Models > MGR5750ADW > Instructions

MGR5750ADW Maytag Range - Instructions

All installation instructions for MGR5750ADW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the range repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the MGR5750ADW
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igniter would light----gas valve would NOT open

  • Customer: Robert from SALEM IL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 17 of 24 people found this instruction helpful
SHUT OFF GAS
disconnect FLEX LINE from gas PIPE
remove GAS pipe from rear of stove
remove rear panel
remove pre-shaped gas lines to burners and oven / broiler
separate dual control valve from pressure regulator
disconnect wiring from dual control valve
REASSEMBLE in OPPOSITE order
turn on gas
CHECK ALL FITTINGS FOR POSSIBLE LEAKS
Turn on each BURNER - making sure EACH one lites
turn on oven - making sure that the OVEN igniter lites the OVEN
set control on BROIL
turn on broiler - making sure that the BROILER
igniter lites the BROILER

Door handle and trim broke

  • Customer: RICHARD from Stafford VA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 15 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
1st removed the door from the hinges by sliding it up. Then removed all the screws holding the door together. Then removed the screw securing the trim. Removed the screws from inside the trim holding the old handle... replaced the handle and trim. replaced all screws in reverse order. Replaced the door on the hinges. all done

Oven wouldn't lite

  • Customer: E Blake from Dauphin Island AL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 14 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
Pulled off the oven door, just lift straight up. Pulled out the floor of the oven, very easy just lift from the back. The only problem I had was the screws holding the old igniter wouldn't come out, they just spun. I snipped them off and picked up two new ones at the hardware store. Pull the wiring harness in through the hole in the back of the oven. Unsnap old wiring harness, snap in new one. Reattach the new igniter, replace floor, replace door. Turn on oven and cook food... fairly easy repair.

oven takes a long time to reach temp set point

  • Customer: Scott from Brooklyn Park MN
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 12 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
i need to replace the lower oven igniter about 2-3 years
unplug the oven
open the oven door half way then slide the door up
take out both racks
push the bottom pan away from you and lift up
one screw holds the igniter on
pull the wire out until you get to the electrical plug
disconnect

oven door inner glass pane broke

  • Customer: Kimberly from Ascutney VT
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 11 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
removed oven door, removed screws from bottom and sided, door is in layers, removed door layers like taking apart a sanwhich layer by layer, once i got to the inner layer i just had to bend out the little tab on the frame,remove the broken pane and place in the new one, bend the tab back and then put the door back together layer by layer, it was very easy and saved me money, and frustration in dealing with a repair man from a well known company who tried to tell me I needed to replace the whole door as the glass was factory sealed in the door, WELL! this girl's hair may be blonde but not that blonde, I received the glass the very next day, and it took me 40 minutes tops to replace the glass, EASY! KC

Oven would not light

  • Customer: Richard from Austin TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 11 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
This oven was located in a rental house I own.

I first removed the metal plate that covers the burners at the bottom of the oven. No tools required for this step.

Next I turned the oven to 300 degrees, waited 30 seconds and noticed that the igniter was glowing brightly, but the burners did not light.

I next turned the oven controls off, pulled the plug, and set to work removing the 2 screws holding a plate to the back oven wall and the 2 screws holding the igniter to the burner. These last 2 screws had corrosion on them and I needed to use vise-grips to get a firm hold on them. During reassembly these screws no longer held firmly because the hole they threaded into was enlarged during disassembly.

With the screws loose I pulled the igniter and fished the wires connected to it through the opening until I saw the connector. I then pulled the stove out of its opening and saw that there was a easily removable metal cover over the wires, and I took it off.

The new igniter came with an incompatible plug, so I cut off the connector on the stove wiring and on the new igniter and used wire nuts to make the new connections. I kept the orientation of the old and new plugs the same way in case the wiring mattered, but that was just being safe. I don't know if the igniter cares which of its wires go to which wire on the stove.

I reinstalled the screws holding the igniter, and shoved short sections of the supplied wiring into the screw holes so that the screws would hold more tightly. I shoved the supplied insulation into the opening that the wires passed through, and reattached the cover at the back of the stove.

I shoved the stove back into its opening, turned the oven on and it lit within 15 seconds.

I was very happy with the result, and the product I ordered arrived on time, well packaged and I'm a very happy customer.

Oven would not light -- gas smell

  • Customer: Mark from Rockwall TX
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 11 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
Remove racks and pull out stove from wall. Remove back cover from stove. Unscrew and unplug sensor. Rethread new sensor wire through hole and plug in new sensor and rescrew plate that holds in place.

We had complications because of how the stove was installed, which delayed the "fix" time considerably.

Also installed ignitor. It was determined that both were bad. Gas would come on but not light. When oven would light, it would not re-light periodically to keep the temperature up, causing gas smell. This added time to repair of an additional 1 hour, and required removal of bottom drawer.

Overshooting temperatures upon changing settings

  • Customer: James from Palmdale CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 11 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
Look in the oven. On the upper left corner is the sensor. Remove two screws. Gently pull the wire and connector through the hole and insulation. Disconnect old sensor, replace new. Gently push the connection through, then finish pulling through from behind the stove. Replace the screws inside the oven. Done.

The oven door outer glass was shattered

  • Customer: William from El Paso TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 10 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
I ordered the door glass from Part Select, which arrived quickly and in good condition. I loosened two sets of screws under the bottom glass holder frame, removed three screws at the top of the door to give more room. Slid the glass in place, re-installed and tightened the screws.The stove door looks great and works great. Great customer service too.

oven temperature not correct

  • Customer: Wayne from Hopedale IL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 9 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
Pulled the oven away from wall to access rear of oven. Disconnect electric plug from duplex outlet, turn off gas supply ball valve. Removed two screws that retain sensor on inside of oven. Disconnected two prong sensor connector at rear of oven. Tied a length of string to sensor connector wires. Pulled old sensor out through front of oven. Use the string to tie onto new sensor connector wires and pull new sensor into place from rear of oven. Retain sensor with two screws. At back of oven, used connector jumper supplied with part package to make connection to existing connector.

Burners would not light and the flame would come out from the bottom of the burner.

  • Customer: juan from aurora IL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 9 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
A quarter turn counter-clockewise and the burner came out. Disconnect the old wires and connect the new wires. Place the burner in its place and a quarter turn clockwise and it was set.

Kept getting F3 errors

  • Customer: Daniel from Long Beach CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 9 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
My oven stopped working and the display read F3 error. I looked up the code and found that it was probably the thermostat sensor. I ordered the part from partselect.com and when it arrived I went to install it but I ran into a somewhat scary issue. I found that I had to pull my oven out of the wall in order to replace the sensor.

After a minor nervous breakdown, I decided to go for it and found that it was much easier than I had imagined. Changing the sensor involves taking out the two screws that hold the sensor in place (inside of the oven), pulling it out to the point you can reach the connector, plugging in the new sensor and screwing it back in place. However, if you have an oven like my model, you have to pull out the whole oven from the wall in order to reach the plug on the sensor. This sounds like a lot of trouble but for me it was very easy. The oven is held in place with screws around the front side. Most are easily accessed and you don't have to take out any critical/complicated pieces of the oven. My screw gun made short issue of the problem and I found that the oven was out of the wall within minutes. I could then easily unscrew a small back cover, change the sensor and then screw the oven back into the wall. Being very careful, the whole operation took about 20 minutes. I recommend that you get help from a friend just because the oven is bulky. It is not heavy, an average sized male can handle the weight but it’s easier with a friend. Also, be careful that the gas hose which feeds the oven is long enough (and not tangled) for you to move the oven out of its space. Obviously, be careful about gas leaks.

oven comes on to temp but will not reheat to a new temp third time trouble with same range

  • Customer: william from newport VT
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 9 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
first of all i have one advantage even though i am 70 yrs old i had a appliance shop for sears in the 60s and 70s and have not forgotten to much of the basics i am still in the security business and up on electronics. last time i had the company repair the oven , 70 dollars for the part 75 dollars for the svs call. (first igniter was on full warranty) well this time i decided to look for trhe part myself, i just went on line typed in oven repair parts and eventually all these sites came up. yours was the most professional looking and i took a chance. guess what everything you promised you delivered. price quality USA made parts and delivered in three days . opened package went to work less than fifteen minutes back in business.
will sure use you again if the need arises thank you

Handle to top oven coming off

  • Customer: Robert from Dayton OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 8 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
It wasn't the handle that was broken, it was what the handle was attached to that was. I removed the door by opening to first detent and just lifting the door upward. Once off, I removed the screws on the top sides and underneath - a total of 9. This allowed me to remove the edging on the sides and underneath - the front glass came with it as well. Then I removed the Top trim by removing a screw on each of the sides and two on the front - this was the piece that was broken. Since I had already disassembled most of the door, I went ahead and dismatled the rest so that I could clean everything. The pieces that would fit went into the dishwaser and the rest (including the glass) I washed by hand (except the white insulation pieces of course). I did take apart the double glass panel by lifting up on a bent tab on one of the corners - this allowed me to clean the insides as well as the groves in which the glass sat. After everything was clean, I reassembled everything in the reverse order substituting the new trim for the old.

Notes: The top of the trim piece has two diferent screws - two short ones that screws into the trim piece itself and two that go through to the door metal. The screw that I ordered ended up being one of the short ones and I wanted the other. The snap nut was correct, and was what the longer screw to the trim actually grabs on to. I ended up using one of my own screws that fit like a dream, but wasn't painted white. The other note is that the sheet metal that the trim piece screws into from the front was slightly stripped. All I had to do was to place the metal on a hard surface and hit the holes with a hammer to bring them back into a usable form - not ideal, but worked nonetheless.

Oven stopped while the wife was cooking.

  • Customer: Marsha from Concord MA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 9 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Range is 20+ year old 'condo issue' and difficult to pull from wall since previous owner had tiled it in. Going in from the back was going to be a pain.
Removed the oven door by opening slightly and pulling up. Removed grilles. Removed bottom of oven by sliding 2 latches in the back forward and pulling it up. Removed 2 screws holding igniter (long-style) to the rear of the burner. Cut power to the range and snipped the 2 igniter wires as close to the igniter as possible, leaving me only about 1 inch of wire to work with. Removed 2 screws holding old plate to rear of the back of the interior of the oven. Snipped off the connector on the new igniter. Carefully stripped about 3/8" of insulation off of all wires and used hemostat to hold wires together while applying the wire nuts. Used hemostat to work the wire nuts and excess wire back into the hole. Stuffed the hole with supplied insulation. Attached new back plate with original screws and attached igniter to burner with original screws. Reapplied power to range and did a test light. It worked, so I reassembled the rest. For me, the worst part was holding the wires together so the wire nuts would 'take', while working inside of the oven. But, an easy and successful job!
All Instructions for the MGR5750ADW
16-30 of 362