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MZD2766GEB Maytag Refrigerator - Instructions

All installation instructions for MZD2766GEB parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the refrigerator repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the MZD2766GEB
61-75 of 795
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Ice maker stopped working

  • Customer: Ronald from Chardon OH
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Since I had no water in the try I started with the valve first. That did not fix the problem so I replaced the Ice Maker assembly however that still didn't solve my problem. The only thing left was the relay that entergized the valve. The part number shows NLA so I googled the part number on the relay and found one at Mouser Electronics under PN:G2R-1A-T-AC120. The whole project took me several days to solve however the actual time involved was only about 1 hour.

refrigerator would not cool but freezer worked fine

  • Customer: sylvia from dawsonville GA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the plastic housing inside the top of the rerigerator. Next I removed one hex head screw on the right side that screwed into the back wall using a 1/4 inch nut driver and I removed four hex head screws that screwed up through the temperature control unit into the top. There were two phillips head screws that had to be loosened, but not removed, that also scewed up through the assembly. After the hex head screws were removed, the whole assembly pulls out about an inch then drops down. Once it's down you can remove the adaptive defrost circuit board in the right rear corner of the unit. It's fixed! Thanks

Water dispenser not flowing properly and ice cubes were hollow.

  • Customer: Darren from Saint Jacob IL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the water filter located in the refrigerator and replaced it with the bypass plug. The ice cubes and the water dispenser work properly . I am pleased with the outcome especially the price was only $15 and less than 5 minutes of my time. Maytag recommends replacing the water filter every six months at $40 a filter. One can see how this will add up in time. Eventually I am installing an after market water filter in line prior to the refrigerator.

No ice

  • Customer: Jon from Boise ID
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 8 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
1 screw remove assembly. Unplug cable harness and remove old cover and wire arm. Replace cover and wire arm and attach wire harness on assembly end. Re attach using screw removed in first step. Plug in wire harness. Making ice within 30 minutes.

Hollow Ice Cubes, Stuck Icemaker & no more cubes

  • Customer: Jonathan from Scottsdale AZ
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 8 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
We have a Reverse Osmosis water filter supplying the fridge, so the internal water filter only served to reduce the water pressure inside the unit. I installed the bypass plug by simply twisting and removing the internal water filter and then twisting the plug up into the same hole. Done in 5 min.
Longest part of this was clearing the top shelf to reach back there... Oh, and figuring out that this part exists and that it could help with the problems we were having with the unit. The water filter is relatively new, less than six months, but it still contributed to the problem enough to cause the failure.
[Thank you Partselect.com for having this web database set up that gets EXACTLY the right part!].

Now about the hollow cubes: Do a web search and you'll find a lot of discussion about it. This is specific to the Whirlpool (Maytag, and others) newer style front to back icemakers that create "half moon" shaped icecubes. For a Shop Manual to a web search for 4316835.pdf for this series.
No doubt my old unit's icemaker solenoid valve on the back isn't passing as much pressure as it did new, but by itself it isn't fatal just yet. You can tell if you are vulnerable to this if the water spigot on the front only delivers a very slow trickle of water; if it takes a l o n g t i m e to fill a glass.

But here is the rest of the story: There is a fundamental design flaw in the way the icemaker unit was created that makes it malfuntion if the water pressure is too low - they chose to put the thermocouple (TC) that senses the temperature of the freezing cube on the opposite end (front) of the water tray from the water fill tube which fills from the rear. This was probably a manufacturing trade off for simplicity of assembly and it saved them half a cent's worth of copper wiring and a couple of screws. And maybe a safty concern about wiring under an open water channel, but that is a lousy excuse; there are other solutions, and the power "harness" goes right by there within a couple of inches anyway...

There are a number of reasons for low pressure:
- Bad supply inlet valve, or not open all the way, crimped tubing
- Bad Frige icemaker solenoid valve
- Clogged internal water filter (even just a little)
- Frozen ice plug in the fill tube, in the very back top of the unit against the back (use a hair dryer to defrost)
- Etc. Do some more web research for more details.
Of course the icemaker timers do fail as well, so this discussion assumes the icemaker is still functioning as "normally" as it can, given its design limitations.

The interaction with water pressure (design flaw!) is this: if the unit doesn't get enough water due to low pressure, then the final cube position to fill doesn't get any water in it (the front one by the motor). This is the one that the TC is next to as well, so it cools of really quickly and the TC thinks the tray is completely frozen, when in fact it isn't. The TC fires the cycling motor which turns on the heater and then spins the ejector shaft which has tabs that push the half moon shaped cubes around and out. However, since the cubes weren't fully frozen, only their outer shell gets pushed out - the water in the middle drains out leaving a hollow cube set. That liquid water hits the cold ejector bars and some of it immediately freezes, making little stalactite fingers that catch on the tabs and side of the tray, thus jamming the ejector shaft and pausing the cycle in place indefinitely.
The net is that you get a few hollow cubes and then no more ice until you reach in and crack off the ice fingers so shaft tabs can pass and the motor can finsh the cycle and properly stop in its home position. You can also tell by checking whether the front cube location has water in it just after it fills by reaching around and dipping your finger in it. If it comes up dry, then you have this problem.
So, in my case, putting the bypass plug in increased my flow t

Ice bucket auger yoke was stripped out and turned freely

  • Customer: James from Pineville LA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the ice bucket from the freezer. Removed the single screw on the left side with a nut driver, then lift and pull the tray toward you...there is a wiring harness in back of the tray that I had to unplug...easy, pinch the sides of the plastic connector and it disconnects..and the tray came out of the refrigerator...and the cussing started. Since the threaded yoke was stripped it could not be unscrewed from the motor shaft...I took my trusty Dremel Tool and cut the shaft off so the yoke could be separated from the motor shaft and the motor could be removed from the plastic housing. From here on it was a piece of cake...install the new motor and screw the new yoke onto the motor shaft... I think it has a left handed thread, like the old propane bottles used to have..slide the tray back in, reconnect the wiring harness (it only plugs in one way), make sure the tray is sitting on the 4 side supports, put the single screw on the left side and you are done....put the ice bucket back in and flip the bail down and you should be back on business....!!

The relay had burnt up.

  • Customer: Jacob from Glennville GA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
I Removed the two wires from the old relay. I Then pulled the old relay off the compressor. Next, I had to get the overload seperated from the old burnt relay, which took some care not to break. The old relay and overload is in a plastic compartment. Then I followed the directions that came with the new relay. The only confusion came with getting the two wires back onto the terminals of the new relay, mainly because the old relay was burnt so badly I didn't have any idea how it was originally wired. I crossed the two wires on the terminals of the relay. The compressor would click off and on, but would not start blowing cold air. I swapped the wires on the terminals and it started working immediately.

door was not shutting and sealing

  • Customer: james from street MD
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
took off door and replaced parts and replaced door

Needed to replace filter

  • Customer: Phyllis from University Place WA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
1/4 turn of old filter. it popped out. Inserted new filter, 1/4 turn and it clicked in. Piece of cake. I'm a freakin' genius.

Ice maker not dispensing ice

  • Customer: Travis from Westchester CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
Removed about 6 screws. Replaced the solenoid and door kit. Replaced the screws. These parts were easy to replace. They were also super easy to identify and order from the site. I received them two days after I placed my order.
Thanks partselect.com!

Ice maker over flowing

  • Customer: ben from manhattan KS
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
My ice maker was overflowing and i realized that it was the water valve that needed replaced. unscrewed 1 nut, unhooked 3 water lines, unhooked electrical components and re-installed in reverse order. took about 10-15 mins.

Ice maker leaked water

  • Customer: Robert from Pennsylvania Furnace PA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 7 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Overall, replacing the ice maker wasn't too bad but it wasn't nearly as easy for me as it seems to have been for some. In my case, the fridge was an Amana and the ice maker was mounted in such a way that disconnecting the power connector was difficult. The ice maker had to be completely dismounted before any access to the power connector was even possible. The short power cables made it very difficult to get the ice maker into a position where I had a good view of the power connector enabling me to see how to release it. The only other challenge was the cup that the water line goes into. The replacement ice maker did not come with the right cup - the instructions said to replace the provided one with the old one. No instructions for this procedure were provided and it looked to me like it might involve significant disassembly, something I wanted to avoid for fear of breaking a plastic part on the new ice maker (something I had already done when disassembling the old ice maker). So instead of replacing the cup, I modified the new one to match the old one. This involved removing a cutout on one side and covering a hole on the other. Installation of the new ice maker went fine and the water leak problem was fixed.

replace water filter

  • Customer: Richard from Williamsburg VA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 7 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Unscrewed old filter and screwed in new filter.

The Shaft of the Auger Drive Motor Became Stripped

  • Customer: Anthony from Amenia ND
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 7 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the one nut screw holding the Ice bucket shelf then removed the Ice Auger Container. Then I lifed the Part containing the Drive Motor. I removed the electrical connection which just plugs into the fridge. Once the Drive motor and container was out of the fridge I removed 4 screws and the Drive motor was out. I disconnected 3 electrical connectors and connected them to the new drive motor. Then replaced the motor and connected the 4 screws. I then installed the yolk on the drive shaft and then put the drive motor container back in the fridge and reconnected the electrical. Installed the nut screw and I was done.

not cold enough refrig. side

  • Customer: Ross from River Grove IL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
These so called factory trained techs, at least the ones that looked at my fridge don't know jack. I explained my problem, they replaced T-Stat refridge side, onother time they replaced door gasket, still not cold enough, found your website,
got all the answers. Ordered and installed,defrost
heater and T stat assy and adaptive defrost control. Remove shelves freezer side, remove evaporator cover 1/4" nutdriver ,defrost with hair
drier, unsnap elec. connector and relaced part.
The ADC, removed screws mounted on roofside
was able to lower plastic panel enough to unplug
the ADC, it just laid there, removed and replaced.
Don't know which part was bad, but I do know that
they are interconnected, at this point I din't care to defrost manually which I did for the last 7 months.
Thanks for your guidance. USMC Ross
All Instructions for the MZD2766GEB
61-75 of 795