MZD2665HES Maytag Refrigerator - Instructions

Took lower plate out then removed two screws. Unhooked electronic control board and remove board by removing two small screws. Disconnected wires and replaced with new board. Front cover plate was replaced as the "water - crush - cube buttons on face plate had cracked. Replaced front cover with new plate - used a little glue to keep the small buttons in place. Now we can select all three items and it is working fine.

Removed two screws and took off water dispenser front panel. Unplugged wires to old control board and removed it from brackets holding it to inside of dispenser panel. Aligned and pushed new control (with care to only touch the outside edges of board...cannot touch circuitry which will permanently damage it). Was tricky aligning the board and snapping it back on, but finally got it in place. Repositioned dispenser panel and reattached two screws.
Second problem was the Chute and chute seal had broken off from the hinge chute so it wouldn't open or close when dispensing ice. Was pretty tricky to realign the chute seal to the hinge, but with some paitence and manipulation, was able to reconnect them.
I am REALLY impressed with the detailed drawings I found on PartSelect.com's website. Without these drawings it would have been difficult for me (my husband and son put the parts in, I did the ordering) to know what parts to order. Service was EXCELLENT. I would definitely do business with this company again. Great work!

1.Unplug refrigerator and remove dispenser cup floor plate. 2.Remove two hex head screws.
3.Remove electronics board phillips head screw.
4.disconnect actuator switch from dispenser.
5.Remove electronics board.
6.Reverse the order on the new Facade and attach Facade insert-black

Removed door. Removed old cam closure assembly. Noticed that there was almost nothing inside the door for screw to screw into(only styrofoam insulation), which is why original screw backed out. Bad design. Got longer screw at bigger diameter. Pushed high strength glue into hole, on screw threads, and underneath screw head. Assembled. Crossed fingers. About three weeks have passed and so far, so good.

Empty freezer to find defrost thermostat, turned off refrigerator, waited for ice to melt. Unpluged unit. Clipped lead wires to thermostat. Trimmed excsess wire on new defrost thermostat, installed butt connector(with heat shrink) to thermostat and then to leads in refrigerator. Heated connector until heat shrink, shrunk down around wires. Let it run for a few days to see if everything was working...and then button it back up.

noticed the fridge and frezzer were not cold one day.i got on google and typed in the problem and found out the the relay goes bad rather often. was an easy fix. found the parts here on partselect and recieved in with in 2 days of ordering. pulled the old part out put new part in and plugged fridge in and was back up and running with in minutes..thank you partselect....

first I removed the panels to see if the coils were getting frosty . Then I noticed that the fan was not spinning. I tested voltage to the fan and it was hot. I ordered the new fan put it in placve and, voila!.
Fixed my fride for under 50 bucks

Popping out the broken switch was easy once I was able to see how the new switch part was engineered. The switch was made to be replaced, having a simple tension hook on the bottom of the switch which needed to be depressed to pull the switch out of the cabinet. Once pulled out, there were modular plugs for the power line that were easy to pull off the broken switch and plug into the new switch. Pop the new switch back in and VOILA, the lights worked again! Thanks to part select's good diagrams of the actual model of my refrigerator, it was very easy to hone in on the exact part I needed. I did notice one problem with the order as the correct series for the part was displayed earlier in the process, but had the wrong series later in the process. However,. I trusted the system and the part is for the right series and fit well (an exact match, down to the color). Thanks Part Select, I would definitely use you again.

(1) Removed the three screws which attached the ice maker to the freezing compartmnet wall in refrigerator; (2) Disconnected the power to the old ice maker; (3) Removed the old ice maker from the freezing compartment of the refrigerator; (4) Took the white front cover off of the old ice maker; (5) Disconnected the wiring harness from the old ice maker; (6) Removed the "ice making-stop arm" from the old ice maker; (7) Placed the items taken from old ice maker on to the new ice maker; (8) Reconnected the new ice maker to the power; (9) Placed the new ice maker in the proper position in freezing compartment of refrigerator and replaced the three screws. JOB DONE!

Pop loose the plastic grate at the bottom.

Locate and remove the wheel leveling screw from the front bottom corner.

Remove cotter pin from the pin that mounts the wheel assembly to the refrigerator. Tap out the mounting pin.

Lift out the wheel assembly.

Remove the Roller pin from the wheel assembly. I used a Dremel tool with a cutting disk. A hack saw will also probably work.

Install the new roller pin and wheel into the wheel assembly. Use a hammer or vice to peen over the end of the roller pin.

Reinstall and adjust wheel assembly.

Lower the filter bottom housing to gain access to the filter. Unscrew the filter and install the bypass cap. Secure the lower filter housing to the top assembly.

I called a repair man from a pretty large name to come out and take a look. He found out in about 10 minutes that it was a bad capacitor. The quote he gave me was $75 for the part and $175 labor. I tried my best not to laugh and tell him no thank you. He did have to charge me for him to show up, which was only $98.
So I used what he told(minus the "scrap it") and opened it back up. Although he had left wires everywhere and the broken pieces laying inside, I thought it was enough for me to order the part. PartSelect was very easy to navigate and ordering was a breeze. Took about 4 days to get the part and I ordered in the X-mas craze. Fixed it in about 15 minutes.

It is simple, unscrew the old screw in the new one.

removed the old valve from back of fridge by removing screws that held mounting plate. removed water lines by pushing in on quick connects and pulling hoses out. A little different type of connections. installed new valve and pushed hoses into connections making sure that they snaped in. reinstalled screws and checked for leaks. took about 15 minutes!

I searched in line for a replacement fill valve and easily found it on your site w/ excellent diagrams. I turned off the frig., & the part came out simply and logically first removing the 5 screws that hold it in w/ a nut driver. Then remove the supply water line and the other quick connect lines that feed the ice maker and the chilled water dispenser. Then, disconnect the two wire harnesses that clip off easily by hand. They feed the two relays in the valve and are color coded. Remove the valve and reverse the procedure to hook it back up. Note: a little water will come out of the lines so be ready w/ a small bowl and a dish towel. After installing the new part, it was necessary to "bleed" the water lines of air by drawing a few glasses of water from the water dispenser to get the system operating normally again. One tool, common sense, 30 minutes. Probably saved $150 + on a repair man plus parts markup. Thanks very much!!