MQU2057AEW Maytag Freezer - Instructions

I used a flat-head screwdriver to pop out the old light rocker switch. Then, I unplugged the wires, plugged them into the new light rocker switch, and then popped the new switch into the hole. That's it! Lights began working again.

Removed shelves from inside freezer then removed 4 screws holding cover panel. Pulled panel up and slightly pulled forward to remove. Removed wiring connections then removed two screws that held the motor & fan assembly. Removed the support bracket from the old motor and installed same on the support bracket. Reversed removal procedures for installation. Cover panel is a little bit of a problem when trying to reinstall. Put in panel as high as you can and then slide down. You must then exert a little pressure on the bottom portion to get it to seat correctly. Install four remaing screws and you are done. I had this repaired previously by a professional repairman and noticed from the pictures you folks provided that he had installed the screws on the support bracket incorrectly. That was the reason for the fan blade to rip apart.

An easy job for smaller hands. Removed the two bolts holding the light cover. Removed two electrical connections from the old switch by pinching the retaining clip,removed the switch, snapped in the new one and re-attached the connectors. Your online illustrations helped me to know that the plastic housing for the light switch would only swing down so far and was not intended to be removed. Saved me from breaking that plastic cover's tabs. This home repair saved me more than 5 times the cost of hiring a professional to do it. Very happy homeowner.

Remove lower door hinge only, and door pops out. Then lay door on floor and remove the screws fastening the inner freezer tray & gasket to the door; this is where the cordless drill w/nut driver attachment is handy as there are 30+ screws to remove and an open freezer with all your food gaining temperature. At this point drop the new gasket in the dryer on low heat for 5-10 mins to soften it, regardless of it's condition. Have someone clean the sealing area on the freezer and where you have removed the old gasket on the door while you fit the new gasket in. Renew all rusted screws and smear a little grease on hinge for future protection since the door is off. Remount door and check for leaks, the door should close and seal on it's own WITHOUT pushing. This is where I realised the importance of warming the gasket, I got lucky by passing a blow dryer along the leaking areas with the door closed.
Point: When buying a new freezer look for compression of the gasket which is an indicator of a warped door. My freezer is only 5yrs old and I shouldn't be changing the gasket so soon!

Replaced the compressor with the new one I purchased from you. Installed new parts and recharged unit. The refrigerator / freezer is working better than new. Thanks for the great deal on the compressor. It was here in 3 days. All the parts fit exactly and had no difficulty in the installation or startup. The directions for the wiring were a great help also. Thanks again.

The first thing I observed was the bolts that attach the motor to the mounting bracket were installed backwards at the factory. This caused the fan to catch on the bolt ends which resulted in the motor burning up. When I installed the new motor, I reversed the bolt direction. There is no way the fan will catch. The freezer works great !

Once I saw the replacement part I understood how to pry out the switch with a small screwdriver. Then just unplug the old one, plug in the new one and pop it into place.

The PartSelect site made it easy to correctly identify the correct part, it was inexpensive, and the shipping was fast.

I'm very pleased!

Turn off power to freezer. Removed two shelves, removed four phillip screws and cover. Used 5/16 nutdriver to remove two fan motor bracket bolts. Did not disconnect wiring, had enough room to flip motor over and remove broken fan blade and attach new fan blade. After reading remarks from another home tech, I reversed the bolts holding motor to bracket, so nuts would not come in contact with fan blades again. Still not sure why fan would of slipped down to break. Running good now!

Using a 3/8" wrench I took the top hinge off of the door. I had a friend around so I put him to work but the project could be done alone. We set the door on a countertop and began removing the old gasket with the nut driver on a cordless drill/screwgun. We eventually decided it was worth the extra effort to set the door on sawhorses in the garage (where the freezer is located).

I had stored the new gasket in the garage before installation and wished I had brought it inside to warm it up first. I remembered reading posts about using a hair dryer to soften the gasket but forgot about the post about putting the gasket in the clothes dryer for a few minutes. Stretching the new gasket around the door while it was cold was tricky in some spots but doable. One or two of the the corners of the new gasket began to pull apart but not enough to compromise the seal - although for the price of the gasket, I would have rather this not happened. I wish I would have used the clothes dryer first. Instead, we simply threw in a few screws in places and stretched the gasket around the corners. This was one time I was especially glad to have another person around.

After negotiating the corners and replacing all of the screws, we quickly placed the door back on the bottom hinge and put the top hinge back on. It was again nice to have a friend help square up the door before tightening the top hinge. We used a hair dryer to soften the gasket and a lot of hand work to mold the gasket and close the gap beyween the door and the freezer. Again, I think the clothes dryer would have saved time here as well. The gasket was quite compressed and needed a lot of work to help it "open up" and make a good seal.

Good luck on your own repair!

tested bulb good ,replaced door switch first(least expensive)then ordered light socket and circuitboard.If clicking sound is heard replace circuitboard first to save on return shipping because the switch and socket where ok

After observing defrost timer go into (and out of), defrost cycle, I checked continuity of heating element. Since heater coil was intact (79 Ohms of resistance), I figured the defrost thermostat (aka bi-metal therm.), had to be at fault. The new part ($17.00), proved my suspicions correct. As I sought to determine if everything worked, I had to wait for the temp. to drop below the defrost therm. set point before I would see the heater coil get hot.
To avoid the costly failure in future, I bought a Chaney wireless therometer with two remote sensors. Sensors require lithium batteries. $30.00 for both are a cheap insurance system.

Just replaced the switch, but unfortunately that was not the problem; nor was it the bulb....so I am back to square one.
But Parts Select is a great place to order from. Thank you.

My seal around the freezer door was in need of changing. Placed the new seal in the dryer for about 10min while I removed all the screws from around the door. When I got to the bottom of the door the screws were rusty. Removed the old seal. Have back up screws on hand incase this happens. I cleaned the area at the bottom of the door that had become rusty. Then draped the new seal over the top of the door and started screwing the new one to the door. It was done! Pretty quick and easy.

It was so easy!

Thanks for the rush to my home on the part.

I just unscrewed the plate that locks in the light switch (screwdriver) and unplugged the old faulty part and plugged in the new switch, screwed the cover back on and I was done!

Easy!

And I am not Mr. Fix-it!

Followed other instructions posted. Put gasket in dryer for a few minutes. My son held gasket back while I removed/reinstalled screws. It would have been much more difficult if I had attempted to do it by my self