Models > MLE19PNAYW

MLE19PNAYW Maytag Washer Dryer Combo - Overview

Sections of the MLE19PNAYW

[Viewing 15 of 15]
Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump".
Drum Support Roller Kit – Part Number: 12001541
Drum Support Roller Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(179)
PartSelect #: PS1570070
Manufacturer #: 12001541
The drum support roller (Dryer Drum Support Roller, Drum Roller and Washer Assembly) holds the drum in the proper position while it spins on the support wheels. This part rotates on the roller shaft w...
$13.50
  In Stock
Front Glide Kit – Part Number: 306508
Front Glide Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(38)
PartSelect #: PS1804752
Manufacturer #: 306508
The front glide is located at the front of the dryer, the drum rides along it. If you hear a metal-on-metal noise when your dryer is running, your front glide may be worn out and require replacing. Th...
$14.70
  In Stock
Roller Shaft – Part Number: WP6-3129480
Roller Shaft
★★★★★
★★★★★
(3)
PartSelect #: PS11743031
Manufacturer #: WP6-3129480
This roller shaft is also known as a support roller shaft or a drum roller axle, and is a part for your dryer. The function of this piece is to act as the axle for the drum roller; it provides a place...
$9.81
  In Stock
Multi Rib Belt - 91-5/8 Inches – Part Number: WP33002535
Multi Rib Belt - 91-5/8 Inches
★★★★★
★★★★★
(33)
PartSelect #: PS11741110
Manufacturer #: WP33002535
This multi rib belt spins the dryer drum during the drying cycle. This belt is 91-5/8 inches in length, 3/8th of an inch wide and has five ridges. It is black in color and made of rubber. You may need...
$28.37
  In Stock
Retaining Ring – Part Number: WP9703438
Retaining Ring
★★★★★
★★★★★
(3)
PartSelect #: PS11746909
Manufacturer #: WP9703438
This part is a retaining ring, sometimes called a retaining clip, that holds the drum support roller onto the shaft of a dryer. It is made entirely of metal and measures less than an inch in diameter....
$7.88
  In Stock
Idler Pulley Wheel and Bearing – Part Number: WP6-3700340
Idler Pulley Wheel and Bearing
★★★★★
★★★★★
(13)
PartSelect #: PS11743032
Manufacturer #: WP6-3700340
The idler pulley tightens the drive belt to properly spin the dryer drum. It is attached to an idler bracket. This part comes with the idler pulley and center bearing. To replace this part, you will n...
$22.11
  In Stock
Drum Roller Shaft Washer – Part Number: WP312535
Drum Roller Shaft Washer
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
PartSelect #: PS11740748
Manufacturer #: WP312535
If you notice that your dryer is noisy or will not tumble, then you may need to replace the drum roller shaft washer. This drum roller shaft washer is just under an inch in diameter and is sold indivi...
$13.79
  In Stock
Door Catch Kit – Part Number: LA-1003
Door Catch Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(20)
PartSelect #: PS2162263
Manufacturer #: LA-1003
This door catch kit is designed for use in dryers. This is an authentic OEM replacement part. This catch assembly ensures the door of your appliance will close, and remain closed. It allows your appli...
$32.34
  In Stock
Dryer Drum Felt Seal – Part Number: WP33001807
Dryer Drum Felt Seal
★★★★★
★★★★★
(4)
PartSelect #: PS11741074
Manufacturer #: WP33001807
This is a drum felt seal for your dryer. It creates an airtight seal between the dryer rear panel and the back of the drum. It is important that this seal be flexible so it does not interfere with the...
$15.93
  In Stock
Idler Pulley Shaft Washer – Part Number: WPY312527
Idler Pulley Shaft Washer
PartSelect #: PS11757538
Manufacturer #: WPY312527
This idler pulley shaft washer is used with many clothes dryers. It is less than an inch long, and it is black in color.
$13.45
  In Stock
Tall Baffle – Part Number: WP33002032
Tall Baffle
★★★★★
★★★★★
(14)
PartSelect #: PS11741085
Manufacturer #: WP33002032
This part moves the clothes around inside your dryer and helps to direct the flow of hot air during the drying cycle. NOTE: Screws are NOT included.
$41.62
  In Stock
Short Baffle – Part Number: WP33001755
Short Baffle
★★★★★
★★★★★
(20)
PartSelect #: PS11741064
Manufacturer #: WP33001755
This part moves the clothes around inside your dryer and helps to direct the flow of hot air during the drying cycle.
$46.00
  In Stock

Questions And Answers for MLE19PNAYW

We're sorry, but our Q&A experts are temporarily unavailable.
Please check back later if you still haven't found the answer you need.

Common Symptoms of the MLE19PNAYW

[Viewing 10 of 10]
Noisy
Fixed by
these parts
Fixing Fixing Fixing
Show All
Leaking
Fixed by
these parts
Fixing Fixing Fixing
Show All
Door won’t close
Fixed by
these parts
Fixing Fixing Fixing
Show All
Marks left on clothes
Fixed by
these parts
Fixing Fixing Fixing
Show All
Will not drain
Fixed by
these parts
Fixing Fixing
Show All
Too hot
Fixed by
these parts
Fixing Fixing
Show All
Burning smell
Fixed by
these parts
Fixing
Show All
Will not agitate
Fixed by
these parts
Fixing
Show All
Spins slowly
Fixed by
these parts
Fixing
Show All
Drum Not Spinning
Fixed by
these parts
Fixing Fixing
Show All
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Spinner making loud whining noise.
As Typical with this Neptune front load washer, the Water Seal fails to keep water from getting into the bearings. The bearings start to sound like a jet engine at high speed spins once the grease is washed out (nice grease splatter at the back of the cabinet). You can replace the Lip Seal but the bearings are not part of the kit. It is a waste of time to replace the seal kit if the bearings are already bad or going bad. You can't buy the bearings from here or any other appliance part store. You have to purchase a new tub in order to get new bearings, at $500+. Not worth it. I purchased the Lip Seal Kit with the intention of removing the bearings and replacing. The instructions that come with the kit explain with diagrams how to disassemble. In order to remove the spinner from the outer tub, I had to remove the whole tub, place it face down on some 2x4's and hit the spinner shaft with a hammer and block of wood to get it out of the old bearings. It came out fairly quickly. I removed the old lip seal (you can use the two access holes at the back of the outer tub to bang out the lip seal with a nail) and using a hammer and screwdriver, banged out the front bearing in the outer tub from the back and through the back bearing. This took a little while of moving around the bearing edge and tapping out, especially since there is a pipe spacer between the 2 bearings. It can be moved partly out of the way. The spacer will fall out with the front bearing. I then removed the C-clip that holds in the back bearing and banged out using the same method as the front bearing but from the inside. It too took a lot of tapping around the edges due to lots of corrosion. Once I had the bearings out, I looked up the make and model printed on the covers. Order using a DDU designation which is a rubber seal on both sides, like originals. I cleaned up the bearing mounting surfaces using a dremel tool and wire brush attachment. Make sure you get the metal free of any contamination. Use grit paper if necessary. I also sanded down the spinner shaft and got the spindle nice and shiny. I inserted the larger front bearing first (use a little grease on outside edge), it was a very tight fit and had to tap in using a hammer and metal rod. Make sure it is all the way in. Install the new seal kit (mine was the crummy original design, not the revised one). With the spinner tub on the floor shaft up on some 2x4's (light coating of grease on shaft), place the outer tub over the spinner with the shaft inserting through the new bearing and out the back. The shaft isn't an interference fit with the front bearing so it should slide in easily. WIth the shaft fully inserted, install the pipe spacer (cleaned up) then place the back bearing (outside edge greased) over the shaft and into the outer tub. This is an interference fit and will have to be tapped into place. It also was a tight fit into the tub. WIth it part of the way into the tub, I installed the belt pulley and tightened it down using a longer bolt than supplied, and this pushed the bearing the rest of the way in. I then installed the the C-ring. Not sure why the C-ring is needed with the bearing being such a tight fit. I installed the tub assembly back into the washing machine cabinet and installed the pulley and belt.. After reassembling the complete washer (after much cleaning of dust and soap scum, etc) I ran the unit once with no clothes to make sure any contaminates (grease, etc) where washed out first. So far so good, nice and quiet. If it last me another 5-10 years I will be happy. It will fail again for the same reason since I had to use the same lame seal kit and didn't have the revised version un
Parts Used:
Lip Seal Kit
  • Richard from Greenville, NH
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
322 of 345 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Bad bearings on inner drum
Unplug and turn off water.....Removed belt drive cover. Rolled belt off of pulley. Removed pulley from back of splined shaft. Removed front door and front panel. Removed two screws that hold top of washer down, 4 screws that hold detergent/bleach tray to top and tilted top back. Removed 4 screws that hold door seal assembly to frame. Popped clips from back of seal away from outer drum. Note locations to reinstall. Pulled small hose away from seal assembly (located at bottom of door seal. Removed door seal assembly. Removed torx screws from tumblers in inner drum to access nylock nuts that hold inner drum to spinner. Removed inner drum. Pulled spinner shaft from outter drum. Removed seal from inside outer drum where shaft passes through bearings. Knocked outside bearing out with drift from inside outer drum. Be careful no to nick/scratch bearing fit or shoulder. Go to the back of the machine and knock the inner bearing out using same method. TAKE YOUR TIME. Outer drum 600 bucks, so don't mess it up. Bearings are available at local bearing shop. NSK 6206DU and NSK 6207DU. Cleaned well and made sure that bearing fits were in good shape. Cleaned up spacer that fits between bearings. Note the way it comes out of the bearing holder (it is tapered on one end). Tapped outer race of inside and outside bearings into fits (barely) after lying the spacer between the bearings in the bearing sleeve. Used threaded rod and some washers of the proper size to pull bearings together. Tapped outer races to make sure that they were seated. Check spacer sleeve fit between inner races (hold it up in the proper location with your fingers....should be snug. Pressed new seal in per directions. Trial fit spinner into bearings/spacer. Installed pulley and belt. Note how bearing spacer and shoulders and pulley clamp inner races together so that you don't get any slip/slop/slap. Reassembled in reverse. Only problem I had was with the door latch manual releast that I accidently clamped between the bleach/detergent dispenser and lid when closing it up....had to adjust. Drank beer and bragged to wife. Been about 20 loads no....no leaks and as quiet as it was new. Took about 2 hours to take it apart and about 3 to put back together....Not a bad job. Definitely cheaper than an outer drum assembly.
Parts Used:
Lip Seal Kit
  • Michael from Cache, OK
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
159 of 162 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Motor buzzed and dryer drum would not spin when pressing start
From the first time the motor buzzed (but dryer tumbler then started to turn), 2 weeks elapsed for the dryer drum to stop turning altogether. If this occurs, DO NOT continue to push the start button because the motor armature wiring will heat up and the insulation will begin to melt and smell - a SAFETY HAZARD. Unplug dryer and lockout/tagout as appropriate.

Through basic troubleshooting, discovered the motor had seized up. Since the unit was about 10 years old and it had to be disassembled for replacement, the decision was made to replace "likely to fail mechanical components including motor, belt, both rear drum rollers/shafts, idler arm pulley/assembly/wheel, associated washers, snap rings and both front glides. Reviewed the PartSelect website and drawings, ordered the parts and they delivered on time. Buy the correct sized snap rings at a local hardware, they're much less expensive. Also once inside your dryer, you'll likely find alot of lint to vacuum out...have fun.

I went online and Googled several resources that showed how to remove the front dryer panels, as well as PartSelect repair stories. From that point on, I took photos as I was disassembling so I would know how to put it back together. Utilize pictures or whatever system you prefer to keep track of taking something apart and putting it back together.

Remove the dryer door, then the front panel Disconnect wires to the light, dryness sensor and door switch. Note belt and pulley configuration that is near the motor-this will help you later when reinstalling the belt. Also note if the ribbed side or the flat side of the belt is against the outer drum wall. Remove the door shroud.

Slip the belt off the idler pulley wheel. Remove front drum support, then dryer drum Note which end of the dryer drum is the front and the orientation of the glides on the drum support. Discard old belt. Drill out and remove the old front glide supports, then install/rivet the new glides.

Remove both old rear drum rollers/shafts, washers, etc. The rear drum roller shafts are secured to a back bracket by a hex nut....feel around you'll figure it out. Replace new roller shafts. Lightly grease using a high quality silicon grease, then replace new washers, roller, snap ring, etc

Carefully unplug wiring harness on motor, there are fragile clips on each end. Don't forget a separate ground wire from the harness is attached to the motor mount bracket. Carefully release tension on the idler arm spring. Using the correct size nut driver, remove three screws (on this model) then take out the motor/idler arm assembly. Remove the old idler arm/pulley assembly. Remove the motor mount clips on each end of the mount (I used a wide blade screwdriver). Remove and replace the motor. Motor configurations changed after Whirlpool bought Maytag, so orient it correctly insuring mounting gasket "nubs" on each end of the motor correspond to the cutouts on the motor mount. Reinstall the motor mount clips. Replace the new idler arm assembly/pulley wheel; grease moving parts with high quality wheel bearing grease. Replace motor/mount bracket assembly back into the dryer. Replace ground wire to motor mount bracket and plug wiring harness back in. Reinstall idler arm spring.

Place belt back on the dryer drum and move into place on rear rollers. Reinstall front drum support. Dryer drum should turn relatively easy. Insure belt is oriented on the drum correctly before connecting belt to motor shaft end and idler arm wheel pulley (the picture you took comes in handy here).

Reinstall the rest of the parts in reverse.
Parts Used:
Idler Arm and Shaft Idler Pulley Wheel and Bearing Roller Shaft Idler Pulley Shaft Washer Multi Rib Belt - 91-5/8 Inches Drive Motor - 115V Drum Roller Shaft Washer Front Glide Kit Drum Support Roller Kit
  • Frederick W. from Austin, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set
198 of 280 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!