Quick Question!

Have you ever purchased from PartSelect.com before?

Models > MFI2568AES Maytag > Instructions

MFI2568AES Maytag Refrigerator - Instructions

All installation instructions for MFI2568AES parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the refrigerator repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the MFI2568AES
16-30 of 581
Search Instructions
Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump". Need help?

compressor clicking but not turning on

  • Customer: brice from irving, TX
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 39 of 48 people found this instruction helpful
I just opened up the fridge back panel accessed the old relay/capacitor, pulled it out, replaced with the new one, snapped it back into place, tested it (compressor came on), replaced the back panel and went on my way. Really, really easy repair.

Broken top mount mullion, broken pin and deli tray lid

  • Customer: George from Washingtonville, NY
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 41 of 54 people found this instruction helpful
Parts arrived quick and installed easy. One reveiwer said his wife did theinstall and that was my inspiration. Thank you.

The pin on the right side of the end cap broke off.

  • Customer: Clarence from Gold River, CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 35 of 38 people found this instruction helpful
1. I had to remove the cold cut drawer.
2. Remove the two screws for the sliding track and then the sliding track.
4. Remove the two crisper drawers as well as the glass and the two supports for the glass.
3. Remove the two screws for the end cap. This is accomplished by gently lifting up at the front of the part. You will find another three parts that are attached to the end cap. One is the slider that controls the tempetature, it is attached to a long plastic rod that is connected to the back side of the end cap by pressure clip points. The other end of the plastic rod is connected to a piece that is mounted to the back wall of the refridgerator. this is removed by gently pulling the entire unit forward until it comes loose from the back wall. Once the entire assembly is removed, The plastic rod must be released from teh back of the end cap. This will allow both ends to be disconnected from the slider at the front and the piece that was attached to the back wall by rotating each end to allow the removal of the components fronm the end cap. Once everything is removed, you are ready to complete the repair by reversing the removal process.

Wife dropped a gallon of milk on the lid and cracked the see through panel

  • Customer: Stanley from Gurley, AL
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 20 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
Pushed the hinge pins aside and removed the old lid.. Reversed the process to install the new lid

Plastic pegs holding bin cover broke off on both sides

  • Customer: Roberta from St. Louis, MO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 20 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
Not a bad job at all. Took out the vegetable bins above, the glass cover and the sliding drawer. Then took out the screws holding the end caps on to the refrigerator wall. You can remove the metal slide at this time or after you take the old piece out. Then you re-install the metal slide on the new piece and screw it back in. THe right hand side is trickier because you also have to remove the mechanism in the back that controls the humidity inside the bin as well as the control lever in the front, so that you can install them on the new end cap. All the parts either snap on or you have to twist them slightly. We repaced both end caps as well as cleaned things really well in about 45 minutes, with 2 adults and a 10 yr old working together.

Front Ice Maker Display Flashing and Ice Maker Door Flapping Open and Closed

  • Customer: Dave from granite Bay, CA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 25 of 36 people found this instruction helpful
I firts pulled the refrigerator away from the wall. Un plugged it and removed a metal cover off of the back of the fridge. A clear plastic container was behind the metal pael. Removed the connectors and snapped the pld board out, Put in the new one and reinstalled the cover. Had to get the code number from theinside of the frifge and entered it into the front key pad. This step took a bit of figuring to advance the numbers using the key pad but with some trial and error...Repair done.

Plastic frame broke

  • Customer: Don from Lake Crystal, MN
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 26 of 39 people found this instruction helpful
Through out broken plastic, replace with new one
to be replaced in a few years.

replace plastic wheels on refridgerator

  • Customer: robert from oak forest, IL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 22 of 31 people found this instruction helpful
I used board levers to do one side at a time.Kinda tricky, but you can hoist up fridge high enough to replace wheels. take your time think it out and be safe . Make sure you use saftey boards to support load to protect yourself==good luck A small mirror may help to see how the rollers alien in the supports.

needed to replace filter

  • Customer: Marilynn from Holland, MI
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 22 of 31 people found this instruction helpful
Turned old one until it snapped out. Replaced it with a turn.

Lid to chef pantry would not work.

  • Customer: Rodger from Marion, IL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 18 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the drawers and shelf above the pantry drawer and then removed the pantry drawer. The end cap came off very simply by removing two screws. I removed the slide attachment to the old end cap and attached it two the new end cap. I then installed the new end cap and replaced the drawers and shelf. The lid to the chef pantry popped right in place. Job complete.

front control pannel blinking/ice door openning &closing by self

  • Customer: Rick from Lynnwood, WA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 18 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
After the repairman came and was going to charge me 500.00 to fix, I got on the net and found this site. Located the issue, part, and ordered it. The only trouble I had was locating the board in the fridge? It's right in the back behind the metal door, duh. Unplug each wire harness, pull board out and replace the board and plug harnesses back in. Took under 5 minutes from start to finish. It took longer to program it, after two tries I re-read the program instructions sent with the board and presto it works perfectly!!! A Big thanks to part select.com. ps if the fridge is cooling correctly you can take the top left cover off unplug the harness there and get a few days worth of cool out of it before it goes out completely but I would suggest the overnight ship if you are already dead, 24 bucks is a small price to pay to be up and running within 24 hours.

End cap pin broken

  • Customer: Emilio from Clinton, MD
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 17 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
The end cap is a very easy job to remove. Removed the three screws that hold the end cap in place using a 1/4 drive socket. Removed sliding rail which is affix to end cap to be reused with new end cap. Installed new end cap with the three screws and your done very easy. What made the job possible was the ability to identify the part from the PartsSelect.com web site which has excellent parts identification catalog.

Center rail broke AGAIN

  • Customer: Diane from Glendale, AZ
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 20 of 27 people found this instruction helpful
This is the 2nd time I had have had to replace the center rail in 2 years....

Refrigerator Control Switches not functioning

  • Customer: William from Richmond Hill, GA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 24 of 40 people found this instruction helpful
I removed and replaced the suspect Control board. The problem with the select switch not responding still existed. I then ordered a new “PS2371545 Dispenser Front Overlay – Black”. This cured all but one of the non responsive select switch problems. I notified PartSelect that I received a defective board and they promptly sent a replacement Overlay. This cured my problem. Thank you for your Help with my problem. I highly recommend your company. Bill S.

Icemaker door opening and shutting

  • Customer: Paul from Phoenix, AZ
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 17 of 22 people found this instruction helpful
Maytag Ice2-0 French Door refrigerator

Our refrigerator started slamming the icemaker door open and shut one evening. Investigation of the card behind the icemaker control panel (the LV control card) on the left-hand door revealed that the +12 volt supply that the card receives via J1 pin 3 was running at about 7 volts. As part of this investigation, I found that a wiring diagram for the fridge is in a sticky envelope behind the kickplate/grill at the bottom front of the 'fridge.

I was confused for a while because the +12 volt supply is floating, so measurements against the 'fridge frame gave very strange results. When I figured that one out, I got consistent results by measuring against J1 pin 1.

I disconnected J6 from the HV control card, located at the back of the 'fridge, and found that the +12 volt supply recovered to about 11.9 volts, so I suspected that the problem was that it was being loaded down by something. This supply gos to three places...the icemaker fan, the LV control card, and the evaporator fan (in some units)

I eventually found how to access the connector that feeds the icemaker, and disconnected it, in order to eliminate the ice fan from the supply. This made no difference, and the resistance across the supply was now 2800 ohms with J6 disconnected. I also noted that the two smoothing capacitors (C12 & C13) on the HV control card were getting hot...probably due to a high ripple current. As a load of 2800 represents a load current of only 4.3 mA, I concluded that the fault was on the HV card.

The +12 v supply is generated by an AC/DC rectifier directly off the 115 volt supply, giving a primary voltage of nearly 300 volts DC. This is chopped by a little horror of a device called a TOP247. It generates an AC waveform and drives a little transformer to generate +12 volts. This sort of circuit can be highly unstable, and it probably went into a high frequency mode, chopping at several megahertz.

Replacing the HV control card solved the problem. I have retained the card, and I intend to reverse engineer it's schematic, then try to repair it. The card cost about $150, but the actual defective component is unlikely to cost more than a few dollars, and I have a suspicion that the two electrolytic capacitors (C12 & C13) may be the cause.
All Instructions for the MFI2568AES
16-30 of 581