Models > MSD2756GEW > Instructions

MSD2756GEW Maytag Refrigerator - Instructions

All installation instructions for MSD2756GEW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the refrigerator repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the MSD2756GEW
46-60 of 806
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Ice Maker selnoid malfunctioned.

  • Customer: Robert from Kokomo IN
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 11 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
I called PartSelect and was greeted by a real live person instead of a recording. The lady was very helpful and kind. We decided on the part that I needed, and it arrived to my home in less time than she said it should. I completed the repair with the instructions provided in just a short time. My experience with PartSelect was positive, and it reminded me of the way businesses used to be. I highly recommend them.

Ice dispenser acting irradically

  • Customer: Greg from Highland Village TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 12 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
Simple to fix. Watched the video and noted what to do.
Replaced the control board, solenoid, and limit switch. Woks like new!

ice dispencer would not stop dispencing

  • Customer: james from emmitsburg MD
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 9 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
first i remove the two screws like the guy said on your web site. then i pulled the cover off with a upward motion revealing three more screws witch i removed. I then removed the dispencer. unpluged the wires and removed the switch and pad and replaced with new parts.I reinstalled the wires then the unit, installed the screws and cover.Checked for proper operation.Then enjoyed that cold beer! Thanks to your wed site and repair info. I saved at least 100 buck to the repair man. Thanks Partselect.com

Constant running, ice build-up in evaporator, fridge side warm

  • Customer: James from Scotts Valley CA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 12 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
Simple parts replacement. The temp control was a bit tricky as it involved replicating the bends of the tiny tubing for the sensor coil, but everything is so modular that it was not that difficult.

Freezer defrosted while doing the control repairs, it had a lot of ice stuck in the evaporator because the defrost function was not working.

The worst part of all this was moving the food and making sure it did not spoil.

Lower hinge (door closer) was worn out, so door wouldn't close on its own.

  • Customer: Matt from Green Bay WI
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 10 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
Simple. Removed all food and shelves from the door. Removed the top hinge, which allowed me to lift the door off the door closer. I layed it on the kitchen table on its front with the handle over the edge so it wouldn't cause a problem. Since I had it all apart I replaced both the top and bottom pieces of the door closer, and put a touch of grease on it. I then reassembled it in the reverse order. - The fountain spring and actuator pad were for a different problem with the fountain. It wouldn't shut off all the time because the actuator pad was getting stiff from time and use. I removed A/C power and turned off the water, then removed the front screws from the fountain cover. I then had easy access to the actuator pad, which only took a few minutes to replace. Careful when you pull the cover off, there are wires connected to it. Just don't forget to pull the plug out off the wall so you don't get killed!

Bottom of freezer compartment was icing up/freezer was leaking water

  • Customer: Jason from Clarkston MI
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 8 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
UNPLUG YOUR FRIDGE BEFORE YOU START> First I removed the shroud covering the lights and controls in the top of the refrigerator side. This was the hardest part, actually. Their are two indentations on the back of the cover and it is really hard to pull that cover off. Anyhow, once you do that, their are two screws, one by each light bulb in the top of the fridge that need to be removed. Their are also three hex head screws that need to be removed, two in the front corners of the assembly, one in the center, back of the fridge. Take those out and the whole assembly drops down. In the back right had corner of the assembly is the adaptive defrost control. Unplug it and set it aside. Plug the new one in. Put everything back together and you are back in business.

No water in door or icemaker

  • Customer: Eric from Menan ID
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 11 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
From the beginning I have never had good water flow in the door and ice cubes turned out funky. I tried replacing the filter once with hardly noticeable change. The change I did see was $35 less in my pocket. So I bought a filter bypass plug and it now works like a champ. I have well water so I trust its quality and I am very satisfied. I would describe how I did the repair but if you don't no how to change out the filter you probably shouldn't be trying it.

Ice machine motor broke from housing & fridge door lower hinge worn, so door is staying closed

  • Customer: David from Spring Hill FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 8 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
Just pulled out ice bucket put to the side and then pulled out framed housing that surrounds the ice bucket tray and put on table
went in the rear where the turn motor is and disconnected the wires from the housing next to it and disconnected the motor which had cracked the wal it was mounted to and broke and fell which left a huge hole and the , took the 4 screws out and remounted it onto the new housing rear wall, note that to get the twist key lever that unscrews clock wise you may have to hit wit a hammer bluntly to brak it lose first then it unscrews easy, but this has to be done first before re assembly of the motor as it goes through the new housing wall , once this is donr then put your screw end through the hole and re assemble the wing devise back onto the moter screw drive which it will screw on counter clockwise and tap a few quick times to snug with a ball hamer or a small hammer, T
The hinge door pin is real easy, just unscrew the top of door 3 screwa and lift off the door set aside put new door pin hinge on then set the door back onto the pin hole align up and set it back down in the hinge hole and replace screws on the upper door hinge on top of fridge. all this took about 5 minutes tops, it took me more time to take all the items out of the doorway of my fridge that it did to do the task itself. Hope this could help.

Worn out actuator pad on the water/ice dispenser

  • Customer: JEFF from TALLAHASSEE FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 8 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the spill tray, and removed the two screws on the bottom of the dispenser. I was then able to remove the front of the dispenser, which revealed 3 more screws. After removing those screws, the entire assembly lifts out. I removed the old pad, put the replacement pad on, replaced all the screws and the tray, and was done! It took about 10 minutes, start to finish. I saved at least $75 on the repair by doing it myself, and the part only took 3 days to arrive. Best of all, the water and ice dispenser works like new! Thanks, PartSelect!

Freezer and fresh food sections too warm, with control settings at coolest.

  • Customer: DAVID from PEABODY MA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 10 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
Thanks to previously posted PartSelect stories, I had a good idea on how to proceed. This component, as others have suggested, is clearly a piece of junk. This is the third time it has been replaced, once under warranty, again in a service call for $160 and now by me, with a PartSelect unit for $52.
The circuit board, with integral relay, resides in the extreme upper right hand corner of the fresh food compartment.
Remove upper shelf.
Remove white plastic control cover through which the lights illuminate the compartment. Finger grips at both sides at rear. Slide forward about an inch to clear the tabs visible at the rear, then tilt down and off. The owners' manual describes this at "Changing the Light Bulbs". It also gets the lightbulb description wrong, but ..........
Now remove the hex head screw facing you at the rear center. Then get its two cousins which are vertically positioned to hold the front of this housing up into the roof. They're left and right, just rearwards of the ends of the control setting dial.
These three tapping screws which you now have in hand are about 1 1/4" long.
Next, there are two Phillips head screws, also into the roof, whice are just to the rear of the two light sockets. Removing these, and the left one is awkward, frees up the control totally except for the wiring harness, which restrains it at the rear.
No matter, just tilt the unit down so that the front lip is pointed down towards you.
The piece-o-crap board is at the right rear.
Pop off the connector, takes some force, and put in your new module.
Order another one now, you will need it.
The service tech who changed out my next-to-last one left a circuit diagram back there with the new control, like saying "I'll be back."

We had two different colored handles on our side by side refrigerator

  • Customer: George from Lockport IL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 9 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Popped the top cover of the handle to expose two screws at the top of the replacement handle. Removed those two screws to loosen the handle and expose the third screw at the bottom of the handle. Replaced the handle with the same 3 screws. Total time 10 minuets

Ice stripper broken on ice maker

  • Customer: Kenneth from New Braunfels TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 10 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
I unplugged the fridge. Loosened the 2 top screws on the ice maker and removed the lower screw. I disconnected the wiring harness and removed the Ice maker. I removed the plastic timer cover in front. I then loosened the screws on the face of the ice maker and removed the broken ice stripper and replaced it with a new one. Re-tightened the screws on the face, installed the timer cover, plugged in the wiring harness, re-attached the ice maker. Plugged the fridge back in and walla, it was making ice in 30 minutes!

Hollow Ice Cubes, Stuck Icemaker & no more cubes

  • Customer: Jonathan from Scottsdale AZ
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 10 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
We have a Reverse Osmosis water filter supplying the fridge, so the internal water filter only served to reduce the water pressure inside the unit. I installed the bypass plug by simply twisting and removing the internal water filter and then twisting the plug up into the same hole. Done in 5 min.
Longest part of this was clearing the top shelf to reach back there... Oh, and figuring out that this part exists and that it could help with the problems we were having with the unit. The water filter is relatively new, less than six months, but it still contributed to the problem enough to cause the failure.
[Thank you Partselect.com for having this web database set up that gets EXACTLY the right part!].

Now about the hollow cubes: Do a web search and you'll find a lot of discussion about it. This is specific to the Whirlpool (Maytag, and others) newer style front to back icemakers that create "half moon" shaped icecubes. For a Shop Manual to a web search for 4316835.pdf for this series.
No doubt my old unit's icemaker solenoid valve on the back isn't passing as much pressure as it did new, but by itself it isn't fatal just yet. You can tell if you are vulnerable to this if the water spigot on the front only delivers a very slow trickle of water; if it takes a l o n g t i m e to fill a glass.

But here is the rest of the story: There is a fundamental design flaw in the way the icemaker unit was created that makes it malfuntion if the water pressure is too low - they chose to put the thermocouple (TC) that senses the temperature of the freezing cube on the opposite end (front) of the water tray from the water fill tube which fills from the rear. This was probably a manufacturing trade off for simplicity of assembly and it saved them half a cent's worth of copper wiring and a couple of screws. And maybe a safty concern about wiring under an open water channel, but that is a lousy excuse; there are other solutions, and the power "harness" goes right by there within a couple of inches anyway...

There are a number of reasons for low pressure:
- Bad supply inlet valve, or not open all the way, crimped tubing
- Bad Frige icemaker solenoid valve
- Clogged internal water filter (even just a little)
- Frozen ice plug in the fill tube, in the very back top of the unit against the back (use a hair dryer to defrost)
- Etc. Do some more web research for more details.
Of course the icemaker timers do fail as well, so this discussion assumes the icemaker is still functioning as "normally" as it can, given its design limitations.

The interaction with water pressure (design flaw!) is this: if the unit doesn't get enough water due to low pressure, then the final cube position to fill doesn't get any water in it (the front one by the motor). This is the one that the TC is next to as well, so it cools of really quickly and the TC thinks the tray is completely frozen, when in fact it isn't. The TC fires the cycling motor which turns on the heater and then spins the ejector shaft which has tabs that push the half moon shaped cubes around and out. However, since the cubes weren't fully frozen, only their outer shell gets pushed out - the water in the middle drains out leaving a hollow cube set. That liquid water hits the cold ejector bars and some of it immediately freezes, making little stalactite fingers that catch on the tabs and side of the tray, thus jamming the ejector shaft and pausing the cycle in place indefinitely.
The net is that you get a few hollow cubes and then no more ice until you reach in and crack off the ice fingers so shaft tabs can pass and the motor can finsh the cycle and properly stop in its home position. You can also tell by checking whether the front cube location has water in it just after it fills by reaching around and dipping your finger in it. If it comes up dry, then you have this problem.
So, in my case, putting the bypass plug in increased my flow t

Fridge stopped working

  • Customer: Dan from Sumner WA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
I called a repair man from a pretty large name to come out and take a look. He found out in about 10 minutes that it was a bad capacitor. The quote he gave me was $75 for the part and $175 labor. I tried my best not to laugh and tell him no thank you. He did have to charge me for him to show up, which was only $98.
So I used what he told(minus the "scrap it") and opened it back up. Although he had left wires everywhere and the broken pieces laying inside, I thought it was enough for me to order the part. PartSelect was very easy to navigate and ordering was a breeze. Took about 4 days to get the part and I ordered in the X-mas craze. Fixed it in about 15 minutes.

Door flap not opening correctly and noise when pushing button for water

  • Customer: Charles from Allen TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
This repair was relatively easy due to the instructions provided and took about 15 minutes. Originally, I had bought a door flap thinking that was the problem (a small plastic piece on the flap had broken off) but after replacing that the assembly still would not allow ice flow. I then purchased the kit including solenoid and the repair worked. I had a bad solenoid all along. My suggestion is to replace the entire kit rather than one part as it is likely all parts need replacement.
All Instructions for the MSD2756GEW
46-60 of 806