Models > MSD2756GEW > Instructions

MSD2756GEW Maytag Refrigerator - Instructions

All installation instructions for MSD2756GEW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the refrigerator repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the MSD2756GEW
76-90 of 806
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Ice maker not dispensing ice

  • Customer: Travis from Westchester CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
Removed about 6 screws. Replaced the solenoid and door kit. Replaced the screws. These parts were easy to replace. They were also super easy to identify and order from the site. I received them two days after I placed my order.
Thanks partselect.com!

Ice maker over flowing

  • Customer: ben from manhattan KS
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
My ice maker was overflowing and i realized that it was the water valve that needed replaced. unscrewed 1 nut, unhooked 3 water lines, unhooked electrical components and re-installed in reverse order. took about 10-15 mins.

replace water filter

  • Customer: Richard from Williamsburg VA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 7 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Unscrewed old filter and screwed in new filter.

Ice maker leaked water

  • Customer: Robert from Pennsylvania Furnace PA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 7 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Overall, replacing the ice maker wasn't too bad but it wasn't nearly as easy for me as it seems to have been for some. In my case, the fridge was an Amana and the ice maker was mounted in such a way that disconnecting the power connector was difficult. The ice maker had to be completely dismounted before any access to the power connector was even possible. The short power cables made it very difficult to get the ice maker into a position where I had a good view of the power connector enabling me to see how to release it. The only other challenge was the cup that the water line goes into. The replacement ice maker did not come with the right cup - the instructions said to replace the provided one with the old one. No instructions for this procedure were provided and it looked to me like it might involve significant disassembly, something I wanted to avoid for fear of breaking a plastic part on the new ice maker (something I had already done when disassembling the old ice maker). So instead of replacing the cup, I modified the new one to match the old one. This involved removing a cutout on one side and covering a hole on the other. Installation of the new ice maker went fine and the water leak problem was fixed.

The Shaft of the Auger Drive Motor Became Stripped

  • Customer: Anthony from Amenia ND
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 7 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the one nut screw holding the Ice bucket shelf then removed the Ice Auger Container. Then I lifed the Part containing the Drive Motor. I removed the electrical connection which just plugs into the fridge. Once the Drive motor and container was out of the fridge I removed 4 screws and the Drive motor was out. I disconnected 3 electrical connectors and connected them to the new drive motor. Then replaced the motor and connected the 4 screws. I then installed the yolk on the drive shaft and then put the drive motor container back in the fridge and reconnected the electrical. Installed the nut screw and I was done.

not cold enough refrig. side

  • Customer: Ross from River Grove IL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
These so called factory trained techs, at least the ones that looked at my fridge don't know jack. I explained my problem, they replaced T-Stat refridge side, onother time they replaced door gasket, still not cold enough, found your website,
got all the answers. Ordered and installed,defrost
heater and T stat assy and adaptive defrost control. Remove shelves freezer side, remove evaporator cover 1/4" nutdriver ,defrost with hair
drier, unsnap elec. connector and relaced part.
The ADC, removed screws mounted on roofside
was able to lower plastic panel enough to unplug
the ADC, it just laid there, removed and replaced.
Don't know which part was bad, but I do know that
they are interconnected, at this point I din't care to defrost manually which I did for the last 7 months.
Thanks for your guidance. USMC Ross

Ice/water dispenser would not shut off.

  • Customer: Larry from Cypress TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
I removed 3 screws that held face panel in place and unplugged and removed face panel. I removed one screw holding limit switch in place, unplugged switch and removed actuator pad and switch. Installed new limit switch and actuator pad. Repaced front panel and dispensor - now works like a new one.

refrigerator and freezer not cold enough

  • Customer: Greg from Williamstown NJ
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
I don't know anything about repairing a refrigerator - I'm a computer tech. I noticed that the outside of the fridge was warm to the touch and the inside was not getting as cold as it should. I took the lower back panel behind the fridge off and noticed that the fan was not spinning. The local parts dealers did not have the condenser fan motor that was needed but they did say that they do go bad. I decided to order one from PartSelect.com and do it myself. Using a 1/4 inch nut driver and a flat head screw driver to pry the old motor out of the casing, I got the job done in about an hour or so. It's a relativly easy job. Besides the ouside panel screws, there's 3 screws on the inside near the fan blades you have to reach in to get. Pop out the whole assembly, unscrew the nut that holds the blades on and pry out the old motor and replace.. Try it yourself and save a couple hundred bucks!

Hollow Ice Cubes, Stuck Icemaker & no more cubes

  • Customer: Jonathan from Scottsdale AZ
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 7 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
We have a Reverse Osmosis water filter supplying the fridge, so the internal water filter only served to reduce the water pressure inside the unit. I installed the bypass plug by simply twisting and removing the internal water filter and then twisting the plug up into the same hole. Done in 5 min.
Longest part of this was clearing the top shelf to reach back there... Oh, and figuring out that this part exists and that it could help with the problems we were having with the unit. The water filter is relatively new, less than six months, but it still contributed to the problem enough to cause the failure.
[Thank you Partselect.com for having this web database set up that gets EXACTLY the right part!].

Now about the hollow cubes: Do a web search and you'll find a lot of discussion about it. This is specific to the Whirlpool (Maytag, and others) newer style front to back icemakers that create "half moon" shaped icecubes. For a Shop Manual to a web search for 4316835.pdf for this series.
No doubt my old unit's icemaker solenoid valve on the back isn't passing as much pressure as it did new, but by itself it isn't fatal just yet. You can tell if you are vulnerable to this if the water spigot on the front only delivers a very slow trickle of water; if it takes a l o n g t i m e to fill a glass.

But here is the rest of the story: There is a fundamental design flaw in the way the icemaker unit was created that makes it malfuntion if the water pressure is too low - they chose to put the thermocouple (TC) that senses the temperature of the freezing cube on the opposite end (front) of the water tray from the water fill tube which fills from the rear. This was probably a manufacturing trade off for simplicity of assembly and it saved them half a cent's worth of copper wiring and a couple of screws. And maybe a safty concern about wiring under an open water channel, but that is a lousy excuse; there are other solutions, and the power "harness" goes right by there within a couple of inches anyway...

There are a number of reasons for low pressure:
- Bad supply inlet valve, or not open all the way, crimped tubing
- Bad Frige icemaker solenoid valve
- Clogged internal water filter (even just a little)
- Frozen ice plug in the fill tube, in the very back top of the unit against the back (use a hair dryer to defrost)
- Etc. Do some more web research for more details.
Of course the icemaker timers do fail as well, so this discussion assumes the icemaker is still functioning as "normally" as it can, given its design limitations.

The interaction with water pressure (design flaw!) is this: if the unit doesn't get enough water due to low pressure, then the final cube position to fill doesn't get any water in it (the front one by the motor). This is the one that the TC is next to as well, so it cools of really quickly and the TC thinks the tray is completely frozen, when in fact it isn't. The TC fires the cycling motor which turns on the heater and then spins the ejector shaft which has tabs that push the half moon shaped cubes around and out. However, since the cubes weren't fully frozen, only their outer shell gets pushed out - the water in the middle drains out leaving a hollow cube set. That liquid water hits the cold ejector bars and some of it immediately freezes, making little stalactite fingers that catch on the tabs and side of the tray, thus jamming the ejector shaft and pausing the cycle in place indefinitely.
The net is that you get a few hollow cubes and then no more ice until you reach in and crack off the ice fingers so shaft tabs can pass and the motor can finsh the cycle and properly stop in its home position. You can also tell by checking whether the front cube location has water in it just after it fills by reaching around and dipping your finger in it. If it comes up dry, then you have this problem.
So, in my case, putting the bypass plug in increased my flow t

water leak

  • Customer: Michael from Staten Island NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 7 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
unplug refridgertor shut water off. took off water line at valve un plug wires unsrew mounting valve. srew water line back plug wires back and mount vavle. turn on water. plug refridgertor in

Fridge stopped cooling, freezer still cold... Saved $250+

  • Customer: Cory from Birnamwood WI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
First I hired a repairman to fix it who charged $125 to defrost the cooling coils then said the defrost heater would need to be replaced for $125+labor. He had the wrong part and was going to charge me >3x the price it would have been from Partselect.com too. I figure I saved a minimum of $250 vs having him do the work then charge me yet again for the right part.

Should have just done this myself from the start and saved another $125. Information about the cause, how to test and what parts would be needed were all easy to find online once I actually searched.

Unplugged fridge.

Using diagrams from PartSelect.com and other information online anb defrosted coils with hair-dryer. (This requires removing two screws in back of freezer compartment using nut-driver to remove the panels covering coils... literally a two minute job to expose coils!)

Then found and tested defrost heater.
Defrost heater was fine. Per information online problem then had to be Adaptive Frost Control (ADA) circuit board.

In refrigerator compartment:
1) Removed top housing cover (covers lights, temp controls, etc.) This required removing a single screw (with nut-driver) attaching it to back and depressing two locking tabs near the back on either side. Slide it forward and down. The only tricky part of this repair is getting the locking tabs positioned correctly to get the plastic cover off. I did break the left one although it cover is still firmly in place in this case.)

2) Removed entire assembly from roof of fridge. involves loosening two large headed screws above lights and removing two hex-head screws with nut-driver above either side of temp controls. Next slide slightly to the right to disengage the two large-headed screws (or remove them completely... it seemed easier to just leave them in place.) Dropped front end of control assembly down.

3) Opened plastic box surrounding ADA and pried open locking tab holding it to wiring. Connected new board and set ADA assembly back in place.

4) Put everything back together.

Plugged fridge in and all was well. Exposed the coils again a few days later and they were not frosted up at all.

Total time to replace the ADA was about 20 minutes. Total time for everything including defrosting coils, testing, replacing parts, etc. was an hour max.

Sides and door frames of the refrigerator warm to the touch.

  • Customer: Dave from Bedford IN
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Confirmed the condenser fan was the problem when I noted it was not running when the compressor was on. Removed 3 mounting screws, unpluggede the fan. Removed and replaced the mounted flange(3 screws) and remounted. Plugged in fan and it started running.

Thanks for the diagrams and quick delivery. This is the second repair on appliances I have made with your parts and probably saved $300-400 in service calls.

Auger drive motor pulled away from enclosure and water was leaking into the ice bucket

  • Customer: Charles from Helendale CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 7 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the screws holding the housing inplace pulled and threw away than went to install the new drive motor but the screws were of a different thread so reinstalled the old motor and put the housing and bucket back together. after thawing out the water fill tube put it back into the cup-water fill and put clamp back in place. system is performing like brand new.

ice maker chute door not working

  • Customer: DOUGLAS from MILFORD PA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
removed outside water spill tray and removed exterior cover & interior cover exposing the door arm and solenoid. replaced with new parts including spring. Elontronics have a plug which is easy to disconnecct. & reconnect
old solenoid head would not have fit new door arm
and vice versa.
I strongly suggest using the kit.
A Torx type screw driver is required for all screws
on the Jenn-Air

Door closer on refrigerator side was worn out

  • Customer: Robert from Londonderry NH
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
This was a very simpler repair to an annoying problem. First I removed the decorative cover on the top hinge pin of the door which was held on with one screw. I then removed the 3 screws of the top hinge pin with a socket, held the door in place with my hand and took off the top pin. Next, I simply lifted the refrigerator door off the bottom worn out hinge.
removed the old door hinge bracket and bottom lower hinge pin that had worn, placed the new bottom hinge pin in the bracket. Finally, on the bottom of the refrigerator I replaced the natural door closer held on by one screw. Lifted the door back onto the new bottom hinge pin, held the door in place and installed the top hinge pin, put the cover back on and the refrigerator is closing like it was new again.
All Instructions for the MSD2756GEW
76-90 of 806