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Models > MGR5750ADW > Instructions

MGR5750ADW Maytag Range - Instructions

All installation instructions for MGR5750ADW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the range repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the MGR5750ADW
16-30 of 366
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Oven would not heat- Beeped nonstop and flashed F3

  • Customer: Erin from Greenwich, CT
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 22 of 26 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed two screws that hold the oven sensor in place. I then removed the screws that held the panel on the back of the oven. I simply unclipped the plastic adaptor and replaced the old sensor with the new one. I screwed the sensor back in and put the back panel on. turned the power back on to the oven and hit the bake button. Voila!! The oven turned on and now it works like new!!!

Door handle and trim broke

  • Customer: RICHARD from Stafford, VA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 22 of 26 people found this instruction helpful
1st removed the door from the hinges by sliding it up. Then removed all the screws holding the door together. Then removed the screw securing the trim. Removed the screws from inside the trim holding the old handle... replaced the handle and trim. replaced all screws in reverse order. Replaced the door on the hinges. all done

oven takes a long time to reach temp set point

  • Customer: Scott from Brooklyn Park, MN
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 19 of 21 people found this instruction helpful
i need to replace the lower oven igniter about 2-3 years
unplug the oven
open the oven door half way then slide the door up
take out both racks
push the bottom pan away from you and lift up
one screw holds the igniter on
pull the wire out until you get to the electrical plug
disconnect

The oven door outer glass was shattered

  • Customer: William from El Paso, TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 19 of 22 people found this instruction helpful
I ordered the door glass from Part Select, which arrived quickly and in good condition. I loosened two sets of screws under the bottom glass holder frame, removed three screws at the top of the door to give more room. Slid the glass in place, re-installed and tightened the screws.The stove door looks great and works great. Great customer service too.

Oven would not light -- gas smell

  • Customer: Mark from Rockwall, TX
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
  • 19 of 23 people found this instruction helpful
Remove racks and pull out stove from wall. Remove back cover from stove. Unscrew and unplug sensor. Rethread new sensor wire through hole and plug in new sensor and rescrew plate that holds in place.

We had complications because of how the stove was installed, which delayed the "fix" time considerably.

Also installed ignitor. It was determined that both were bad. Gas would come on but not light. When oven would light, it would not re-light periodically to keep the temperature up, causing gas smell. This added time to repair of an additional 1 hour, and required removal of bottom drawer.

Oven wouldn't lite

  • Customer: E Blake from Dauphin Island, AL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 18 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
Pulled off the oven door, just lift straight up. Pulled out the floor of the oven, very easy just lift from the back. The only problem I had was the screws holding the old igniter wouldn't come out, they just spun. I snipped them off and picked up two new ones at the hardware store. Pull the wiring harness in through the hole in the back of the oven. Unsnap old wiring harness, snap in new one. Reattach the new igniter, replace floor, replace door. Turn on oven and cook food... fairly easy repair.

igniter would light----gas valve would NOT open

  • Customer: Robert from SALEM, IL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
  • 20 of 27 people found this instruction helpful
SHUT OFF GAS
disconnect FLEX LINE from gas PIPE
remove GAS pipe from rear of stove
remove rear panel
remove pre-shaped gas lines to burners and oven / broiler
separate dual control valve from pressure regulator
disconnect wiring from dual control valve
REASSEMBLE in OPPOSITE order
turn on gas
CHECK ALL FITTINGS FOR POSSIBLE LEAKS
Turn on each BURNER - making sure EACH one lites
turn on oven - making sure that the OVEN igniter lites the OVEN
set control on BROIL
turn on broiler - making sure that the BROILER
igniter lites the BROILER

Rusted sealed burner

  • Customer: John from Rockaway, NJ
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 16 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
The burner rusted after years of spaghetti pots boiling over. When I went to twist the the burner to remove it the top portion broke off. This left the bottom side of the burner stuck into the cook-top. I put some 3-in-1 oil on the rusted rim for a day or two. I had to drill the phillips head screw and twist it with a vise grip. I used a pair of pliers to grab the center of the broken-off burner part. After a few tries it broke loose and was out. The rest was easy. I recommend sealing the rim between the burner and the cook-top. I used silicone sealant. This should keep the water from leaking underneath the burner and into the cook-top.

oven door inner glass pane broke

  • Customer: Kimberly from Ascutney, VT
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 15 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
removed oven door, removed screws from bottom and sided, door is in layers, removed door layers like taking apart a sanwhich layer by layer, once i got to the inner layer i just had to bend out the little tab on the frame,remove the broken pane and place in the new one, bend the tab back and then put the door back together layer by layer, it was very easy and saved me money, and frustration in dealing with a repair man from a well known company who tried to tell me I needed to replace the whole door as the glass was factory sealed in the door, WELL! this girl's hair may be blonde but not that blonde, I received the glass the very next day, and it took me 40 minutes tops to replace the glass, EASY! KC

Kept getting F3 errors

  • Customer: Daniel from Long Beach, CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 16 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
My oven stopped working and the display read F3 error. I looked up the code and found that it was probably the thermostat sensor. I ordered the part from partselect.com and when it arrived I went to install it but I ran into a somewhat scary issue. I found that I had to pull my oven out of the wall in order to replace the sensor.

After a minor nervous breakdown, I decided to go for it and found that it was much easier than I had imagined. Changing the sensor involves taking out the two screws that hold the sensor in place (inside of the oven), pulling it out to the point you can reach the connector, plugging in the new sensor and screwing it back in place. However, if you have an oven like my model, you have to pull out the whole oven from the wall in order to reach the plug on the sensor. This sounds like a lot of trouble but for me it was very easy. The oven is held in place with screws around the front side. Most are easily accessed and you don't have to take out any critical/complicated pieces of the oven. My screw gun made short issue of the problem and I found that the oven was out of the wall within minutes. I could then easily unscrew a small back cover, change the sensor and then screw the oven back into the wall. Being very careful, the whole operation took about 20 minutes. I recommend that you get help from a friend just because the oven is bulky. It is not heavy, an average sized male can handle the weight but it’s easier with a friend. Also, be careful that the gas hose which feeds the oven is long enough (and not tangled) for you to move the oven out of its space. Obviously, be careful about gas leaks.

oven burner would not come on.

  • Customer: Theodore C. from Winsted, CT
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 13 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
I am a retired lp Gas service person so this was quite
simple for me. Replaced the oven Igniter. What amazed me I placed my order and had the Igniter less than 24 hours. thank you so much for the quick service.

burner would not light; ignitor did not produce spark

  • Customer: Candace L. from Woodinville, WA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 14 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
Take a few screws off the back of the slide in burner module. Take off the back. Unscrew the ignitor screw, remove ignitor carefully, replace with the new ignitor, put the screw back in, put the back back on, try it out! Ours worked after a couple of tries - don't know if the ignitor had to "rev up" by several sparks or we just didn't have it properly installed at first. Anyway, very easy. Did it in my pajamas on a Saturday morning.

Oven stopped while the wife was cooking.

  • Customer: Marsha from Concord, MA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 14 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
Range is 20+ year old 'condo issue' and difficult to pull from wall since previous owner had tiled it in. Going in from the back was going to be a pain.
Removed the oven door by opening slightly and pulling up. Removed grilles. Removed bottom of oven by sliding 2 latches in the back forward and pulling it up. Removed 2 screws holding igniter (long-style) to the rear of the burner. Cut power to the range and snipped the 2 igniter wires as close to the igniter as possible, leaving me only about 1 inch of wire to work with. Removed 2 screws holding old plate to rear of the back of the interior of the oven. Snipped off the connector on the new igniter. Carefully stripped about 3/8" of insulation off of all wires and used hemostat to hold wires together while applying the wire nuts. Used hemostat to work the wire nuts and excess wire back into the hole. Stuffed the hole with supplied insulation. Attached new back plate with original screws and attached igniter to burner with original screws. Reapplied power to range and did a test light. It worked, so I reassembled the rest. For me, the worst part was holding the wires together so the wire nuts would 'take', while working inside of the oven. But, an easy and successful job!

Overshooting temperatures upon changing settings

  • Customer: James from Palmdale, CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 13 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
Look in the oven. On the upper left corner is the sensor. Remove two screws. Gently pull the wire and connector through the hole and insulation. Disconnect old sensor, replace new. Gently push the connection through, then finish pulling through from behind the stove. Replace the screws inside the oven. Done.

Gas oven took longer and longer to light off even though glow igniter was glowing. When the time grew to 10 minutes and more I knew a repair was needed.

  • Customer: Joseph from West Hartford, CT
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 12 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
I first removed the bottom of the oven and the flame guide to uncover the igniter assembly. Then I applied WD40 to the two Philip head screws and unscrewed them to release the old igniter. The two wire leads from the igniter went into the back of the oven and I could not reach the connection block. So I pulled the oven out far enough to get behind it and took off the panel covering the electrical wires in back. I had previously disconnected the electrical cord from the wall outlet. After I determined that I could not remove the connection block I returned to the igniter and cut the two existing wires close to the ceramic igniter assembly. I marked the top wire with a Sharpie pen so that I would not mix up the new leads when I install the new igniter. Although it was awkward to work inside the small oven space I was able to strip the insulation back about 1/2 inch and then connect the new igniter wires using the twist caps supplied with the kit. I pushed the wires back into the space and added the insulating material supplied. The igniter assembly was then installed with the original two screws and the other oven covers and flame guide reinstalled easily. After reconnecting the power outlet the oven was back in operation with ignition of gas flame within a minute or so. It was a good feeling and now we do not need to consider replacing the gas range.
All Instructions for the MGR5750ADW
16-30 of 366