MMW5527BAW Maytag Wall Oven - Instructions

Removed the oven door by opening slightly, then pic door up to remove. Remove 2 screws holding oven sensor in place, gently pull on sensor to remove, had to remove about 8 inches to get at plastic connector. Unplug connector, had to use an adapter cable supplied with the PartSelect kit to install new sensor, push cable back into opening, reinstall 2 screws. The oven works fine! Note that due to thermal lag the temperature overshoots to 370 degrees and undershoots to 340 degrees, this appears to be normal oven operation. Putting door back in place was easy.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the sensor out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Next, I connected new sensor and screwed the new sensor back in place. One area for caution. Make sure that the electrical connection is pushed in past the insulation on the back side of the oven. Failure to do so will cause the plastic plug connector to melt from oven heat.

Removed and replaced above named parts, rewired.Be sure to tighten all nuts that secure wires. I believe this is what caused the problem.

First I removed the two philips screws inside the oven that hold the element in place. Then I pulled the sensor out and the two insulated wires through the hole to reveal the plastic connector. I unsnapped it from the connector and replaced it with the new element. Then, behind the oven, I removed five or six philips screws on the right side of the large panel so I could pull the wires back through the layer of fiberglass insulation to make sure only the sensor itself would be exposed to the oven's heat. I then secured the back panel again and replaced the two philips screws holding the sensor in place.

Pulled oven out of the cabinet/wall and pulled sensor out and replaced with new one.

A few years previously I had this same problem and a PROFESSIONAL had replaced the sensor.
Thus this time I knew what the failure was and obtained the sensor from Part Select. Having observed the PROFESSIONAL replace the sensor before; I followed his easy technec only to learn that when the sensor was pulled from the aft wall of the oven that the wires had deteriorated and the plastic plug melted. Therefore it was neccessary to remove the oven from the wall cabinet. Then I removed the panel from the back outside of the oven, cut back the wires and because the kit from Part Select contained additional connectors was able to splice in a replacement connector. Installed the new sensor and reinstalled the oven. LESSON LEARNED; when the PROFESSIONAL had replaced the sensor he had failed to feed the wiring and plug back past the insulated chamber, directly behind the oven, into the cool area assessable by the panel on the aft side of the oven thus the plug and wires were exposed to the heat of the oven. What would commonly be a few minutes job turned into an afternoon project.

It was so easy....a cave man could do it.

Power off to oven, 2 screws, swapped the elements, 2 screws back in. Keep the original screws. The only delay we had was the right screw was a little hard to "start".
Once we had it tightened up, we turned the breaker back on and wah la....we had our oven back!

Shipping was much faster than expected!

Removed the old sensor by removing two screws and pulling the wire out through the hole. Disconnected the connector and discarded the old sensor.
Selected the correct connector of the 3 provided, plugged the new sensor in and threaded the wire back into the hole paying special attention to make sure wire and connector was on the backside of the insulation. Assembled the two screws and tightened.

First, thanks to PartsSelect for getting the part to me so quickly. I went to the "Instant Repairman" , checked all that applied to my problem. The answer was the sensor, 99% of the time.I used a coat hanger to pull the latch back and open the door. I watched the video and followed the instructions to remove the old sensor. The wires were melted but the plug was still good. I used one of the adapters to install the new sensor, then replaced the two screws inside the oven. I pulled the stove out because I had read in the reviews that you needed to get the plug behind the insulation away from the oven wall. I was lucky ,there was a small hole in the back ,right behind the sensor.I gently pulled the wire and plug to the back ,well away from the oven wall. Put the stove back in place ,threw the breaker and was back cooking again!! My stove has a downdraft vent, took me longer to hook the vent back up than to install the sensor..Oh yes, did I say,I am a75 year old female and I did it all myself..

Checked online to see what F3 readout on stove meant. It meant replace sensor. Ordered part on a Sunday and part delivered Tuesday, Monday being MLK day. Detached bad sensor(2 screws inside oven)had to pull new sensor connector through hole from behind as insulation was too heavy (only removed 4 screws on right rear panel.Clipped wires together and reattached sensor inside oven. A cakewalk.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires to remove the old sensor. Went on line to find out where to order it from. Ordered it, It was on back order but was only about 1 week to receive. Reversed the procedure. WA LA. It works great.

Purchased 2 piece broiler pan from this site

Removed the two screws holding the element in place. I then pulled the element and wiring out until I saw the connecter. I disconnected the two wires and then chose the correct connector from the package, snapped it back into place, put the screws back, turned on the breaker then tested the oven and found that everything was working correctly.
This is the second time I have ordered from Part Select, the first time was for a front LED panel on the same appliance. With the help finding the part you need and the comments from other customers I have saved a lot of money by repairing these problems myself. Oh, and the best part is the look on my husband's face when he came home and found out the repairs were made by me and not a repairman that he said I should call. He said he would laugh when the first repair by me didn't work but who's laughing now : )

Turned the circuit breaker to "off"
Unbolted the unit from its cabinet (4 screws - visible when the oven doors are open - secured the unit in its cabinet)
Slid the unit out of the wall about 2 inches
Removed the control panel.
Unbolted the cooling fan assembly
Unplugged the assembly from the wiring harness
Removed the cooling fan from the oven

Plugged in the new cooling fan
Bolted the new fan in place
Replaced the control panel
Slid the unit back into position
Bolted the unit in place
Turned the circuit breaker back on
Tested

No problems - the hardest part was having to reach to the back of the oven from the front.

As the video described I just unscrewed the sensor from inside the oven. Although I couldn't pull the wiring harness through the insulation (the wires were gathered in back with a wire tie) just four screws to loosen the back panel for access to the connection. My wife says it seems to be heating perfectly now.