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MSD2454GRW Maytag Refrigerator - Instructions

All installation instructions for MSD2454GRW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the refrigerator repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the MSD2454GRW
46-60 of 716
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Hollow Ice Cubes, Stuck Icemaker & no more cubes

  • Customer: Jonathan from Scottsdale AZ
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 11 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
We have a Reverse Osmosis water filter supplying the fridge, so the internal water filter only served to reduce the water pressure inside the unit. I installed the bypass plug by simply twisting and removing the internal water filter and then twisting the plug up into the same hole. Done in 5 min.
Longest part of this was clearing the top shelf to reach back there... Oh, and figuring out that this part exists and that it could help with the problems we were having with the unit. The water filter is relatively new, less than six months, but it still contributed to the problem enough to cause the failure.
[Thank you Partselect.com for having this web database set up that gets EXACTLY the right part!].

Now about the hollow cubes: Do a web search and you'll find a lot of discussion about it. This is specific to the Whirlpool (Maytag, and others) newer style front to back icemakers that create "half moon" shaped icecubes. For a Shop Manual to a web search for 4316835.pdf for this series.
No doubt my old unit's icemaker solenoid valve on the back isn't passing as much pressure as it did new, but by itself it isn't fatal just yet. You can tell if you are vulnerable to this if the water spigot on the front only delivers a very slow trickle of water; if it takes a l o n g t i m e to fill a glass.

But here is the rest of the story: There is a fundamental design flaw in the way the icemaker unit was created that makes it malfuntion if the water pressure is too low - they chose to put the thermocouple (TC) that senses the temperature of the freezing cube on the opposite end (front) of the water tray from the water fill tube which fills from the rear. This was probably a manufacturing trade off for simplicity of assembly and it saved them half a cent's worth of copper wiring and a couple of screws. And maybe a safty concern about wiring under an open water channel, but that is a lousy excuse; there are other solutions, and the power "harness" goes right by there within a couple of inches anyway...

There are a number of reasons for low pressure:
- Bad supply inlet valve, or not open all the way, crimped tubing
- Bad Frige icemaker solenoid valve
- Clogged internal water filter (even just a little)
- Frozen ice plug in the fill tube, in the very back top of the unit against the back (use a hair dryer to defrost)
- Etc. Do some more web research for more details.
Of course the icemaker timers do fail as well, so this discussion assumes the icemaker is still functioning as "normally" as it can, given its design limitations.

The interaction with water pressure (design flaw!) is this: if the unit doesn't get enough water due to low pressure, then the final cube position to fill doesn't get any water in it (the front one by the motor). This is the one that the TC is next to as well, so it cools of really quickly and the TC thinks the tray is completely frozen, when in fact it isn't. The TC fires the cycling motor which turns on the heater and then spins the ejector shaft which has tabs that push the half moon shaped cubes around and out. However, since the cubes weren't fully frozen, only their outer shell gets pushed out - the water in the middle drains out leaving a hollow cube set. That liquid water hits the cold ejector bars and some of it immediately freezes, making little stalactite fingers that catch on the tabs and side of the tray, thus jamming the ejector shaft and pausing the cycle in place indefinitely.
The net is that you get a few hollow cubes and then no more ice until you reach in and crack off the ice fingers so shaft tabs can pass and the motor can finsh the cycle and properly stop in its home position. You can also tell by checking whether the front cube location has water in it just after it fills by reaching around and dipping your finger in it. If it comes up dry, then you have this problem.
So, in my case, putting the bypass plug in increased my flow t

Fridge stopped working

  • Customer: Dan from Sumner WA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 9 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
I called a repair man from a pretty large name to come out and take a look. He found out in about 10 minutes that it was a bad capacitor. The quote he gave me was $75 for the part and $175 labor. I tried my best not to laugh and tell him no thank you. He did have to charge me for him to show up, which was only $98.
So I used what he told(minus the "scrap it") and opened it back up. Although he had left wires everywhere and the broken pieces laying inside, I thought it was enough for me to order the part. PartSelect was very easy to navigate and ordering was a breeze. Took about 4 days to get the part and I ordered in the X-mas craze. Fixed it in about 15 minutes.

The Ice and Water Dispenser Would Run on After the Glass Was Removed

  • Customer: Doug from Berkeley Springs WV
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 9 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
I am going to be completely honest here. This problem had persisted for months. I finally decided that I would buy all the associated parts and repair the unit hoping to cover the problem. Much to my surprise, after carrying out the repair, using the instructions provided by PartSelect, I still had the problem. I decided to remove and LUBRICATE the button which depresses the Limit Switch when you push a glass against the rubber membrane. Low and behold the problem was solved. The frig is nine years old, so I feel I may have prevented other problems in the future by replacing the three parts. It was a follow the directions sort of repair. I was very pleased with PartSelect response to my order (received it next day) with standard shipping.

We had two different colored handles on our side by side refrigerator

  • Customer: George from Lockport IL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 9 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Popped the top cover of the handle to expose two screws at the top of the replacement handle. Removed those two screws to loosen the handle and expose the third screw at the bottom of the handle. Replaced the handle with the same 3 screws. Total time 10 minuets

Water valve had cracked in a move and was leaking badly

  • Customer: Kelly from Rifle CO
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 9 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Replaced the water valve with the new part by removing 2 screws to allow folding back of the cover, removing 1 screw and pulling valve assembly out. 1 more screw took the two valves apart, unscrewed the water lines, replaced them on new valve (with newer push-in connections it was even easier), reassembled unit, turned the water on, checked for leaks, none found. Works great, was very easy.

No water in door or icemaker

  • Customer: Eric from Menan ID
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 11 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
From the beginning I have never had good water flow in the door and ice cubes turned out funky. I tried replacing the filter once with hardly noticeable change. The change I did see was $35 less in my pocket. So I bought a filter bypass plug and it now works like a champ. I have well water so I trust its quality and I am very satisfied. I would describe how I did the repair but if you don't no how to change out the filter you probably shouldn't be trying it.

Fan Motor making screaming noise

  • Customer: Daniel from Auburn CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 10 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
First I unplugged the refrigerator, then next I removed the (4) screws holding in the inside back panel section of the freezer covering the cooling coils, the fan motor is attached to the removable panel.
I then unplugged the wiring harness to the fan motor which allows you to completely remove the freezer inside panel in order to replace the fan motor on a counter top or benchtop.
I removed the (3) spade terminal wiring from the fan motor and the nuts holding the motor on the frame. I then replaced the fan motor and blade the same way I had removed the old one, and then reattached the wiring terminals on the same terminals as the existing motor, making sure that black, red, and green do not get mixed up. I placed the rear panel back inside freezer and plugged in the wiring harness, fit panel back to original position and reinstalled the (4) panel screws. I once again plugged in the refrigerator and restored power. Everything is working fine.

broken ice door chute

  • Customer: Alexander from Raleigh NC
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 9 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
first unplug the refrigerator (power) remove the dispenser platform (removable) remove two torx screws, slide the cover up unplug the wire from the cover by sliding the ribbon tape up from the circuit board, remove the three torx screws slide the plastic from the hose (water dispenser hose) unplug the electrical (2) remove the two torx screw from the magnetic relay reassemble the door about 15 minute if you know what you are doing

No water to icemaker

  • Customer: Philip from Mission Viejo CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
Easy to diagnose problem because there was water to the water dispenser but none to the newly installed icemaker. Originally did attempt to clean the solenoid but found the plunger assembly damaged.

New part arrived sooner than I thought it would. Takes about as much time to remove the lower vent cover as to replace the valve. Remove the electrical plug from the wall, valve off the main water supply, remove lower vent cover, disconnect the supply hose from refrigerator valve assembly, remove one hex head mounting screw and you have both water valves in your hands. Identify the valve the supplies water to the filter and the one that supplies water to the icemaker/water dispenser. Then confirm which plastic water supply line goes to the water dispenser and which goes to the icemaker. Hose diameters are different but it is good to know. Disconnect the plastic water supply lines from both the ice dispenser and the icemaker portions of the valve. Replacement solenoid valve does not have thread on type compression fittings. Snip about an inch off of each hose and then press into the appropriate valve orifice.

Making sure the plastic supply lines do not get crimped, remount the valve assembly, reattach the supply hose, valve on the water and check for leaks. No leaks, reinstall dust cover and plug the refrigerator back in.

Move the unit back in place and then take a long deserved beer out and have a celebratory toast for a job well done.

The relay had burnt up.

  • Customer: Jacob from Glennville GA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
I Removed the two wires from the old relay. I Then pulled the old relay off the compressor. Next, I had to get the overload seperated from the old burnt relay, which took some care not to break. The old relay and overload is in a plastic compartment. Then I followed the directions that came with the new relay. The only confusion came with getting the two wires back onto the terminals of the new relay, mainly because the old relay was burnt so badly I didn't have any idea how it was originally wired. I crossed the two wires on the terminals of the relay. The compressor would click off and on, but would not start blowing cold air. I swapped the wires on the terminals and it started working immediately.

Door flap not opening correctly and noise when pushing button for water

  • Customer: Charles from Allen TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
This repair was relatively easy due to the instructions provided and took about 15 minutes. Originally, I had bought a door flap thinking that was the problem (a small plastic piece on the flap had broken off) but after replacing that the assembly still would not allow ice flow. I then purchased the kit including solenoid and the repair worked. I had a bad solenoid all along. My suggestion is to replace the entire kit rather than one part as it is likely all parts need replacement.

Ice bucket auger yoke was stripped out and turned freely

  • Customer: James from Pineville LA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the ice bucket from the freezer. Removed the single screw on the left side with a nut driver, then lift and pull the tray toward you...there is a wiring harness in back of the tray that I had to unplug...easy, pinch the sides of the plastic connector and it disconnects..and the tray came out of the refrigerator...and the cussing started. Since the threaded yoke was stripped it could not be unscrewed from the motor shaft...I took my trusty Dremel Tool and cut the shaft off so the yoke could be separated from the motor shaft and the motor could be removed from the plastic housing. From here on it was a piece of cake...install the new motor and screw the new yoke onto the motor shaft... I think it has a left handed thread, like the old propane bottles used to have..slide the tray back in, reconnect the wiring harness (it only plugs in one way), make sure the tray is sitting on the 4 side supports, put the single screw on the left side and you are done....put the ice bucket back in and flip the bail down and you should be back on business....!!

Ice maker over flowing

  • Customer: ben from manhattan KS
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
My ice maker was overflowing and i realized that it was the water valve that needed replaced. unscrewed 1 nut, unhooked 3 water lines, unhooked electrical components and re-installed in reverse order. took about 10-15 mins.

Water dispenser and ice maker wouldn't work (bought the fridge u$ed)

  • Customer: Ronald from Gainesville VA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
I bought the following parts:

PS109042 Double Outlet Water Valve
PS46363 Dual Outlet Water Valve Kit

When I bought the fridge, the part that PS109042 replaces was cracked and leaking water badly. When I ordered the replacement part, I got confused and ordered PS46363 by mistake. The original parts look similar even when side by side, but the replacement parts are revised drastically.

PS46363 is for the line that is between the water source and the water filter. The original lines from the filter are split (the original part has two inlets) and pipe to one inlet. You'll have to cut your hose right before it forks. The directions that come with the part are very straight-forward.

PS109042 actually distributes the filtered water to the water dispenser and icemaker. The old part had plastic fittings that held the water hosing to the part. The new part has no plastic fittings, yet holds the hosing to the part tightly. The directions that come with the part are very short and concise.

I also replaced the factory water filter with a Brita replacement (they are cheaper and I've used Brita filters before...they are solid).

All in all, I spent less than $100 on fixing a $500 used fridge that works as good as new. My wife was initially doubtful but fairly satisfied with the cost of the parts and the simplicity of installing them.

Fridge thawed - Compressor cycled on briefly then cut off

  • Customer: Scott from Flowery Branch GA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 11 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
I rolled the fridge forward and removed the cardboard backer plate. Listening to the the compressor click in failed attempts to start, I was hoping it was just a failed relay.

I unplugged the fridge,took a photo of the wiring and removed each wire from the relay. Removing the relay from the compressor took some effort. (Pull hard or pry loose with a screw driver as it is a snug fit.) Shaking the failed part gave the sounds of a baby's rattle so ordered the replacement kit.

The parts received were quite different that the original. Rather than a modular plug, the kit consists of the two components a wire jumper and a large plastic housing. Perhaps there will be less heat build up and this will last longer.

The directions were straight forward, but the black & white photos had little contrast and some details were hard to make out. The wiring color scheme in the instructions did not match my unit. Checking the on-line wiring plans confirmed that it had also been missing a ground wire to the compressor all these years -- yikes! After plugging in the two components to the compressor and connecting the wires and adding a ground, I aligned the plastic housing over the connections. The cover did not snap into place with any authority, but appears to be secure.
All Instructions for the MSD2454GRW
46-60 of 716