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MRS22WHAD0
MRS22WHAD0 Frigidaire Refrigerator - Overview
Sections of the MRS22WHAD0
[Viewing 13 of 13]
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Door Shelf End Cap - Left or Right Side
PartSelect #: PS422444
Manufacturer #: 215267701
This end cap can be used for the right or left side of the refrigerator door shelf or the freezer door shelf. It is white in color, made of plastic material and measures about 2 inches high by 3 inche...
$5.25
In Stock
Defrost Timer - 60Hz 120V
PartSelect #: PS423801
Manufacturer #: 215846602
This Defrost Timer works like a clock by switching on the defrost heater circuit after a predetermined amount of compressor run time. This allows the defrost circuit to clear the evaporator of ice or ...
$38.64
In Stock
Lower Crisper Drawer
PartSelect #: PS461313
Manufacturer #: 5303289501
This lower drawer does NOT come with the front cover.
$126.09
In Stock
Upper Crisper Drawer - Front NOT Included
PartSelect #: PS461312
Manufacturer #: 5303289500
Front must be ordered separately.
$151.39
In Stock
Refrigerator Ice Maker Assembly
PartSelect #: PS12364147
Manufacturer #: 241798231
This 8-cube ice maker is used to create ice for your refrigerator. The ice maker receives water from the water inlet valve and will freeze until ice cubes are formed. Once the water has been frozen t...
$153.41
In Stock
Replacement Ice Maker
PartSelect #: PS735469
Manufacturer #: 5303918277
This replacement icemaker may also be known as the ice maker assembly and is compatible with your refrigerator/freezer. This assembly replaces the heat-release ice maker unit only. The kit comes with ...
$105.42
In Stock
Run Capacitor
PartSelect #: PS2333670
Manufacturer #: 5304464438
The run capacitor helps the compressor kick on and off while maintaining a constant temperature in your fridge and freezer. You may need to replace your run capacitor if your refrigerator or freezer s...
$53.53
In Stock
Light Bulb
PartSelect #: PS12751166
Manufacturer #: 316538904
This OEM 40 watt appliance light bulb is used for some ranges, refrigerators, freezers, and microwaves. Simply locate the existing bulb, unscrew it from its socket, and replace with new light bulb. If...
$19.73
In Stock
Defrost Thermostat
PartSelect #: PS469269
Manufacturer #: 5303917954
This limiter thermostat cuts out when the temperature inside your refrigerator reaches 55 degrees Fahrenheit and kicks back in when the internal temperature drops to 20 degrees Fahrenheit. If you disc...
$22.68
In Stock
Crisper Drawer Cover Support
PartSelect #: PS461210
Manufacturer #: 5303288973
This is the replacement crisper drawer cover support for your refrigerator. The crisper shelf rests on the support, which keeps it level. If your drawer cover or shelf will not stay level, or will not...
$28.21
On Order
Crisper Drawer Frame
PartSelect #: PS427282
Manufacturer #: 218147701
This acts as the shelving unit and also the glides for the crisper pans. NOTE: Glass NOT included. Frame only.
$91.44
In Stock
Door Shelf End Cap - Right Side
PartSelect #: PS447389
Manufacturer #: 3206165
This is the door shelf end cap for your refrigerator. It connects to the refrigerator door and keeps the door bar in place. Your refrigerator will have two shelf end caps, one for the right side and o...
$15.04
In Stock
Questions And Answers for MRS22WHAD0
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Common Symptoms of the MRS22WHAD0
[Viewing 20 of 20]Fridge too warm
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Ice maker not making ice
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Freezer section too warm
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Freezer not defrosting
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Will Not Start
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Leaking
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Noisy
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Fridge and Freezer are too warm
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Too warm
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Fridge runs too long
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Ice maker won’t dispense ice
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Won’t start
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Freezer too cold
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Fridge too cold
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Frost buildup
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Door won’t open or close
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Light not working
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Clicking sound
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Not dispensing water
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Doesn’t stop running
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Fridge got warm and freezer coils were frosted
Fridge is a side by side. The freezer is pretty narrow for a guy with wide shoulders.
Pulled plug.
Had to remove bottom drawers then used nut driver to remove screws closest to back wall in drawer runners. Once the back screws were removed the runners could be swung up or down out of way so back cover could be re ... Read more moved.
Once back cover was removed thermostat was located attached to top pipe going into coil using a spring clamp.
Cut the wires just outside the crimp connectors going into thermostat. Released the spring clamp buy squeezing botton together.
Removed old badly corroded thermostat.
I wish I had attached the crimp connectors to the new thermostat wires before mounting it. Reaching way in the back, while turning shoulders verticly and trying to get the wire connectors set from both sides was awkward and uncomfortable...The biggest PIA of the whole task.
Once connected I let the fridge (thermostat) cool for 10 min. Turned the dial defrost timer to get it into defrost mode. Stupidly touched the heating element to see if it was getting warm...it was very hot.
Coils steamed...every looked like it was working. Unplugged, put back cover back on and retattached drawer mounts.
Plugged back in and everying is working great!
Pulled plug.
Had to remove bottom drawers then used nut driver to remove screws closest to back wall in drawer runners. Once the back screws were removed the runners could be swung up or down out of way so back cover could be re ... Read more moved.
Once back cover was removed thermostat was located attached to top pipe going into coil using a spring clamp.
Cut the wires just outside the crimp connectors going into thermostat. Released the spring clamp buy squeezing botton together.
Removed old badly corroded thermostat.
I wish I had attached the crimp connectors to the new thermostat wires before mounting it. Reaching way in the back, while turning shoulders verticly and trying to get the wire connectors set from both sides was awkward and uncomfortable...The biggest PIA of the whole task.
Once connected I let the fridge (thermostat) cool for 10 min. Turned the dial defrost timer to get it into defrost mode. Stupidly touched the heating element to see if it was getting warm...it was very hot.
Coils steamed...every looked like it was working. Unplugged, put back cover back on and retattached drawer mounts.
Plugged back in and everying is working great!
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Parts Used:
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Stephen from Warrington, PA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
336 of 400 people
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Broken ice maker
Unplugged faulty ice maker, removed two screws holding it to the refrigerator and took it out. Reversed the operation with the new ice maker and after a few minutes presto, we have ice.
Parts Used:
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Juan from Miami, FL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Socket set
252 of 339 people
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Ice Maker Stopped Working
It was pretty straight forward. Remove the two screws that hold the unit to the wall of the freezer. In my case, I had to use a different ice maker than what came with the frig. In order to install the replacement unit they sent a wire adaptor so it would attach to the existing wiring. That too was all fine and dandy. The only p
... Read more
roblem was that the end of the wire adaptor did not fit through the existing hole in the rear of the frig. I used a utility knife to cut through the thin metal lining. That worked just fine. However, I could not cut through the insulation because I could not reach it through the small hole. The excess wire was supposed to be pulled through the hole and out through the back of the unit. So now the excess is between the wall of the freezer and the insulation. The unit is working wonderfully. In fact, it is making more ice than I can use. I am very pleased with the replacement unit. This is the 3rd ice maker that has been in this frig. All the others had a design flaw that had a leak in the rear of the unit. This caused all the ice to form into a big block. The replacement unit has not had this problem so far. Thank you for allowing me to explain my situation so that maybe others may benifit from my experience. Thank you. Jack
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Parts Used:
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JACK from MESA, AZ
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Screw drivers
163 of 179 people
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