Models > MSD2454GRW > Instructions

MSD2454GRW Maytag Refrigerator - Instructions

All installation instructions for MSD2454GRW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the refrigerator repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the MSD2454GRW
31-45 of 710
Search Instructions
Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump". Need help?

Old Icemaker noisy and stopped making Ice

  • Customer: Daniel from Rhinelander WI
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 15 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
The old icemaker had a bad motor and would stall in the fill cycle causing my kitchen to flood on occasion.

The new one was so quiet, I thought it didn't work!

Anyway, one nutdriver and 5 minutes and I had the new one in there... It is so quiet, and I always have plenty of ice now!!!

Thanks!!!

Ice Maker broke at the begining of summer !!!!!!

  • Customer: Darrell from Pepperell MA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 14 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
The new Ice Maker Assembly arived in less than 24 hours. I was amazed that it came so fast.

I had already removed the old ice maker in order to get the modle number.

I just took two parts off of the old ice maker and quickly snapped them into place on the new ice maker. Then attached it to the refrigerator in less than 10 minutes. With in a few hours I had ice again !!!!!

I would definatly use partselect.com again.

Ice Maker Wouldn't Fill Consistently

  • Customer: Steven from Northridge CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 13 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
Replaced old dual outlet water valve with new design, which eliminates the (reportedly) troublesome "y" connector. A relatively simple matter of unplugging the refrig., turning off the water that feeds the ice maker and removing the cardboard/fabric service panel at the bottom rear of the refrig. Removed one screw with a nutdriver, disconnected the valve from both lines and out came the old valve with little fanfare. Next, as I replaced the valve with the new and improved version, cut out the "y" connector and used the supplied union and tubing to connect to the existing water line (just upstream from where the "y" connector was). Then, as my water/ice dispenser was sticking "on", I went ahead and replaced the rubber activator and internal switch. This just required moving a few hex screws on the front part of the dispenser to gain access to the parts. A relative snap and now all is working well.

Vegetables kept freezing regardless of temp setting.

  • Customer: John from Leominster MA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 15 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
I noticed that the thin plastic flap was missing. I squeezed the housing, unsnapped and pulled. INstalling the new part was just the reverse. No more frozen vegetables.

ice maker did not make ice

  • Customer: DAVID from TINLEY PARK IL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 17 of 27 people found this instruction helpful
The ice maker was not getting water. I hotwired the water valve by switching the connectors for the water dispenser and ice maker water valves and water flowed into the icemaker when the water dispenser lever was pushed. I wronly assumed the water valve was good. I removed the icemaker and determined that the gear motor was not getting power in the position the icemaker had stopped.In this position, the thermostat determines when the motor gets power so I replaced the thermostat. The icemaker still would not get water! As it turns out, the water solenoid was sticking due to a deteriorated rubber washer which let the solenoid plunger get too far out of the magnetic field. I replaced the water solenoid assy and all is well. Don't get fooled by hotwiring the valve. If it isn't getting water, the solenoid probably is the culprit.

Icemaker leaked water into ice bin causing a glob of ice

  • Customer: Kevin from Tyler TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 12 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
Philips head screwdriver and ten minutes was all it took! I removed the two screws that hold the icemaker assembly in place, then pulled it out a little and disconnected the electrical plug freeing the icemaker assembly. Then I snapped the external parts off my old icemaker assembly and snapped them on the new icemaker assembly. Installing the new icemaker assembly was just as fast and easy. I snapped the electrical plug into the new icemaker assembly, then screwed in the two screws. It was making ice shortly thereafter. Glob free ice! I'm glad I didn't call a repairman. I probably saved a hundred bucks. A ten year old could accomplish this simple and easy task. No wonder the Maytag repairman has time on his hands.

Not defrosting the coils warming up the compartments

  • Customer: Steve from Marion IN
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 12 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
Removed housing on the freezer side and removed the assembly by removing the two bottom clips and then unclipping the wire harness, two prong, and replaced as remvoved. Power was off of course. Watched for 24 hours and recovered housing and its been working great.

Ice dispenser acting irradically

  • Customer: Greg from Highland Village TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 12 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
Simple to fix. Watched the video and noted what to do.
Replaced the control board, solenoid, and limit switch. Woks like new!

Ice Maker selnoid malfunctioned.

  • Customer: Robert from Kokomo IN
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 11 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
I called PartSelect and was greeted by a real live person instead of a recording. The lady was very helpful and kind. We decided on the part that I needed, and it arrived to my home in less time than she said it should. I completed the repair with the instructions provided in just a short time. My experience with PartSelect was positive, and it reminded me of the way businesses used to be. I highly recommend them.

ice dispencer would not stop dispencing

  • Customer: james from emmitsburg MD
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 10 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
first i remove the two screws like the guy said on your web site. then i pulled the cover off with a upward motion revealing three more screws witch i removed. I then removed the dispencer. unpluged the wires and removed the switch and pad and replaced with new parts.I reinstalled the wires then the unit, installed the screws and cover.Checked for proper operation.Then enjoyed that cold beer! Thanks to your wed site and repair info. I saved at least 100 buck to the repair man. Thanks Partselect.com

Refrigerator Ice Maker stopped making ice.

  • Customer: Harold from Oakton VA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 12 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
(1) Removed the three screws which attached the ice maker to the freezing compartmnet wall in refrigerator; (2) Disconnected the power to the old ice maker; (3) Removed the old ice maker from the freezing compartment of the refrigerator; (4) Took the white front cover off of the old ice maker; (5) Disconnected the wiring harness from the old ice maker; (6) Removed the "ice making-stop arm" from the old ice maker; (7) Placed the items taken from old ice maker on to the new ice maker; (8) Reconnected the new ice maker to the power; (9) Placed the new ice maker in the proper position in freezing compartment of refrigerator and replaced the three screws. JOB DONE!

Worn out actuator pad on the water/ice dispenser

  • Customer: JEFF from TALLAHASSEE FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 9 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the spill tray, and removed the two screws on the bottom of the dispenser. I was then able to remove the front of the dispenser, which revealed 3 more screws. After removing those screws, the entire assembly lifts out. I removed the old pad, put the replacement pad on, replaced all the screws and the tray, and was done! It took about 10 minutes, start to finish. I saved at least $75 on the repair by doing it myself, and the part only took 3 days to arrive. Best of all, the water and ice dispenser works like new! Thanks, PartSelect!

Hollow Ice Cubes, Stuck Icemaker & no more cubes

  • Customer: Jonathan from Scottsdale AZ
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 11 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
We have a Reverse Osmosis water filter supplying the fridge, so the internal water filter only served to reduce the water pressure inside the unit. I installed the bypass plug by simply twisting and removing the internal water filter and then twisting the plug up into the same hole. Done in 5 min.
Longest part of this was clearing the top shelf to reach back there... Oh, and figuring out that this part exists and that it could help with the problems we were having with the unit. The water filter is relatively new, less than six months, but it still contributed to the problem enough to cause the failure.
[Thank you Partselect.com for having this web database set up that gets EXACTLY the right part!].

Now about the hollow cubes: Do a web search and you'll find a lot of discussion about it. This is specific to the Whirlpool (Maytag, and others) newer style front to back icemakers that create "half moon" shaped icecubes. For a Shop Manual to a web search for 4316835.pdf for this series.
No doubt my old unit's icemaker solenoid valve on the back isn't passing as much pressure as it did new, but by itself it isn't fatal just yet. You can tell if you are vulnerable to this if the water spigot on the front only delivers a very slow trickle of water; if it takes a l o n g t i m e to fill a glass.

But here is the rest of the story: There is a fundamental design flaw in the way the icemaker unit was created that makes it malfuntion if the water pressure is too low - they chose to put the thermocouple (TC) that senses the temperature of the freezing cube on the opposite end (front) of the water tray from the water fill tube which fills from the rear. This was probably a manufacturing trade off for simplicity of assembly and it saved them half a cent's worth of copper wiring and a couple of screws. And maybe a safty concern about wiring under an open water channel, but that is a lousy excuse; there are other solutions, and the power "harness" goes right by there within a couple of inches anyway...

There are a number of reasons for low pressure:
- Bad supply inlet valve, or not open all the way, crimped tubing
- Bad Frige icemaker solenoid valve
- Clogged internal water filter (even just a little)
- Frozen ice plug in the fill tube, in the very back top of the unit against the back (use a hair dryer to defrost)
- Etc. Do some more web research for more details.
Of course the icemaker timers do fail as well, so this discussion assumes the icemaker is still functioning as "normally" as it can, given its design limitations.

The interaction with water pressure (design flaw!) is this: if the unit doesn't get enough water due to low pressure, then the final cube position to fill doesn't get any water in it (the front one by the motor). This is the one that the TC is next to as well, so it cools of really quickly and the TC thinks the tray is completely frozen, when in fact it isn't. The TC fires the cycling motor which turns on the heater and then spins the ejector shaft which has tabs that push the half moon shaped cubes around and out. However, since the cubes weren't fully frozen, only their outer shell gets pushed out - the water in the middle drains out leaving a hollow cube set. That liquid water hits the cold ejector bars and some of it immediately freezes, making little stalactite fingers that catch on the tabs and side of the tray, thus jamming the ejector shaft and pausing the cycle in place indefinitely.
The net is that you get a few hollow cubes and then no more ice until you reach in and crack off the ice fingers so shaft tabs can pass and the motor can finsh the cycle and properly stop in its home position. You can also tell by checking whether the front cube location has water in it just after it fills by reaching around and dipping your finger in it. If it comes up dry, then you have this problem.
So, in my case, putting the bypass plug in increased my flow t

Lower hinge (door closer) was worn out, so door wouldn't close on its own.

  • Customer: Matt from Green Bay WI
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 10 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
Simple. Removed all food and shelves from the door. Removed the top hinge, which allowed me to lift the door off the door closer. I layed it on the kitchen table on its front with the handle over the edge so it wouldn't cause a problem. Since I had it all apart I replaced both the top and bottom pieces of the door closer, and put a touch of grease on it. I then reassembled it in the reverse order. - The fountain spring and actuator pad were for a different problem with the fountain. It wouldn't shut off all the time because the actuator pad was getting stiff from time and use. I removed A/C power and turned off the water, then removed the front screws from the fountain cover. I then had easy access to the actuator pad, which only took a few minutes to replace. Careful when you pull the cover off, there are wires connected to it. Just don't forget to pull the plug out off the wall so you don't get killed!

Fan Motor making screaming noise

  • Customer: Daniel from Auburn CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 10 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
First I unplugged the refrigerator, then next I removed the (4) screws holding in the inside back panel section of the freezer covering the cooling coils, the fan motor is attached to the removable panel.
I then unplugged the wiring harness to the fan motor which allows you to completely remove the freezer inside panel in order to replace the fan motor on a counter top or benchtop.
I removed the (3) spade terminal wiring from the fan motor and the nuts holding the motor on the frame. I then replaced the fan motor and blade the same way I had removed the old one, and then reattached the wiring terminals on the same terminals as the existing motor, making sure that black, red, and green do not get mixed up. I placed the rear panel back inside freezer and plugged in the wiring harness, fit panel back to original position and reinstalled the (4) panel screws. I once again plugged in the refrigerator and restored power. Everything is working fine.
All Instructions for the MSD2454GRW
31-45 of 710