MGRH752BDW Maytag Range - Instructions

in and out in 15 min ,is easy when part fit.

Removed old gasket and replaced with new gasket'

Took my right hand twisted burner off unplug wires pluged them back into new burner and put burner back on done 3 mins tops.

I tried to take it out from the inside as the vidio shows. But it would not come out far enough. I pulled out the stove and removed back sheet metal panel. Unpluged the electric, Unhooked the temp sensor,pulled it out from the oven side. Put the new one through the hole,and rehooked it up. And got to clean up the dust and my missing oatmeal I spilled a while back. Turned it on. Checked it with a spare temp gage. Works so far.

I lifted up the bottom insert of the inside of my oven and then followed the instructions on this site. Originally I purchased the wrong igniter, so I would encourage you to look at yours and make sure you are buying the right part. I am a complete novice. Even with my purchase debacle, my oven was back up and running within 5 days (total cost was $60). Do this even if you are scared of a screwdriver. Just remember to turn off the gas first. Make sure you've turned off the gas by trying to light a burner (if your burners are otherwise working correctly). If it doesn't light, the gas is off and there is nothing to be afraid of. The igniter is far enough away from the gas pipe that I wasn't afraid of breaking it and once I saw how the oven was put together, I wasn't afraid of working on it. And, if you need to return anything, the return policy is awesome.

This oven is part of a stand-alone gas (propane) stove. It was purchased and installed in July, 2005. The igniter I ordered from PartSelect arrived as promised. But the connecter on the new igniter did not match the connecter on the old one. I had to either find an igniter with a compatible connecter or splice the old connecter to the new igniter; I chose to splice. Now, I'm not a real handyman, and I'm especially skittish around electricity. But I found two wire connecters (plastic tube-like things with metal interiors). I stripped about a 1/4-inch from all four wires and inserted them into the wire connecters, making sure the igniter was properly placed so the screw holes lined up. Then I used the crimper tool to crimp the wires together. I did a pull test to make sure the wires were secure, replace the now connected wires in their proper place and turned the oven on. It worked! On this particular stove, you'll need a screwdriver to remove the vent cover, exposing the igniter wires. Due to the gas connection in the back of the stove, you can only pull the stove out so far. So, there's not a lot of room to work in the back of this stove; that's why it took a lot longer to complete this job than the wiring inself. I'd say no more than fifteen minutes. Of course, if all the parts are compatible, even less. Good luck!

We received the burners we ordered in timely manner, and it was very easy to install. Just unhook the old burners and drop the new ones in and connect.

First, only replaced the electrodes for lighting the stove burners. Nope, that wasn't the problem. Then replaced the burners -- that was the problem. Easy fix -- to bad I had to buy the electrodes first. Parts came in just a couple of days. Really surprised about how fast the parts shipped.

i took out the new peace from the frame and i replaced into the old frame then i chopped the new plug also chopped off the old plug i connected the wires with electric tap then it got ready to plug in the new peace

It was difficult to do the repair since the screws and bushings were not included with the handle.

Fisrt, I removed the oven door by opening partially and lifting it up. It made it much easier to do the job. After removing the racks and bottom oven pan, I removed the two nuts holding the old igniter in place and then unplugged it from the wiring connector. Replaced the new one in the opposite order and BAM!, I was done. Five minutes, maybe...Nothing to it. I ordered the short oven sensor also, but didn't need it. Will just keep it on hand for possible future use.

My first suggestion, after turning off the power to the unit, is to take the oven door off. Two simple screws and it's off! It makes getting to the temperature sensor much easier. I also moved the oven out so I could get access to the back to remove the rear panel. The ordered part came with two pigtails, neither of which fit my oven wiring harness. I cut one of them and the wiring from the faulty sensor, spliced them together with wire nuts and made my own connection harness. The new sensor went in with little effort. The wiring went together flawlessly with the spliced connection protected between the oven cavity and rear panel. Reattached the rear panel and the oven door, then slid the oven back into place. Turned on the electricity and back to normal! Problem resolved!!

First I took the door off and outside to dump the glass in the trash which I had some Kevlar gloves so not to get cut. Removed the three screws on the bottom trim piece and the two on the sides remove the outside face glass next remove the four screws that hold the next glass. This glass is in a frame there is bent tab on one corner unbend open frame and install inner glass close frame rebend tab and reinstall all the parts.

Watched a video on replacing igniter. Removed old igniter and replaced it with new igniter.

twist old burner and lift out disconnect two wires throw away gasket (if there is one left) connect two wires to new burner set in and twist till tight total time 45 seconds