MMC5193AAB Maytag Microwave - Instructions

I looked up the #1 reason for no heat for my microwave on the site , and using my model number found that 92% of the time it was the Black Sleeve Diode. Ordered the $15 part, and installed it within 30 minutes. Most of the time was used for removing the built in microwave and removing the cover. Replaced the diode by finding it on the diagram that I printed from this site (free). Very relieved that we don't need to have our custom cabinetry re-sized to accommodate a new microwave. Thank you!

First I removed upper front grill by removing two Philips head screws on top and pulling off. This exposed the Philips head screw which holds control panel in place. After removing screw I pushed up on panel and it came off to expose fuse. With needle nose pliers I removed old fuse and again with pliers held new fuse in position. With the help of a bladed screwdriver, I pushed new fuse into holder, then replaced panel, screw and grill. This took less than 15 minutes even as one of the wires on control panel pulled out of connection and took some time to locate where to reconnect, otherwise was an easy fix
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Found instruction on internet,
1. Remove anit-tampering screws with punch and hammer
2. Remove the rest of the screws
3. Removed cover
4. Remove burned out bulb and installed new one
5. INstalled cover
6. Installed screws including the anti tampering onces
7. Op tested unit.
Wife is happy.

Jenn-Air Microwave would not turn on. Clock worked , light worked, timer worked and would count down .I changed' Part #0813140 Switch, Micr} cost $8.99 plus shippingNow it works Thank You for good advise

Removed 4 small star head screws from back of microwave, lifted body off, removed blown fuse and replaced with new one (found where cord enters). This model is stainless inside and out and I like it a lot. It is also sold by Daewoo and a few other manufacturers.

Replaced diode works great. your website said 92% diode was problem and it worked. Order fuse in case old was blown did not have to use it.

We have a Jenn-Air microwave and oven combination that is installed as a "stack" in a cabinet. The light bulb had burned out, and I read some of the posts on the partselect.com site about how others performed this replacement; ours was a bit different.
To replace the microwave light bulb, we had to remove the entire microwave and oven stack from the cabinet. There were four anchor screws on the sides (two on each side) of the microwave that were driven in perpendicular to the face of the microwave. There were four more screws that were on the sides of the oven that could be accessed once the oven door was open.
With those anchor screws removed, we had to carefully pull the entire microwave / oven stack from the cabinet to reach the top cover of the microwave. We used an old wooden crate to hold the front of the oven and left the back of the oven resting in the cabinet enclosure. This gave enough room to access the screws on the top cover of the microwave, without having to lift the entire stack down to the floor.
At this point, I could unplug the microwave power cord, which was plugged in to a socket built into the top of the conventional oven part of the stack.
The top cover of the microwave was attached with regular Phillips head screws, so those were easy to remove. Several other instructions indicated I would need a torx or star drive screwdriver, but I did not.
Once the screws were removed from the top cover of the microwave, the cover can slide rearward to be removed. However, there are two metal strips that run vertically along the sides of the microwave and at the top of the microwave, these bends over at a right angle over the top of the microwave. The top cover has tabs that sticks up vertically from the cover, so that the bent strips prevents the cover tabs from passing as the cover is slid backwards. The vertical strips have several screws connecting it to the body of the microwave. On one of the vertical strips, I removed the two of these screws closest to the top of the microwave. Then, I gently pushed a wood chisel, because of the bevel angle, between the vertical metal strip and the microwave body. This moved the bent-over portion of the vertical strip far enough away from the microwave that the tab on the top cover cleared the strip, and I could then remove the top cover.
With the top cover removed, I could see the old light bulb. It is attached with a push-in electrical connection that was easily pulled off. One Phillips head screwdriver held the old bulb in place towards the rear of the microwave. Towards the front of the microwave, a small plastic post holds the front of the bulb. I removed the screw and pulled out the old bulb.
The new bulb fits easily into the same plastic post and screw connection. However, the new bulbs connector prongs are bent at a 90 degree angle to the original bulb. Instead of sticking straight out from the microwave, which was how the old bulb was configured, the new bulb prongs pointed to the right side of the microwave (as viewed from the front). Fortunately, the wiring harness in the microwave that connects to the light bulb had a zip tie that was loose enough to get enough slack for the push-in connector to reach the new bulb's prongs.
After the bulb was in, I reversed the steps described above, making sure to leave the chisel in place until the top cover had been secured back in place. Once the chisel was removed from the vertical metal strip, the bent portion again would prevent easy removal of the top cover. I made sure to plug the microwave power cord back into the outlet on the conventional oven, then we slid the entire unit back into the cabinet enclosure, and I put the anchor screws back to hold the stack into the cabinet.
Three of us worked on this - mostly to help pull the stack out of the cabinet and to help steady it while the front was resting on the wood crate. This is not a single-person job. It was not terribly difficult, but the number of steps is very tedious. I found a helpful YouTube video "How to uninstall/install a Jenn-Air JMC8127DD/JMC8130DD Microwave Oven" posted by Ali The Handy Man. Being able to see that the microwave and oven stack was connected by a "bridge" (as Ali calls it) was a major help in tackling this.
After this, we suspect that Jenn-Air must have not wanted any repairs to their appliances. As I said above, this repair to replace a light bulb seemed unnecessarily tedious.

I mistakenly thought I had to remove the microwave to get to the back, not so. I would have had access to what I needed to unscrew; but I have to admit the hassle of taking it down and putting it back equals having to work on it attached to the shelf-your call on how you do this. I unscrewed the front top to remove the vent piece that is across the top front of the microwave. This will reveal the control panel screw. (While you have the vent removed you might want to clean the vent and the exposed filter.) carefully lift and pull out control panel. I unplugged a piece as the wires were tied tight. It will not completely detach, so carefully tip it back from exposed insides. The fuse is not clear but white with silver ends so look in upper right for it. I popped it out and replaced it. Replugged the wired part to cover and carefully fit tabs in and slide down to secre. Replace screw, replace vent piece and secure screws on top of microwave. I plugged it in to test before putting it back above my stove.

remove outer cover of microwave, (special recessed star bit required) change bulb, unplug and remove 1 phillips screw.

Removed case,
Discharged HV capacitor and removed cooling fan.
Unscrewed ground end of HV diode and unplugged from HV capacitor.
Installed new diode by reversing the order. In my case, the problem was the magnetron was bad, so I replaced it as well.

removed a dozen screws-discarded large cap-replaced diode-replaced a dozen screws(took longer to replace them than remove for some unknown reason). Microwave now works(wife happy).

There were two hard parts for me to work through.

The first was breaking off the two screws that need a special head screwdriver to remove. None of my special special head screwdrivers worked (I have a few), so I used a hammer to force them off.

The second hardest part for me was finding the correct replacement bulb on-line. My Amana Microwave is a combo Microwave/Convection type, and it's a strange little bulb - almost tube like.

Once I did find the right bulb on this PartSelect.com website it was a breeze. The part was delivered in just a couple of days (even during this Covid-19 pandemic). Once I had the replacement bulb in hand it barely took 5 minutes to install.

Thanks PartSelect!!

I had to unmount the over-the-range microwave oven to be able to gain access to the interior of the oven. Complicating removal (and re-installation) was the fact that there is a "pot-filler" faucet installed directly underneath the oven. In retrospect, I should've removed the faucet before doing the repair, but "c'est la vie."

After I got the microwave down, removing the case was also "interesting." I get bonus points for the fact that the previous owner must've had to replace the same diode before - and then re-assembled the microwave case incorrectly - thereby adding to the confusion (BTW, the service manual that I found online said nothing about how to remove the oven's case).

To remove the case, undo all the screws holding it on, and then rotate the case upwards from the back while also pulling the case backwards. There are crimped folds on the inside of the case that mate with the back edges of the front of the oven's chassis, and these folds have to be unclipped from the chassis in order to remove the case.

Replacing the diode itself was the easiest part of the job. The two connectors on the diode are of different types, making it impossible to install the diode with the wrong polarity.

BTW, the diode that had failed was not an OEM diode; I suspect it was a generic component that had been installed by a repairman sometime between 2004-2008 (when our home's original owners still owned the home). On the other hand, the new diode from PartSelect is an OEM part (it came packaged in a sealed Whirlpool bag).

The fact that the oven had stopped heating indicated that it was either the high-voltage diode or the magnetron that had failed. Since a replacement diode costs ~ 1/10th as much as a replacement magnetron, I figured it made sense to replace the cheaper part first. Fortunately, this fixed the problem.

One last thing: I tried testing both the old and new diodes for conductivity and polarity using my volt-ohm meter (VOM), but I was unable to get either diode to "turn on," even though my VOM is powered by a 9-v battery, and I used the 2-Mohm range setting. I guess the test voltage of my el-cheapo VOM isn't high enough to exceed the diode's threshold voltage, (even though I have successfully used this same VOM to test low-voltage diodes).

1. Order correct light bulb for unit and have it with you before removing old lightbulb.
My Microwave is built into cabinet.
2. Disconnect power (Either turn breaker off or unplug unit from wall)
3. Remove face cover on cabinet. (4 Phillips head screws)
I was able to reach in the opening in the cabinet and unplug from the wall.
4. Remove Phillip head screws holding microwave in cabinet.
5. Remove microwave from cabinet.
6. Remove Phillip head screws and torx screws holding outside cover on the back of unit and the side (1 on right side) and then remove cover.
Light bulb is on the top front right side.
7. Remove 1 philip head screw holding light bulb and unplug quick connector wires.
8. Plug quick connector into new light bulb same way it came out and place new light bulb in place and put the 1 philips head screw holding it back in place.
9. Put cover back on and all the screws. Temporary plug the unit in to test light bulb works before securing it back into cabinet.
10. Reverse order 5,4,Plug unit in wall before putting the face back on.
Done.

Access is via RT. SIDE Panel as you face microwave. There are three screws on the bottom right edge to loosen. After that the side panel slips down and off. the fuse is located in the rear near where the power cord comes in. It is the white ceramic tube 1/4" in dia. and 1-1/2" long. Pull it out like any fuse and replace with new one. Reassemble and you are done!