Models > MGR5750ADW > Instructions

MGR5750ADW Maytag Range - Instructions

All installation instructions for MGR5750ADW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the range repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the MGR5750ADW
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Rusted sealed burner

  • Customer: John from Rockaway NJ
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 9 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
The burner rusted after years of spaghetti pots boiling over. When I went to twist the the burner to remove it the top portion broke off. This left the bottom side of the burner stuck into the cook-top. I put some 3-in-1 oil on the rusted rim for a day or two. I had to drill the phillips head screw and twist it with a vise grip. I used a pair of pliers to grab the center of the broken-off burner part. After a few tries it broke loose and was out. The rest was easy. I recommend sealing the rim between the burner and the cook-top. I used silicone sealant. This should keep the water from leaking underneath the burner and into the cook-top.

burner would not light; ignitor did not produce spark

  • Customer: Candace L. from Woodinville WA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 9 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Take a few screws off the back of the slide in burner module. Take off the back. Unscrew the ignitor screw, remove ignitor carefully, replace with the new ignitor, put the screw back in, put the back back on, try it out! Ours worked after a couple of tries - don't know if the ignitor had to "rev up" by several sparks or we just didn't have it properly installed at first. Anyway, very easy. Did it in my pajamas on a Saturday morning.

Handle to top oven coming off

  • Customer: Robert from Dayton OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 8 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
It wasn't the handle that was broken, it was what the handle was attached to that was. I removed the door by opening to first detent and just lifting the door upward. Once off, I removed the screws on the top sides and underneath - a total of 9. This allowed me to remove the edging on the sides and underneath - the front glass came with it as well. Then I removed the Top trim by removing a screw on each of the sides and two on the front - this was the piece that was broken. Since I had already disassembled most of the door, I went ahead and dismatled the rest so that I could clean everything. The pieces that would fit went into the dishwaser and the rest (including the glass) I washed by hand (except the white insulation pieces of course). I did take apart the double glass panel by lifting up on a bent tab on one of the corners - this allowed me to clean the insides as well as the groves in which the glass sat. After everything was clean, I reassembled everything in the reverse order substituting the new trim for the old.

Notes: The top of the trim piece has two diferent screws - two short ones that screws into the trim piece itself and two that go through to the door metal. The screw that I ordered ended up being one of the short ones and I wanted the other. The snap nut was correct, and was what the longer screw to the trim actually grabs on to. I ended up using one of my own screws that fit like a dream, but wasn't painted white. The other note is that the sheet metal that the trim piece screws into from the front was slightly stripped. All I had to do was to place the metal on a hard surface and hit the holes with a hammer to bring them back into a usable form - not ideal, but worked nonetheless.

Oven stopped while the wife was cooking.

  • Customer: Marsha from Concord MA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 9 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Range is 20+ year old 'condo issue' and difficult to pull from wall since previous owner had tiled it in. Going in from the back was going to be a pain.
Removed the oven door by opening slightly and pulling up. Removed grilles. Removed bottom of oven by sliding 2 latches in the back forward and pulling it up. Removed 2 screws holding igniter (long-style) to the rear of the burner. Cut power to the range and snipped the 2 igniter wires as close to the igniter as possible, leaving me only about 1 inch of wire to work with. Removed 2 screws holding old plate to rear of the back of the interior of the oven. Snipped off the connector on the new igniter. Carefully stripped about 3/8" of insulation off of all wires and used hemostat to hold wires together while applying the wire nuts. Used hemostat to work the wire nuts and excess wire back into the hole. Stuffed the hole with supplied insulation. Attached new back plate with original screws and attached igniter to burner with original screws. Reapplied power to range and did a test light. It worked, so I reassembled the rest. For me, the worst part was holding the wires together so the wire nuts would 'take', while working inside of the oven. But, an easy and successful job!

Gas oven took longer and longer to light off even though glow igniter was glowing. When the time grew to 10 minutes and more I knew a repair was needed.

  • Customer: Joseph from West Hartford CT
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
I first removed the bottom of the oven and the flame guide to uncover the igniter assembly. Then I applied WD40 to the two Philip head screws and unscrewed them to release the old igniter. The two wire leads from the igniter went into the back of the oven and I could not reach the connection block. So I pulled the oven out far enough to get behind it and took off the panel covering the electrical wires in back. I had previously disconnected the electrical cord from the wall outlet. After I determined that I could not remove the connection block I returned to the igniter and cut the two existing wires close to the ceramic igniter assembly. I marked the top wire with a Sharpie pen so that I would not mix up the new leads when I install the new igniter. Although it was awkward to work inside the small oven space I was able to strip the insulation back about 1/2 inch and then connect the new igniter wires using the twist caps supplied with the kit. I pushed the wires back into the space and added the insulating material supplied. The igniter assembly was then installed with the original two screws and the other oven covers and flame guide reinstalled easily. After reconnecting the power outlet the oven was back in operation with ignition of gas flame within a minute or so. It was a good feeling and now we do not need to consider replacing the gas range.

Oven would not heat but Broiler would

  • Customer: Robert from Hudson OH
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
Turn off the gas supply and unplug the power cord. Remove the screw on the back plate for the metal tab that covers the valve. Bend the tab up to expose the valve. Remove the gas line that feeds the broiler with an adjustable wrench. Remove the mounting screw for the valve. Loosen the valve inlet gas line fitting with an adjustable wrench. Lift the valve out. Reverse the steps to install the new valve.

door glass broken

  • Customer: Mariano from Staten Island NY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 10 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
My wife called a service company and was told that a tech would have to inspect the stove.
service charge 60.00 After inspection the parts would be orderd and a 200 fee for labor plus the parts would be charged at the completeion of the job. 2 weeks for part. I found you on the net orderd the glass. got it in 2 days and I completed the repair in 20 mins. Cost 89.00

Oven would not preheat and gave 'F1' error

  • Customer: Joshua from Reno NV
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
Had to unplug unit, remove back of unit (6 screws), then unscrew oven sensor (2 screws), then unplugged old sensor, replaced it and put back of oven on...Moving the oven out and working in the tight space avaialble was the most difficult. Other than that, super easy job that probably saved me a lot of $$$...

Door Trim (bottom channel) had rusted due to a spill of tomato sauce down the front of the oven and into the channel.

  • Customer: G Lloyd from Cypress TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
The door trim is held in place by five (5) screws. First I removed the two (2) side screws and then the three bottom screws. Be very careful because the trim holds the front glass panel in place. The repair can be made without removing the front door of the oven. Just remove the bottom drawer to get to the bottom three screws. Took approx. 15 to 20 minutes to complete. That's because I took the time to clean the inside of the glass panel. Really easy!

When the oven was turned on, F2 and F4 came on. Oven wouldn't heat.

  • Customer: Crystal from Scott City MO
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
After reading some of the repair stories, I was hesitant about doing this task. It was really very simple, I just removed the screws from the back of the stove, and removed the old element. I then replaced it with the new one and replaced the back cover. This whole task from start to finish took 10 minutes. The oven heats perfectly now just like a new oven.

oven would not maintain temp

  • Customer: doyle from demorest GA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
. First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires...) pushed wires back in and secured sensor

oven won't stay light

  • Customer: Shannon from Lake Park IA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
removed racks, bottom plate. removed screws with a little bit of help from cooking spray. Unclipped old ignitor clipped in new ignitor, used old screws, and inserted insulation replaced racks, bottom shelf. Turn on oven and worked, been using it for about a week now. PS. ordered on monday morning arrived wednesday afternoon.

out side glass shattered and plastic housing brittle and broke

  • Customer: Shirley from Hudsonville MI
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
we took the oven door off the hinges and placed it on a flat surface (out side face up)

Took the door handle and top plate off and set aside the screws.

Cleaned the glass that remained and all the other parts.

Attached the new plastic top door trim, and the slipped in the replacement glass. No instructions on how to use the foil strip we ordered, so we didn't use it

Tightened all the screws and put the door back onto the hinges, making sure we didn't use the handle to carry the door or to slide the stove back into place. The weakest link here is using the oven door handle to pick up / move the stove. We just opened the oven door and put our hands inside the oven.

The burner igniter would not spark to light the burner.

  • Customer: Margie from San Antonio TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 8 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
I had to unscrew 4 screws on the burner unit and then 2 screws on each igniter. slip the olds out and the new ones in and then replace all the screws. And wa la they sparked and I was cooking again.

two broken front burner gas tubes

  • Customer: george from burlington CT
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 8 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
removed the 4 screws that hold down the top of the unit. removed the top . changed the burner orifices (4) to LP size on the new parts .(LP kit included) removed old broken burner tubes . replaced with new .Be sure to get left and right correct. the burners work great. It couldn't have been easier. and best of all my wife seems happy that she has the two front burners working again! thanks , George
All Instructions for the MGR5750ADW
31-45 of 362