiator to thaw completely overnight. Upon restarting the unit it became cold within an hour thus I new the compressor was fine. I surmised it must be a defrost issue. I then unconnected the defrost heater and thermostat assembly. The device was easy to remove. I then routed the wire of the new assembly on the side of the evaporator unit and clipped the thermostat back onto the cooper feed, plugged the unit into the connection. Next I turned my attention to replacing the adaptive defrost timer. In the top of the refrigerator compartment, I removed the plastic shroud, by sliding back and pushing the plastic clips in. I took out 4 screws holding the unit to the ceiling of the refrigerator. Slowly lowering this, I could see the adaptive defrost timer in the right rear corner. I simply unplugged the unit and replaced with a new unit. I replaced both items although I am unsure which was not working. Refrigerator is working fine now.

Back of the Ice Enclosure was broken so motor drive for ice despincer was pushed in

  • Customer: Neil from Webster MA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the 1 screw holding the Ice Enclosure in place. The enclosure would then pull out. However the wire in back was plugged in and you could not see how the female plug was locked to the male plug. By squeezing the top and bottom edges of the plug you will release the lock and plug will release with a pull.
Then I removed the unit from fridge.
after removing the 8 screws holding the motor and other fixture, I tried to install in replacement enclosure.
unfortunately, the u-drive that is attached to the gear box shaft and is used to turn the Ice despincer worm, was on so tight I could not remove it. (tried everything)
I then took a Dremal tool with disc cutter and where the shaft hole is I cut a rectangular hole large enough for the u-drive to fit through. Be careful not to cut the plastic braces behind the panel.
The motor and gear box then fits in the slots and you can screw in place.
Note: the green ground wire and red wire are tape together. the ground wire to gorund a red wire to closest terminal. White wire to terminal on bottom.
Slid unit part way back in freezer, reach in back and connect plug. (only connects one way)
Then slide rest of the way in, insert screw to hold in place. Good Luck, mine works great.

cool was freezing up causing ther fridge to get warm

  • Customer: richard from north berwick ME
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
1.Pulled all ther baskets and shelves out of freezer and unplugged unit.
2. Using a nut driver remove screws holding coil covers in place on the back wall.
3.Use a hair dryer to fully defrost the coil in the freezer allowing you to unplug the electrical connector and take the thermastat control switch off the cooling tube.
4. Pull out aluminum pin between coils holding heater coil in place on right side.
5. Remove black foam insert on right side to allow removal of coil wires
6. reverese to reinstall
* Note this heater replacemnet coil did not fix my problem. I consulted a Maytag Repairman who told me to relace it..well he was wrong so I further researched the problem and found my problem was the ADCB inside the refrigarator. I strongly suggest you replace this part first and wait 8-12 hours and recheck the condensor coil. Some frosting will occur but tha ADC ( automatic defrost control board will cause the defrost heater to come on at all diffrent times according to your usage of the appliance. total cost was under 100.00 to replace the heater coil and ADCB. A bargin compared to the $400-$500 the Maytag guy would charge to do the same.
All Instructions for the MZD2766GEW
91-105 of 826