MEW6630BAS Maytag Wall Oven - Instructions

Parts arrived in three days and it was an easy swap of the hinges but the same problem still existed: the oven door wouldn't close completely, so the oven light stayed on and the convection wouldn't work either unless the door closed all the way. The replacement hinge's springs apparently aren't strong enough to close it and the springs aren't adjustable - which is a design flaw. I did correct the problem though, by using three dollars worth of 1" round magnets, which I placed inside the door: they stay put and are strong enough to pull the door tight.

This is a Jenn-Air double oven. Turned off circuit breaker to the oven. Removed 7 screws that hold the top panel in place. Removed 3 cable/connectors from the clock module so panel can be removed from oven and placed on a table. Unscrew 4 hex head screws attaching clock module to front panel. Press on two tabs and remove circuit board from plastic frame. Replace with new board reversing dis-assembly sequence.

After examining the old board I discovered that the 470 microfarad aluminum electrolytic capacitor (in the corner) was badly deformed. I replaced this. Now I have a spare board. I believe that the failure (common in Jenn-Air ovens) starts with a transient on the power line (it did with mine). This damages the capacitor which progressively gets worse. This capacitor probably acts as a low pass filter on the power supply for the display. If any of you are into electronics, I would suggest wiring a zener diode across the capacitor to suppress transients. I wish the Jenn-Air engineers had put this in the design. It would have avoided a lot of costly repairs and saved them the bad reputation that they have as a result of this board failing over and over again.

I ordered the door glass from Part Select, which arrived quickly and in good condition. I loosened two sets of screws under the bottom glass holder frame, removed three screws at the top of the door to give more room. Slid the glass in place, re-installed and tightened the screws.The stove door looks great and works great. Great customer service too.

On the front panel I removed 3 screws on top and 4 screws under the bottom. Pulled the panel down to expose the computer board, removed 4 hex head screws and disconnected 2 plugs and 1 ribbon connecter. I reversed the process and used the awl to locate the screw holes and finshed in 23 minutes and saved $ 89.00.

One oven door hinge spring was broken. I ordered two hinges to complete the repair.
The repair could not have been easier. I removed the door from the oven an unscrewed the outer frame of the door from the inner door assembly. I unscrewed the old hinge assembly and replaced them with the two new hinges.
I set the door back on the oven and replaced the oven door retaining hardware.
After replacing the retaining hardware, I removed the temporary shipping pins that keep the spring assembly static. Very important: don’t remove these hinge pins until the door is on the oven an the oven retaining hardware is secured.

Remove oven door by removing chrome flat plate that holds the hinge in place (one screw at each hinge) and LIFT door off oven. There is a hole in the hinge that you can stick a small nail through to hold the hinge in the "partially open" position for easier removal and replacement of the door (I didn't know this until I received the new hinges, which have a removeable pin in the hole.) After door is off, remove three screws each, on the top and bottom of door, to remove the back half of door and expose the hinges. Remove one screw from bottom of door that holds bottom of hinge in place. Lift out hinge bottom and unhook top of hinge. Reverse process to reassemble. Remove small pins by opening oven door fully. The new hinges did solve the problem. You have to order two hinges for each door. They are NOT sold as pairs.

This repair is sooo easy! First I down loaded the service manual (free pdf) from Maytag as they make this appliance. They give all of the voltages for the J1 and J2 plugs. I checked those to be sure I was getting power to the board. I did not want to lay out close to $200 and then discover that the problem was elsewhere. All voltages on the J1 and J2 plugs were good. Next I ordered the clock and when it came in it may have taken me 5 minutes to replace the old board with the new one. Including time to go out to the garage and turn the power off and on. Also beware that the ribbon cable attaches to the clock with a compression type connector. The connector does not separate with the ribbon. Simply press on the two tabs on either side and then pull the ribbon from the connector. Reverse to reassemble.

pulled out the old door gasket, it had little diamond-shaped clips, pulled out really easily, replaced with the new gasket. All the clips fit into the proper holes, stuffed the new ends where the old ones were. Perfect. less than 10 minutes. Thanks....

Removed the door then the end caps and inner panel then the hinge system and replaced with the one piece new set of hinges and back together done in 30 to 45 minutes The new parts were a perfect replacement.

We panicked cause even simple repairs on these products cost and cost.....but we remained calm and ordered the exact part necessary from you. It arrived in just 3 days and once we had the part in hand it was easy to understand how to replace it. We disassembled the door with screwdrive and swapped the broken part with the new one. The one gotcha was that we were not aware of the shipping pin holding the spring and we struggled for a few trying to get the door closed all the way. Once we discovered the pin and removed it, it was fixed and we were PLEASED!

Thank you,
Louise and Rickl

My wife called a service company and was told that a tech would have to inspect the stove.
service charge 60.00 After inspection the parts would be orderd and a 200 fee for labor plus the parts would be charged at the completeion of the job. 2 weeks for part. I found you on the net orderd the glass. got it in 2 days and I completed the repair in 20 mins. Cost 89.00

I replaced the hinges as described in other posts and the problem was solved. When the oven was 2 years old it had the same problem but the hinges should not have fatigued at that point. The engineering problem someone mentioned is that the pin of the light switch is too short. I touched it with lipstick, closed the oven door, and opened the door to see exactly where the door touched the pin. I drilled a small hole in the door and screwed in a self tapping metal screw...problem solved for 8 years until the hinges fatigued. After replacing the hinges I tried removing the screw but the light stayed on so I put the screw back.

Pulled the breaker supplying power to the oven to OFF.
Removed four screws at the bottom of the control panel assembly above the top oven door (open the top oven door to access these screws). Lifted this control panel upwards to unhook it from a metal bracket. In my case, cabinet doors just above the control panel made this operation difficult.
Tilted the panel down. At this point, cables prevent complete removal of the control panel: The electronic clock assembly is attached with four screws inside this panel and connects to electrical equipment above the oven with two cables.
Unplugged these two cables. Their connectors must be unlatched by prying with a screw driver in the right place.
Once these cables were disconnected, the control panel could be removed from the oven area.
Disconnected the ribbon cable connecting the switches on the control panel to the clock assembly. That was the tricky part. Contrary to what I thought, this ribbon cable was not terminated by a connector but just snapped in the connector mounted on the clock assembly. After some fumbling, found that I had to depress both edges of the connector which allowed lifting up one part. Then the ribbon cable could be bent slightly to disengage two holes in the ribbon from nubs in the connector assembly and pull out the ribbon.
Removed old clock assembly by removing the four screws.
Installed the new assembly with the four screws.
Connected the two cables to the new clock assembly.
Reinstalled the control panel with the new clock assembly reconnecting the two cable connectors and by sliding the control panel down over the metal plate attached to the top of the oven.
Fastened the panel with the four screws.
Turned the circuit breaker back on.

The repair was very easy to perform, but the springs in the new hinge were not as strong as the old one. The door would not close all the way unless you held it closed. The hinge looked identical but spring had less tension.

I removed the single screw on each side of the oven by the hinge to remove the hinge cover plate and expose the hinge opening. I lifted off the glass oven door up and out and set it on my work bench. The door is heavy because its glass so make sure the doors on the way to the garage are open to your work bench area. I installed the cover plates back on so i would not loose the little covers and screws. I removed the screws all around the door and set them in a cup and lifted up the inner part of the door and the hinges are exposed. After removing the screws that hold on the hinges it lifted right out. I cleaned all the glass and set the new hinges in and locked them down with the screws and installed back the inner part of the door to the outer part and returned all the screws back. I then removed they screws on the hinge covers. I did not loose them with 4 kids running around and lifted the door back into the hinge openings and pushed down and it locked in. I then put a little pressure down on the door and removed the little locking pins. I pushed the door all the down and installed the hinge covers back on and it works beautiful. I think the new hinges are better than the set that came with the Jenn-Air wall oven. Thanks Parts Select. Also the new hinges came in 3 days as promised.