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Models > MTB2156DEW > Instructions

MTB2156DEW Maytag Refrigerator - Instructions

All installation instructions for MTB2156DEW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the refrigerator repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the MTB2156DEW
31-45 of 499
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Ice maker leaked water

  • Customer: Robert from Pennsylvania Furnace, PA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 10 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
Overall, replacing the ice maker wasn't too bad but it wasn't nearly as easy for me as it seems to have been for some. In my case, the fridge was an Amana and the ice maker was mounted in such a way that disconnecting the power connector was difficult. The ice maker had to be completely dismounted before any access to the power connector was even possible. The short power cables made it very difficult to get the ice maker into a position where I had a good view of the power connector enabling me to see how to release it. The only other challenge was the cup that the water line goes into. The replacement ice maker did not come with the right cup - the instructions said to replace the provided one with the old one. No instructions for this procedure were provided and it looked to me like it might involve significant disassembly, something I wanted to avoid for fear of breaking a plastic part on the new ice maker (something I had already done when disassembling the old ice maker). So instead of replacing the cup, I modified the new one to match the old one. This involved removing a cutout on one side and covering a hole on the other. Installation of the new ice maker went fine and the water leak problem was fixed.

Single Outlet Water Valve would'nt shut off completely.

  • Customer: Harold from Oakton, VA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Wrench set
  • 11 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
Start: UNPLUG THE REFRIGERATOR FROM POWER! Then -

1. Shut off water supply to ice maker.

2. Remove panel from back of refrigerator to expose single outlet water valve.

3. Disconnect water supply line from single outlet water valve.

4. Remove single outlet water valve from refrigerator (one screw).

5. Disconnect water line from the ice maker side of the single outlet water valve.

6. Reconnect the water line from the icemaker side of the old valve to the new single outlet water valve.

7. Re-attach the new single outlet water valve (with water line leading to the ice maker attached) to the refrigerator.

8. Reconnect the water supply line to the single outlet water valve.

9. Turn on the water and check for leaks.

10. Replace panel covering single outlet water valve at back of refrigerator.

Finish: PLUG THE REFRIGERATOR BACK INTO POWER.

Torn door gasket - cold air leaks out

  • Customer: David from Agawam, MA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Socket set
  • 9 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
The repair goes much easier if the door is removed. The door is bulky and that's the difficult part. Once its on the table, unscrew to get old one off, put new one in place and re screw. (there are many screws) Then bulky door needs to be placed back onto the refrigerator. Again difficult positioning, weight, bulky. The door comes off and goes on very easily (2 mins to get off, 10 to put back on). Just 3 lower screws. This job could have taken less than an hour if I had started with a removed door.

Broken left side slide rail for the meat/cheese bin

  • Customer: Jeffrey from Tiverton, RI
  • Difficulty: Very Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
Removing the broken rail was very difficult. There is a small notch that actually holds it in place. To remove the old rail, there was a hole in the metal bracket next to where the notch was. You had to apply pressure through the hole to the rail to slightly bend it to get it to release the notch to slide the old rail out. After the old rail was removed, the new rail with rack wheel installed, slid in and snapped into place very easily.

Replace Torn Door Gasket.

  • Customer: Alan from Houston, TX
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
The first order of business was to find a supplier for the gasket and to make sure that the right one was ordered. This was done with out a hitch @ Part Select and at a cost less than the retail stores. The right Gasket was ordered thru Parts Select

Only difficulty was to start the install of the replacment .
Need to start at the hinged corner of the door Top & Bottom for a good fit and less hassel.

Thank you Part Select for the service.

Alan E. Bischof
Houston Texas

One pair of freezer door stop basket brackets broken

  • Customer: Bradley from Katy, TX
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers
  • 7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
First I used needle-nose pliers to remove broken hooks from the door. (One of the broken hooks slipped down inside the door and could not be retrieved. It will not create a problem is you cannot remove broken hooks.) I examined the hooks against the bracket to check the hook orientation (up or down ... they faced down). Next I searched online for the parts and discovered my door decal model number needed one or more letters, and I could not find the serial number. I only knew it was a 10 year old Maytag model RSW2400E.

All online websites (no matter what model version I used) said the basket door stop brackets were obsolete and no longer available. I finally found Partselect.com and used their easy search system to find pictures and descriptions of the parts. But I could only find parts with upward facing hooks. I was concerned but decided to take a chance and ordered them because they looked like they might fit. I had nothing to lose since the original parts are no longer available. When the new parts arrived, they looked just like the broken ones except for the hook orientation, and the packaging listed them correctly as "STOP. BASKET (LT) part #61004465" and "STOP.BASKET (RT) part #61004466". I held them up to the door (while still in the packaging) and they looked good.

INSTALLATION:
First, I inserted the left-hand bracket hooks into the door panel holes (you can start with either the left or right side) and gave it a little push and it snapped into place. The hooks and the little stop node fit perfectly and flush. YES!

Second, I took the basket, and making sure it was facing the correct direction for tilting in and out, I inserted the basket pivot post into the pivot hole on the stop bracket (making sure that I had the basket frame to the inside of the stop so that the basket would catch and be stopped when tilted out).

Third, I got the right-hand bracket and inserted it onto the other basket pivot post BEFORE I installed the right-hand bracket into the door.

Lastly, while holding the basket and the bracket together, I inserted the bracket into the door and pushed it into place.

I checked the basket operation. It tilted perfectly. There were no clearence issues. WOOHOO! Job done in less than 5 minutes, THANK YOU PARTSELECT.COM

I would only ask Partselect to adjust the online description to "Door Basket Stop - Left Hand and Right Hand" (Door Shelf Retainer Bracket is not correct.)

lower left shelf support was broken

  • Customer: Michael from Torrance, CA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 14 of 29 people found this instruction helpful
I removed all contents from the lower shelf. I, then removed both of the pull out drawers. Secondly, I removed the lower glass shelf and the glass support tray. At this point all four plastic shelf supports were accessible. I removed the inner screw from all four supports and replaced with four new shelf supports. Then reassembled in reverse order. Very easy to do!

light inside fridge was flickering and clicking

  • Customer: bill from escondido, CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 8 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
tested bulb good ,replaced door switch first(least expensive)then ordered light socket and circuitboard.If clicking sound is heard replace circuitboard first to save on return shipping because the switch and socket where ok

Broken cup water fill on ice maker

  • Customer: Matthew from Aurora, CO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
I called the local Amana repair man, wanted $150 for a new ice maker because they could not get the part I needed. Found Partsselect.com and the part cost $17 with shipping. They saved me over $100. The repair was very easy too, just removed a couple of screws.

Thanks,
Matt

water leaked into refrigerator

  • Customer: khash from springfield, VA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Once I identified the problem, Partselect's web page made it easy to find a replacement part. The Housing Control unit was easy to remove as it had one screw in the middle, by the temprature control section, and two screws to either end. The center screw required a philips head, but the end once did not need to be removed. The unit could simply be slid out and the wiring is easy to disconnect. Then it was simply a process of inserting the components from the damaged Housing Control unit, to the new one. If you treat it like a "puzzle" you'll get the results you want with out the aggrevation that it could turn into.

No ice

  • Customer: Jon from Boise, ID
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 8 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
1 screw remove assembly. Unplug cable harness and remove old cover and wire arm. Replace cover and wire arm and attach wire harness on assembly end. Re attach using screw removed in first step. Plug in wire harness. Making ice within 30 minutes.

didn't eject icecubes

  • Customer: Ronald from Marion, IL
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
R & R Icemaker Assembly. Took out 3 screws and unpluged Icemaker & replaced with new part. very easy and the service from PartSelect was fantastic.
Very Satisfied,
Ron Martin

The ice maker stopped making ice.

  • Customer: Thomas from Cupertino, CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
I did a few tests with the old ice maker and determined that it was the ice maker itself that was faulty. The replacement part I ordered exceeded my expectations in the time it took to get the part. I reused the arm, wire harness and clamps from the old icemaker. Then it was a simple install into the bottom freezer compartment, turning on the water supply and bingo...lots of ice cubes.

refrigerator not cooling properly

  • Customer: Ernie from Windsor, CA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required:
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Replaced refrigerator cooling control. No luck. Replaced freezer cooling control. No luck. Coils were icing up. Unplugged frig and allowed coils to defrost. After more poking around, found that condenser fan was not spinning. Touch it and it'd start. That was definitely in need of replacement. Replacement was easy. Refrigerator is now running as it should.

replacing thermostat did not help

  • Customer: John from Rocky River, OH
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 6 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
Icecubes came out half-way, and refrooze. I figured out, that the melter does not work (HEATER in the icemaker) Voltage measured 105V no load. Studied the Internet, and folloved an advice: shorted the back wire and the blackwire with white stripes.these go to relay contacts. It seems, that the relay contacts are no good on Infrared receiver boaed. I turn off manually the icemaker, when needed
All Instructions for the MTB2156DEW
31-45 of 499